Geronimo John

Somebody throw me a rope, I'm way too deep in this rabbet hole!

If we assume that it IS voltage that controls the individual charge controllers output, then we could adjust their system to shut down in the order that makes most sense to charge time reduction. Maybe to do that we would want the lowest charging power system to have a lower full charge cut off point, and exit the field first. Then the next lowest power charge controller set at a slightly higher full charge cut off point. So basically the team on the field would be reduced sequentially leaving the most powerful one in play the longest. Thereby reducing total charge control Time. This may work so long as all the team players are playing the same game... But if some are rugby, some are soccer, and at least one is football all bets are off. Again way beyond anything I am qualified to think about.....

I agree with Mossemi. My understanding of the Victron 712 Smart is that it simply is a reporting tool. it does not change or modify any power flows. It simply measures voltage, current, and in some cases battery temperature. It does not have any control features. Precisely stated. I have no doubt that as the Litho's SOC approaches 100% that all the connected charging systems will see the voltage and either shut down or go to maintenance. So we are not at the "She canna take any more, Cap'n! She's gonna blow!" situation. I agree with your premis that one of the systems will assume the role of "Big Boy" and rule the roost. For an older set up like ours (Hull 342 See Above List), the PD 4060 is the big boy in the fight. This is in line with Ollie-Haus that the more powerful system will prevail. But on the other hand we don't really know at this point which system and why it will act like the big boy regardless of it's power output ranking. If we really understand "how they play together", it would be productive to only turn on the systems that will maximize the charge process, especially when we are at low SOC. No point in having other systems connected and at risk if the one acting like the big boy has them sitting on the bench. So, I'm thinking it is not necessarily which system is the most powerful, but rather more likely which system is operating at the highest voltage at the time that becomes the bully to the other charge controllers. Any PHD Electrical guys out there? This is WAY over my Mechanical Engineer's pea brain. GJ

Bill: Since you and Mr. Ed converse on a regular basis, will the Dealers have an OE2 and maybe an OE at their places of business so that prospective owners can actually see one in person without having to trek to the Mother Ship? GJ

I think their plan will have hurdles, but I think it is a logical and necessary step for OTT to be able to maintain their new customer base. Service and sales locations located closer to home will be advantages especially for younger owners and those that may not be as skilled in the DYI and maintenance of our complex machines. Especially the newer trailers with their interconnected electronic systems. The hand writing is on the wall that the need for service depots dispersed across the country becomes increasingly necessary as we are de-graying of the fleet owners. For some firms, the logical business next steps are what worry this owner: Likely down side for existing owners is that the next step could be to reduce their Service Team. That would over time impact our access to the Service Team's tremendous amount of institutional knowledge that Jason and his staff have garnered Doing so will reduce the feedback loop that they provide to the firm in general. Just one aspect of this is the warranty and service info requests likely will have to be routed through the "local" dealers. Feedback filters generally are not real productive.. I am an OTT fan for sure, and I pray that the OTT Management Team is taking some of the above in mind and is working to mitigate them as they move down this path. Based upon my paltry 6 years of relationship with many of the OTT staff, it is my bet that they are. My reason is that they are exceptionally bright and truly care about this company and our trailers. They also know that the forum is one of the higher ranking reasons that they see new owners walking in their front door. We may be a PITA at times, but our love of their product shows in just about 95% of the posts. How many times have we seen a new owner comment about us? Proof is in the pudding and I think it will work out. GJ

50: 1 took forever to get the job done. Only did it once. Even with JD's knuckle saver idea, it still took forever. Then I came up with a much better solution: See Below Wait for it Here it is! GJ

We camp amoung lots of trees and kind of like the idea of the rain guard as a small bit of protection as well. GJ

Excellent. I fully agree. So let's drill a bit deeper with an example of how our systems "play together" for charging Litho's at lower SOC's. Like more than a few of us DYI Litho System owners, let's assume that Ollie has: 30-amp rated Orion DC to D­C 200-watt Renogy solar suitcase (about 15-amp ideally) 60-amp PD Converter 3 Each 100 aH Battleborns Victron 712 Smart Under ideal conditions, combined this system theoretically could produce 105 amps to charge our Litho’s via their three different manufacturer’s charge controllers. Assuming that the SOC of the BB's is at 40%, and I have shore power (Using PD 4060), solar suitcase, and DC-DC all online charging. I have no illusions that I would ever see the theoretical 105 amps charge rate. Why, system efficiencis are not 100%, and I suspect that each of their individual charge controllers will independently determine the amount of power it will provide to the batteries. In my mind’s eye, it assumes that each of the three charge controllers use battery voltage as their primary source of intel for how much power to send to the batteries. Since each of the three controllers have different circuitry, and their voltage set points are not necessarily set to the same values, there likely will be different responses to a given battery voltage/SOC. Additionally, the PD 4060 (with Litho Switch) for sure does not have the standard three step litho charge profiles as does the Renogy and Victron components. Reminds me of having three fighter pilots from different countries Air Forces trying to fly formation when they each speak different languages and each pilot think he/she is in charge. Bound to be a crash. In the above scenario, I called it not “Playing Well Together”. I interpret your above response, and agree, that at the high end of the battery bank SOC, the three separate charge controllers will eventually hit their charge “back off“ voltage and then will either slow the charge rate or stop charging. Some call this a Maintenance Mode. If they each have reverse power protection circuitry/diodes, that should be fine. But in this scenario, the SOC is at 40%. The Litho’s are hungry for power. The big boy (relatively speaking) PD 4060 sets the pace with it’s non-adjustable 14.6V (?) charge voltage and is putting out an actual 56+ amps per my Victron 712. Would the other two see this as a full charge voltage and go into Maintenance Mode? Thereby defeating my goal "Warp Drive" using all the power “Scotty” can provide? If this is the case, they survive well, but don’t play together well. IF my mind’s eye does not need glasses, then: Will stacking additional solar panel systems each using individual controllers result in the same conclusion? Would using the same MFG solar panels and controller change their play behavior? Is there a means to effectively use multiple independent power sources (such as listed on our example above) to together efficiently charge the battery bank (play well together)? GJ

Where did the belly band go? GJ

I'm impressed! I love diversity of power supply for sure. When I was installing our Lithiums and DC to DC and solar suit case I asked the forum if they could all play together at the same time. Got zero response back then. Looks like with your DC to DC Charger + Solar Panel on TV Bed Cover + Oliver Solar + Portable Panel = You seem to know how to do it. Would love to hear your thoughts and suggestions. Sorry in advance for hijackings my own thread! 🙂 GJ

If I recall, it was John Davies that first posted the idea. A primary purpose was to facilitate the use of an IR temperature sensor at rest stops to periodically check the hub temperature directly. This I do as well.

One approach to moving air, as the above dozens of posts have discussed, is to duct it. Another way is to not duct it and use pressure differentials to move the air. SO, if you are not a "ductor", think about this concept: The basement is sort of a sealed compartment. With a little bit of effort it could become closer to being one. Then add a computer fan at the curb side under bed bulkhead to slightly pressurize the basement area with warmer air. To get this warmer air to the shower/fresh/city port areas, you'll need to open up a passage way between them and the basement and a vent to the street side under bed area. Hypothetically, at this point convectional air movement (Warm air rises, cool air falls) may be enough to freeze proof the area. If not, add a second 2 watt mini fan. Worst case is you will be pulling about 4 watts of power (two fans) vs. 300 watts of electrical resistance heating. GJ

Spray Foam it. GJ

Question: Would opening the "Optional" hatch into the rear basement storage area help keep the outside shower/city & fresh water ports from freezing in extreme temperatures? GJ

I guess that they would then become "Never Adjust". Not to be confused with "Manual Adjust". Or does my brain need an adjustment? Is there a tool for that? LOL GJ

And the magical brass punch/race remover! I have not seen one of those in decades. Sweet. Who did you order it from?

When we purchased our OE2 in 2018, we passed on the solar kit due to cost and my obsession with not messing with the aerodynamics of the super smooth OE2. As expected the costs of solar panels are more reasonable now, but the commercialization of flat thin flexible panels has taken awhile. I don't know if these panels will flex enough for full roof coverage, but a combination of the slim and rectangular thin panels may suffice for great aerodynamics. Should that be the case, with thin connections it may be the ticket. Anybody tried this out yet? GJ

David: Nice install! I may get a couple of your straps for my battery compartment. Two thoughts: To keep the batteries in place requires a significant amount of tension. Hence your heavy duty straps. When in motion, energy pulses from the suspension system imparts to the frame, and then to the metal plate that supports the battery bay. Fortunately with EZ Flex and four shocks, these pulses are significantly reduced... but not eliminated. The result is varying tension of the straps. Higher pressure when the pulses are up, and lower when they are down. In essence your cables will be acting like super strong springs between the straps and the AGM's. That over time, the spring movement (Cables) will impact the crimped connections and possibly effectiveness of the system itself. In short, I recommend running the straps under the battery cables. Thus forces of the straps on the batteries will not have nearly as much on the cables and connections. Secondly, if you do not already have a Master Battery Switch, I would certainly suggest your getting one. BlueSeas 350 amp is a great one that many of us use. GJ

David: Is this the InstaCrate you are using under the front dinette set? I'm been looking high and low for something like this. Thanks GJ

Art: Great effort. Down the road June likely will need the same set-up. Some questions: How do you raise the mast? What kind of speed does the system generally provide in "city" and while "remote"? Any wag on the equipment and accessories cost (not counting your time which is priceless of course?). About what does the monthly cost run? Thanks GJ

To do so, you would also have to have the gray line valve (next to the toilet) in the travel (closed) position. Or, you could drop a lit M-80 in the toilet... that for sure would do the trick. Not recommended.

A picture would be grand! I'll be back in Texas first week of February for the Texas Rodeo Salt Grass Trail Ride. Working as a gopher to help out. Should have some down time during the day to work this. So, not a huge rush. Many thanks for taking the time to explain how you fixed this. I can remember my first encounter with a massive Alaska corduroy road hump that likely got my microwave. It sure got my attention, and I changed the interstate driving style to much more of an off road style... and speed as a result. GJ

JD and Rivernerd: It only took me 40 years to digest using a di-electric (Insulating Grease) on electrical connections that we want to not be insulated. My head aches are back! just kidding. But seriously, for what applications does one use DC 4 vs. DC5? GJ

Yes, descale HWH with vinegar. But dump it. Keep it isolated from any bleach. Use the hot water isolation valve to do so. When done, then button up the HWH open the isolation valve and flow fresh water through it to purge all vinegar and scale out of the HWH. I have attached my water systems checklists. It has several processes with detailed steps that a new owner could follow easily. Once you have done them a few times, it will come natural. But I do understand not knowing for sure what you think you may not. Each use I find ways to improve them. So If you or others see errors or ways to improve them, please PM me and I'll update. Mahalo, GJ 2024 WATER SYSTEMS SERVICE AND SANITIZATION (Updated 2024 Version).docx

Sherrill: Absent signature block info about your trailer and TV, one can get and give really bad info. Here is your profile info: If you don't have a hard sided camper, then I would never recommend boondocking for a trans Alaska trip. Just too many opportunities for wildlife to ruin your day. GJ