Frank C

I had that problem with the bathroom window on our Oliver. Water actually building up between the panes. The sliding portion was not available separately as a replacement part, so I had to get the entire window from Oliver and replace it. Actually not too hard of a job. Worst part was removing all the old caulk from the fiberglass hull. Here are pics before, during, and after replacement. As another option there are companies that will refurbish the faulty window. At least one other Oliver owner has done that option so hopefully they will reply as well.

Your outer hull should have multiple small metal scupper drains on the underside (see photo) at each lower corner of the hull. These will allow water from leaks or condensation to drain, but it’s better to avoid any water getting in between the hulls in the first place. A seal under the compost toilet would be a good idea.

Glad your issue seems to be resolved. And good to have caught the loose ground. But I don’t think the low voltage at the cigarette lighter was related to the EMS ground. The Progressive Industries EMS is part of the AC shore power input system, separate from the 12 volt DC circuits. The Progressive Industries EMS feeds into the Progressive Dynamics converter/charge controller to charge the batteries. All of the 12 volt systems and accessories are connected directly to the battery 12 volt supply bus bar (through the DC fuse panel) and the DC ground bus bar. You may have unknowingly fixed the issue when you were disconnecting & reconnecting the USB port and cigarette lighter socket. Maybe a slightly corroded terminal contact, etc.

Are you looking to secure the hitch while traveling or while parked? The collar style works for both situations. The big heavy Proven Industries lock only works when parked. I have both 🙂. The Proven lock can double as a boat anchor. https://www.provenlocks.com/products/model-2178-b

This is definitely a big clue. 5 volts is the nominal charging voltage of a USB port to charge connected devices. If you are seeing approximately 5 volts at the adjacent cigarette lighter instead of 12 volts, I would check the wiring between the USB socket and the cigarette lighter to make sure they aren’t incorrectly wired. They may be incorrectly wired in series, or reversed polarity, or the USB charger port may be defective. They should be wired in parallel to the trailer DC power circuit and ground.

The reason Andersen didn’t give you any help is that Andersen doesn’t make the coupler. The hitch coupler is from Bulldog Products. Here’s a link to their contact page. They should be able to help you. https://www.bulldogproducts.net/ContactUs

I think the concern with traveling with the TV in the down position is that, while it may be less stress on the TV plastic case, it will put more stress on the fiberglass hull of the Oliver where the swinging arm bracket mounts to the hull, as the TV tries to swing side to side like a big pendulum while traveling/bouncing down the road.

Just a reminder for anyone buying replacement lug nuts. Make sure you buy the “Bulge Acorn” type for aluminum wheels. I’ve seen a few owners referencing “Acorn” type as replacements, but the acorn type are for steel wheels and have a smaller conical seating surface compared to the bulge acorn type. Aluminum wheels are softer metal than steel wheels and the larger bulge acorn type lug nuts provide a greater seating surface to prevent deformation of the aluminum wheel and loosening.

No heat strip in the new Dometic freshJet? I didn’t see it mentioned in the features. Our old Dometic has the electric heat strip which we use quite often for just getting the interior warmed up a bit on cold mornings when we are at a campground with shore power instead of burning propane to run the furnace.

Beautiful vintage trailer. We crossed paths in Montreal last year with a large group doing a cross-Canada tour. Many interesting tow rigs of vintage vehicles and trailers with a few Bolers.

I have the Rock Tamers. After 4 years they’ve worked well to prevent any rock dings on the front of our Ollie. The standard truck mud flaps just behind the rear wheels don’t stop rocks from being thrown rearward towards the trailer

Mine were all 1/4”-28 thread size (2019 Elite II with the Dexter EZ Flex suspension) and I switched them to the 45 degree angled type. But as Steve mentioned above, some Oliver trailers have metric thread fittings (an M6x1 thread size).

Another voting option is needed- ”Not affected but still concerned for those who are affected”.

I do carry a large Husky kneeling pad to make things more comfortable when working at ground level. I don’t have much trouble kneeling down to work on the wheel bearings, it’s getting back up that’s the issue 😂. I’m “vintage” as well.

There’s some additional info needed in order to answer your question. You didn’t mention the payload rating of your Subaru. There will be a sticker on the driver’s door jamb that looks like the photo below that will state “weight of passengers and cargo must not exceed……”. That will tell you how much weight you can safely put IN your tow vehicle. You must count the tongue weight of the Elite I in that limit. Most calculations assume a tongue weight that is about 10% of the trailer weight. So if you have a dry camper weight of 3700 lbs, plus 266 lbs of fresh water plus 200 lbs of food & clothes, that gives a trailer weight of 4166 lbs, so a tongue weight of about 416 lbs. That tongue weight plus driver plus passenger and anything else in the Subaru count towards the payload limit. Most people with smaller tow vehicles exceed their payload limit without realizing it.

I tried the heat gun idea, but it didn’t give enough clearance. That extra material has to go away completely. The Honda generator has a very large vented gas gap that needs all the height clearance possible. I ended up cutting away the inside top wall of the lid in one corner and that just barely gives enough height clearance for the generator gas cap. The generator handle fits between the ribs on the lid since the generator is offset to one side of the Action Packer (see photo in the original first post above). Now the lid does fit and latch closed. The outer lid surface remains intact.

Also, if anyone is looking for the Action Packer, Walmart currently has the 24 gallon size online at $39.88 which is the lowest price I’ve ever seen. Current Amazon price is ridiculously high at $160 for a 2 pack.

Coincidentally I did search the internet for Honda generator storage box ideas and some ideas did pop up from the AirForum 🙂. Same idea with an Action Packer but this solution used a heat gun to deform the inner lid area of the Action Packer to get rid of the interference. A lot of other similar posts with various large plastic bins, usually with a cutout in the lid for the handle. And the Action Packer doesn’t take up much more space than the generator and Rotopax gas container separately. I have the short bed F-250 and we don’t pack light either 🙂. I already use several of the Action Packers for other gear, they are great for maximizing the use of the storage volume under the bed cover and keeping everything organized and accessible when needed.

Oh so close. Looking for a good storage bin option for transporting the Honda EU2200i generator in the truck bed (with a bed cover) to keep things clean and organized. I don’t have the front Ollie basket, plus I want to keep the generator under the truck bed cover away from prying eyes. I tried one of my 24 gallon RubberMaid Action Packer bins and it’s ALMOST perfect for the generator, a 2 gallon RotoPax fuel container, and an extra quart of oil, with a PIG Mat in the bottom of the Action Packer to absorb any oil or gas drips (but I doubt the Honda will leak anything). Holds things nice and snug, EXCEPT for the height. The inside ribs on the double walled lid interfere with the generator handle and gas cap. Might be time to get out the knife and modify the lid by cutting away one full rib, and also adding a small vent hole in the lid for fume venting. Of course for running the generator it will be removed from the storage bin, and allowed to cool down before putting it back in the bin.

We initially created and used checklists (3 different very lengthy multi page checklists for towing, campground arrival and campground departure) for our first few trips but after gaining some experience and familiarity with our Ollie and our specific camping and towing setup (which continually evolves) we’ve abandoned those checklists, and we just got into the habit of a simple one step checklist… “CHECK EVERYTHING!!!”. A complete walkthrough inside and walk around outside (usually more than once) of the trailer and truck checking every switch, valve, latch, jack, connection, hookup connect or disconnect, etc. We’ve learned the trick is to not rush things, especially when packing up and disconnecting to leave a campsite. After a while it just becomes second nature.

Very nice customization!

It won’t charge in 1.5 hours. The battery charger won’t allow the full 2000 watts available from the generator to be used. So you have to change that value on that website calculator. Change the charge current to amps and enter 50 amps.

The charge voltage value you entered is incorrect. The batteries do not charge at 120 volts. 120 volts is the nominal AC (alternating current) shore power input voltage to the trailer. The battery charger converts that AC voltage to DC voltage (direct current) for charging the batteries. Lithium ion batteries charge at around 14.25 to 14.7 volts DC. Enter that value. Charging current (amps) is equal to the charging wattage divided by the charging voltage. THEORETICALLY 2000 watts available divided by a 14.5 volt DC charging voltage is 138 amps DC, but the batteries and/or the battery charger have a charge current limit setting. So they typically do not allow that high of a charge current. For example, the BattleBorn batteries I’ve been considering for an upgrade have a maximum charge current limit of 50 amps DC. So at a 14.5 volt DC charging voltage that means it’ll only be using 725 watts. A 2000 watt generator is overkill for just charging batteries, but overkill is good, it means the generator won’t be working as hard.

There’s a small cooling fan inside the plastic cover/vent grill of the Progressive Dynamics Power Control Center under the dinette. My bet would be that a motor bearing on that small fan is going bad. You may want to remove the cover and check for dust buildup on the fan, but it’s likely a bad bearing.

Correct. Oliver installs an automatic transfer switch when the extra 30 amp port is ordered as an option. For any DIYers thinking of adding the extra 30 amp inlet port themselves, there absolutely must be a transfer switch installed to prevent multiple simultaneous external AC power connections.