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Try swapping the zerk fitting with one of the others that will accept grease. Which bolt position is the problem and you're trying to remove?

Meow, meow. Meow meow meow. Purrrrrrr. 😽

Not sure when in the production sequence it occurred but my later 2018 with Zamp controller did not have a disconnect of any kind on either side.

First, I stand corrected. The Fairview regulators operate as described, which may explain why the BTU capacity is reduced once an auto changeover occurs and why the lever must be pointed toward the active tank before the opposite one can be disconnected. If the lever has to be manually switched to regain full BTU capability, and shut off backflow to the other port, it seems to me the Fairview regulator is more semi-automatic in operation. The BTU reduction could explain some of the reported propane delivery problems at low temperature and/or high altitude. I routinely experience both and never had a problem prior to replacing my original Fairview. But then, I generally start looking for a refill before an auto changeover happens. It's somewhat moot now but in response to Trainman's question: Generally the lever would be moved after the reserve tank is opened. The sequence may not matter but the regulator relies on pressure differential in determining when to switchover. A sudden surge from opening the tank valve may fool it, causing an unnecessary and undesirable switchover.

At initial hook up, whichever regulator input is pressurized first becomes the "active" side. Then, when the selector is moved to the center (auto) position, the other input becomes the "reserve" side. When pressure on the active side tank drops to a predetermined level, the auto changeover valve will switch to the reserve side tank. Whenever one of the tanks is removed for refilling, the selector should first be moved from auto to the tank that will remain in use. After the refilled tank is put back in service, it will become the reserve once the selector lever is moved back to the auto position.

MC4 connectors are typically used to interconnect PV panels and an unregulated charge controller input. The ZAMP proprietary SAE connects directly to the battery bank. If it were "converted" to MC4, it would be possible to connect the PV array directly to the batteries without a controller. The unregulated higher voltage of the array would "fry" the batteries.

Do not hold the power switch in until the display lights up. The switch latches "in" when released and the contacts may bounce during the process. This could produce a false "off" signal to the micro-processor aborting the startup sequence. Just push in and release. It takes some seconds before you'll get the initial check indication.

That number is not the actual payload of the vehicle because it factors in reduced load capacity of the tires when under-inflated up to 25% below the specified value, or the point at which the TPMS system will alarm. In other words, 937 lbs has been determined to be the maximum safe additional load with the tire inflation 25% less than the value specified on the label. There have been a number of different weight specs published for this vehicle but none I've found result in a payload rating that low. I'd suggest finding the GVWR number listed on the vehicle information label and having your vehicle weighed to determine its actual curb weight. The difference between these two numbers will give you a better idea if the GLE can be an adequate choice for towing. I suspect you'll find the actual payload is around 1300 lbs.

I second this recommendation. I also follow up with their Mildew Stain Blocker. http://www.starbrite.com/item/mildew-stain-blocker-with-nano-tech-barrier

I just carry a couple of 1/2" quick links for this purpose. They're strong enough and also fit the safety chains hooks and hitch loops better.

Ditto this. I have discovered that raising the connected coupler above normal connection level will unseat the ball wedge making the triangle plate easy to turn by hand when reconnecting.

Styling changes don't come readily to Toyota products. I, as most, drive them in spite of their Toyota-signature styling. The more important attraction is the long road ahead with no CELs visible. Rather than concentrating on appearance changes, my hope would be for a payload that is more insync with the tow rating.

Be sure whoever you choose for the installation understands the issue of retaining thermostat control for the LP furnace. Advanced RV is careful to point out that their retrofit cost does not include additionals for this when replacing a Penguin II. Quotes must include specific consideration for this issue.

The outside height dimension of the AC3400 shipping carton is only 10".

I still think this is caused by air pressure from the forward facing drain hole. My interim solution is a pair of the ever popular RV magnetic catches. Fit perfectly.

It also keeps negative pressure in the gray tank from drawing on the galley sink trap when the shower backflow valve is closed. You might be able to get along without it if you also replace the sink trap with a sanitary waste valve but space is limited and then there would be no vent for the tank at all when traveling. Most AAVs are serviceable. Have you checked to see if the top will unscrew 1/4 turn? Then you can disassemble and clean the innerards. It's Probably fouled with fiberglass dust.

I believe, if you asked a vehicle mfg for a calculation, you'd be closer using the LE exterior width (6' 6") and height minus the A/C unit. (9' minus 12" maybe?). As long as a surface opposes air flow, whether angled or curved doesn't factor into a frontal area equation. Of course we know it will have an effect, but perhaps some allowance in the mfg specification has been made, for simplicity sake. Think like an engineer designing something for the "ignorant consumer"

Ford defines it thusly: "Frontal Area is the total area in square feet that a moving vehicle and trailer exposes to air resistance." It doesn't require an aerodynamic drag calculation. Just add to the published tow vehicle height and width, any additional for the trailer that extends beyond the tow vehicle.

One thing you have to consider is the maximum frontal area of the trailer. The Cherokees are limited to less than 40 square feet which pretty much restricts them to towing boats, popup campers, or maybe a larger teardrop. Assuming the numbers you provide for the Jeep are from the vehicle information label on the drivers door jamb and/or the owner's manual, your actual maximum payload is 1250# (5500 gvwr minus 4250 curb weight). Whenever you'll be loading close to the GVWR, it is best to first verify your true curb weight at a public scale, then add the weight of your anticipated passenger and equipment load to determine a best-estimate for tow vehicle weight, before adding the trailer tongue load. The difference between this estimate and the maximum GVWR can be used to determine the maximum tongue/trailer weights. If a Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) for your vehicle is available, it is often best to use this number to determine the actual maximum trailer weight. Manufactures often toute high tow weight ratings that, when combined with the GVWR, far exceed the GCWR. This means the tow vehicle is safe to tow the advertised trailer weight only with minimal payload. Again, in cases where anticipated loading will be near the GVWR, you may find your maximum trailer weight will be far less than the advertised tow rating.

The switches themselves are the same as used elsewhere in the trailer and are not waterproof. An optional splash-proof boot is used on the bath switches. On my 2018, Oliver used ZF/Cherry RR and SR series switches , part numbers: RRA32H3FBBNN (DPST for light) and SRJ23A3BBBNN (SPDT for water pump 3-way). The optional boot is p/n 00150751. For later model trailers, I'd recommend pulling one of the more accessible switches by the door and verifying mfg and numbers. It might be easiest to just source them from Oliver but Digikey stocks them I believe.

That one will work just throw away the adapter fitting. Assuming you want something quick that will plug and play, this is it. https://www.amazon.com/Camp-Chef-Connection-quick-connect/dp/B000H87M9M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsZKJBhC0ARIsAJ96n3WmYHqqcJVdu8KKvVgoWaS3YVvkSYGMrTlvEK0hIlXF2WKMzdhDymcaAl6pEALw_wcB&hvadid=178108217435&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9008389&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2636583558513346609&hvtargid=kwd-5204400155&hydadcr=9413_9900329&keywords=camp+chef+rv+connection+hose&qid=1629834150&sr=8-3 If you can wait longer the following will give you some additional length options. https://www.caloreequipment.com/products/rv-quick-connect-lp-grill-hose/

What you tow is not nearly as significant as understanding the additional responsibilities you're taking on when towing.

Also, CAT Scale has a couple of nice apps. Check out: "Weigh My Truck" and/or "CAT Scale". The latter app is newest and has a subfunction link to the the former. These really make the weighing process easy.

To the extent that all standard RV door latches are nearly identical in design, and probably produced by the same overseas manufacturer, yes it could also apply to Olivers. I don't believe however that the problem is as pervasive as this video would have you believe. Like so much online content, this article strikes me as nothing more than click-bait for a commercial sponsors product. It is interesting to see how nearly identical the Latch.It touch pad featured in the video is to the RVLock product on my LEII. It is my understanding that on latches where there are two key tumblers, the one for the strike latch handle has a master key capability which enables dealers to use one key for any unique tumbler combination. The supposed fantasy being that availability of these master keys is tightly controlled. The second tumbler that controls the dead bolt is not master key capable and will respond only to the unique key code that matches the tumbler combination. In the case of the RVLock products, there are 50 some unique key codes so someone would either need all 50+ keys or some luck that one from a smaller selection would be the correct one. For Olivers, I would be more concerned about the keyed draw latches on the baggage and battery compartment doors. On the other hand, a "key" for these is never further than my tool box.

The "panel" is glued in place. The switches can be pushed out individually from the back, accessible through the round deck plate in upper cabinet.