Geronimo John

Sure looks like he does. I hope so!!!!!!!!! GJ

But instead....

still boxed awaiting

Houghton A/C unit

a tired ROF

Spot on SeaDawg. My primary reason is that I have more options to transport two smaller ones than one larger one. Either way, I prefer not to have stuff on the roof of our Ollie as we put a lot of miles on her each summer. Tucked away under my F-150 Retrax bed cover it causes no wind resistance. GJ

Several of us have gone down this path. Some have used two each 100 watt solar suit cases. Some, like myself, have gone the single 200 watt unit. I sure wished I had listened and use the two smaller ones. Just a hint my friends..... GJ

Wow, you have really really great eye sight! GJ

Straps can be cut in seconds. As posted above, I'm more into making the effort time consuming for a thief. Locking down the trays could be a good way to do that. One of the greatest benefits of this forum is that we have many brilliant experienced "handy guys and gals" listening in. Starter ideas generally get refined to savvy executable ideas or alternatives that almost always work better than the first poster's thoughts. Sort of like cooking spaghetti... really good the first time out of the pot. But with three days in the cooler, you end up with a great pot of Italian! Ditto with this forum.

Sounds like it would work. Just a cautionary note: Metal Bands, Hasp and Lock anywhere near the tops of the batteries could become an Arch Flash moment. Especially when bouncing down a fire road with Ollie. So take that into consideration. GJ

Frank: Same latch/lock would be ok. But are you saying all those locks use the same key code? If so, that's a WHOLE lot worse. If not, any idea how many key combinations they provide? Just trying to get a better understanding of the risk side of this issue. thanks GJ

I agree. I'm again thinking about this topic. Some options using a pair of rivet-nuts (Blind Flange Nuts), mounted in the battery "Outside" tray slides and a pair of matching bolts thru the inside "Inside" tray slide as an approach. I am thinking of using grade 8 security bolts like these. This would make pulling out the tray impossible. If there is not enough clear area in the slides, I would consider drilling through both and mounting the Rivet-Nuts in the battery box side walls and using longer security bolts. This may require using some poly sheets to reinforce the walls. The special bit would likely be in a small tie bag behind the batteries where only I would know where it is located. My Blue Sea Master Cutoff switch is accessible by just opening the door to the battery area. So this is not a concern from a safety standpoint. I had thought of doing something like this long ago when I had L/A batteries, but figured I was no longer as profitable target as our Llitho's are. Now that I also have Lithium's, I need to elevate this Mod to my "A" To Do List. This likely will slow down any bad people.

SkIpster: Here is all we know about your rig. Trying to give you great advice is really difficult by not at least knowing your trailer or TV info. For examples, see John's above or mine below Errrrrr my profile for examples. If knew that info I might indicate that for that vintage trailer, it is time to replace your Temp Pressure Relief valve. But I don't. So all I can say is: You were really lucky. Once a Temp/Pressure relief valve reaches about 5 years old, with good maintenance it IMHO is at the end of it's life especially if is has actually been activated. If serviced and a good anode is always in play, ten years is my recommend must change out recommendation. But can't say either because your Ollie and TV info is unknown. Please add both to your profile info and we can look it up. Also please add it to the tag line as JD has above. Added suggested TV and Hull info below. It's easy. Just go to settings in your account. At the bottom is Signature. Edit there. GJ

Did you clean the jack barrels below Ollie's hull? Once clean, did you lube them? What did you use to do so? thanks GJ

I would have to think about it minute or two.............

QUESTION FOR LUBRICATION OF UPPER COVER HINGE: John Davies: Since I will be replacing the Operator Mechanism I'll be well into our Max Fan. So I'll also be coating the mother board and adding weeps as you have suggested. I suspect it was my upper cover jerky hinge that damaged the mechanical operator. It appears that it where it is located, it is not highly visible. Since, at least in my eyes, it is really important to keep it lubricated, and spray lubes have a relatively short life span, and getting to it to properly lube it is a small PITA, why not use CV-2 on it? GJ

I use mine at King Mountain Air Park outside Moore ID on a regular basis. It is at 5,500' msl. (Not on ECO MODE) Anybody have experience higher?

Yea for $15 you can buy one of these: But most of us just take a plug and make our own for free. If you are a John D though, you would want to add a rope loop out the end where the wire normally passes. Then I would loop the plug around the handle of my generator so I don't lose it and also as a visual reminder to..... you got it....... USE IT! 🙂 GJ

Hate to be a nitpicker, but technically as stated I think you are only 99.5% correct. For bonus points you need to add "Unless you activate the bypass switch on the EMS". More than once my first year I was stumped why my generator was not working. FINALLY with a similar prompt, I learned of the "Bonded Plug" trick. Then I would forget to use it and bypass the EMS and my generator works because I had left the EMS in bypass. IMHO, it is better to leave the EMS in use mode and instead remember to use the bonded neutral plug. Just a matter of brain retraining. 🙂 GJ

On mine, YES it will BUTTTTTTTTTT When I looked that voltage drop and time to fire off the unit, I only run my Honda on full power mode when I have the A/C running.

High security keys.... LOL Glad we can trust other Ollie Owners! GJ

Excellent video and time saver! Really like your 350 amp Blue Sea Master Switch! 🙂 One of the Max Fan maintenance tasks that I also recommend is weather protecting the circuit board. GJ

The Honda EU2200I for sure will fire off and run long duration the Dometic Penguin II OEM OTT OE2 A/C (2018 Model Year). I am of the understanding that the slightly smaller I know of at least one Inverter 2000 W generator that will not pull the load. But from what understand, the Honda EU 2000i has done so for several owners. I suspect you may have problem with the (most likely) your A/C (Start/run capacitor), or your Honda (especially if converted to Propane) or your EZ Start if it is not "pulling the load". OWNERS WITH HONDA EU 2000i generators: Will your pull the Dometic Penguin A/C? The three "killer of a deal" questions were poised to other owners to ask when they are considering upgrading their A/C. Good to know in advance if their generator will "pull the load" or not. Could be a costly "Oh Crud" moment. 🙂 GJ

John: Thank you for all the great thoughts, ideas, and patience you have provided to so many other Oliver owners. God bless you Sir. GJ

That must be the max inrush current. Key questions I would require answers for if I were interested are: What 120V breaker does it require? What size electrical service wire does it require? Will a 2,000 watt Honda EU 2000i generator reliably start and run the unit with or without EZ Start? If the answers are: Greater than 20 amp #12 AWG No It would for sure be a deal breaker. GJ