Geronimo John

Mike: Good catch. For sure Dielectric Grease. GJ

First my assumption is that we are using the former Dometic thermostat wires to control the gas heater and have done so using a new thermostat at the location of the old Domet stat. That said: Your assessment matches what I observed. That path is not worth the effort. HOWEVER: I believe that the thermistor wires end up at the control board. My suggestion is to disconnect or intercept them at the control board and then connect a new one (with a much longer lead) in its place and locate the new thermistor in a place that better represents the cabin temperature. GJ

Using a DeWalt Impact Driver would be my tool of choice. GJ

GSM Bear: The thermister wires pass from the control board and then down into the Return Air path "tube" (inside the 14 X 14 roof penetration). For a non-ducted system it can be seen from the cabin with removal of the inside air distribution panel. I suspect that splicing in a long section of wire (As presented by John Davies above) at the roof penetration level in the 14 x 14 penetration would leasily give you a path between your two hulls for mounting of the sensor inside the cabin. GJ

John D. Thank you for the above response. Great to know that there is a path forward. GJ

GSM: I edited my post above for clalrity. You were correct as I used the wrong word. Cutting and splicing Thermister Wires: It has been a really long time since I was playing with thermisters, so my foggy memory may need your update. My recollection is that the thermister changes resistance based upon temperature. The mother board of the unit is set up to interpert resistance and map it to a temperature setting and unit response. If we cut the wires to the thermister and extend them, that would change the overall resistance of the thermister and original wire resistance as seen by the mother board. Would that cause other issues? GJ

Instructions have the info. Basically the transfer switch comes with a super duty plug and that line plugs into the inverter. You disconnet the 20 amp wire at the breaker that serves the ac and replace it with a longer wire that goes back from the rear dinette seat to the back of the rear bunk. This line goes to the switch input labeled for the utility company supply. The other switch connection is used to reconnect the ac power supply. I mounted my second switch aft of the OEM one under the street side bunk. This required me to replace the super duty switch cord that was too short. Some owners elect to mount the switch on the wheel well to avoid this. Personally I like bolting the add on equipment through the fiber glass to a cutting board JB welded and bolted in place. I use small SS fender washers and bolts and it does not detract from the appearance under the bed overhang. GJ

We use the cube style boxes from kleenex expressions tissues for our grocery bags. They get stored in the upper cabinets at the back curved section of the roof line. I start the summer with three full ones and add used ones every shopping visit. GJ

I respect your opinion on this. If the fire is in the Battery Box, inside is logical. So long as every occupant of the trailer knows where it is. On the other hand some believe that if there is a fire situtation, get all occupants out NOW and away from the trailer. Then once the family and pets are safe, kill the power source at the batteries or some other outside accessible location. Looking for a master switch hidden under the beds or in a closet somewhere is not time efficient. However fire fighters will go to the battery box and either cut the 4/0 cable or use the red master switch. That likely will be their first action once finding the buring trailer. Regardless, your comment begs having clearly visable signage that "Emergency Battery Switch Here" would be advisable for all locations where the switch is located. Personally I show my guests our 350 amp rated Blue Seas master switch as part of our trailer tour. GJ

Looked at the dexter stock number and it has a "LF" in it. For our LE2 are eachof the 8 springs exactly alike or does the LF indicate a left front spring and that we need to order our a LR, RF and RR? Just want to know for my cheat sheet. GJ

I too have experienced the same issue, and tried the toothpick/glue and larger screws as well. My approach that worked is to use small screws and washers with nylock nuts. Fixed the screw issue. Will now try the strap process for keeping them closed. Good inputs, Thanks. GJ

A simple test of the brakes is to test them at a very slow speed on gravel with a trusted driver and a second observer. While traveling at a slow walk speed, you could pull the emergency brake cable with you and a friend watching the impact on the left and right tire sets. All four tires should lock up instantly. If one or more do not, then you know where your problem resides. If all four of them lock up, then do an amp draw test. It should read about 3 amps per wheel. If not near this you have another hint. Finally, using an amp meter, have a friend apply the tv brakes and slide the brake controller boost lever slowly up and down the range. If no change then you have another hint. GJ

Sugggest getting three solid concrete blocks and burying them in the floor of the barn so that about an inch extends above the dirt. Place them where you want the jacks to be when stored. This gives you the "perfect" target year after year and keeps mud from rusting out your jack plates. Also, I suggest covering your OTT with a less expensive cover. Mostly to help defend against mud dobbers and hornet nests. Finally install a screen over your heater exhaust. GJ

There is a post on our site from another owner that installed one with pictures. Likely was John D., but I may be foggy on that. GJ

Yes. Basicallly my goal is to be able to use our 300 AH of Battleborns and our 3,000 watt inverter to power up the Houghton A/C. Consensuss approach is to install a second power transfer switch next to the OEM. This does require changing out the 20 amp wire that feeds from the existing breaker to the second power transfer switch. Took about 6 hours to complete the job. GJ

EDITS IN GREEN: Ok, now that I have my Houghton 3400 heat pump installed and have run it in 106 degrees full sun on our OE2, I can respond with a professional M.E. opinion: The 13.5 KBTU Houghton 3400 is NOT oversized for hot running conditions. I would not recommend a 11,000 BTU unit for an OE2 if you go to hot places, Secondly, again in my opinion the humidity problem is certainly caused by re-evaporation of humidity on the coils after the compressor is shut down. Frankly IMHO, this is a bad design element of Houghton units for USA use where humidity issurs are common. But for the dry Aussie Land it makes sense. As such, I am doubling down on my long-ago suggestion of adding a relay tied to the fan low speed and compressor as a trigger (Mounted in the upper unit) to shut off the fan when it auto cycles to low speed while on auto. This suggestion is exactly what another AS owner (GSMBear) posted last month on their web site and one of our owners posted on ours. I took a deep dive into that video and the relay part is relatively easy. But one also has to know how to relocate the room air sensor from the supply air duct to the ambient area. Detailed info on this must be known before just adding the relay. GJ

Yes, you need a second transfer switch. GJ

Thinking outside of the box, why not take advantage of the spare tire assembly. If I recall there is a massive bolt that holds the rim in place. That would make an elevated starting point for securing an upper structurall bike support. Make it a "Z" shape and get an even higher up safety point. Fix it to the bumper area and also at the spare tire mount. Extend it up and then out. Sorry for the crude crayola drawing, but best I can do on the road. GJ

For sure! GJ

Tummy: That's the same conclusion I came to in December. Thanks for posting your results. I have the relay in hand and would sure love to see a detail installation diagram for connection. I can figure it out, but seeing it would save all of us a lot of time and worry. Thanks again! Geronimo John

Well, the "fool" is on a mission now. Will be traveling to the mainland later this week and will be installing my Houghton 13.5 unit . Per BHNCB's picture and other posts, some of the condensate is evaporated off, and at times some drains out of some (depending on trailer leveling) of the below marked holes. I would like to add some EDPM rubber sealing material in a tall "U" shape around these holes. Would have the open end towards the rear of the trailer. Idea is to set up slightly nose high and let it drain towards the back of Ollie. For the Ollie DYI installers of this unit, can you advise about how much curvature there is outside of the drain holes relative to the mounting height of the A/C? Basically what thickness should I be looking to seal to do so? Thank you, Geronimo John

What size Butyl Tape did you use? Great post. Thank you for taking the time to do so. GJ

is lost.... somewhere!

As several above owners have hinted, Champion has many generators and the one you want is their inverter generator. Their hammer mill older technology will get your head on a pole at most boondock sites and RV parks. GJ

Yep, did that once. When I thought about it without cobwebs in my sleepy eyes another approach came to mind. I always use my curb side tank as my primary tank. I keep the street side full and in reserve. WHEN the above situation occurs, I still have to stumble outside, open the hand hold, and flip the tank switch. In my sleepy daze I don't bother putting the hand hold back in because its cold out there. Will do that in the morning. Back to the kitchen, light the cook stove and the furnace fires up. I'm then sound asleep in 2 minutes. Then later the next day I notice that the hand hole cover is missing. So I ask my lovely bride "Honey, where did the dog house hand hold cover go?" She rolls her eyes and say's "It's in the basket dear". GJ