hobo

Not that it helps much, but I have been told the HeadlightRevolution LED headlight assemblies are much better than the Ford LED lights. So for less $, the HR lights are better than the factory upgraded lights. You still have to deal with the labor part of the equation though. The installation is not rocket science, just a few hours of disassembly and reassembly. There are very goo video on how to do this. One of the best is on the HR website.

Yeah, I agree. Just to change the headlight bulbs, you have to remove the grill, upper shroud and other stuff. And that is for a single bulb! I figure unless I want to live with the pathetic lights that are the truck, I might as well bite-the-bullet and replace the entire assembly since I'm already do labor. The LED headlights are about an $1100 option when you purchase the trucks new which I thought was outrageous. Not such a bad deal after looking what it takes to do an upgrade later.

I agree with the Headlight Revolution suggestion. I have done considerable research relative to upgrading (legally) the headlights on my 2018 F250 and found the HR replacement assemblies to be the best deal out there. It'll cost about $1K to replace both headlights when I do it, but it's one-and-done! It's a PITA to replace bulbs in these trucks so you might as well replace the whole assembly vice going to bulb replacement only to find out at annual inspection time, they're illegal.

I have the 6000 lb model. Can't speak to the smaller model. Sorry

We carry two of these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwb-620471?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4LnMqZqN_AIVGPjICh0OsQgDEAQYAiABEgIzYfD_BwE Being a jack stand, it's much more stable than a plain jack. I can easily lift one side to the trailer with these to do any repair or maintenance work necessary; and when camped, I use them on the front corners of the frame to mitigate the wobble when walking around inside the trailer using just slight pressure against the frame. I wouldn't leave home without them. At the rally last year, they were used by another owner while doing a spring repair.

I agree with topgun2; it's so easy to winterize, why go through the steps suggested above but still worry that you didn't do it right? Just spend the 45 minutes and a couple gals of anti-freeze and sleep comfortably not worrying. I appreciate that the odds are you'll be fine, but why take a chance?

I carry two hydraulic jack stands with me. They serve two purposes; 1) to jack the trailer for wheel service and : 2) to place under the front corners of my trailer when camping to eliminate wobble or rocking when walking inside the trailer. Have found them to be extremely useful. Wouldn't leave home without them. Here's a link: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwb-620471?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIitDm9vrh-gIVwuDICh0wdAmXEAQYAiABEgI0F_D_BwE

My guess is that if Oliver offers it as an option, the folks at Tochta already have the patterns for the Oliver trailers. I'd check with them.

I agree with John Davies. I use the LEVEL MASTER level too. I however attached it to the front of my basket instead of the trailer body. With it mounted on the front of the basket, I can actually see it in my truck's backup up camera making side-to-side leveling a one-person operation when backing up onto the Anderson leveler if necessary. I do normally have my wife with me so she can chalk the Andersons when I "suggest" she do so. (Learned early on that you don't TELL your wife to do anything unless you want cold beans for dinner that night.) I sealed my leveler as did John per his suggestion . Never had a problem. Only time I ever used a 4 foot level was when I originally leveled the trailer when mounting the Camco leveler on my basket.

Ralph, Do you already have the Truma hot water heater? If so, have they explained how they are going to integrate the controls with the existing hot water heater and the thermostat for the propane furnace? Just curious.

Earthquakes, fires, mud slides....though😵 We all have our local issues.

Our basement (hull 414, last 2018 model produced) holds two small and one large milk crate. The two smalls go on the right side where it's deepest, and the large crate is on the left side of the compartment. There is also some additional space on the right ahead of the two smaller crates for other "stuff". We too put all of our landing gear (chocks, levelers, blocks, etc) in the front basket when we don't bring the 3500W generator with us. When we carry the generator, we put the landing gear baskets in the very rear of the pickup bed so it's right there when we drop the tailgate.

Would love to see some pics of the vents installed. Also, sounds as though there are enough variables in the trailer windows that mass production of these vents is not a viable option. Seems to be trailer specific and perhaps even window specific for proper fitment. Am I correct on this point?

Will do.

I advised dewdev that I didn't need the parts he was offering up. Nice offer though.

I am crafting a bracket to use the Lagun table assembly on my rear bumper so I can attach a table back there while grilling. If no one else needs this bracket, I would love to have it. 2 Hobos hull 414.

Glad this worked out for you. John and Zarcor are first class. Hobo

Thanks. I had heard they decided to continue production but was hoping they had an idea of when the newer version would be complete. I was advised (I think by Phil) some time ago, the new version will be wider and taller to match the interior width and height of of LE II.

We own an Elite II (hull 414) but a neighbor of ours might be interested in the smaller Elite, single axle. I know there is a re-design in the works for the Elite but wanted to know if anyone has any semi-official words from the factory as to when the newer version is intended to be made available? I've seen threads (somewhere) where there were discussions on this but I can't seem to find them. I do note that the Elite is still listed on the Oliver website even though they announced a few months back that the were ceasing production of the current version at one point. Thanks, 2 Hobos

Had an uncle from Maryland who was used to the "good life" who towed a HUGE Holiday Rambler trailer with his favorite automobile, a Chrysler New Yorker in the early 70s. The Chrysler had been modified to beef up the suspension and cooling system. This trailer was so large that when he and my sister were traveling through Missoula, Montana, the trailer knocked down the only traffic light in Missoula at the time. Oh the stories I could tell about Uncle Albert.....

Steve Cobb can do anything in fiberglass and it will look like it was factory made.

I remember that review on TFL truck and that was why in my grey matter, when I saw this question come up (again) I immediately gave a thumbs down. Regardless of what the specs say it CAN tow, it's just too little vehicle (mass) to be pulling and stopping an Elite II (IMHO) safely. It would be running on the edge of safe even in ideal conditions.

I did the same. I went to the Jeep Gladiator and looked up the specs which showed a towing weight capacity of 4000 lbs. The listing provided didn't show any version having a rating of over 4000 lbs. If the numbers are in error, then my assessment was made with inaccurate data.

Even if you can get it moving, you are in serious trouble when you try to stop a trailer the clearly outweighs your tow vehicle. I'm sure people do it all the time, but when you get into an accident, irrespective of whose fault it is, any decent lawyer is going to chew you up in court based on the tow ratings alone. I'm with CRM, I wouldn't even attempt it.

I installed the exact set last week in hull 414. I will provide one caution: It is possible to "over compress" the inner and outer frames when seating the male and female serrated tabs when re-assembling. If you do that, you end up forcing the inner frame to push us against the glass on the inside that will warp it slightly. If that happens, the tightly fitted shade will not fit properly. (You can guess how I know this). Only compress the frames to the point where the edges just "touch the glass. If however, you end up "gorilla-izing" the job and go too far, simply use the shims previously used to separate the frames to release tension on the affected portion. Easy-Peasy. Just a lesson learned the hard way. HOBO