Frank C

I’d also be curious if everyone experiencing this has the king bed option, instead of the twin beds. The king bed may be creating a very different airflow pattern in the cabin from the rear most hot air supply vent back to the return vent.

How about an estimated 50,000 RPM on this Jeep flat towing fail? https://www.rvtravel.com/jeepdestroyed992/

Yeah, looks like Oliver doesn’t have the rally registration site up yet to pay the $100 per person fee. Still “coming soon”.

Working on a little accessory project for the Ollie and I’ve been looking for a good high quality DC cigarette lighter plug. Plenty on Amazon, all made in China, and sometimes the translations are comical. This one offers “Powerful Shrapnel” as a feature! 😂

See the headers on the chart for each type. The chart covers step bumper mount for the three vehicles listed on the upper part of the list. The lower section is for hitch receivers, but you still have to refer back to the specific section in the full guide for each vehicle for towing details/limits based on engine, cab size, bed length, etc. https://www.fleet.ford.com/content/dam/aem_fleet/en_us/fleet/towing-guides/2022_Ford_RVandTrailerTowingGuide.pdf

Note that there are some things that can trigger a false alarm on the propane monitor. A lot of aerosol sprays like air fresheners, hair spray, etc. will trigger it. Our propane alarm will trigger anytime I use Lysol spray anywhere in the camper. Did your alarm trigger shortly after you used any type of cleaner or spray in the camper?

Definitely a problem. And I’ve found that the aluminum inner window frames in the Oliver are a great condensing surface for that moisture in the air in cold weather since aluminum conducts thermally so well. The inner aluminum frames get really cold while winter camping, even colder than the double pane glass window panes themselves or the fiberglass surface of the inner hull. The edges of the aluminum inner window frames are hidden behind the plastic window shade frames so it’s not readily noticeable, but moisture condenses there on the aluminum frames very quickly in cold weather when you’re breathing, laying in bed right below those left and right rear side windows, and then the moisture drips down to the belly band and then to the beds. Fresh air exchange definitely helps.

Congratulations on the new trailer! And glad you had a safe trip back home. Just to clear up a detail though, the furnace doesn’t push external air into the trailer or pressurize the cabin. The furnace draws in cabin air that travels through the return vent(s) in the cabin, heats it, and sends it back into the cabin through the supply vents. And it’s isolated from the air used for furnace combustion process. Older Olivers like mine only have one very large rectangular return vent below the curbside bed that allows cabin air to circulate back to the fan intake on the furnace. I’ve seen photos from recent owners that show another return vent in the bathroom now on the newest trailers. With all the windows, fans and door closed, there’s actually very little air exchange of fresh outside air coming into the Oliver, only what gets in through the under hull scuppers. That’s why condensation, just from people breathing, can be such a problem in the Oliver. We try to leave the MaxAir fan open a bit or crack open a window to get some fresh air exchange to help reduce the buildup of moisture inside the cabin when camping in colder weather while running the furnace. Someone posted this graphic about typical moisture that will build up in a trailer.

I changed our Oliver window seals from white to black a couple years ago. Here are the before and after photos. I haven’t had any streaking from the black seals.

I had done all that usual checking of the traps, etc. The issue actually turned out to be a broken & cracked toilet mounting flange (see photos) that allowed black water to leak under the toilet and drip down onto the top of the black tank and between the hulls, causing the odor issue. The crack grew progressively worse over time and eventually the source of the problem became very apparent as water leaking out of the under-hull scupper below the bathroom anytime the toilet was flushed. Oliver uses an all plastic toilet flange which is common in residential applications but seems prone to cracking with a heavy porcelain bowl toilet in a trailer bouncing down the road. Other owners have discovered this same problem (sometimes on a brand new trailer, seems the flange occasionally gets broken during installation of the toilet). I replaced it with a new toilet flange that has a stainless steel ring for holding the toilet mounting bolts. I also installed a new Dometic seal between the toilet and flange. Problem solved, odor gone (after some cleanup & disinfection between the hulls around the black tank). Thankfully we only ever use the toilet for #1. #2 is done at the campground restrooms or roadside rest stops. Made cleanup a lot less of an issue.

Not always the case if only charging the batteries. I have the 4 x 12v lead acid wet cell battery setup and I keep it charged quite easily at home connected to a standard 15 amp household outlet using an adapter on the 30 amp Oliver connection. It never draws above 7 amps when I’m just recharging the batteries.

Thanks to the Admins for the reorganization and cleanup of the Classifieds section of the Forum. Much improved!

I have the 4 x 12v wet cell battery setup as well. If you are reading only 11.6 volts on the display, your batteries are very close to completely dead (see chart), and may be damaged (shortened battery life). Since you don’t have power available at your storage location, removing the batteries and taking them to your home and putting them on a battery tender is your best option. I store our Ollie at home and just plug it into house AC power every two weeks or so to keep the batteries from dropping below 12.2v.

Wow! A really nice professional job on that. Looks great!

Do you have the Truma hot water heater? If so, in normal operating mode it will cycle on and off to have hot water immediately at the ready. Not very loud but just enough to be annoying. We hated hearing that at night while trying to sleep, so putting the Truma in ECO mode stops that cycling but it takes a little longer to get hot water flowing.

A very sad story. Sometimes I think I over-prepare for emergencies on the road, but then I see a story like this. I’ve been carrying a Rhino tow strap and a Curt D-ring shackle for minor towing emergency recovery situations that may never come up (stuck in snow, etc.). Haven’t had any need to use them yet, but that article is an eye opener. And even with this stuff I carry (rated to about 10,000 lbs working load) there are situations that are still best left to a professional recovery service. Prayers for that family.

? You don’t have 3 yellow fuse holders like this photo under your street side (driver’s side) access hatch under the bed? Ours is a 2019 Elite II, Hull 461 so your 2019 should be pretty similar. These are the fuses for the 3 jacks, and the front jack also has a redundant 2nd fuse on the front jack post. And it’s a glass tube type fuse, not the blade type. Did you get a spares kit of fuses with your Oliver? (Ours came with a kit, and there’s a spare 30 amp fuse in the kit). And you can substitute a 30 amp fast blow fuse if it’s all you can find. It won’t hurt the jack, but the fast blow fuse may blow prematurely as a nuisance in a high current draw condition.

The blue tube exiting under the hull is your fresh water tank drain tube. The drain valve on that drain line might be open. Have you recently filled the fresh water tank? If not, it could be a bad check valve in the water pump (or very high city water pressure) that’s letting water from the city water connection leak back into the fresh water tank, and if the fresh tank drain valve is open, water from the fresh tank will exit out of that blue tube.

I just replaced the bathroom window in our Ollie as well due to fogging between the glass panes. The window replacement is actually pretty straightforward if you have basic handyman skills. As Andrew mentioned, removing all the old caulk to get a good clean surface is the hardest part of the job. I used Dicor Butyl foamcore tape (link below) to bed the window to the hull. Very sticky, and a round profile so it goes around the corners of the inside surface of window frame very easily without wrinkling, so it makes a very good seal. I finished it off with white DAP AMP caulking around the perimeter (UV resistant and specified for metal and fiberglass). https://dicorproducts.com/product/seal-tite-butyl-foamcore-roll/

Finally got around to doing my mud flap project. I used 1” square single slot aluminum T slot rail and 1/4”-20 T slot nuts (from McMaster Carr) with 1/4”-20 stainless screws & washers. A 2’ long section of T slot rail on each side of the trailer, with 12” wide mud flaps (from Husky, very nice quality thick molded mud flaps) cut to the Oliver trailer hull profile. The T slot rails come with a hard anodized finish so no issue with galvanic corrosion when mounted in contact with the steel subframe. The T slot nuts hide a lot of the mounting hardware for a clean appearance. And the street side flap needed the upper corner cut away to allow the basement door to open fully. Thanks to John and others for the inspiration for this project.

Unlike other traditional lithium batteries, these new ones work best when stored and used at very cold temperatures. 🙂

This ad popped up on my computer after I had done some searches on lithium batteries. The “battery cells” look very familiar 😂. This could be a technical breakthrough since most campgrounds already have plenty of these “cells” 😂 Seriously though, some ad agency needs to do a better job of getting stock photos off of the internet.

There are a lot of counterfeit “Timken” bearings out there, especially on Amazon. At that low price I’m not sure I’d even trust the ones from Summit to be genuine Timken bearings. I bought mine through an authorized Timken distributor (Applied Industrial) and it was about $60 per wheel for the two sets needed (inner and outer bearings sets) for each wheel, plus the new seal needed. And I use the WBA bearing app available for smartphones to scan the QR code on the bearing packaging to confirm they are legit.

Under your account settings/notification settings.

And here’s a very long thread on bearing maintenance that discusses the tools needed and the Timken bearings and seal part numbers: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5166-dexter-axle-bearings/