Geronimo John

I He honestly does not know? I'll PM you some thoughts later this weekend. GJ

On my OE2 if I have closed the drain valve for travel, I and use the kitchen sink, it will fill the shower drain P-trap and overflow water into the shower drain pan. That resulted in my FIRST wet socks experience.

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Anybody know what year OTT started imbedding solar mounting plates in the OE2's? Thanks, GJ

That's amazing! I shall implement your suggestion. Thanks GJ

For us locationally impaired, would you be so kind as to post a picture of your wonderful approach? Mahalo GJ

I as well. Being in Honolulu and Ollie on the mainland, I could not grab a picture of my mod, but wanted readers to "see" the topic. So I borrowed John D's picture.

From my perspective the ceramic fuses work just as well as the glass cartage variety as listed above for our Ollie applications. A ceramic fuse contains a blowout and can arch less than a glass ones for high current events. However the down side is that the ceramic ones cost more. Grainger likes it when customers absolutely trust that their products are genuine. Casting stones at Amazon is part of that game, but not totally without merit. Problem is knockoff products used in critical applications must work as advertised... such a fuses. Hence for fuses, axle bearings and seals I buy from "more trusted" vendors than some Amazon resellers are. That said I have bought fuses stocked at Amazon and they appeared to not be knock-offs. So research the reseller if you really want to go that route.

I too have stumbled over the terminology. It is important that owners know where to use Slow Blow/Time Delay or Fast Acting fuses. Fuses are application specific. Motors with high current inrush need the SB/TD type. Most electronics do not. Below is what I found from 9 years ago from Viperwk. It is no longer totally inclusive for all manufacturers today, but gives us a pretty good hint. For our jacks, the Bussman MDL would be a good choice. https://www.google.com/search?q=For+fuses%2C+what+is+time+delay+vs.+slow+blow&oq=For+fuses%2C+what+is+time+delay+vs.+slow+blow&aqs=chrome..69i57.10832j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 New Haven, CT 10y 42,650 4,167 More 312 and 313 are specifically for Littelfuse. In the glass cartridge variety for the 1/4 x 1 1/4" size, "time delay" fuses are New Edison - MDL Old Edison - BDL Bussmann - MDL Old Bussmann - MSL (http://tinyurl.com/mgjbq2c) Gould - GDL Littelfuse - 313 For "fast acting" New Edison - AGC Old Edison - BGC Bussmann - AGC Gould - GGC Littelfuse - 312 So a fuse that has on it 3A BDL is a 3A slow blow fuse made by the old Edison company. viperrwk

Our approaches tackle different topics. Mine saves time and knuckle damage. I do note that your all-thread rod is MUCH shorter than the one that came on my 2018 OE2. With your shorter all-thread this mod may not be necessary. But it still raise the wing nut up away from the tank shrouds a bit. Yours mod would for sure improve security and is also really easy to do. With your fire arms lock, you have spare cable to raise your wing nut up as well as improving security too. I like it!

Good point Mountainman! To that I add that an LE2 when being towed pretty much is in the wind shadow of our full sized Tow Vehicles. With Ollie's rounded shape the aerodynamic drag created is minimal compared to just about all "Stick Builts" and wider fiberglass trailers. I have taken many showers in trailers over the years. Not once have I not dried the shower stall for sanitation, mold/mildew prevention or just to make it look nice for my bride. The time it takes to dry our Ollie bath after a shower is less than a minute or two to more than to dry a dry bath shower. Yet as said above, having the square footage for other uses is huge in our well laid out LE2's.

I was reading John Davies post for improving the propane tank hoses and it reminded me of a mod I made several years ago. My shorter OEM Propane tanks leaves a lot of excess all-thread to spin up and down at every tank service. I thought about cutting the all-thread shorter, but discarded the idea as the next owner down the road may be a cold weather camper and want the taller tanks. My solution was to grab out of my garage a pair of washers and some tubing that would fit over the all-thread. I cut the tubing to leave about an inch of all-thread showing. One washer on each side of the tubing and I only have to spin off the wing nut about an inch. Saves time and knuckle damage. Cost: $0.00 GJ

Now that works. Short. Easy to Remember = Effective Communication! Thanks!

I read this as running the flipped axle over a curb to raise it and correcting the issue. I also read this as running the flipped axle over a 4X4 to raise it and correcting the issue. So it appears to me that both John D and topgun2 agree in the approach by raising the flipped axle. HOWEVER, In Jim and Frances video at 1:50 he shows and states "Put it (The jack) under the axle that is correct" and then shows raising the correct axle and the "Wonky/Flipped" axle bangs into place. Ok guys, you now have me confused. Will both approaches work? Please clarify. GJ PS: Scotty: I agree with NOT jacking under the axles!

I was thinking JB weld and Super glue... LOL Just kidding. Right call on the cut out vs. trailer disassembly. GJ

If they are available, I would love the door hinges and control board. will PM you . GJ

Santa: For Christmas can I get the Tall Boy version of the TruckFridge that would fill the whole cavity?

JD I think this may work better for you. It is an aluminum heat shield that is adhesive backed heat barrier rated up to 2000 degrees. Capable of reflecting 90% of radiant heat GJ

Yep. That sounds exactly like the wonderful idea you posted previously. 🙂 GJ

I am firmly in the camp that says exposed utilities that can be fully hidden show a lack of planning by the engineer or contractor. So, on this one issue we diverge. That said, I have t agree that the hide job was well done!

This is why I like our Owner's Forum, different ideas on how each owner has improvements for their trailer. I am 100% in the "Increase air flow to the Bathroom" team. I like both Maniacs' high adjustable vent, and the low vent to the basement proposed by Rivernerd. I really like the idea of adjustable vents for both. Summer, use only the high vent to avoid putting mosture into the basement. Cold conditions use only the low vent to help heat that area a bit. GJ.

Elimination of the power and data charge points from the nightstand IMHO was a very sad bean counter decision. We use ours a LOT. My condolences to the owners suffering without the night stand utility ports and having to hang cords not only in the kitchen and dinning area, but now also the rear of the trailer. Frankly I would prefer all the high power points to be moved to lower locations where code would allow. Up high under the upper cabinets is much less useful most of the time for us.

At first I, like most of the other owners above, I disapproved of the toy hauler post. After I read your post, I had to change my perspective. The article was posted in the Blog. Not the How To, DYI, or other technical sections. In my minds eye, the blog is for a wide variety of posts such as: Cooking tips Camping recommendations Driving routes What are you reading, listening to or doing for the holidays Alternative life styles etc. So, my angst is not with it being posted, or it being posted in the Blog. Heck, one day down the road one of my kiddo's may be thinking of buying a toy hauler and I may just check back and search the blog for the topic. I just wish I could figure out how to stop notifications from the blog category (Only) when I don't have the time to enjoy the content of that resource. GJ

I like this one. It plugs in at the USB port on the nightstand between the beds. So no cords hanging down. The "Amazon Basics" brand stuff has always worked well for us. GJ

As many of us know, its real hard to plan an Ollie mod when you will not even see your Ollie for the winter. Let alone from 4,000 miles and eight months as is our case. Prior to your most recent note, I was not aware that the Dometic Drain Pan spacer blocks are compressible. This shoots a huge hole in all of the above. I thank you for taking the time to mentor this effort, but it appears to have been "a fools errand". Hopefully you will fare better on the Set 1/Set 2 issue. GJ