thompsonkd

I ran the generator and batteries topped off at 13.3 before I had to shut off the generator because of where we are camped. We have 3 Battleborn 100 amp lithium. While the generator was running, converter was working (fan was running) charging the batteries. Normally I would run the generator until the surge protector readout went to 2 amps indicating that batteries were fully topped off, but couldn’t, so will do that this evening. The Zamp Solar controller seems to indicate incoming solar at this point. I checked the 12 volt fuse under the street side bed and it had not tripped. I tripped and reset it to see if that helped. You indicated a 40 amp circuit breaker? -where would that be? I will check the battery cables next. Thank you very much for your help. This forum and the people that contribute to it is invaluable!

We plugged Oliver into our generator and everything works-Zamp controller, Progressive converter, all 12 volt systems came on with the generator. Last night the Victron battery app indicated 77%; around 3 o’clock every thing went dead-all 12 volt systems were down. The only large draw was the fridge, but it was on propane. We are going to fully charge the batteries and see what happens. Any ideas?

We are currently Boondocking-last night the entire 12 volt system quit. This morning, when the sun came up, the Zamp controller came on with an error code of 601. We have 3 100 amp Battleborn. Yesterday, it seemed that we were not charging well with solar, but I assumed it was shade. Regardless, last night, Victron battery app showed 77% battery capacity. I am going to run our generator to see what happens. Any ideas about troubleshooting?

We live outside of Asheville, about 35 miles. Total devastation in our county. Services have been knocked out; power, water, phone and internet. Trees down everywhere. Lots of bridges out. Many roads are simply closed. Topgun and Scotty live in Western NC; not sure how they are doing. We have been lucky-house okay.

Mossemi; realized I misspelled your name! I am going to try and post a picture of what our basement structure looks like. We are traveling and visiting family so it’ll be a few days. I appreciate your help. David

Missed, and others; basic question: I tried to access the pipes and valves in the basement-there’s a wood panel-what’s the easiest way to get that out? I took the screws on the bottom of the panel out, but the floor doesn’t easily come up! Do I just pry away? Thanks in advance!

Thank you Mossemi. Perfect, just what I needed.

Thanks for everyone’s suggestions. I tightened up the fittings again under the curbside bed and the pump quit running after pressurizing the system. Eventually I’ll check under the kitchen sink, and if necessary, the bathroom sink. I wanted to check the inlet pipes and fittings for the fresh and city water inlets, and the winterization port; what is the easiest way to access these fittings? Thanks again. David

For some reason our water pump keeps running instead of shutting off, suggesting a leak or loose fitting somewhere. I tightened all the obvious fixtures under the curb side bed and the problem has continued. I am not seeing water come out of the scupper holes, and I don’t see any moisture under the bed. My question is where else should I look for a leak, cracked fitting, or some other issue? Maybe a water pump issue? Thanking in advance for any suggestions! David

I am not confident that these pictures will show our lights…We have the older style switched puck lights in our Oliver. Road vibration caused the rim to come loose from the main body of the light. Nothing seems broken, and all the tabs on the rim seem to be intact. However, we can’t get the two parts to snap back together. Has anyone had experience with this? Or, does anyone know what brand Oliver used for this style light? I can’t find it online. Thanks in advance. David

Previously, Topgun has mentioned that his remote switch for the Xantrex 2000 had quit working; he mentioned several fixes-snapping the connection to the remote switch in and out (accessible via the port hole in the pantry, cleaning the connections…Or replacing the switch. We tried all the trouble shooting and the remote continued to work for a while. Eventually, the switch quit and I replaced it. The new switch worked for a while, less than six months before requiring the troubleshooting techniques. Wondering if anyone else has had this situation with the remote failing so quickly. We need to use the inverter currently, so we just turned it on under the bed. A second question is are there any issues with simply leaving the inverter on for prolonged periods. Typically we turn it on only when it’s in use. Thanks in advance for any feedback. David

Galway Girl (Craig); thank you for posting this and very kind of you to offer assistance at the eclipse meet up regarding this. I had asked Craig about this at the rally and he crawled under my trailer to show me where the bolts were. And now he posts pictures with torque specs and all! Thank you. David

Kim and I are planning on attending the solar eclipse event at Lady Bird Park. I think someone was keeping a list of who will be there; not sure if that’s happening now, but wanted to let everyone know we’ll be in site #55. 12 or 13 Oliver’s now? We haven’t been to an Oliver gathering for about 4 years and it’s always exciting when we see an Oliver, so this gathering should be a lot of fun. We look forward to meeting everyone. kim and David

Hi Toby. We had the exact same issue, as have, unfortunately, many people who have had that model of Dometic refrigerator. We were never able to source the upper control panel and ended up having to replace the entire unit with a Norcold. Dometic was not helpful at all with trying to find the part; Oliver Service was very helpful but couldn’t turn up the part. There’s an extensive thread on the forum that talks about this issue. One suggestion was to repair the control panel yourself; that sounded doable but we don’t have the skill set for electronic repair. We had an RV shop replace ours and it was not plug and play. And, we invested in a very nice cooler, Polar brand, similar to a Yeti that allowed us to use the trailer before the refrigerator was finally replaced. David

Thanks Max Burner! Oliver actually called us about this(after we put in a service ticket) and told us the same thing. Service suggested either wire nutting one positive or going into the loom to find the single positive wire and connecting that. Appreciate your help. David

We have an 2018 Oliver Elite 2. Our Atwood CO/propane gas detector is out of date; we are attempting to replace with a Safe Universal CO/propane gas detector. The old Atwood has 3 wires, 2 red and 1 black. The new Safe detector has 2 wires, one red 1 black. Testing the wires in the Oliver that supply power to the detector we determined that both red wires are hot, and that they can power the new detector to function. How would we wire the new detector? Unsure why the Oliver has 2 hot wires feeding the detector. I don't think it matters, but when we put in new lithium batteries, we disabled the wire that charges the batteries through the tow vehicle. Thanks David

Anyone have any suggestions about camping in an Elite 2 at Chisos Basin Campground in Big Bend NP? The road in to the Campground is supposed to be narrow and steep. I’ve noticed that several Elite 2’s have camped there-we’d welcome reports! The trails out of Chisos Campground are said to be pretty amazing, and pictures of the general area around the Campground looks really spectacular.

We’ve noticed that our Progressive RV coverage, (we have USAA auto/home) have increased their rates about 20 percent. Curious what companies other Olie owners are using, and their thoughts on experiences with those companies. Thanks. David

Would someone who has installed the battery cutoff, would you mind posting a picture? Because of the way the batteries are wired together, I find it difficult to know which battery to put it on. Seems like the negative post is more of a favorite than the positive post?

I have a few questions re wheel bearings on our Elite 2: If the bearings are appropriately maintained, how long can they be expected to last? if the bearings are in for service anyway, is it worthwhile to replace the original bearings with Timken? The bearings on our trailer now are original to the trailer and are whatever brand Oliver uses. They have held up fine so far, and mechanics who have looked at them have indicated that they are decent quality. Thanks in advance. David

Thanks for the clarification. Makes sense. David

All great responses. Thanks. Seems prudent to test the power source before plugging in! David

Pete What type of external surge protector do you use? And, are there other recommendations from others for a small, inexpensive device to check poles? Thanks David

Good idea. Might bring up more responses. David

That’s helpful, Mossemi. So, to get access to the drain pans, the AC has to come off the roof, correct? We are beginning to think the drain pan may be damaged somehow, not allowing a full connection of the drain tube. Thanks David