Geronimo John

EDITS IN GREEN: Ok, now that I have my Houghton 3400 heat pump installed and have run it in 106 degrees full sun on our OE2, I can respond with a professional M.E. opinion: The 13.5 KBTU Houghton 3400 is NOT oversized for hot running conditions. I would not recommend a 11,000 BTU unit for an OE2 if you go to hot places, Secondly, again in my opinion the humidity problem is certainly caused by re-evaporation of humidity on the coils after the compressor is shut down. Frankly IMHO, this is a bad design element of Houghton units for USA use where humidity issurs are common. But for the dry Aussie Land it makes sense. As such, I am doubling down on my long-ago suggestion of adding a relay tied to the fan low speed and compressor as a trigger (Mounted in the upper unit) to shut off the fan when it auto cycles to low speed while on auto. This suggestion is exactly what another AS owner (GSMBear) posted last month on their web site and one of our owners posted on ours. I took a deep dive into that video and the relay part is relatively easy. But one also has to know how to relocate the room air sensor from the supply air duct to the ambient area. Detailed info on this must be known before just adding the relay. GJ

Yes, you need a second transfer switch. GJ

Thinking outside of the box, why not take advantage of the spare tire assembly. If I recall there is a massive bolt that holds the rim in place. That would make an elevated starting point for securing an upper structurall bike support. Make it a "Z" shape and get an even higher up safety point. Fix it to the bumper area and also at the spare tire mount. Extend it up and then out. Sorry for the crude crayola drawing, but best I can do on the road. GJ

For sure! GJ

Tummy: That's the same conclusion I came to in December. Thanks for posting your results. I have the relay in hand and would sure love to see a detail installation diagram for connection. I can figure it out, but seeing it would save all of us a lot of time and worry. Thanks again! Geronimo John

Well, the "fool" is on a mission now. Will be traveling to the mainland later this week and will be installing my Houghton 13.5 unit . Per BHNCB's picture and other posts, some of the condensate is evaporated off, and at times some drains out of some (depending on trailer leveling) of the below marked holes. I would like to add some EDPM rubber sealing material in a tall "U" shape around these holes. Would have the open end towards the rear of the trailer. Idea is to set up slightly nose high and let it drain towards the back of Ollie. For the Ollie DYI installers of this unit, can you advise about how much curvature there is outside of the drain holes relative to the mounting height of the A/C? Basically what thickness should I be looking to seal to do so? Thank you, Geronimo John

What size Butyl Tape did you use? Great post. Thank you for taking the time to do so. GJ

is lost.... somewhere!

As several above owners have hinted, Champion has many generators and the one you want is their inverter generator. Their hammer mill older technology will get your head on a pole at most boondock sites and RV parks. GJ

Yep, did that once. When I thought about it without cobwebs in my sleepy eyes another approach came to mind. I always use my curb side tank as my primary tank. I keep the street side full and in reserve. WHEN the above situation occurs, I still have to stumble outside, open the hand hold, and flip the tank switch. In my sleepy daze I don't bother putting the hand hold back in because its cold out there. Will do that in the morning. Back to the kitchen, light the cook stove and the furnace fires up. I'm then sound asleep in 2 minutes. Then later the next day I notice that the hand hole cover is missing. So I ask my lovely bride "Honey, where did the dog house hand hold cover go?" She rolls her eyes and say's "It's in the basket dear". GJ

Sure looks like he does. I hope so!!!!!!!!! GJ

But instead....

still boxed awaiting

Houghton A/C unit

a tired ROF

Spot on SeaDawg. My primary reason is that I have more options to transport two smaller ones than one larger one. Either way, I prefer not to have stuff on the roof of our Ollie as we put a lot of miles on her each summer. Tucked away under my F-150 Retrax bed cover it causes no wind resistance. GJ

Several of us have gone down this path. Some have used two each 100 watt solar suit cases. Some, like myself, have gone the single 200 watt unit. I sure wished I had listened and use the two smaller ones. Just a hint my friends..... GJ

Wow, you have really really great eye sight! GJ

Straps can be cut in seconds. As posted above, I'm more into making the effort time consuming for a thief. Locking down the trays could be a good way to do that. One of the greatest benefits of this forum is that we have many brilliant experienced "handy guys and gals" listening in. Starter ideas generally get refined to savvy executable ideas or alternatives that almost always work better than the first poster's thoughts. Sort of like cooking spaghetti... really good the first time out of the pot. But with three days in the cooler, you end up with a great pot of Italian! Ditto with this forum.

Sounds like it would work. Just a cautionary note: Metal Bands, Hasp and Lock anywhere near the tops of the batteries could become an Arch Flash moment. Especially when bouncing down a fire road with Ollie. So take that into consideration. GJ

Frank: Same latch/lock would be ok. But are you saying all those locks use the same key code? If so, that's a WHOLE lot worse. If not, any idea how many key combinations they provide? Just trying to get a better understanding of the risk side of this issue. thanks GJ

I agree. I'm again thinking about this topic. Some options using a pair of rivet-nuts (Blind Flange Nuts), mounted in the battery "Outside" tray slides and a pair of matching bolts thru the inside "Inside" tray slide as an approach. I am thinking of using grade 8 security bolts like these. This would make pulling out the tray impossible. If there is not enough clear area in the slides, I would consider drilling through both and mounting the Rivet-Nuts in the battery box side walls and using longer security bolts. This may require using some poly sheets to reinforce the walls. The special bit would likely be in a small tie bag behind the batteries where only I would know where it is located. My Blue Sea Master Cutoff switch is accessible by just opening the door to the battery area. So this is not a concern from a safety standpoint. I had thought of doing something like this long ago when I had L/A batteries, but figured I was no longer as profitable target as our Llitho's are. Now that I also have Lithium's, I need to elevate this Mod to my "A" To Do List. This likely will slow down any bad people.

SkIpster: Here is all we know about your rig. Trying to give you great advice is really difficult by not at least knowing your trailer or TV info. For examples, see John's above or mine below Errrrrr my profile for examples. If knew that info I might indicate that for that vintage trailer, it is time to replace your Temp Pressure Relief valve. But I don't. So all I can say is: You were really lucky. Once a Temp/Pressure relief valve reaches about 5 years old, with good maintenance it IMHO is at the end of it's life especially if is has actually been activated. If serviced and a good anode is always in play, ten years is my recommend must change out recommendation. But can't say either because your Ollie and TV info is unknown. Please add both to your profile info and we can look it up. Also please add it to the tag line as JD has above. Added suggested TV and Hull info below. It's easy. Just go to settings in your account. At the bottom is Signature. Edit there. GJ

Did you clean the jack barrels below Ollie's hull? Once clean, did you lube them? What did you use to do so? thanks GJ

I would have to think about it minute or two.............