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bhncb

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Everything posted by bhncb

  1. I don't believe this was a hijack so much as a lack of understanding of the problem originally presented. Complicated issues sometime take a lot of sorting through to determine what might be actually going on and it's easy to get sidetracked by focusing on specific wording of a symptom. There have been a number of key points presented for both issues. It's easy for me to sift these out and follow the thread(s) because of my understanding of the systems involved, but I was hoping to point out that there are in fact two separate discussions going on and thereby avoid confusion going forward. Bill and Nancy's most recent reply at 1:30 on Thursday must have come in as I was typing my comment but this post does a lot to re-rail things for those that have been trying to follow the thread.
  2. This thread needs to be split in two because the original problem/post introduced by Bill and Nancy diverged with the post by Doug Grove on the 28th. B&N is working on what is likely to be an electrical problem between the furnace and thermostat where as DG has introduced an issue that is appears more similar to a typical short cycle condition. There has been quite a bit of valuable information provided by relevant replies to both issues but it seems some really valuable information is getting. lost due to the confusion.
  3. You may be ruling out a return air obstruction but there is still the supply side that is more likely to be a problem with these installations. Since the LEII duct restriction is right at the minimums for proper furnace operation, be sure the dampers in all the warm air outlets are fully open. Better yet would be to totally remove the the damper disks from at least two of the three outlets. A significant air flow imbalance could cause the sail switch to flutter, intermittently shutting down the burner and re-sequencing the operation.
  4. This sounds like you're attempting to change the differential setting with the thermostat mode set to something other than OFF. The thermostat controller in the overhead has no interaction with the differential setting but it may be getting confused by the procedure to change it.
  5. Before attempting to stop the leak on your own, I would advise exhausting all attempts at getting the warranters to fulfill their obligations. By documenting the leak with your detector, you've already proven the fault is either with Trauma or Oliver's installation. Let them sort it out among themselves and recommend the appropriate course of action. Most flair connection leaks are due to either over torquing, improper flair fabrication, or a damaged fitting. If you do get involved, first disassemble the connection and inspect the tubing flair for uniformity and if it had been seated squarely on the mating fitting. Then, use a magnifying glass to inspect the fitting surface for any defect that could cause a leak. Hairline scratches and minute dinges are notorious for this. When reassembling, backup the furnace fitting and torque the flair nut to whatever specification Truma provides, corrected for your crow foot adapter. Then, back it off a quarter turn and torque it again.
  6. Does the app provide a fault history that will tell you what caused the abnormal shutdown? It should.
  7. According. to the 2021 owner's manual, the fuse for the toilet is supposed to be a 2 amp slow-blow. Since it's located in the same general area under the streetside bunk as the 1 amp blade fuse for the LP/Co2 detector, be sure you've got the correct one. The slow-blow for the toilet will likely be a glass tube style with a a green wire whereas the 1 amp for the detector is a blade style with a blue wire. The difference style fuse holders should be quite obvious.
  8. Didn't Oliver switch back to installing Suburban furnaces with the 2020 models?
  9. Are you not anticipating having an electrical service panel in the new structure? Seems to me the expense to add rooftop solar that will only serve to charge the ollie batteries could be better spent. Who knows, you might even wish to add an HVAC system in the future.
  10. "Pivoting" a heavy multi-axle trailer on pavement with a mover is nearly impossible because trailer tire drag will overwhelm the mover's traction ability. Unless your flat area is large enough to make multiple gradual turns, you're going to need a much more involved solution than the Trailer Valet. Do not consider any mover lacking the capability to control and temporality lock the trailer brakes.
  11. I think you should open up the bath vanity and check to see if the duct is even connected. Seems to me there's a possibility that the excess was never routed through the vanity and just left laying loose under the shower pan. You can also take a flashlight and look through the bath vent to see if the duct is connected to it, but the issue will ultimately have to be addressed from inside the vanity. There isn't any access to that duct section from under the curbside bunk.
  12. THere are a few things you can do to address this problem. On the mount assembly: 1. The hinge bolt should be just tight enough to hold the TV in any position and require some force to change the angle. 2. The gold anodized latching bar should likewise be tight enough that it doesn't spin freely, but not so tight that it can't be turned with two fingers. 3. When pushing the TV up to the stored position, conclude with a downward pull to fully seat the latch. Lastly, for insurance, find some foam packing material or pool noodles and cut some pieces to wedge between the TV back and overhead cabinet. These will keep the latch under tension and cushion any TV wobble.
  13. You'll need low profile model 311 or 321 for the LEII. This standard height one will be pretty uncomfortable to use.
  14. Make up a slurry using Zudd cleanser and white vinegar. Brush it on the affected areas with a soft brush and let it work until the rust stains disappear. Wipe off the residue, rinse with isopropyl rubbing alcohol , and blowdry with a hairdryer. Touch up the ends with this product.
  15. Two check valves and initially a shutoff valve. Someone wanted to be absolutely sure? More likely just a case of not really understanding what was what. At least they eventually eliminated the shutoff valve. The hookup kit for the No-Fuss flusher doesn't include much more than a garden hose inlet fitting and connection hose fittings. Valterra must figure the integrated check valve is enough to satisfy RVIA requirements.
  16. The Aluminum wheel alloy (356) and steel inserts are so close on the galvanic series that a potential for corrosion is more than offset by the clamping force advantage the inserts provide. Personally, I wouldn't run an alloy wheel on a trailer that did not have steel inserts.😃
  17. I suspect the initial model years were pretty much one-offs, as construction materials and techniques evolved. That massive aluminum framework in the picture is certainly impressive. Oliver likely used encapsulated plywood for the basement floor because of its superior strength. Ultimately, the virtues of expand PVC became too hard to ignore. What a great clean-slate-start to a uniquely personal LEII this one can be.
  18. Interesting. I didn't think the Sumec name had hit the shores yet in 2018. Different companies but the wheels could very well come out of the same plant in China. HiSpec just says plants in Indiana and Asia. Sumec is based in China and open about it.
  19. I thought GJ was referring to those pockets between the studs. Those look to provide some release or isolation for the nevrlube hub.
  20. A few thoughts relative to your questions: The anti-freeze kit is powered by the trailer batteries and draws about 5 amps continuous. This kit is not much value in an unheated travel trailer because it only protects the water heater internals and requires that the water system to be full and purged of air. If the heater could be totally isolated from the rest of the water system you could use it but In the Oliver implementations, this is not possible. Simply bypassing it won't work unless the rest of the system is pressurized, subjecting it to freeze ups. Never travel with your water pump on. If travel temperatures aren't much below freezing I just open all the faucet to relieve pressure, drain and vent all the exterior hose inlets and exterior shower pull-out hose. Stop often and check inside temps. Fire up the furnace if need be. Prolonged travel in the 20s requires full winterizing including draining the Truma, which is almost as easy as using the anti-freeze kit. 9 degrees at night is no problem as long as you can keep the bilge warm. Leaving the furnace thermostat set warmer than you might otherwise like for sleeping and try to direct warn air below where possible. Crack a fan lid for comfort if needed.
  21. Seems like the emergency valve version of these would have been ideal in this situation. I haven't tried them but carrying a couple might be good insurance.
  22. If a power surge is strong enough, the protection module with the MOVs will be destroyed and the EMS will display an error code 10. At this point you'll need to replace the MOV protection module, which isn't difficult or expensive. I'm not sure if this can be done in the field with a pedestal protector. These may need to be sent it in or replaced completely.
  23. If I'd known the LEII tank would only hold 14.75 gallons, I might not have considered it.
  24. Any heat gun hotter than a hair dry will definitely damage the gelcoat. Be very careful using this method. Better to use a solvent, pressure, and patients.
  25. Each stick-on segment is 1/4 ounce so the sum of the seven I can see is is not an inordinate amount to add as long as it is directly opposite the valve stem. If there is also a nearly equal amount of clip-on weight on the inner lip of the wheel adjacent to these, or no weight at all, I’d be suspicious and start investigating. About the picture: Looking just above the tire sidewall, has the rim really been that scared up or is it just dirt?
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