Geronimo John

Another preventive reason to downsize the receiver hitch on the back of Ollie is to prevent potential Darwin Award winners (idiots) from towing their jeeps behind the trailer.

Long ago I upgraded to the 2 5/16 hitch. Glad I did. Would do it again. Lots of discussions on this topic. Suggest you search the blog.

Funny, I was looking on line at the very same chains! Thanks for posting. I was thinking of using my curly safety strings to connect up to the real safety chain attachment points, and run them back to a second attachment point under the propane tanks. Sort of a safety cable to the safety chain approach. No point in tossing them.

According to E-trailer, they state in their "How much power do electric brakes use?" the following: While there is no absolute standard for amp requirements on trailer brakes there are common practices between trailer component manufacturers. This creates a defacto standard. We’ve determined amperage requirements based on extensive testing, customer experience and information gathered directly from trailer component manufacturers. We’ve found the most common amperage draw on a 7-inch brake magnet to be 3.2 amps maximum. The increased amperage of a 10 or 12-inch brake magnet tends to max out at 4 amps. This means that a double axle brake system would be drawing a maximum of 16 amps for a full emergency stop. So, I'm thinking that when replacement or repair time comes around, that AWG 14 is likely to be a reasonable choice. Your thoughts? GJ

Three years ago, I purchased at Home Depot the Telesteps ladder shown below. As decked out, I'm about 245 pounds so I really liked the stronger version of the TeleSteps Climbing Ladder, Type 1, Model 1600E. If you are over 190 pounds or so, you may want to consider this heavy duty OSHA Compliant version. This firm was one of the original telestep providers and their product is first rate. When I get up on top of Ollie, I extend it out the full length and it gives me a high hand hold to then slide off the side to the roof. I would not recommend getting anything shorter than 12' actual ladder length. Don't be confused by how high you can reach, just go by the ladder actual height. I have been all over the roof of our Elite II every year for detail cleaning (Typically twice a season) and waxing every season. It is easier to wax the center section from on top. Safer to wax the lower top side sections from the ladder. First couple of times I was on top, I was a bit worried. Now not so much any more. This model collapses down to about 3' and fits very nicely in the front side (Behind the hanging cloths) of the coat closet as you enter Ollie. I cover it in a blanket to protect the fiberglass.

Figure that a fully fueled and loaded 2004 F-350 probably is in the 8,500 to 9,000 pound range. The impact loading on the chains would likely be at least 4 times this. I'm assuming that the tearing apart of the axle unit and other parts mitigated some of the shock loading. So, for round numbers, the momentary shock load would be in the order of about 45,000 pounds. I have not seen an advertisement for our curly safety strings. But similar ones are rated at either 3,500 and 5,000 pound ratings. My opinion is that the our curly safety strings and/or their attachment bolt would not survive this test. Granted, using something like 1/2" yellow steel Grade 70 steel transport & logging chain (Working load: 11,300 lbs) would be over kill, but some lighter versions would be worth looking into. @JD: This is begging for a JD how to "Hang Proof our Oliver Tow Vehicles"! (There is your thread title!) . 🙄 GJ

@JRK: I share most your thoughts. Some more pondering on my part is in order for the below: I am wondering how the brake controllers wires for millions of brake controllers, from the drivers position all the way back to the rear RV axles, are handling the max braking events? None of my many TV's and Trailers I have owned have had mega sized cables as suggested. I suspect this is the case for lots of reasons. In our case, my first one is that the max amp pull of 12 amps (3 amps X 4 brakes) is rarely a long duration continuous load. Secondly, modern brake controllers sense when a vehicle is stopped and back off the power flow to the magnetic coils when stopped, again shortening the duration. As such, maybe these ideas contribute to having used smaller wires for many many decades in millions of TV's. Using commonly used American Wire Gauge Cable/Conductor Sizes and Properties as a guide is not commonly practiced for short runs such as a TV and Ollie. For example, it lists a #12 AWG wire (assumed to be copper) as only carrying 9.3 amps. Where as they are allowed a continuous use rating in residential of 16 amps, and 20 amps intermittently. Hence they are protected by a 20 amp breaker. A #10 conductor is listed with a max current of 15 amps. Yet our Oliver, and about a million other similar trailers use these as 30 amp conductors and breakers. My experience as an engineer suggests that 14 ga would be a sufficient choice. However, your 10 ga would certainly work! Overkill, but it will work great! All that said, when it comes time to replace my brake assemblies, I'll certainly upgrade the wiring, not to 10 ga, but for sure larger than that which Oliver used. And as JD pointed out, it will not be run inside the axle. Finally, and it is a very rare occasion that I have ever suggested taken a JD suggestion even further. But here I go into unchartered regions....., My recommendation is to also run the larger replacement wires through a gray plastic (UV Resistant) conduit (Maybe 3/8") across the back side of the axle. Where the cable inters and exits the pvc, I will heat shrink wrap the cable with a 4" section (2" inside and 2" outside the PVC), and seal both ends of the conduit with a suitable Silicon sealant. These extra precautions are to protect the line from physical road damage, hungry rats. BONUS SUGGESTION: Spray all exposed wired outside the hull (IE under the hull, in the front basket, and for the cables going to the TV) with peppermint oil and water solution. Most wire insulation eating critters (Mostly rats and mice) hate peppermint. It is also useful to spray tires, and jacks to dissuade those critters. I look forward to your and our owners thoughts. Thanks, Geronimo John

Sherry: your suggestion of AI Generators , at $386 each (Amazon.Com) is far less expensive than the Honda 2200 ei. One could buy two, almost three, and it would still cost a lot less than the Honda 2200 does. The competition to the Honda's is heating up nicely. One down side is that the AI's weigh 50 pounds and the Honda is 40 pounds. On the plus side, the two AI's make 4,000 watts of power vsl 2200 for the single Honda....

Jairon: He is using a telescoping ladder with pool noodles attached to protect Ollie. Home Depot and Lowes sell several models. As decked out, I'm about 245 pounds so I really liked the stronger version. It is a TeleSteps Climbing Ladder, Type 1, Model 1600E, OSHA Compliant. When I get up on top of Ollie, I extend it out the full length and it gives me a high hand hold to then slide off the side to the roof. This model collapses down to about 3' and fits very nicely in the front side (Behind the hanging cloths) of the coat closet as you enter Ollie. I cover it in a blanket to protect the fiberglass. Telesteps Climbing Ladder _Type 1_ Model 1600E _OSHA Compliant.docx

Sherry: OMG, I am falling out of my chair laughing at my silly mistake. My apologies I totally miss-read your suggestion. I thought you were spoofing Imelda and you were not. I know some computer artificial intelligence code writers (generators). One works at NSA. So when you suggested getting two ai generators, my mind thought you were saying Imelda should get two Artificial Intelligence code generators and connecting them up with parallel cables to provide the trailer power. It was so funny that I had to pull your chain. I have deleted my OOPs. Forgive me. 🙂

SeaDawg; good suggestion!

Search "Generator" and you'll find about 1500 opinions. Personally I use the Honda EU2200i. Many use the Honda EU200i, some Yamaha's, and recently the Harbor Freight inverter line (Predator's) is gaining acceptance with a bit more power (3,00 to 3,500 watts). Honda have as many believe the best reputation, but they are also expensive. Lots on options and opinions already here on the site.

JD: On your recommendation back i 2018, I purchased the same TPMS. It works really well. One thing that I previously had no idea was occurring is that tire pressure changes A LOT from cold mornings to hot desert crossings at speed. Also, the tires in the shade side can be ten PSI or more lower than those basking in the sun. This info, and bouncing dishes and flying dinette cushions encouraged me to reduce tire pressure from 60 to 50 PSI cold pressure. Don't get quite the MPG, but do believe that it is a better highway tire pressure for wear and impact damage perspectives.. A nice tool to have is a battery powered air compressor. I especially like the DeWalt 20V one.

My Ollie sits for about 8 months in a dark barn with the batteries hooked up to a 1.5 amp battery maintainer. As I don't have a Nature's Head, and I always service the batteries both at the end of the season, and again before my first trip........... I just disconnect the negative battery cable. I'm down to zero phantom electrical loads guaranteed.

This is my $5 solution. Not real high security, but it would sure slow down the bad guys. The three pack costs about $15 at Home Depot. Nice part is that I use the other two on my generator. If I need the third one, it is in "storage" at the propane tanks. 🙂 GJ

With my 2019 F-150 3.5 Ecoboost, SPEED is the major factor in my fuel consumption and costs. So long as on flat land intestate I keep it at 67 MPH (Low turbo boost zone), I get 14 MPG with Ollie in tow, 24 MPG solo. But kick it up to turbo boost zone, and the MPG drops quickly. With the huge power potential of twin turbos feeding basically a NASCAR engine, it will zoom up any interstate grade at any speed I would want to call legal. BUT, the mpg is severely impacted.

@Topgun2 Bill: I see you have the 2017 F-150 set-up very simular to my 2019 F-150 lariat FX4. Did you have to modify the Rock Tamers mounting collar? Any issues with the back-up camera? Thanks, GJ

Attached is a summary that I keep in my trailer. It has much of what is discussed above and may be a handy reference for the future. Timken Bearings and National Seals.docx As is apparent, much of my Oliver bearings and seal info is from John Davies. A great source of information and advice. Thank you John D! Geronimo John

For the less bearing experienced, the "Cup" is the running surface of the bearing housing. Some refer to this replacement surface as the "Bearing Race". They are the same part, and should always be replaced when replacing the bearings. The reason for buying eight seals is that you need to replace the seals at each surface. The Timken bearings will last many many years with good grease and service. The seals generally get damaged in their removal process. They are cheap and saving a few $$ is nothing compared to a seal failure allowing grease into the brakes! I disassemble, clean with brake cleaner, dry and re-grease at the start of each season. But then I am also covering at least 8,000 miles a season. The cheap Dexter bearings IMHO should be trashed at your first or second service depending on your use. For the bearings and seal face, this is the synthetic grease that John Davies recommended, and many of us are using. I also highly recommend it: Red Line 80401 CV-2 Synthetic Grease with Moly (14 Oz Jars) . It is available via Amazon. Some owners use a "bearing grease press" to fill the bearings with grease before installation. I have tried some, and found that I waste a lot of grease with them. So, like many older salts, we just use the palm of our hand and a dollop of grease, kneading the bearing into the grease from both sides. This works very well, saves grease, and gives you the satisfaction of KNOWING that your new bearings are well lubricated. From Dexter, here is the Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement process: Finally, having a pile of rags and a trash bag handy is really helpful. Good luck and safe travels, Geronimo John

Jairon: I have been using Summit Racing for years, and also using Motion Ind. for bearings. I had not thought of Summit for the Timken Bearings. THANK YOU! GJ

PERFECT. Thank you!

@Frank 😄 I note you Rock Tamers are on a Ford Super Duty and are mounted such that the arms are up (Increasing clearance of the flaps from the ground. Since a Super Duty sits "Taller in the Saddle" than my 2019 F-150, I am concerned that the Rock Tamers would be dragging the ground. Your thoughts? Thanks GJ

I reversed the bolt that had no splines left on the mounting tab. As bhncb states it is a lot easier to inspect. However if your mounting tabs have the factory splines, then I recommend you not swap the bolt direction.

@ JD: We think alike. I carry the Ruger SP-101 for hiking, but modified it to have larger grips. For larger targets is the Winchester Defender (Pump) 12 GA Magnum. If needed, I have an Utah permit as well. That said, this is a bit off topic.....

I do as well. Having the ability of turning on the rear view camera during the day is handy as well. It has answered my question of "What is that idiot doing behind me". Just turning on the trailer lights give him/her a warning as well. More than once it was a 47 HP VW Bug drafting behind Ollie.