Galway Girl

Rally Early Registration is open and saves you $ as price will go up later. Rally link: https://olivertraveltrailers.com/events/oliver-owners-rally/ See Jason on the Morning Coffee Youtube just released...he also discusses the Rally Registration and Fee's in the video.

I carry a backup pump and have had to use it to fill through the normal fill port (not the rear suction port.) If you ever want to build a backup pump system...here's our article on that topic. Backup Water Pump Hope some of the comments like the one above about checking for air leaks have helped. Let us know your outcome.

I assume you are trying to fill your fresh tank from a "container" using your rear boondocking port to suck in water through the on board pump. Q) Was the pump able to pump any water out of your tank before you started? It may have lost prime. If you lose prime you can often get it to reprime by either removing and checking the water filter (near the pump) or by opening and closing each of the valves and ending back on the boon docking configuration. Our 2019 Has this Valve Configuration...not sure if it's the same for you but just as a cross check for sucking in thru our rear port.

I had just asked last week about what they are upgrading older units to now days at the factory, Dometic Freshjet was the reply. Price was $4600.00 for upgrade.

We use 200w Renogy panels when dry camping or boon docking for more than 3 days in one place. See our article. External Solar Kit Details - Hull 505 We've found that it's helpful when the trailer is shaded by tree's and we want to keep things topped off for longer stays. CS

For truma communications between devices on the inside controls they use a data cable with network or phone style connections. There should be one plugged into the right side of the water heater looking from the outside above the power switches and behind the larger white cable connector. If it’s plugged in then check the other end at the control panel. IMG_7831.mov

So to add an interpretation: that tag it tells you that "weigh carrying" capacity (which is direct downward pressure from the tongue) is 500lb's without a weight distribution hitch and 1160lbs if you have a weight distribution hitch attached. Since Oliver EII's loaded are usually around 600-700 lb range...then you'll need a WDH for that particular hitch on that particular vehicle.

At the Oliver Rally I plan to put out various parts for free that may fit other Oliver setups as I’ve bought many replacement parts (like stove grommets) that aren’t for our version by mistake.

That looks like the knockout panel on the furnace is missing . You can seal it with silver furnace tape or find a sheet metal piece to put in place. Please post the pix to oliver as a service ticket!

Had a tricky time finding grommets that fit the hole for our burner bases on our Dometic PI 8022 2 burner in our Hull 505 EII Added them to the outfitters guide here: Oliver Outfitters Guide Cheers, Craig & Rose Hull 505

We upgraded from 1/2ton F150 with eco boost 6 for that same reason. The downhill compression breaking in the diesel engine makes a world of difference and no need for an Anderson hitch as the new truck has antiseay brake controls.

I vaguely remember needing to reset a parameter within the settings of the Xantrex to avoid that problem. The battteries blink When charging so that’s normal. I n our case the LOW Battery Cutoff Voltage setting was not set properly after an update to our system....and it would do the beeping thing. The settings are easily changed in a data table on your xantrex phone app. Your settings would be the column to the left of the red column below: LCBO Voltage can be set from 11.5-12.1 FURTHER INFO: Here's some data from the web: A beeping sound from a Xantrex inverter charger is an audible alarm indicating low battery voltage, an electrical overload, or internal overheating. The system uses the beep to protect the internal components and the connected battery bank from permanent damage. [1, 2, 3] Most Common Causes Low Battery Voltage: The battery bank has dropped below the low-voltage cutoff threshold (typically around 10.5V for 12V systems). This can happen if the batteries are drained, a battery cell is dead, or the charger is disabled. AC Output Overload: The continuous power draw from connected appliances exceeds the total wattage capacity of your Xantrex unit. This triggers a warning beep before the system shuts down to protect its circuits. Overheating (Thermal Shutdown): Poor ventilation, blocked cooling fans, high ambient air temperatures, or heavy prolonged loads can cause internal temperatures to spike. High Battery Voltage: An external charging source like an un-regulated solar controller or high-output vehicle alternator is pushing voltage above the upper safety limit (usually >15.5V). Bad Cable Connections: Loose, corroded, or undersized DC cables cause a sudden voltage drop across the connection terminals under load. The inverter reads this localized drop as a dead battery and triggers an alarm. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10] Troubleshooting Action Steps Check the Digital Display: Look for error codes like E01/E05 (Low Voltage), E03/E06(Overload), or E04/E07 (Over-temperature) to pinpoint the exact failure type. Verify Voltage with a Multimeter: Test direct DC current across the battery terminals. If it reads under 12V, plug into shore power or run a generator to engage the battery charger. Shed Electrical Loads: Unplug high-draw appliances like microwaves, coffee makers, or hair dryers to see if the beeping stops. Inspect Physical Connections: Tighten all cable terminals. Clean off any green or white corrosion crust with a wire brush. Ensure the cooling fan spin freely and the air vents are completely clear. Perform a Hard Reset: Turn off the unit. Completely disconnect all sources of AC shore power and DC battery power for 5 to 10 minutes to reboot the internal microprocessors. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11]

Wonder what that will weigh?

Saw this a while back and they hadn’t started shipping yet. The earlier video showed very rough cutouts in the cabinets ( no trim out) were as it was first prototype. See they went with Battleborn.

Check your 7 pin. If it gets water in it the on board 12v battery will trigger. see this posting https://4-ever-hitched.com/blog-articles/f/why-were-my-tail-lights-on-all-night tail lights on ??

Running gear looks the same , just a wheel & tire change and some black accents. At least they are trying something different. If they changed up the suspension for better off road that would make a difference.

Usually the 1/2 Ton Trucks are limited by the 'dead weight" or weight carrying capability. The receiver unit on the truck you have should have a sticker like this one (from a 2018 F150) either on the actual receiver hitch or on the door frame. Notice that on this unit the max Tongue weight capacity is 500LB. (Weight carrying the case where you don't have a WDH and is essentially the dead weight from the trailer tongue down on the ball.) An Elite II tongue wt when loaded is easily above this 500lbs, and requires a weight distribution hitch to be safe and legal. In this F150 case, once a weight distribution hitch is applied, the F150 can then handle up to 1220 Lbs of direct tongue weight. The towing guides for most vehicles state the method for determining how much adjustment is needed from the WDH. Most have you: 1) Measure the unloaded truck's front wheel well height through the center of the front wheel. 2) Measure the wheel well height after loading the unit and attaching the trailer. In most cases the amount of weight distribution needed is set to bring the front end back down by at least 1/2 of the total difference in those two measured heights. Example: Unloaded measures 37" Loaded measures 41" (4' total rise). Apply enough WDH force to lower that front measurement by least 2" ....or 39" when loaded. Each manufacturers towing guide states specifics by vehicle make and model. CS

My original was subbed out by PD as a warranty claim. Now the second one has the issue with the Neutral leads both in the box and from the street side. I'll be buying a new version of this box PD5110010Q.

Sorry I checked my quote from Alcan and part # not there either. We ended up sticking with our original 3.5k’s as we had just put in new brakes and bearings. I suggest you ask Alcan when you order your springs as they’ll have that p/n for sure and it will need to match for the spring order. They also know the axles lead time by heart! Craig

FYI - This years Ford Towing guide has a ton of useful general info as well. 2026-Ford-RV-&-Trailer-Towing-Guide_r7_fnl-Mar19.pdf

When we first bought our EII we had a F150 with a hitch rating that required load levelers and sway control for any tongue wt above 500lbs. So we bought the Anderson and used it for 2 years...but then we upgraded trucks. We now have an F350 Diesel 1 Ton Short Bed with a 3" receiver which has a dead weight rating of 2120lbs. We use a B&W Tow N Stow hitch and that's it. We've not had any sway or issues and it's dead simple to adjust if needed and hookup/unhook much easier than using either the Anderson Antisway (with Chains) or the types that have WDH Bars and Sway Bars. We don't need sway control as our truck also has braking sway control built in that states in the user manual that manual sway controls shouldn't be used. CS

We have 3.5K Axles and used 4 leaf Alcan, had them do the install, they gave me the 5th leaf to carry with me if we wanted to install it later. After 5k miles with 4 leaves we're just fine. That said if you have the 5K axles on your trailer, then most folks use the 5 leaf version to match the axle rating.

Yes we made advanced reservations but we found many campgrounds less than 50% occupied by mid September. Probably the best to book in advance at the “National Parks “ as they are the busiest. We were in Canada Sept 5-Oct 1 Weather was very mild , in 55-65F range most days . Nights in 40’s. There were 3 rainy days, but some campgrounds are on bluffs so pretty windy.

We did a full month long trip in Sept thru early October to the area shown 2 years ago and it was barely long enough. Each of the items with a TENT on the map are highlighted in our trip..."the big loop" and and be seen in pictures with comments here: Scroll down to the pix section on Nova Scotia Main Island. https://4-ever-hitched.com/the-big-loop-2024 Graves Island Provincial Park - Site 31 Shown - is Just South of Halifax on the main island. Puts you perfectly in a spot for the UNESCO site of Lunenburg, Halifax and Peggys Cove as day trips. I would stay there at least 4-5 days if I were doing over. To get into the park you cross a causeway into the park which is on an island. Going south don't miss staying at "The Islands PP" Further SE = Site 54 - Islands Provincial Park - Puts you on the edge of the water....this is on the SE Corner of the main Island. North on the main Island before you cross onto Breton Island you may want to also see the Fortress of Louisburg...which is on the north east side of the island. A good stop point is Mira River Provincial Park as you can easily drive down to Fortress Louisburg from Mira River...and then north after that stop. SIte 28 - Electric & Water at Mira River PP Above....but the site 34 below would fit and is right on the bay, but no Electric or Water... I've labeled all the campsite photos for each park in our blog, but If you have any specific questions we could get on a call. Craig & Rose