rideadeuce

SOC hasn’t affected the amps output. I believe the issue has more to do with the fact that it is non-isolated version and the grounding wires need to be re-arranged. I was given this diagram to try He said the tow vehicle battery and TT batteries must have a common ground. So I am going to try this setup after I install new high output alternator. @MAX Burner it’s why I was excited to see you had installed a non-isolated 30 amp version because of my questions about negative/ground wiring. Originally had everything going to the TT negative bus bar then on suggestion I moved the TV starter battery negative 4 awg straight to the Orion with only slight improvement. Have not seen anything above 16amp even when below 25% battery. How did you wire your negative/ground wires for the Orion?

I have already forgotten about using the generator traveling down the road and the usefulness of the power assist probably because I used a Yamaha propane generator that ran the PII without difficulty with a soft start. Since converting to lithium I have forgotten about it already. I was thinking from a lithium powered standpoint. It would be useful for an owner trying to use a smaller generator.

My first OEM plug under dinette is a GFCI.

SDG said they would document and take pics of the install. I will try to gather as much information as I can, as well. On family vacation, so I am kind of sneaking this into the mix. Ha! Mike

Me too. My install is coming up on Wednesday. The first Atmos 4.4 bought for an Oliver was returned before install because it was the color black and the owner decided to wait on the white version to become available. At least, this is what was told to me by Kevin at SDG. The manual shows it has an AUTO MODE. You should be able to pick AC or Heat or AUTO and set corresponding temps. The unit does not receive heat signals when in cool mode only. If you can only pick a single temperature in AUTO MODE... that would be a bummer and I will be unhappy as well. At that point, I would just use the separate HEAT ONLY and COOL ONLY modes. It also has a timer OFF FXN and dehumidifier mode. The heat pump is very nice thing to have IMO and can easily be turned off. Since the unit is quiet, I actually like the idea of the fan running to circulate the air until I turn the unit off or set the timer to turn off. The APP is the only thing I can't find much information on but ratings are good. For sure, I will let y'all know how the ride home from MI to TN goes!

The MultiPlus-II combines the functions of the MultiPlus and the MultiGrid. It has all the features of the MultiPlus, plus an external current transformer option to implement PowerControl and PowerAssist and to optimize self-consumption with external current sensing (max. 32A). - Victron The MultiPlus-II is a newer model; it is also a single inverter/charger unit, but it has some improvements over the original MultiPlus. It has a more powerful microprocessor, which allows it to provide more accurate and precise control over the charging process. - Victron MP-II form factor is longer and slimmer. So, depending on install may be easier to mount. Idle power draw is less for the MP2 11w vs 25w for the original. Having installed it, in retrospect, I might look at using Victron Lynx power distribution instead of DIY bus bars. A lot to think about. Best, Mike

I would install the SoftStart. It will make everything run smoother and more efficiently, even if MP2 can run AC without it. "From the Dometic Penguin II label. Compressor surge rating of 52a, higher than the Atmos, which is 48a. The Dometic 52a translates to 6240w and 480a at 13vdc. A Xantrex Freedom XC Pro 3000w Inverter has a surge rating of 6000w. The MP2 has a surge rating of 5500 watts. So, no RV air conditioner above 13k BTU should be run from Inverters and Lithium batteries without a soft start added. The Truma Aventa has an even higher surge rate of 58a." From Sprinter van forum that is very informative on this topic. Even if you have a 11k BTU of lower surge rating, it still makes sense to install SoftStart. The people installing the Atmos for me recommended it as well. Power assist as I understand it and used so far is helpful when connected to shore power not boon docking or traveling. Best, Mike

When I took down the Xantrex, I took down the input leg and then cut short the other run to connect to the output straight from the 15 amp breaker (farthest right) that powers the first GFCI plug (right side of dinette) that powers all the others plus the microwave I think. Then MPII Line IN from the PD ATS, then the Line OUT 1 from the MPII to the Main input at breaker box. Hope that helps. I am terrible and trying to draw diagrams on-line. Wish it was more clear. Mike I am on vacation, so doing this by memory but I believe this is correct.

@Ronbrink Emailed Tony @Mechman.com and ended up ordering the Elite series alternator for the Tundra. Thanks for reminding me. Hand-made in Knoxville, TN Mike

No, they are their miniature twins… Welsh Terriers 20-22 lbs. I still have not worked out the kinks on my DC/DC charger setup, averaging 11-15 amps on the road. So nowhere near the potential of the 50amp charger. Going to try a couple of things when we get home from our trip and the Atmos is installed. Cheers, Mike

Sitting outside at Taughannock Falls, NY in a primitive campsite with 25% battery life left (920aH bank). I have been running the AC off and ON for 2 days. First time I have had to put to use all of my battery backups (GZ4K, etc). And yes most of the AC run time has been for the 2 knuckleheads we enjoy so much. Mimi is expecting again! And, I agree, It just depends how much boon-docking you plan on doing. I wish I had 2000AH! Best, Mike Side note: Starlink is working great!

Read lots of good information and experience above. I have never used this but I have thought about it many times with a plugged Zerk. https://locknlube.com/products/grease-buster?variant=32921003327572 This grease gun with high volume vs high pressure mode works well too https://locknlube.com/collections/grease-guns/products/professional-series-dual-mode-pistol-grip-grease-gun?variant=40111323349076 Best, Mike

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You can find some that have a mounting plate => [Upgraded Version] 12V USB Outlet Qidoe 78W 3 Port USB C 12V Outlet Dual PD 30W & 18W USB A Port with Voltmeter Lengthened Aluminum Body Switch Waterproof USB Car Charger Socket for Car Boat Marine RV https://a.co/d/07mCzHx6 The most I have seen using the ones I installed to charge an iPad is 4.5 amp or around 52 watts. I really just wanted USB-C connections since everything has switched over to that and to be able to fast charge my phone, iPad, etc. Of course the MacBook can charge easily from 50w as well. But I am not an electrician and routinely do things that are above my experience level so I will be the first to say don’t do what I do without doing your own homework.

@jd1923 Yes, I made a custom aluminum mount that turned out awesome and the MPII sits very securely where the Xantrex was originally. Check out my original install post. It is worth pursuing, the Victron eco-system system is pretty sophisticated comparatively. The power hungry 1800 watts of Penguin AC plus 1800 watts of the microwave doesn’t shut down using the MPII but it does show overload for a few seconds. One of the things I am looking forward to not happening with the more efficient Atmos. Best, Mike