ADKCamper

Yikes! Glad you were able to track this down before it got too far out of control. I've seen evidence of overheated receptacles in campground pedestals fairly often. I *assume* most of that is from loose/worn blade contacts, but it could also be a loose terminal screw connection. Either way, loose = higher resistance = heat. I'll be watching the camper-side connection more carefully now as well...

Ahh, yes... For older trailers without the PI EMS you are correct! However, from a safety perspective I'm not sure what the RVIA thinks about the resulting isolated (normally grounded) neutral / disconnected grounding conductor. A partial/full short to trailer chassis somewhere (due to vibration damage to insulation, failed appliance component, etc.) might result in a "hot skin" situation. Since we're mostly fiberglass that probably translates to hot frame, hot appliance enclosure, or the like. I hadn't thought about this before... but a possible remediation to this risk might be to either (1) ground the generator / trailer combo when not attached to commercial shorepower (forcing a breaker trip if a sufficient short should occur), or (2) use one of the in-line GFI units designed for generators / extension cords on construction sites to interrupt the power in the case of any small current leak to somewhere other than the neutral return wire, or maybe even both of these? Are there any RVIA/NEC code gurus here?

Either way you'll need both receptacles; absent an additional Y-adapter of some kind... one receptacle to power the camper load and the other for the neutral/ground shorting plug to keep the Progressive Industries surge protector/power quality checker happy 🙂

We currently have the Honda EU 2200i Companion model. Yes it has a 30 amp receptacle, but unless something has changed since we purchased ours it is not a TT-30 straight-bladed receptacle matching the shore power cord. It is a NEMA L5-30 3-prong twist lock receptacle... so you will need an adapter to use the common 30A shore power cord configuration with the Honda EU 2200i.

Yes, blew out all lines, inlets and outlets with low pressure air prior to introducing RV antifreeze. The difference this year was I left some antifreeze in the toilet bowl. Usually I drain the antifreeze from the bowl into the black tank and leave toilet valve lubricant in the bottom of the bowl. There was likely more "antifreeze fumes" than usual in the air with what was left in the toilet bowl. Our RV antifreeze this year was also the "Champion" brand from Camping World, as shown above...

Seems to be a recurring theme... same thing happened to our unit yesterday. Just replaced the original Atwood detector with an RV-Safe detector in April due to the Atwood repeatedly false-alarming. Worked fine all season. Shortly after winterization (maybe an hour?) it went into (CO) alarm and would not stop. Tried 'reset' twice and it began to alarm again shortly after the reset each time. Propane turned off for 2 weeks, no appliances running, RV anti-freeze in the toilet, traps and water lines. Fortunately we are done camping for this season, so I pulled the fuse and visibly tagged the detector as "OFF". If we had had to winterize at elevation this month while still camping, this would be a bigger issue. Sounds like a design flaw???

Greetings to the Elite II seen heading eastbound on I-70 near Cisco, UT around 10:45am MT on Sun Sept 22nd. We were westbound, same location in an Elite I…

We have solar and a 2000W Xantrex inverter, but do not carry an electric coffee maker. Like @MobileJoy we use a tea kettle on the LP stovetop and a Melita pour-over cone & paper filter into a stainless thermos bottle each morning. Our son boils water on the cooktop and uses a french press. Choices abound 🙂

We haven't been into Canada since before the pandemic. In addition to the information above, suggest checking into the current rules regarding transporting fresh fruits and vegetables or alcohol across the border. In recent history it has been prohibited to transport firewood across the border, due to concerns over the migration of invasive species (like the emerald ash borer, spotted lanternfly, etc.). I am uncertain whether certified, kiln-dried firewood like that sold in many grocery stores is permitted or not. Canada is a great destination to visit or camp. Enjoy your trip!

Instead of pulling the stabilizer jack fuses every time, we added a short terminal strip and (3) 30A SPST toggle switches under the dinette seat to disable the stabilizer jacks. Since these photos were taken I've replaced the terminal strip shown with one that has an insulating cover over the connections. White PVC (?) angle is 1.5" corner guard from https://www.wallguard.com 30A toggle switches are Cole Hersee #202086 from Defender.com, $5.99 each in 2020.

We have had the set screws on the stainless railing between the dinette and the bed work themselves loose early-on. Also solved by Loc-Tite; hasn't happened since. We have an LE. I don't believe the LE-II model has that railing... the pantry is there instead.

We have had the same issue on several of our cabinet doors as well. Ditto the advice above about using Blue Loctite (#243) or equivalent on the threads. I also noticed that the machine screws holding the doors to the hinges only engage with a few turns of the threads. I don't know if this is the same on all model years or not. I changed out the machine screws to a slightly longer one that engages more threads (and thus the Loctite thread locker *should* perform better). The jury is still out on this as I've only recently made this change. OEM screw size: M3-0.50 x 6mm long, stainless steel, Phillips truss head Replacement screw size: M3-0.50 x 8mm long, 18-8 stainless steel, Phillips truss head, with an oversized M3 18-8 stainless steel washer under the head. I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr, but you can likely find smaller or per-unit quantities from another supplier. M3-0.50 x 8mm Phillips truss head Screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/92467A119 Oversize M3 washers (9mm OD): https://www.mcmaster.com/91116A120

Looking sharp and ready to roll... Let the adventures begin!

Yup... good to check every now and then. We probably check it a couple of times a year. Upon occasion we have also found small plastic chips (which we assume came from cutting/trimming PEX tubing or threading fittings into tanks during the initial water system installation).

Sounds like a great start! Is there a video or transcript of Rodney's opening remarks posted anywhere ... for those of us who could not attend the Rally?

Welcome to the family! Let the adventures begin 🙂

Passed by an Elite II Sat April 13th on I-57 South between Mt Vernon and Benton IL... Washington State plates, "Urge for Going" on the back. Still kinda rare in the wild... this was the only one we encountered on the highway or in a campground during 18 days and about 4,000 miles through parts of NY, OH, IN, IL, MO, AR, TX, LA, MS, AL, TN (not near Hohenwald), VA, WV, MD, PA. Also saw a couple of Casitas, and a Park Liner; no Scamps or Escapes either. Can't always see the opposite side of the highway, so some might've slipped by undetected 🙂

I *LIKE* this idea 🙂 Join the Oliver community, meet folks, look at trailers, witness first-hand the depth, breadth and creativity of Oliver owners. Hand out business cards/brochures. Maybe even make a group presentation about the capabilities and culture of their own dealerships.

We have the bulldog coupler lock from Proven Industries. It is an impressive lock. We did not, however, purchase the puck lock from Proven Industries. Instead we chose an Abloy Protec2 PL-975 hardened steel puck lock from Security Snobs: https://securitysnobs.com/Abloy-Protec2-PL-975-Hardened-Steel-Puck-Padlock.html Its pricey at about $160, depending on keying options. Its possible to configure other Abloy locks to be keyed-alike with your puck lock with a little planning...

I have only used the same sizes as mossemi above for 24-12 AWG and 10 AWG (stranded in RV and boat). I don't know if there are larger ones available or not. Generally the Wago splices are in junction boxes or fixture enclosures. Crimp connectors for #8 and larger are on binding posts / bus bars and usually have some sort of protective cover over them...

I am a WAGO connector fan for circuits within their approved rating; properly sized crimp connectors and binding posts for bigger stuff. Clamps or cable ties where possible to limit vibration. I also wrap 2 turns of trimmed-down black tape around the Wago "levers" after making and inspecting the connection to keep those little levers from getting caught on something and opening up when folded back into their junction box.

Just to help narrow-down the timeframe for when the switch was made from the older 5,000 lb BD to the 7,000 lb BD on the LE-I model, our LE-I (#409, mfg in Nov 2018) has the 7,000 lb Class 4 coupler with the gusset and the correct label to match...

Thanks, Dave! Appreciate all of the research/experiments with your Elite... its earlier and slightly different from ours, but much more similar heating-wise than the Elite II's discussed in other "keep the plumbing warm" threads! Camp on 😎

Not sure how to do that, other than to take the total charge current (from the smart shunt via the Victron app) and subtract (in my head... I hate to do that LOL) the present solar charge current (again, from the Victron app) to compute the converter charge current... assuming there are no 12v loads active at the same time (which would result in 2 unknowns in the equation SolarChargecurrent + ConverterChargeCurrent -Active12vloadCurrent = TotalChargeCurrent).

Thanks, Dave for posting your experiment results! It would be interesting to see how the new/improved under-floor airflow performs at some lower outside sub-freezing temperatures, and whether there's any need to attempt to "balance" the under-floor airflow to obtain equal warming in the 4 primary under-floor locations of interest (water pump, outdoor shower, galley sink area and bathroom sink/toilet area). Your proposed mod is pretty easy to implement if it performs well in all locations in lower temperatures. Some have expressed concern in earlier posts about too much suction in the under-floor area bringing in cold/damp air through the under-floor drain scuppers. I have no idea how much under-floor suction you might need before this becomes a significant issue... I have been thinking about pressurizing the under-floor area with a fan in each of the 2 rear corner locations where you would have the new vents, and allowing that air to return via vents from under the bathroom sink area into either the bathroom or the adjacent closet area. Your approach is a little cleaner in that my fans would require routing 12v to the fans and providing an on/off switch mechanism (either manual or via a temp sensor or sensors under the floor)...