Geronimo John

Brilliant!

Really important to know our actual height's, especially with any mods. As far as relying on posted info without not checking.....I do not have a Sat Receiver. So per the 2018 brocuhure, the height of my Ollie should be 8' 6". Tilt: Our Ollie is well over 8' 6" high. Also remembering that posted bridge heights are not always updatedd after paving overlays. Personally I use anything posted as under 10 feet posted as a RED FLAG warning. Less than that I stop and test fit so to speak. As you point out, we all really need KNOW what our rig's height really is. GJ

If it is magnetic, it's not bronze or brass. It has Iron. Will work, but it's not the best... IMO. GJ

Following is rabbit hole conjecture on my part for your amusement: The G-forces on loads behind the center point of the twin axles are lineally amplified by the lever arm distance. It therefore is good design to have more structural supports behind the axles than in front of them as reported. As the EZ Flex raises and lowers the axles based upon up/down road bumps/holes/trenches, it could also be adding additional loads to the areas in front and behind the axle center points. If those are in-phase with the road induced G-forces, the structural member loadings would be increased beyond that mentioned above.

IF your Axle Decal looks like this one, You may want to read the rest of the below. From what I can figure out, Red Neck Trailers was “Integrated” into Nuera Trans which was “Hoovered Up” into Dexter. The original Red Neck Trailers is still in business as is Nuera Trans. All flying the Dexter flag. As clearly printed on a Dexter Label, they were made by NUERA TRANS likely in Cookeville Tn. So don’t waste your time calling Dexter for a "Build Sheet". The correct terminology is to request the Configuration Info associated with 6339056. The Dexter Customer Service could not pull up this info. So instead, call this knowledgeable contact that has been in her job with all three name changes:: Christy Gillentine | CSR Dexter Distribution Group christy.gillentine@dextergroup.com direct tel:: (931) 739-4034 An alternate would be Denise Ameling via E-mail: <denise.ameling@dextergroup.com> Please keep in mind that these contacts are ONLY for NURA TRANS labels axels. If your label is not like the one above, the regular Dexter Customer Service is by far the way to get your axle info. The Nuera Trans Axles (I.E. Really Red Neck Trailer axles that were sold under the Nuera name) were purchased without springs. The springs were sent to them for assembly. They are the Chinese made PR4B springs. Christi stated that if the springs are flattening out, then they were undersized for the application. After they flatten out, then they generally fail as was originally reported on our thread. She stated that the PR4 springs with their thicker steel (2,400 pound rated) would be a better choice. Here is the CONFIG INFO for this Config Number for my rear axle on Hull 342. If you have the same number on yours, here it is: Note it states “No Springs, Calculate Leaf Spring Capacity”. GJ

The Dexter Team was helpful, but not successful in finding my Build Sheet. So a week later, I am still on the hunt. Seems that as companies get bought up by the Dexter Hoover, records sometimes get "misplaced". I now have a former employee of a former company of a former company working the question. More to follow likely early next week. GJ

For fun: To be fair, I suggest adding the word in Green above. Our 2018 Hull 342 Refer works quite well (with the added dual fan installation). Likely will continue to do so...... all the way until the day it catches on fire. For Real: As soon as it starts to go south, eliminate the fire hazard as suggested by John D. years ago. GJ

The Houghton group have the same feelings about the same situation as yours. The installation of a relay to shut down the fan with the compressor has resulted in a vast improvement. I have to wonder if the Aussie Engineer at Houghton moonlights for the Aventa folks. If so that would explain the twin disasters. The other issue the Houghton's have is that it does not have a remoted T-stat. We have a solution successfully implemented with the SOB's, but routing is still being worked in our OE2's for the thermistor to bring the Houghton up to world class. GJ PS: Several of us OTT owners will be working the thermistor solution over the summer.

Short answer often not. Think of earthquake proof buildings and those that are not. The ones that flex and bend under the stress survive. The solid ones crumble. An efficient solution is to have more cross members properly attached to the main frame members. Load distribution is the idea. Less load, less overload, less failures. The supported tanks would like it much better as well. GJ

Good news Patriot. Just noticed the yellow "thing" on your spring shackle. What is it? thanks. GJ

Liked your post. I'm also a Meguiar's guy. Our Ollie sees 3 to 4 months of summer hot sun a year. Other months are in a dark barn covered. Some questions: I wax Ollie once a year. Is that adequate? I have a Rupes LHR15ES Random Action Buffer. Have not used it on Ollie. Do you use yours routinely on our OE2's? Will be using the 67 one step as you in a season or two. What buffing pads do your recommend using for the 67 one step to "Buff" it out with your polisher. Thanks GJ

We should be getting up the enough with ALCAN for a volume discount!

As one of the more senior aged trailers (2015 OE2 Hull #70), a key piece of info of interest is "Has the frame design changed over the years" and if so, "How and When"? GJ

John: Your keeping the shades a bit above the track is a good idea for winter storage as well. The shades don't provide much insulation so why keep them in a potential wet zone? Good idea... Thanks GJ

I recommend you check your vent stack in the closet and below the decks. You should not be selling smelling anything. GJ

Hull #364 - The Roadrunner 2023 F350 CCLB SRW 6.7L Not knowing your year, but guessing your Hull 364 is a 2018 as is ours. If that's the case, your should look like mine and it is the same as Rideandfly's pictures. We had under cooling and over heating concerns and added the double fan posted above. it has helped quite a bit in very warm or HOT conditions. GJ

Here's my DIY document for refer fan. GJ DYI - Titan Motorhome Fridg Fan.docx

GJ NOTE: Below costs were created with total disregard for either the cost of money or inflation: +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Several times I, and other owners have discussed running dehumidifiers as you successfully do. For a group of us though that can't monitor our trailers for months at a time, the issue becomes the condensate pan service. Your post rekindled this problem and sparked an idea that may work. I store Ollie covered in a dark barn. In the fall, as part of my winterization I run the A/C temp down to around 60 degrees F to dehumidify as best as possible. OPTION ONE - DAMP RID: To aid in humidity control, I use two of the large Damp Rid buckets and deploy them inside Ollie before I protect her further with a trailer cover. Each summer I uncover her and the Damp Rid buckets have fully exhausted their abilities. So, I know that at some point they have no longer been able to keep the humidity quite low. That said, I have not had any problems so far. The Damp Rid costs $28. Three year Damp Rid cost = $84 OPTION TWO - PRO BREEZE: To use the Pro Breeze for extended unattended use, I would place it on the counter by the sink. Then place a funnel and drain tube under the existing condensate drain port . As the Pro Breeze worked it's magic, the condensate would drop into the funnel and down the drain tube. I would run the tube down the kitchen sink drain and past its P-Trap. Once past the P-Trap, the condensate would drain downhill to the gray water tank. By running the hose past the kitchen sink P-trap it would not render the P-trap antifreeze in the trap ineffective. I would keep the trailer nose a bit high and crack the gray water tank drain valve a bit open to ameliorate the Pro Breeze condensate freezing concerns. The hardware to install likely would include a freeze stat to prevent running of the unit when temperatures are below freezing. The costs of this would option are about: $28/year in power (Assumes 4380 hours run time, at 16 cents/kwh.) Three year power cost: $84. Hardware, about $30. Assuming it lasts three years, $70. Three year Pro Breeze cost = $184 Your thoughts? Any better ideas?

Smell just Much more likely is you are smelling one of the sources as mentioned above. But just to cover a very remote possible source not yet mentioned: Take a strong wiff of your over the door head bumper. Could have gotten wet and went south on you. Not likely, but worth a 4 second check. GJ

Ditto with our hull. I really prefer having the Inverter and Converter units physically isolated. Problem potential for a "double whammy" power outage is pretty much eliminated. Also, when our the combined 120V Load Center/Converter fails, I'll replace it with two separate components. This will reduce the potential of a Converter failure impacting the Load Center or the converse. Other energy redundancy options to consider: Dual fuel/power refrigerators (120V and 12V) unit with Danfos compressor. Heat Pump vs. AC for second heat source (Plus having a cheap ole 1500 watt plug in heater). Converter, Solar, Litho's, DC to DC , and Generator charging systems. A second 120V auto transfer switch for the A/C (Serves as an installed spare should the primary fail too). Twin Furion power ports. (A lower priority to the above.). Having an inexpensive 400 watt 12V to 120V converter with alligator clips on the 12V inputs. This one will ruffle some feathers: Not having totally necessary electronic systems for controlling of power/energy that may put you electrically wise out of business from all power sources with a single lightening strike on the RV park electric poles. Having at least 50 feet of 12 AWG ( plugged for 20 Amp draw) or 10 AWG power extension cords. With an assortment of electrical adaptors. A 15 amp multi plug strip. Saran wrap to weather proof the above two items should rain be expected. What other redundancy energy ideas can we think of? GJ

You and Joe did a nice job to create a secure yet light weight storage solution for your Honda. I really like the idea of open door, remove Honda gas cap, and fill through the top plate fueling port. Also the fan and electrical options that are included such as hard wiring a plug to the trailer panel for distribution, as well as having a single phase plug so that another trailer could plug into your single phase 30 amp plug and share some power. I am curious as to why it was mounted on 4X4"s/ It appears to encroach just a bit on the Bulldog, but not that much. The only option I can think of is to add a bolder catcher filter on the air intake side. With your set up, I bet you don't even know when the generator is running. Really nice set-up.

Both MaxBurner and I (And several others) use this bar from out negative Litho battery bank to a BlueSeas Master Switch, and then to the shunt. I copied the buss bar idea from another owner here on the forum. GJ

Spring Replacement Build Sheet: Somewhere up above here in the scores of pages of this thread is a suggestion to get your Dexter axle build sheet(s). I did so today. You will need to record the serial numbers of your axle(s). I took photo's. Then call Dexter at (574) 295-7888, Option 1. Ask them for a copy of your axle build sheet(s) and give them your e-mail address. That's it. Be sure to keep a copy of your build sheet(s) in your trailer so that down the road you are not wishing you had it. Great Customer Services from all four of the Dexter areas I have spoken to today. GJ

SPRING REPLACEMENT OPTION: Here is another option for our spring replacements via Dexter. With the help of a Moderator, we know that the axle springs on most of our OE2's is their PR4B springs. They are made in China and we can purchase replacements for $38.95. I worked my way up three layers at Dexter and their very helpful Technical Services Rep identified another Dexter option that will fit. It is their PR4 2400 # double eye spring PR4. This is a four leaf axle spring made of thicker and wider steel. The cost is $61.99, and it is also made in China. DEXTER WARRANTIES: Dexter manufactured springs come with a 5 year warranty. Their Chinese made springs have a 1 year warranty. THE QUESTION: That said, we now know how Chinese springs got onto our trailers. They are Dexter sold. In at least one perspective, that's good news I think. GJ

We could continue to speculate on this a long time. For me, I'm now hibernating in my rabbit hole on this topic until OTT completes their process. Now for anything about how to DIY replace our springs or helpful hints from those that have done so.... that's good topic to continue. So, I am thinking it would be a good idea for a Moderator to split off the "DIY Replacement of Springs Lessons Learned" topic from this thread.