Frank C

Zerk fitting caps. Available on Amazon. LockNLube Grease Fitting Caps (50 Count) (Yellow) https://a.co/d/1SYGqmF

I’ve used my air compressor to blow a few bursts of air into the fresh tank drain hose that exits under the hull. That pushes any plastic shavings out of the drain hose and valve, back into the tank. Just make sure the drain valve is open. It worked well. I’ve done it a few times now. Eventually it seems that all the little plastic shavings in the tank will be sucked up and captured in the filter screen on pump inlet so you can get rid of them and the problem goes away.

So the off brand 12v 100Ah Lithium batteries on Amazon just keep getting cheaper and cheaper ($299.99 in first link below) while BattleBorn’s price is still at a premium ($925 on the BattleBorn website). Or an off brand 12v 220Ah on Amazon for only $549.99! In a metal case enclosure even! (Second link below). No low temp charging cutoff on either of these but still a heck of a deal, since we don’t do any of our camping in sub freezing temperatures. Getting really tempting as I’ll likely be replacing my 4 year old lead acid wet cell battery setup in our Ollie in the near future, but I still have major concerns about the quality of those off brands. I’ve had work experience over the years dealing with Li batteries in medical products, and the quality of the individual cell manufacturing and the design & quality of the overall pack assembly is crucial to safety and performance. I don’t trust all the off brands that keep popping up, but wow, those prices are getting incredibly low. Timeusb 12V 100Ah Pro LiFePO4 Battery, Grade A Battery Cells, Compact Lithium Battery, Built-in 100A BMS,10-Year Lifetime, Perfect for RVs, Solar Home System, and Off-grid Applications https://a.co/d/1uDVBj8 Timeusb 12V 220Ah Lithium Battery, Built-in 150A BMS, Deep Cycle LiFePO4 Battery with Max 2816Wh Energy & 1920W Power Output, RV Battery, Perfect for RV, Camper Van, Travel Trailer, Caravan etc https://a.co/d/hx5sxCe

I would not want to have only 2WD for a TV for the Ollie. There have been multiple times at muddy campsites or sloping uphill gravel roads, and even on the slight slope of my grassy yard when wet that the 4WD on my truck was necessary to be able to move the Ollie.

Yes, if they aren’t too badly out of round or worn. The drums are marked with the maximum re-bore diameter.

His teardown technique is a little crude 😂. But he does point out a big missing feature. No low temp charging cutoff. And looking at the Amazon comments, it looks like that still hasn’t been addressed with the name change.

What brave Oliver owner wants to be the first to try this brand of Lithium ion battery? On Amazon for $319, less than half the price of comparable 100Ah BattleBorn. Surprisingly it has very good reviews. LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery Built-in 100A BMS, Up to 15000 Cycles, Perfect for RV, Marine, Home Energy Storage https://a.co/d/eK940j3

There are one way check valves on each of the inlets (fresh tank fill inlet and city water inlet). That check valve on the city inlet may be bad, or it may be clogged from contaminants or calcium buildup. Unfortunately it’s only accessible by removing the floor in the basement storage area.

I’ve had very good success using diamond grit hole saws on the Ollie for making large holes. Available at most hardware stores. A bit pricey but they work very well on fiberglass/gel coat. The diamond grit hole saw makes a very nice clean cut, and doesn’t cause any chipping or cracking of the top gel coat layer. The center pilot bit creates a nice starter hole to keep the hole saw from shifting while drilling.

This is what you need. A neutral - ground bonding plug. It’s a plug that ties the neutral and ground lines together on the generator. This gets plugged into one outlet on the generator and then the trailer gets plugged into the other outlet on the generator. Or, if you are comfortable doing basic electrical wiring you can also make your own using a standard replacement plug and a copper jumper wire as some owners have done. Southwire Company LLC Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug https://a.co/d/gkhoMF0

Girard does have a couple of special features on some awning motor controllers that are normally utilized when the awning is an installation on a motor home, to prevent driving off with the awning still extended. The Girard manual details both a parking brake off retract, and an ignition on retract option. Maybe Oliver figured out a way (accidentally or intentionally) to utilize one of those features by tying into the 7 pin harness running light connection.

Happy 4th of July to all! 🧨💥🎆 🇺🇸

Furnace had been functioning normally for the last 4 years with no issues until this latest trip on a cold morning. Upon turning the thermostat to FURNACE setting, the furnace blower would start and I could hear the burner ignite. Hot exhaust gas from the burner was exiting the exterior exhaust port as usual, but after a few seconds the burner would shut off, blower still running, then the burner would ignite again a few seconds later, then shut off again, then a 3rd time for the burner igniting and shutting off, then the entire furnace including the blower would shut down. No errors on the thermostat display but the red LED on the circuit board inside the Atwood exterior furnace access panel shows a pattern of 3 blinks, then a 3 second pause, then 3 blinks, etc. The troubleshooting info found on the label inside the cover says that error code means “ignition lockout fault”. Here’s what I’ve checked so far: -I made sure the thermostat set point is high enough (I tried 72, 75 and 80 degrees) so that the furnace should be running continuously since the ambient temperature inside the camper was around 60 degrees. -Propane tank is full, and propane is flowing to all other gas appliances (stove and Truma). -I let the stove on for a bit to purge any air out of the propane line. -Removed and inspected the sail switch, no fuzz, spiderwebs or lint buildup. Sail moves freely and I can hear the switch activate. -Hit the OFF/RESET switch on the furnace and waited 1 hour (troubleshooting manual mentions both a soft timed lockout and a hard lockout that requires reset. -DC power is good, battery voltage at 13.2 volts (connected to shore power so batteries are charging). Any thoughts on what else to check before I give Atwood and/or Oliver a call?

I used sharkbite connectors to go from the braided supply lines to the original plastic plumbing lines. I got all the parts at Lowe’s.

Ouch! That must have been really terrifying to experience. Hope everyone is ok. Stuff can be replaced, people can’t be. When you are comfortable discussing what happened, your experience may be helpful to others towing.

That plastic connection at the top of the hot water heater (Truma) seems to be a common failure point due to vibration when towing. After seeing other owners experience that failure I pro-actively replaced my Truma fittings with brass connections and braided flexible supply lines (to absorb any vibration). Sharkbite “push to connect” fittings used to make the transition to the original plumbing.

Yep, that key code # is really common on the Southco latch/lock. It’s available on Amazon too (link below). Mine are the same key code # as the other Ollie owners have posted. And if you search Amazon for Southco key, that M1-545-4 code is the only code that shows up for that style key for our hatch locks. I bought spares, along with spare entry door keys, to keep on my backup keychains. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074KXP4HV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not just trusting Ollie owners, that Southco brand of access door latch/lock is used commonly across the entire RV industry.

It’s one of these accessories (link below), plugged into one of the AC outlets on the generator. Generators need one of these to tie neutral to ground. Otherwise the EMS in the trailer will show an error. https://a.co/d/4AhQHFx

A lot more rotating mass and more unsprung weight (both of which are undesirable) added to each wheel with those Centramatic balancers compared to just balancing using traditional wheel weight methods.

The Carnton House civil war site tour in Franklin is worth a visit if you’re a history fan.

Very sorry to see this. Your projects and knowledge were always very helpful to the Oliver owner community. I wish you well in the future, prayers for the health issues, and I hope you will continue to contribute to the forum.

I’ve been considering similar upgrades to our 2019 and I think the biggest factor in the equation of upgrade cost vs. resale value vs. cost of buying a new trailer comes down to the labor cost and whether you’ll be doing the work yourself (“free” labor) or paying Oliver or Truma or an RV service center to do the work. As an example, someone recently mentioned they had received a quote from Oliver of over $5,000 to do just the fridge update. Most of that (well over half) was labor cost.

It’s not causing your leak, but the little round ring IS part of the scupper drain. Here’s a pic of the one under our black tank. It’s a small stainless ring with screen, poking through the insulation directly above the outer scupper on the lower hull (same for all of the scuppers on the hull).

Here’s the Truma document in PDF format. I keep a copy on my iPhone in the Books app, along with PDFs for all of the Oliver manuals, other component & accessory manuals, etc. That way I have them available even if I’m somewhere with no cell or Wi-Fi connection AquaGo stuck in clean mode.pdf