Geronimo John

USAA

Exactly. For some on shore power or large generator, maybe, but wasteful. But for boon-dockers using small generators (2000 to 2200 Honda's for example), that solution likely just does not work out so well. Does anyone know if the fan is a multi speed motor or a speed control motor? If multi speed, say three speed (Hi, Medium, Low) then why not add a fan speed selector switch with the same number of speeds. Then power the fan speed selector switch input from the compressor power feed. Circulation fan would run only when t-stat is calling and the compressor relay is energized. Fan would run at the speed that was set on the selector switch. When the t-stat reaches it's set temperature, the unit control board will shut down both the compressor and fan. Humidity problem greatly reduced. Seems to me that this could be a simple mod. Any chance Houghton could comment on this? Your thoughts? GJ

PS be sure to check the voltage going to the trailer.... just to make sure you have all the cables connected properly. If there was even a nano second of oops spark, likely the breaker saw more than 300 amps and pop. Good news is that the breaker is fast enough that likely you did no damage. But if it tripped, do not reset until you figure out how a + got to a - to do so..... before resetting the breaker.

300 amp circuit breaker likely needs to be re-set. it's under the street side bed. GJ

Please Please provide your tow vehicle and trailer info in your signature block. Thank you, PS: Hope OTT, Bulldog, Anderson can figure this one out. GJ

My experience was on a construction site. Contractor had failed to follow OSHA requirements and one of his guys was skewered. OSHA fine was significant.

I think it is insufficient to pull Ollie. LOL PS: Great safety idea of tennis balls on your marker poles. PSS: Equally off-topic, we're having a rough winter here in Hawaii as well.

Moderators: Thank you for separating the two competing threads and creating Doug Grove's Furnace Issues thread. That done, in DGFI's thread we "appear" to have therein really two topics: How to fix Doug's furnace Modifications for Extreme Cold Weather Heating Performance I would like to "get into the weeds" on the extreme cold weather topic, but don't want to further confuse readers on how to fix Doug's issue... nor do I desire to start a new MfECWHP thread without all the great thoughts already presented therein. Should you agree that we have successfully trampled the first topic with the second topic, I respectfully suggest separating them accordingly. Should you not agree with my assessment, and that would be totally cool, then I will get into the weeds on the topic of extreme cold weather modifications in Doug's furnace fix thread. Totally your call. Please advise all. Mahalo, GJ

When I was 6, I saw my first Air Stream (AS). I asked Daddy, "Is that a space ship?". He replied with pride it's an American made Air Stream". I always wanted one and was going to buy a 26 footer in 2018. Until I saw a 26' AS coming out of central Texas with extreme hail damage. The owner said it would cost his insurance $48K to fix. I decided I needed something more durable. Hence our 2018 OE2. I can't even imagine what a $200K AS insurance policy will run a new owner. It was a sad day when AS went to paper thin Aluminum.

We love our 6" topper over the stock Ollie mattress. Got the 6" narrow twin and cut the 15" radius with a bread cutting knife. Saved a TON of $$$$. Very comfy for sure. GJ

Clark: I agree, but at this point with so many posts likely would take quite a bit of effort to untangle the birds nest.

I can not believe they put a Dometic hammer mill air conditioner on it. GJ

If you are an only cold weather camper: Yep great way to force more air where it is needed for freeze protection below floor and throne seat comfortability.. If you are never going to be a really cold weather camper, but do occasionally camp up high were having some furnace action is desirable, not such a great idea as it will run up your propane usage keeping the floor warm from below. HOWEVER, if you are or may be both, or just like covering all the bases, I suggest putting a damper on the 8 X 10. For extreme cold close the damper down and force air where you want it. (Just be aware of furnace output temperatures as choking down on airflow has it's own hazards). Moderate cold, leave it open to promote most efficient cabin heating and reduction of propane use. For those of us with older trailers with the "rumpled duct" interiors, changing out the duct to the bathroom to a smooth bore one and adding the small return air path makes a lot of sense. GJ

From the furnace perspective, the bathroom vent into the basement does not effectively change much. BUT, from the bathroom's perspective, if the door is closed and the fan and window are also closed, as they would be during very cold outside conditions, then effectively the bathroom long small diameter duct will not be able to move much air into the nearly closed box (bathroom). I suspect that the new air passage from the bathroom to the basement has more to do with getting more air into the bathroom, thereby making business there more enjoyable during real cold conditions. That said, it also gives some air a path down the street side basement which may also help keep our pipes from getting frosty. GJ

John and Bill: Ditto on end of season disassembly and battery removal. Doing so and keeping the batteries inside a warmer location I think is good for the sensors and batteries. I believe that their battery life is dependent upon miles used, time in service, and temperature stored when not in use. In our case, we are averaging with zero battery failures 2+ seasons averaging 6800 miles per season. Would be interesting to know what your average battery use parameters are.

It sure would be grand if Ford had a software upgrade for our "slightly used" F-150's to allow the onboard TPMS to be extended to our four OE2 tires.

When you run into that bad weather and have some time on your hands, it would really cool (SIC) for you to document your extreme cold problems and remedies. Frankly I bet OTT would be chomping at the bit to create a "Cold Winter Package" based upon your excellent research and development efforts. Well done!

Back to my M.E. background: Winterize well before you hit freezing conditions (as stated above) would likely save you some grief. For anything below 20 degrees, I would also have some thick Reflectix (R6 or R8) and figure out how to cover the windows and door on the inside. When not in use, storage under your bed mattress would be an idea. PS: The below is not thick Reflectix.

Hey from a Hawaii/Texas resident you can take this with a grain of salt. However as a Mechanical Engineer there is one salient thought I can provide: Suggest you VERIFY that the food grade antifreeze you use to winterize your OE2 is rated for at least -50 degrees F. Some are, some are not. Buyer beware. PS: Amazingly the Super Tech is rated for -50F. Surprised me.

Your method would sure leave less grease on my leg or pants! Hope it works well. Please do keep us updated.

Jim: What air bags did your use? Looking at doing the same on our TV.... for the same reasons. GJ

I fully concur with Bill, Mike and Jim. Mountains out West: Get the 3.5 EB or equivalent. Driving Canada to Alaska: 3.5 EB. Back East: Your call. Due to porposing, I replaced our 3 year old stock rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's. I had hoped that they would be enough to cut down on porposing. They did help. However, during our trans Canada (especially) and Alaska (somewhat) I many times wished I had also installed a set of air bags as my Brother had recommended.

I refer to our TV as "The Beast". It is a 2019 F-150 Super Crew, 3.5 EcoBoost, 5' bed, 4X4, FX-4, Max Tow Package. Before our Alaska trip, I replaced the rear shocks with Bilstein 5100's. They definitely improved the rear end performance. Felt much more "planted". Other than that the truck is stock. As indicated in the below picture, our Anderson Receiver is flipped up, and I am using the lowest bolt positions. With this set-up, the trailer rides just a bit too nose high for my preference. Here are our pertinent data points: UPDATED ANDERSON BALL HEIGHT RANGE: 23.5” to 25” Below from F-150 during the Summer 2021 Truck mostly loaded Ball Height: 24 ¾” Ollie hitched without Anderson: 22 ¼” The truck squat was 2 ½” Ollie hitched WITH Anderson Set 23 ½” Truck squat reduced to 1 ¼” AGRICULTURAL SCALE: Summer 2021 Fuel Full, Truck Fully Loaded, Ollie Tanks 50% (This is Highway Preferred Load) All entries are under their rated maximum capacity. The BEAST AXLES OLLIE AND THE BEAST Front 3,000 OE2 Axles 5,350 Actual GCW 12,000 Rear 3,550 Truck Axles 6,650 Max GCW 16,200 Truck 6,650 ACTUAL GCW 12,000 Under GCW 4,200 POUNDS UNDER With the older design Anderson, the height of the Bulldog release hitched with 3 to 4 threads showing was just below the tail gate rear view camera when I carefully lowered the tailgate. As the new Anderson design is higher, it now it is about 1/2" higher, and creates an interference fit between the Bulldog release handle and the tail gate camera assembly. This is a problem waiting to be rather expensive..... As a result of our 15,000 mile Alaska tour this past summer, i have to admit that my Brother was correct in that our rig would benefit from a set of air bags. My goal is not to increase tow capacities, but to reduce proposing, bottoming out on less than perfect loads, and provide some clearance between the Bulldog lever and the F-150 tailgate camera. (NOTE: Any airbags I have installed will each have it's own air fill point as suggested by JD.) Questions: A. Just looking at our current unloaded Anderson receiver unit, if I flip the receiver to the down position, and use the highest bolt positions, how much would that lower the ball height? My gut says too much, and I need to get the one that allows a more central bolt position. Just hoping not the case..... B. What MFG air bags do your recommend? Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated. GJ

I carry a Honda EU 2200. Used to use it quite a bit. Now with Lithiums, Victron DC to DC Charger, and a 200 Watt Solar Suit Case, much less so.

At $19.99 a gallon I'm sure glad that we don't have sensitive smell. I use three gallons of this one at $3.99 (Walmart). Never noticed any smell from it after a normal rinse out.