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Nothing to change when switching to AGMs. The PD only has a single charging profile for lead acid batteries. Your 2019 may not have the updated converter with the Li mode switch. The only way to tell is to pull the front off and look at the circuit board.

Replace the batteries. One bad one will drag down the other. Since you’re reading 12.6 V when plugged into shore power, the converter is outputting and likely okay. Also, it doesn’t click when turning on or off. Maybe you’re thinking about the transfer switch?

If there is an HDMI cable between the Visio TV and Furrion stereo, and it is plugged into the port on the TV that supports ARC, you should be able to get TV sound by selecting the ARC input on the stereo. Depending on how Visio has implemented the ARC function, with an ARC input active, it should override the TV speakers automatically and the volume control will instead adjust the audio level on the HDMI. Try this with the TV speaker left on. You may have to initially adjust the TV volume to get the stereo speaker output levels comparable to what they are with a normal listening setting for a different input like FM. I.e. With a setting of 6 on the stereo, the sound level should be the same whether the input selected is FM or ARC.

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While everyone's corrective actions and associated comments have only validated my procrastination for tackling this problem, all the information provided thus far is most valuable. In looking at everyone's broken flange pictures, I have to wonder: Had Oliver clocked the flanges such that the Johnny Bolts would be positioned closer to the end of the slots, instead of midway nearer the insertion reliefs, would these flanges be less prone to failure? I'm not suggesting this would solve the inherent problem, but it seems to me that the plastic flange might be stronger and less prone to flex with the bolts positioned near the end adjacent to the flange retaining screws. I'm coming up next and have a couple of stainless-steel ring solutions on deck. Thanks for all the tips.

Winterizing. You only want the solution to go into the water heater. The only procedural difference in valve settings would be for the water heater bypass. FYI I usually buy 3% peroxide at Sam's Club where they sell it in a two-pack of quart bottles or 1/2 gallon for less that 2 bucks. Walmarts also typically have individual quart bottles.

It's unnecessary as long as your power source can handle the inrush current, while also providing power for potentially other demands. I saw a Houghton table somewhere that the minimum generator size to reliably operate the 3400 was a 2200 watt class like a Honda or Yamaha. Key word being "reliably". A soft starter can still provide benefit.

The aluminum water heater tank and anode are the only components that can be adversely affected by a chlorine solution. Unless you can remove the safety relief valve, the only practical way to induce a solution into the water heater is to pump it in using the winterizing valve settings. I would premix the solution in a large enough container and draw it into the water heater this way. Beginning with an unpressurized water system: 1. Start with all water faucets closed, the rear inlet capped, and the water heater bypass valve normalized. (Not bypassed) 2. Remove w/h anode for draining. 3. Lift to open the safety relief valve lever on the water heater to vent the tank and allow all water to drain. Note that this value must remain open until the very end . 4. After water tank has completely drained, reinstall anode. 5. Connect a drawtube from solution container to rear inlet and use water pump to draw solution in until it starts coming out the w/h safety relief valve. Note that the solution should only enter the water heater if all other water outlets are closed. At this point, how long you leave the solution sit in the tank isn't that important. Go ahead with draining and refilling the tank with freshwater finalizing by closing the relief valve lever.

The chlorine bleach could be highly corrosive to your aluminum water tank when heated. To be extra careful, I would thoroughly flush the tank as Bill suggests but with a 10:1 solution of water and 3% Hydrogen peroxide. Peroxide will neutralize any residual chlorine.

This is unverified and open for corrections: In order of production model years: Icon (2014-2016), HiSpec (2017-2018), Sendel (and/or) Tredit (2019), Lionshead (and/or) Sumec (2020-2023). Maybe OTT could provide validation and resolve by production VIN.

I missed the last picture and end of your post yesterday. It looks like the only piece unaccounted for is the spring.which could only have come out through the inlet with the nylon pieces shown in your first picture. As far as filling the tank: I can't remember ever using the fresh fill inlet. Typically my water softener is already hooked up to the city inlet, so I just open lower right valve on the diagram to direct water from the trailer lines into the tank. If there's no city hookup, and have to schlep water in a jug, the water softener gets hooked to the boondocking inlet and the tank gets filled following the standard procedure. I've reworked all the plumbing in that area and don't remember it being overly difficult to remove the check valves etal. It just takes the right combination of wrench types.

It looks like a combination of age and hard water has taken its toll on that check valve. Neoprene seal is probably in the water tank but was there any sign of the spring? While you're in there, strongly suggest replacing the other one.

You pretty much know what's involved. Access is tight in there and it's hard to see what your doing, but you could splice into the wiring loom midway between were it comes up from below and the outlets. While unlikely if just one USB, adding another outlet could overload the existing circuit. Consider running an entirely new circuit from the 12 volt buss bar under the streetside bunk to eliminate this potential.

I believe those touch light circuits are fed from the Master Light Switch on the panel by the entry door. Instead of having to pull the fuse, this switch can be used to turn the lights off. Flipping the switch off and on a few times might also lead you to the problem. Through the access plate in the overhead cabinet above the microwave, you can check the wiring for a loose connection and stress on the switch terminals.

The RVLock is supposed to give a warning tone when the batteries need to be replaced. Problem is, the lock gets flakey before this warning happens.

2019 will have a small fuse panel in the same location.

I used a different style but this one is similar and should work. https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1121-Chair-Terminal-Female/dp/B0071NCJ44/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_1/140-1621370-1568045?pd_rd_w=T1dhB&pf_rd_p=6b3eefea-7b16-43e9-bc45-2e332cbf99da&pf_rd_r=E1WBW319HHWRDZ7E8V21&pd_rd_r=556ffc67-d620-4f02-8f4b-3b5a93b01b8f&pd_rd_wg=wGdMb&pd_rd_i=B0071NCJ44&psc=1 Edit: On the other hand the reviews of that particular one make it questionable. The Ancor Marine version is more expensive but you can be assured of getting a quality piece. You might be better off sourcing it locally at a supply house. No need to have to buy 20 of them.

I should have said it has nothing to do with it as long as the trailer isn't connected to shore or the converter is turned off. The 60 amp is right next to the autoreset on the wheel well under the streetside bunk. It is the only 60 amp with a lever.

The 30 amp main under the dinette has nothing to do with this. The breaker between the seven way and batteries is an auto-resetting style that cannot be "flipped". On my 2018 the battery side of this breaker is connected to the battery side of the 60 amp DC disconnect breaker. The safest way to cut power to the 7-way is to first trip the 60 amp breaker and then disconnect it's feed wire at the battery.

I used a 2 to 1 flat terminal adapter on the protection device. That way the original wire terminations can be left in tact and it will be easy to backout the easystart installation In the event of a failure.

The rear egress window is made by Lippert Components and the seal is a different profile than the Hehr number you ordered. If your original seal looks to be like this picture, it is made by Steele Rubber Products (p/n 70-3825-255 ) and is readily available from a number of internet retailers in a fixed length. Alternatively, you can order it directly from Steele (steelerubber.com), where it is also available by the foot.

When you say "otherwise a no go" does this mean that, when the furnaces fails to kick on, you do not hear the the ignitor arcing?

What's the octane rating of that stuff?

Just out of your picture at the top, there is a flex line between that tee fitting and the pump inlet strainer. Disconnect this line from the tee and check for a blockage in the end. It may be a ball of plastic shavings like this:

Yes. On the side of the road this is the safest way because you only have to raise the wheel and axle high enough to make the change, not the entire trailer. Just be sure your 2 ton bottle jack is short enough to fit under the spring plate when the tire is flat. You might need to pull the flat wheel up on blocks if not.