bhncb

OTT must have upgraded to fuses since earlier models. Look at fuse 11 (Blue 15 Amp) in the attic panel. It is labeled "Lights" in my 2018 and is the only 15 Amp fuse in this panel.

Check the butt splice connections between the fixture pigtails and trailer wiring.

Did you try unplugging the remote cable at the inverter end and then holding the inverter power button in?

Mission accomplished. That wire is for an unused feature and should have at least been taped and tied up out of the way. In your picture, that switch on the back of the remote must be in the disabled (down) position. It appears to be but flip it up/down to be sure. Will the inverter power on with the power button on the inverter control panel? It has to be pushed in for a second or two. Other than that, try disconnecting and reconnecting both ends of the remote cable.

Flip off the circuit breaker labeled CHARGER (#5 far right on mine). Then set the refrigerator mode to GAS using the front control panel button. Your solar will more than keep up with the DC draw by the ignitor and control circuit. The microwave will draw a minuscule amount for the control/display so you could unplug it in from the outlet in the cabinet above if you're really serious.

As long as it can get a solid grip on the fastener (reviews are negative), it probably wouldn’t affect the torque reading. The biggest issues are: Since it is a 3/8” drive, the maximum torque it can handle is likely far below what would be useable. Certainly not in the 80-120 Ft Lb. range. Because of this limitation, the only fasteners it might be capable of are the spring shackle nuts. But you’ll need a 3/8”-1/2” square drive adapter to use it with your torque wrench. Since the maximum size fastener is 3/4”, you’re still going to need some larger sockets anyway. Bottom line is save your money.

Forgot to include the axle u-bolts. Use the same 3/4" deep socket as for the lug nuts. Dexter says 70 ft lb.

Don: Here’s a list of what you’ll need for each fastener. The coupler, spring shackles, and EZ-Flex pivot will require two wrenches. A socket on the torque wrench for the nuts, and some other type to apply opposing torque to the bolt heads so they don’t rotate. This is critical for tightening the shackles and EZ-Flex pivot. I’d recommend standard chrome (non-impact) 6 point sockets as specified for each fastener. Bulldog Coupler: 3/4” socket and a 3/4” combination wrench. OTT says 80 ft lb. Lug nuts: 3/4” DEEP socket with a short (3-6”) extension. Dexter says 90-120 ft lb. Spring shackles: 11/16” socket for nuts. Use a 13/16” socket with a breaker bar close to the same length as your torque wrench to hold the heads. You may need a deep socket to clear the grease fitting. Dexter says 30-50 ft lb. EZ-FLEX center pivot (assumes at least one wheel removed): 7/8” socket with the short extension for the nut. The same 13/16” wrench you used for the shackles to hold the bolt head. Dexter says 65-75 ft lb. The chain hardware, auto, big box home, or farm supply stores all carry decent quality tools at competitive prices.

This topic peaked my interest so I just looked closely at the rear window on my summer 2018 build. If I took a picture, it would look exactly like the one in George's original post. It's pretty obvious that the frame is out of square because the hinged escape insert makes no contact with the bottom plastic guide on the curb side but must be forced onto the street side guide. Likewise, my insert is slightly off-center to the street side. I haven't noticed any leak but further investigation of the whole assembly is pending...

I took delivery this past August and had the exact same curbside light problem as Overland. I never saw water inside the trailer but, when I arrived a my destination after driving the last four hours in the rain, both porch lights were so dim I had to turn them off and on a couple of times to see if they were even working. The attaching screws on the rear light had been sealed but the wire penetration had been over looked. I assumed water had gotten in and shorted the wiring somewhere because the lights worked again after a dry day. An actual water leak was the vent fan in the bath. One of the two hood screws wasn't/couldn't be tighten down all the way due to a mfg. defect in the fan assembly. Also, the foam seal was deformed and only partially effective but the leak was definitely coming from the screw because it only occurred when the trailer was stationary. These were both relatively minor issues I took care of myself.

Thanks for the offer Mike. Suffice to say that my frustrations are due to a magnitude of issues that are the end result of ineffective quality control. During my initial period of ownership, not including unresolved issues noted during the delivery walk around, I experienced multiple electrical failures due to poor workmanship, supplier trim/component fit and function problems due to poor quality components that should never have made it past incoming inspection, design or assembly mistakes that should have been obvious during final, a rainwater leak, and now a simple, but costly to fix, suspension failure that is the direct result of QA failures at every stage. Fortunately, I am proficient at most every level and have corrected a lot of the problems myself, by choice, and often at my own expense for some materials not available directly from OTT. Unfortunately, the suspension issue will require facilities not readily available to me and some significant expense for outside rework. The trailer will go back to Hohenwald for this one, subject to their pending response. This is my first TT. Were it not for Oliver, I would forever be in the "Still Looking" category. I love my LE II but the experience thus far has been a major disappointment and now has thrown a huge monkey wrench in my winter plans.

Just as I have been searching for words to express the level of frustration with my 2018 LE II , I stumble onto this seemly timeless post by Overland. It's sad that a year later, nothing has changed. At least now I won't have to lie awake at night wondering if the trailer in my garage is in fact the Oliver designated on my title, and not some lesser knockoff.

Unless the earlier models are different than the 2018s, there are already two vents. The black tank vent also serves the bathroom sink and shower drains, and functions independent of the gray drain slide valve. The gray tank vent is off the sink drain just as it turns down to the tank. It is located inside the galley cabinet in the extreme upper right rear corner as you're facing the galley. The fact that it vents inside the trailer is probably another topic for discussion, but most likely it is the source of gray tank odors rather than from the drain opening itself. I'd recommend checking this vent to be sure it is not blocked.

You're on the right track (so to speak). Get two 250 pounders to sit on your tailgate. Then set your ball height as close to 23.5" as possible, but not less than. The 23.5" has been measured with the trailer frame level, which is the ideal for towing.

Not sure what that tread size is but I've used McGard outboard motor locks for similar applications. You might be able to use one as either a jam, or replacement for the hand nut. There are a number of tread options: https://shop.mcgard.com/products/marine/outboard-motor-locks