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I keep mine protected in the box the antifreeze kit came in. This gets stored in whichever compartment I think I might remember when it's needed.

Maybe someone else that purchased this option will comment on where the filter was located. Definitely open a service ticket.

Oliver should have also provided you with the original filter they remove when the Antifreeze kit was installed. It's in the kit installation instructions to retain the original filter for use when decalcifying the unit.

Mike might be onto something here. Take a real close look at the joint I've circled in the picture. The vertical separator piece is notched to provide relief for the frame. It looks like this joint may not be put together correctly and the separator is pushing the frame channel apart. If so, open a service ticket and include a close up shot of this area.

Oliver uses a DPDT switch here but only one of the poles is utilized. Therefore, use the three inline terminals on either side/pole of the switch. You could look for use-marks on the switch terminals to determine which pole the wires were on originally. Two of three wires (travelers) should be the same color. The third, different color, wire comes from the fuse. Connect the fuse wire to the middle or common terminal and the other two to either of the end terminals, doesn't matter which.

How long has it been since your Aquago was decalcified?

Au contraire. On later models with the ITC Fontana The shower handle has a total shutoff. If both faucets are open with the handle shut off, water will flow from one supply to the other through the mixing valve.

If you don't have the front shore power inlet, curbside on the propane enclosure, there won't be a transfer switch. This sounds like your situation. Many possibilities for a cause here. As long as it's working now, periodically check the shore power connections with your hand at inlet and pedestal ends for unusually warm temperature signally a loose/corroded or otherwise poor connection. As long as power is getting to the EMS, the remote display should light up. Even if the (buzzing) relay in the EMS were to fail in a manner that prevented power from getting through to the main panel, this in and of itself would not cause the remote display to go dark.

Possibly, but I suspect the transfer switch is not providing power to the EMS. Both devices are possible sources of buzzing but this is not necessarily the sign of a pending failure. Transfer switches have been much more failure prone than the EMS.

Sorry. Should have occurred to me that you may have the standard layout. I should have said rear seat of front dinette.

Rear dinette seat

Your problem is most likely with the transfer switch. Disconnect from shore power and power down the inverter. The switch is on top of the wheel well under the rear dinette seat access panel. Unsnap and remove the cover on top of the switch and take a look inside for burnt wiring.

For the Shurflo Revolution 4008 water pump, Pentair specifies a maximum inlet pressure of 30 psi. The video procedure should include mention of using a pressure regulator but a safer approach to flushing the pump might be to isolate it from the tank and use fresh water drawn from a jug at the rear inlet.

I. think this is a bit of a leap. Truma is likely looking out for their OEM customers, not wishing to bite the hand that feeds them. Also, if anyone took advantage of the "free install" coupon for the Aventa, I'm sure Truma will honor this coupon and the installation until 3/31/2023 as stipulated. Regarding Varioheat retros, since these furnaces require specific ducting, replacing original factory installed ducts for an Atwood/Dometic or Suburban would be quite labor intensive. I can understand why Truma would only want to make these furnaces available to OEMs for original installations. Besides, there is yet to be any conclusive performance evaluation of the Varioheat in an LEii . I'm anxiously waiting to hear how they perform in sub-freezing temperatures for extended periods. The specs tell me they're undersized.

Or, keep using the old working regulator and carry a new one as backup.

Just stick with the same length and style in a quality brand hose. The e-trailer cheaper MB Sturgis hose is made by MB Sturgis, not just a repackage like the JR and Camco. Hoses with the stainless steel overbraid won't do anything for you in a protected tank enclosure except cost more money.

Yep. There is no need to switch regulator back to the just refilled tank. Whichever tank the regulator lever points to is/becomes the primary tank.

It's not necessary to replace the 2" Bulldog with a 2-5/16 even if you opt in on the Andersen.

On the other hand: "German engineering quality" and "German reliability" are questionable. Over engineering and high build quality don't ensure reliability. I've owned a few..... Common control integration, is aka potential single point of failure. Truma protectionist service and parts distribution ensures extended down times and higher repair costs, when the time comes. No Aventa heating capability is potential deal breaker to complete showstopper. What's going on with this no soft starter policy? Don't they understand their target market? Recouping higher initial costs depends on the lifecycle of the equipment and the purchaser's perceived value. These could turn into negatives. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just offering a different perspective (opinion). All things considered, for some RVers, the Truma solutions may be a better choice when compared to the alternatives. Their appliance performance may be notable, but be aware of the negatives.

I too would like to hear some opinions from anyone who has had the replacement done by Truma. Looking at the Oliver website photos of a 2023 LEII with the Aventa, the unit appears to be noticeably higher than the Penguin II. Maybe just an illusion but it would be nice to know if the height of the LEII has increased. There is an article in the latest TruckCamper magazine about the 2023 Lance campers and how they are going all in with a 100% Truma solution. Near the end, when they talk about the Aventa, they specifically address the power requirements vis a vis generator size. Lance is quoted as to how the A/C operates fine with the 2500 watt onboard generator but that they had to implement an EasyStart for it to be reliable using the 2200 watt Honda portable. Interesting concluding. comment was how they "are working with Truma" for a resolution. Since Lance is one of Truma's largest OEM partnerships, I interpret this to mean that Truma knows there is a shortcoming with the Aventa and will most likely have to either approve EasyStart installations or offer one of some flavor as their own option. I'd be looking for more info on the subject from Truma, and/or Oliver, before I jumped in. I won't be though. because my Houghton 3400 is working fab.

Before you go if it's not too late, I have a few comments and suggestions on things to try or at least narrow things down some. 1. Regarding the furnace fuse: This same 12 volt circuit powers the thermostat, directly from inside the furnace. If the thermostat display is lite up and functional, you've eliminated the fuse as a possible source of a problem. 2. Voltage: The furnace is designed to be functional when voltage is above a minimum of 9.5 volts. Based on your reported battery voltages, this isn't the issue and you should get some sign of life if the thermostat is calling for heat. 3. When everything is functioning normally, the first thing you should hear when the thermostat calls for heat is the furnace blower coming on, even if there is no gas getting to the furnace. Gas supply isn't in the equation, yet. If the blower doesn't come on, the list of causes isn't long but is somewhat dependent on the specific version furnace you have. There are basically two generations of internal controls for the Suburban model installed in early LEIIs. I'm not sure which one was being used in 2016, but the following suggestions should generally apply to either. Turn on the thermostat and set it to Furnace mode with a Set Temperature somewhat above the current temperature inside the trailer. With your ear close to the open front air outlet on the A/C overhead, turn the thermostat off and on slowly a few times and listen for a slight click sound each time. This click sound will tell you if an attempt is being made to send the thermostat request for heat to the furnace. Note that this instruction more specifically apply to the CCC2 model thermostat I believe your trailer has. (round display with discrete buttons on the left). If it is a square CT model, you may need a second person to adjust this procedure for the fiddly touch control, one to listen while the other operates. If the clicking isn't audible each time skip the rest of this paragraph. Otherwise, your next step will be at the furnace under the curbside bunk. Leave the thermostat On and set as before. Using a shoe or similar "tool", smack the top side corner edges of the furnace case a few times. (The term "smack"' is the technical description for and implies an abrupt force somewhere between a gentle tap and brutal pounding) The object here is to vibrate free a potentially stuck relay or switch dependent on the generation of furnace control. If the steps above don't get positive results, you're going to need that help for some more in depth analysis and repair. If the furnace does come to life during one of the above steps however, you may still require some help to replace either: 1. The thermostat controller in the A/C overhead. 2. The furnace blower motor time-delay relay, or air flow sail switch, again depending on which control the furnace has. Good luck.

Beyond all the other weight ratings, truck mfgs specify a maximum Cargo Weight Rating for the bed area and a Center of Gravity range for load placement. When both are observed, overhang is accounted for. What they don't specified is a maximum trailer tongue load hanging off an unknown length hitch extension. Suspect neither RAM nor Ford would warranty either of these two failures. Always load your beer and ammo as far forward of the rear axle as possible.

Assuming all the cable connections are in there original positions relative to one another, the battery on the left needs to be turned around.

Looks to me like two 6 volts wired in parallel with no positive load connection.

What group size battery? What is most important, price, brand quality, warranty, or.....? You're generally better off purchasing batteries. from a local source if all your criteria can be met. For an online seller of top of the line Lifeline batteries however, I'd recommend Fisheries Supply in Seattle.