Geronimo John

No worries with LiFePO4 batteries and the furnace. The furnace only draws a few amp hours to run the fan when using Propane. However, if using the heat pump capability on some units, it would not last very many days. Recommend traveling with a 95% SOC before leaving.

Your comment sparked an idea. I carry a bunch of microfiber towels. Wonder if I could stuff several of them them along the bottom edge of the twin bed blinds? Sort of give the moisture there a place to go (instead onto the bedding) during the really cold nights. Then in the morning pull them out to dry outside as suggested.

OMG. Way too many point for failure on a chain binder vs. the Anderson chain and super bolt/nut. Sorry, but a Mechanical Engineer I would not recommend. GJ

Ran across this one. A bit in the gray zone... so to speak, but really funny. GJ VIDEO-2022-09-09-13-50-14.mp4

OH: Thanks for the reference to the Camera Source system. I noted the 64' of cable run. Would work nicely. Except for the "only in reverse" issue. So, for grins I called the Camera Source and asked about the "In Reverse Only". Their Technician, who installed this unit in his Ford 150, indicated that because of Ford programming, it has to be controlled by the Ford computer. This requirement came about as a result of the Ford Programmers. I asked about picking up another power source, such as I use on my Furrion (see above). He indicated "Sadly, that will not work due to the Ford Programmers". So basically, nice try... but no go.

Frank: Thanks for sharing the graphic. One and a half gallons of RV Condensation for two while cold camping. That is huge. Sure explains the wet beds we at first experienced. To keep beds dry and CINC-HOUSE happy, I had to make a hard decision. Either: I had to shower & do dishes outside, and also sleep under the awning. OR Or open up the trailer. I think CINC-HOUSE was thinking hard about the first option. We found it best to open the Bathroom window. The reason for this choice is to draw cooler air in low and as far from the sleeping area as possible. As suggested above we also crack open the MaxFan just a little. Being high it will exhaust humid warm air quite well. An important benefit of this approach is that the make-up air has a chance to mix and warm up before it reaches our sleeping area. To facilitate this pre-warming benefit, I close the heater vents at the rear of the trailer, and keep the kitchen and bath vents wide open. GJ

I mounted my Furrion TrailerCam high and tied it into the running lights circuit in the Attic. I often cover 500 miles solo, but after a long day, I really try to avoid trailering at night. As such, I don't generally put many excess miles on the TrailerCam. When backing, or if I want to see what's going on back there, I simply turn on the running lights. Works well for our situation. More germane to this thread though is that I contacted Furrion an Ford to see if there was any way their camera could display on our F-150 center 8" screen. Nope.

Amen to that! I pray that all our Oliver Families are able to enjoy this special day of thanks. John and June

Just got my morning e-mail and the RecPro black friday sale is on. 13% discount on their sale price = $826. That's a really good price. GJ

In the mean time, if anybody sees a Black Friday (or any day) super sale for the Houghton's, please let me (us) know. GJ

Mike: Would RED LINE CV-2 work well for this? GJ

Aloha Oliver: Please note that I have changed my profile thereby declining participation in the OTT Field Visit Program. Nor do I desire to be a participant of the Oliver Rewards Program or Real Time GPS tracking initiative. When OTT "does the right thing" and provides defense and indemnification for owners participating in these programs, I will revoke my decline to participate. Mahalo, Geronimo John (Owner Hull 342)

Is OTT going to take down the University? That's the only reason I can think of for the recent posting of hundreds of the by year products used in our trailers. Did I miss the memo? At least one inquiring mind would like to know. GJ

Pstar post thread 20 APR 2020 came to the same conclusion. Thanks for the reminder to all of us! GJ

Very common for floor drains to go dry. Try adding a table spoon of cooking oil in the P-trap (After winterizing of course with antifreeze). The cooking oil will greatly reduce evaporation and when frozen totally eliminate it until spring!

I love the compiled versions. Everything in one place. Great idea. GJ

Thanks Jason!

This note addresses the ropes or straps used by many “Non-Winch” vehicle recovery systems. Basically, there are two types of vehicle recovery ropes/strap designs: One uses the power of the retrieval vehicle to pull the stuck vehicle. This is a slow steady process some call “Static Pull” or “Low Energy” recovery design. The other has the recovery vehicle moving and stretching the tow rope/strap to multiply the pull-out forces considerably. These are called kinetic energy recovery (K.E.) ropes or straps. The tow related fatality video that I sent out previously (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb3BkeeXlIo) discussed not using our receiver hitch ball as a vehicle recovery attachment point. But in reality, ANY failure in the recovery system would likely result in flying missile(s) of various destructive energy heading either forward or backward depending where the break occurs in a K.E. based connection. The below video tests a Kinetic Energy strap that has redesigned by the OEM with a “safety strap” in an effort to control the uncontrolled energy during failure. It certainly highlights how safety clearance well away from the recovery operation is warranted. It is worth a watch to see the failure mechanics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7STkTpTjDCU If you are a professionally trained in vehicle recovery, and practice the craft on a regular basis, with all the correct equipment and safety gear…. then you would want to have the proper equipment as indicated in the above two videos. This would include both static pull and K.E. gear. I was strongly biased to purchasing a K.E. style system due to their effectiveness. However, after watching the above two video’s, I changed my mind for many reasons. After many hours of research and soul searching, now I am following Frank C.’s lead in preparing for “minor emergency towing situations”. To that which he posted, I added two soft Shackles to facilitate connection at the stuck vehicle end without creating a heavy missile. I also went with a 30’ tow strap to allow for more options. To be clear, this is a static/low energy set-up and will only be used as such. The Rhino gear I chose is on-sale (Pre Thanksgiving 2022) at the Rhino web site. The sale cost plus free shipping and a Muddy10 (10%) discount is less costly than Amazon Prime at this time. I am interested in your comments and thoughts. Mahalo, GJ Rhino Kit: 30' Tow Strap, Hitch Receiver, Shackle Kit: 7/16" Synthetic Soft Shackles (2 Pack)

Oh My... It is obvious that I totally missed the point. I think we have a new contender to the top three posters of fall time! Go JASON! James!!!!!!!! (GJ Edit OOPS! Sorry Jason!) LOL. It's been a slow day in Bedrock..... GJ

I am very sure that the new owner's of 2023 OTT's will greatly appreciate James W. taking the time to post all of these Owner's Manuals for all 1,000 of us that have 2022 and older units. It really was a grand task I suspect. I think we all should individually respond to him thanking him for doing so. Maybe one thank you from each of us for for each of the manuals. I am sure that he would enjoy seeing our unending gratitude. Was there a problem with just posting them to the Oliver University with a single note announcing the great info at our fingertips for the 2023 models? Sort of like we have for most years since 2014. LOL. GJ

OTT just posted about 60 of the 2023 Owner's Manuals. The one that caught my eye is the Truma Eco a/c. Here is the info of question: 6.1.2 Operation with generator or power inverter The air conditioner can be operated with a power inverter or generator. The following specifications are recommended: • Power inverter type: Pure sine-wave voltage • Nominal voltage: 110 V - 130 V AC • Phase: 1 • Frequency: 60 Hz. +/- 5 % • Inrush current capability: 250 ms with 115 V / 60 A RMS. • Loads: ohmic and inductive • Recommended power: min. 3000 W I wonder if OTT is providing the EZ-Start with this unit? Will it tolerate using one? GJ

SeaDawg: Excellent advice! Beaver Pilot: Please post your TV and OTT info in your signature line. I have three close friends, all life-long residents of AK, who basically advised us the same concerns posted by SeaDawg. This past summer, we spent 45 days in Alaska with our OEII, most of it boondocking. However we did not venture very far north of Fairbanks. Over 15K from TX out and back. You'll need to be prepared for a lot of flying missiles and very rough slow slogging roads heading your way, especially if you venture more than very far from Fairbanks. As an Alaska Bush pilot, you likely have all of the below. But for new owners who have not DRIVEN to AK, here is a list of items that I found appropriate: Searching "mud flaps" and "stone stompers" postings at our forum. Start by looking at the bottom of all of John Davies post where he has a link to several of them. He, and other owners have well documented DYI solutions that such a trip would warrant. One suggestion that I did not take, that I wish I had done, was padding the front edges of my OEII and rear mud flaps on Ollie. Got battle scars as a result. Bringing a full compliment of tire maintenance tools (TPMS, Air Gauge, Air Compressor, jack, and a tire plug kit is the minimum. Bring an RV satellite based navigation system/ I have, and recommend, a Garmin InReach Mini II. If you don't have Ford's 36 gallon fuel tank (or equivalent), then having extra fuel cans. If your TV is older, then consider rubber hoses and belts. Handy to have a spare engine oil filter and oil. Near perfect full size spares for both TV and Ollie. Vehicle recovery gear. Good set of tools. First aid kit and extra meds for the duration of your trip (No Resupply). Update your Ollie with outdoor bug lights (courtesy (puddle) lights and porch lights). Finally if going way north of Fairbanks, plan on replacing your windshield and likely your Oliver front logo when you get back. Please keep us posted, and when you get back, kindly update the above list with your thoughts and experience. Good luck and safe travels! Geronimo John

Glad it works now.

I think all of us Lithium users would love such a procedure. However, the problem is that there are soooo many different situations that call for different procedures. For example: A warm location where hard freezes are rare, would likely have different requirements than a location such as ours where Ollie is on top of a mountain in Oklahoma and can see -10 degrees F for a week, and in the teens for a long time some winters. Some have shore power, some have solar, some don't have an inverter. Some have Lithionics, some Battleborn, some AGM and some LA. Each has different requirements. Some have internal heaters, some external heaters, some no heaters. Some can remove their batteries to a warm location... many can't. Some can store their trailer inside a non-freezing area, some outside, some covered. Is there someone looking out for the trailer on a regular basis, or is it all alone in harsh conditions for nine months? Just to name a few. Each of the above likely have impacts on a specific situation. So many so that a matrix would be useful... May I suggest that you summarize your specific electrical systems (Solar, Inverter, Converter, Shore Power, Expected Temperatures, how stored, how long will it be stored under what conditions it will be stored, etc.) and send it by E-mail to your battery MFG. Having their response to YOUR specific situation in WRITING would be golden. Your summary and their answer would make a wonderful thread on this forum. "Maybe titles: "XXX MFG Charging Recommendations for XXX Lithium Batteries". In the mean time, all this gets clearer with use and understanding. It is wondaful that we have o many great owners here that are so willing to help the new guys along the way get to truly enjoy our wonderful OTT's. Mahalo, GJ

Margaret: I may be totally off base with this as I'm 4,000 miles from my Ollie to check your pictures against my railer. There are two "intended to drip/leak" drains for our OTT's. One just aft of the entrance door is the water tank overflow drain. The second is on the street-side rear for the A/C condensate drain. Could these be the leaks you are seeing? GJ