Geronimo John

Amen.

Let's coordinate efforts for sourcing replacement springs. To facilitate, here is a compilation of specification elements presented. This way we can have apple to apple comparisons GJ · Four each replacement spring sets for tandem axle Oliver Trailer. Each with new U-Bolts · Made in USA with USA sourced 5160 spring steel · Brass eye bushings · Wet Bolt Bushing ID = 9/16" · 2,000 lb rating · 5 leaves · Second leaf extends underneath eye on each end (protecting common break area) · Steel, bolted spring keepers (one each end) vs a single, sheet metal band · Spring center bolt setup for Under Slung axle. · Width = 1.75" · Drop = 3” · Length (eye-to-eye) = 25.25” Warranty Info:

I have sent in a ticket to OTT about the numbers of failures of the 4 leaf Dexter spring sets. So far we have documented the following: ScubaRX Long Duration ≥ 10 these occurred in the past SNY SD UP July 2023 2 Mountain Man 198 Q1 2024 2 Mountain Oliver 2023 2 Stevon Feb 2024 1 For those listed, please PM me with any changes or additional info so I may update. If you have had an OTT Dexter 4 leaf spring failure, please send me a PM with info. I'll update this list as needed. GJ

For the DYIers here are key words for screening your rigs spring status. Thanks Steve! GJ

John: Michelin says inflate to their load table. They also say use a minimum of 35 PSI for our weight. Minimum because we are well under their chart range. So in reality they are saying go with a much lower psi than any of us are using. I started out at 80 from the factory. My first stop was to a gas station where reduced the pressure to 60 psi. Then several years later took it to 55, then to 50. Now with repeated experience and knowledge, I will be at 42 PSI for HY and 30 or less (Depending on road condition/hazards) for off road use. My previous thoughts were highway efficiency (I.E. MPG) was all important. With years of chasing cushions around the cabin, and now this thread topic: I have realized that maybe I saved $20 in fuel each season, but at what cost to my Ollie. Springs and shocks have a purpose. Over inflation hinders their effectiveness and I am guilty of "Ollie Abuse" as a result. My recommendation is to save yourself the 6 year learning curve, and reduce the pounding for your OE2 by going with a somewhat consensus of 40 to 42 PSI for your OE2. +++++++++ All: To cut this off at the pass: Yea, I know that I'm over the Michelin recommendation of 35 psi. Maybe I'm admitting to being somewhat hard headed. But I can assure you that my learning curve continues. Who knows, maybe next year I'll be saying time to move down to 38 PSI. The Japanese call this Kaizen or contineous improvement. Yep, I am for sure a work in progress. But my wife says that my progress is moving at a glacial pace.

No, but the list of considerations posted for two OE2 flats will sure apply to a set of broken springs as well. Plan ahead and execute the plan.....At least until the first round hits. GJ

Ok, maybe vastly is an overreach. 😞 GJ

NEW OPTION TO RELO OE2 THERMISTOR: I ran to ground with OTT that the Dometic drain line is accessible in the lower bunk area (Street side, Aft). We would need to cut into the Rejex insulation. So a possible route is to go thru the styrofoam to the drain line, then in the drain line run the LONG thermistor wire back towards the rear street-side. Target should be in line with the exposed drain tube aft of the left rear tire. By cutting the drain line in the under bunk area, we could run the thermistor over to the location near the old thermostat. Last unknown is where to penetrate the styrofoam cover up top to find a specific routing of a new longer thermistor to be routed without soldering. Ideally one that could be duplicated by others which would not require removal of this cover. With this in mind, we could leave the John D. mechanical furnace replacement thermostat in play with the two old Dometic small diameter wires spliced together to do so.

Tummy: I, and several others would surely appreciate some pictures of your WAGO solution to the continuous fan run. It appears to be vastly simpler than what we have been pouring over. Thanks Geronimo John

Ralph: So that the 5200# and 3500# owners are on the same page, can you confirm that both axles use the SAME spec replacement spring? Thanks GJ

Thank you for doing the right thing! I encourage all owners that have had a spring failure to do the same. Even if it was reported years ago. With a dozen or so first hand reports. OTT would have the ammo they need to "dance" with Dexter. OWNERS: If you have had a spring failure, please follow Mountainman's lead. and report it. Even if it was yeas ago. If you know an owner who has had such a failure, please reach out to them and encourage them to also report the incident. If they can not do a first hand report, please consider submitting one on their behalf with full disclosure. Thanks GJ

Not for us. We use the back gas port many days a week when camping. For safety reasons, I don't prefer to use the front one so close to the stored propane tanks. But then some of my friends love to use it when we have two BBQ's roaring at both ends of our OE2. I agree that the placement of the rear one is a PITA to use. Your rear gas connection sounds like it is defective. The valve and the connections on ours are belt and suspenders. Either one of them is supposed to not allow gas to flow. But if you have a hose connected to it, then one of the two safety aspects is removed from the safety equation. One solution that may reduce the potential for sewer hoses opening the valve would be to turn your valve so that the handle is towards the curb side (vs the top or street side. This may require a stand off to do this. You concern about the naked gas line and flying debris has validity. There are some very well engineered line armor that could easily be placed around the gas line if you feel strongly about it. I also appreciate your suggestion about not traveling with the gas tank valves open. That's great "Safety Thinking". I'll add it to my departure/arrival check lists. GJ

I agree. But I just don't generally like sole source procurements. For most of us, there is plenty of time to run down some quotes from other USA Spring Manufacturers, who use the same steel, and have a great reputation as well. Also, we have not heard a peep out of OTT about this topic. Nor has Dexter been brought into the discussion either. So I caution rushing into such purchases too early. Now if you have a trip on the near horizon, then by all means buy now. I certainly would based on what we think we know now. GJ

First Question: GJ response: Remains to be seen. We are assured that the new springs will fit and do their job much better than the OEM 4 leaf ones. But one hitch in the game plan has already surfaced, and we don't know yet that they will be a Direct Replacement until they are installed and a few miles gets put upon them. Best wait just a tad and see how this plays out. But the odds are for sure with a successful deployment of the new product. With much greater safety margins as well I believe. Second Question: GJ Response: No. Good quality springs that are not abused or overloaded have a VERY long life span. With the new 5 leaf springs it would not be necessary to have a spare. If you were thinking of keeping your old springs, you would need to buy a 4 leaf spring as a spare. No point in spending money on what appears to be a bad product for our use. GJ

thank you for your post. I will follow the lead and reduce my 50 to 42 PSI. Mahalo and Aloha, GJ

Yes, lots and lots of good info at your finger tips. Try searching as below. GJ .

Shifting focus on the topic: When the spring fails, does the tire or broken spring get into the wheel well fiberglass? Would the answer to the above be different if we were on a fire road with big bumps up/down? GJ

Good catch. A good example of why letting the first install with a few miles take place before opening up the flood gates. I would prefer to use a bench vice and two strong C-clamps. Belt and suspenders with one of them (The bench Vice) for sure not going anywhere.... just in case. GJ

One needs to ask, why would a spring set rated for 2,000 pounds fail with just a 1,350 pound load? In light of the heat treatment photo, this clearly is a defective product and we have almost a dozen instances where the Dexter provided axles have failed. This is a life safety issue that OTT would be in the best position to pursue with their supplier. Not to mention, as I suggested above, OTT should be warning their customers of this known issue. Keep in mind that not all OTT owners read every thread. We all would feel terrible if one of our beloved trailers went off a cliff and took out a family due to this defect. MODERATORS: I am asking that you: Make OTT aware of this issue and the frequency for which it appears to have occurred. Strongly suggest that they provide all owners with a Safety Bulletin. And to specially ask owners that have had failed springs to notify them for documentation and further actions with their supplier. Once they have the facts from owners with defective axles, to formally advise Dexter of this issue. GJ

Would seem that since the water proofing (caulk) is on the inside, that using a below the water line marine product would be in order. Maybe? GJ

So, if we have a 6,000 pound trailer, with four tires and a 10% tongue weight, each of our tires will be supporting 1,350 pounds. The chart shows a minimum recommended load of 1585 pounds. So basically it appears that we are not on the chart.... GJ

Yes, I came to that same conclusion earlier as well. Combine that with being overloaded would make the failures far more commonplace. GJ

LOL. Mine was so long, I had to make two lists: 2024 Do List Future Years Do List GJ

This is starting to sound like another Dexter defect that they will never fess up to..... just like the EZ-Flex Center Bolt backing out was. It warrants at least a OTT Safety Bulletin and possibly a NTSB complaint.

Ditto for our hull. GJ