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Won't you also see the Smart Shunt as a third component? Are you sure they aren't just using the Dumb Shunt that comes with the BVM 712?

The 0.2 Ah is the charging rate of the solar controller in float mode, not a state of charge indication. In order to preliminarily test if battery charge is holding, during the day, you need to cover your solar panels with a blanket to darken them so the controller/display is completely off. Then, along with being disconnected from AC shore power, trip the main DC circuit breaker to remove all loads. At the end of your test period, reset the DC breaker in order to read battery voltage on the SeeLevel monitor. They should be 12.9-12.8 volts. Even so, based on age and stress from depth of discharge, they will likely fail a load test.

For planning, figure on 600# tongue weight for an LEII. Check the Titan owners manual for WD hitch requirements. I wouldn’t use the Andersen unless WD is required.

I couldn't remember seeing if yours had the early or late style. Their were some later LEIIs built that had the enlarged indentation but with the small vent. I remember being concerned about this issue when I ordered my 2018, which were still Dometics at the time.

Have you considered enlarging the lower vent. This should be an easy job with a big payoff..

FYI There are two sizes of these connectors. The 221-41x top out at 12 gauge. You'll need the 221-61x 10 gauge for the transfer switch.

This is not a difficult job especially with the newer style wire connections. Your only real issue is going to be that cable between the switch and EMS, the one with the burnt white wire. If there isn’t enough extra slack to be able to cut back the damaged wire, a new section of cable will be required. At this point, electrician level skills will be necessary. I’d recommend an rv service first, mobile if possible. A residential electrician can't be as flexible when it comes to small jobs and might not be willing to tackle something out of their norm. Maybe you have a knowledgeable RVer close by?

I would call Progressive Dynamics support and forward your pictures to them. They have improved the way the wires interconnect, ie from using the terminal strip to individual Wago lever connectors. Maybe they’ll give you some satisfaction on a replacement. Also open a service ticket with oliver service. Yours is not the first occurrence of this issue and they need to be kept aware. They may also provide guidance regarding replacement of the switch.

There is an automatic transfer switch that selects which outside power inlet gets directed to the EMS input. It should be a black lunchbox mounted in the same general area as the EMS and power distribution panel. There will be one cable coming in it from each of the two inlets and a third connecting it to the EMS. I would suggest removing the top cover and having a look at the wiring inside. Start troubleshooting from this point before assuming the problem is with the EMS.

Hummm... maybe I should install my windows upside down. With the weep holes at the top, they'll be less likely to get plugged up.

Correct. The relay just replaces the furnace control function of the thermostat control module in the Dometic AC. The blue and blue/white voltage wires to/from the furnace go to the relay contact terminals. I rewired the green and yellow conductors in the thermostat cable to route ground to the replacement thermostat and back to the relay trigger input. The red conductor is unused. (Mine only had the three) Except for connecting the new thermostat, all rewiring is done overhead and straightforward. This may not be the cheapest solution but, considering the labor rate for a tech to pull new wires, it might be. Another possible issue “could be” the thermostat contact rating. In order to direct wire it to the furnace, the minimum rating would have to be 7.5 amps @ 12 volts DC. (I’m assuming this is an LEII furnace) It might be hard to determine for residential thermostats but your tech needs to verify this rating.

Doubling up, aka running parallel conductors, is conditionally permitted only to reduce voltage drop in a circuit. It cannot be done for the purpose of increasing current carrying capacity of the wiring. There is also an issue with the type of wire not being rated for a primary circuit. I don’t believe you’ll find any certified RV tech that would install the thermostat this way. I used a solidstate latching relay when I replaced my thermostat. It has the option for a ground level input trigger and only two conductors in the original thermostat cable are required. Try suggesting this method to your tech as an alternative to rewiring.

Good job Imelda. Sorry I missed your earlier question about vinegar vs CLR but looks like you figured it out. I've never used CLR because white vinegar is always on hand and it works. It's also a lot cheaper with no worries about damaging seals.

Wish I could erase 60. Years that is.

Not sure I'm interpreting the question correctly but: Isn't what's being described just a 12 volt charge connection, in parallel with the 7-way aux circuit? No need for the additional solar charge controller but, with the right B2B charger, it could be more effective than the 7-way connection.

Yes as long as it a metric tire.

An internet search will return a number of sources for "water hardness test strips". I use the On the Go standard portable softener (portablewatersoftener.com) and usually just buy the test strips from them. Cost is a bit more but easy to just add them on to make a larger accessory order. They also have a stainless hanger bracket for the softener that I rigged to hang off the rear bumper behind the water inlets.

There isn't anything else inside the vanity that can't be cleared with vinegar. The only reason to go inside would be to replace the faucet or extension hose. Have you observed how the waters flows from the hose with the shower head removed? Since the toilet fill is okay, and the supply connection for it is (or used to be) just before the end of line where the shower faucet connects, your problem most certainly is with the faucet. Then, since both hot and cold are affected, the restriction must be between the mixing valve and shower head. Wherever it turns out to be, use 100% vinegar and soak for a longer time. Two things I always check before hooking up are electrics and water hardness. West of the Mississippi, there has only been one campground where I didn't use my water softener.

225*.75*2/25.4+16= 29.28.... =

Consider having it installed on the battery connection side of the controller where it'll be more useful. Under the bunk near the circuit breaker is the most logical location. Instead of a switch though, I just replaced the original 40 amp Shortstop with a switchable breaker like the 60 amp one used for the main DC disconnect.

Perhaps Oliver should provide a Lithionics battery power off sequence that includes following individual manufacturers instructions for properly powering up and down the various DC appliances. Had the AquaGo been powered down prior to turning the batteries off and on, it would have powered up without issue.

Like this?

Could that have been 12 V as in volts? Did it stop flashing after awhile? The Zamp controller isn't the most elegant piece when it first starts to wake up at sunrise. Mine often makes squealing noises to accompany the flashing display but I've learned to just rollover and go back to sleep until the sun is up.

If yours is a later model with a 40 amp switchable circuit breaker under the streetside bunk access, reset this first and recheck for the error. Beyond this, the next step in troubleshooting would be to trace the wiring looking for a faulty connection at a wire terminal. These can occur at the battery, circuit breaker, or rear of the controller.

Great review! I use a 15K Airtug to move mine around and lack of traction on any degree of grade is the main problem, particularly when backing up. Power is never an issue but just pushing the trailer up over the 1" curb from apron to garage slab requires a running start. Add in much of a turning angle and tire scrub forces greatly exacerbate the problem.160 pounds of kitty litter ballast in the tongue basket and lowering tug tire pressures helps some, but I'm convinced a front mount TV hitch is a much cheaper, safer, and manageable solution, for those who can use one.