mossemi

Medeco locks are part of the ASSA ABLOY Group. I have a house full of Medeco door locks and I am very satisfied with their products. The communications industry has used the Medeco brand of locks at remote and secure facilities for years. The locks and keys are controlled through the Medeco dealer network, so you have to buy from them. Check the dealer tab at this site for locations and additional information.

Prior to buying #193, it was parked at a commercial RV storage facility under roof. I brought it home to mid Florida in January. It is stored in my driveway exposed to the weather. With the tree cover it may receive 40 to 50% sun light and the tree cover on the battery box side is 90%. The Hydrolink hose has been stored inside the trailer 100% of the time. And it hasn’t gotten hot in Florida yet. I’ll be in Howenwald after the rally and will discuss it with Jason. I should reach out Trojan as well. I just wanted to ask the forum if anyone else had seen this problem.

My LE2 was picked by the original owner in June of 2017. While doing a little pre-rally maintenance I discovered that the squeeze bulb on my Hydrolick is dry rotted. Although it is still working, it won't last much longer. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

On hull 193, the shower head holder is bolted to the closet wall with nylon lock nuts in the closet. If you remove 1 of those, you could determine the bolt length. The bolt is flush to the nut so I believe it was trimmed in place. I have also thought about “well nuts” for locations were access to the back side in not accessible although I haven’t tried it yet.

That is an excellent execution of a great idea. Thank you for the thorough instructions.

I’m surprised you even had to discuss it Harley. I would have thought he was all in from the beginning?.

Did you make reservations at the Guntersville State Park campground and register on the Oliver website? The campground makes the site assignment or you choose a site from whatever is available when you make your reservations.

Funny you should ask? I sent an email to Lippert Industries yesterday asking about door window replacement options. I haven't received a response yet but I'll pass it along when I do.

You may want to try an app called LTE Discovery. It’s available in the Android Playstore. It will provide a numerical dBm signal strength reading that is more accurate than the displayed “bars” at the top of your home screen display. Not sure if there is a version for Apple. An add-on to DavidS’s comment about airplane mode. When you turn on airplane mode you are turning off all radios in the device. That includes cellular, GSM, LTE, WiFi and GPS. When you turn it back off all radios power back up and re-scan for available services. Most over the counter devices settle on the fastest available network your provider offers at your present location. A quick look at the specs for both of the WE products you mentioned indicate that the amount of gain or amplification is the same for both. I do not have cellular amplifier so I’m not sure how the are installed in the Ollie’s or if the are all installed the same way. I would look at the published installation guidelines for your product and see if the is any suggestions for vertical and or horizontal antenna separation. Those guidelines would apply to the distance between the outside and inside antennas. This has always been a concern for amplified RF signals. Cobra also has real world experience in this field and may offer further input.

I just remembered seeing a 2 pack of electrical outlets with 2 USB ports at Costco. They are made by Feit and each port is 3.4 amps. I think the were $20. I know that doesn’t help your desire for street side USB ports, but you could replace the attic outlet and pickup 2 fast ports without much trouble. I have replaced about 20 incandescent can lights in my house with Feit led lights and I have been very happy with the Feit brand.

Very nice installation and write up. And it looks great to boot.

The spare tire all thread is 5/8"x11 thread. I have thought about drilling a hole through the all thread and using a small padlock. Might keep the opportunistic thieves at bay. But Bill brings up a good point, I rarely pass up an opportunity to have my hand slapped.?

How about a pvc pipe with a tee before the tank fill inlet. Point the leg of the tee up and make it long enough to hold the needed amount chlorine. Add a threaded cap. Also keep in mind that chlorine comes in different concentrations with household chlorine being about 5% and typical pool chlorine being 8 to 10 %. You can usually smell the chlorinated water before you can taste it.

John - check this site. They have the Blue Sea at a better price. They have quite a selection.

Thanks again John. Your explanation and pictures should make this a straight forward project for anyone interested.

Protect All works great inside and out and it works on everything.

This seems be a old problem with a variety of solutions. Search for “porch light” from the forums page and you will find several posts on this subject. Dave Phelps post “Porch Light reseal and silicone removal” is a very thorough how to guide on correcting this issue. I also had this problem as well as a water leak at the dinette window. The leak was my motivation to tackle the problem. I have Hull #193 and my lights are different than Dave’s, but the solution is the same. I removed the light fixture above the dinette window and found the fixture is made by an American company named ITC. I thought that’s cool, I’ll just send them an email requesting help with this issue. I think that was in January and I am still waiting for a reply. Not being Mr. Patience’s, the next day I moved on using some of Dave’s procedure. I did not have to remove any silicone because none is used with the ITC fixtures. I removed the gasket and used butyl tape between the light fixture and the hull instead. I then used Starbrite marine silicone to seal the screw holes and the perimeter of the fixture. After several rains, there hasn’t been any streaks or leaks and I have removed the gaskets from the remaining fixtures and now I can concentrate on cleaning up bird poop? Mike

John, I have hull #193 which was picked up by the original owner on 06/14/17. My tongue frame member is 3x5” external and 1.75x3.75” internal. I wonder when they went to a 2x7” frame member as my trailer was ordered or started before yours. Doesn’t really matter though as you could still mount your coupler bar internally. I would think either Bulldog or Treg could engineer an internal bar out of steel to the additional length you desire. If not a local welder should be up to the task. Good luck, I know you’ll find a solution. Mike

I agree that the existing light is inadequate, so I picked up a led battery powered light at Ikea. It is a about 4” in diameter and is motion activated. I have it laying on the floor in the first corner and it helps a great deal. I may mount it on the wall in the future. I believe I have seen a similar light in a 2 or 3 pack at Home Depot.

Once again, your contributions are above and beyond my expectations. The improvements to your Ollie are very well thought out and the detail you share with the forum is appreciated. Looking forward to your road report.

#309 looks comfortable in the Florida sunshine???. Enjoy your new Ollie.

According to the Ollie schematic, the rear stabilizers switch’s are red wire hot and yellow wire ground. The front stabilizer is black wire hot and frame ground. That being the case, the exposed black wire with the yellow fuse holder should be 12v hot. They are all 10 gauge. I think any of the switch’s would be a good connection point for a solder joint although I haven’t taken them apart yet to look.

We signed up online for Sunday at 10:00 AM as we have a Microair Easystart appointment on Saturday. According to the website, $99.00 includes level 1 and 2.

And a Happy St. Paddy’s to you all as well???. Corned Beef and Cabbage are on the menu at our house today.

Thank you sir! I couldn’t tell what it was after you had field stripped it.