Rivernerd

That is precisely why we did not order the front basket with our new Elite II. When I had a similar experience with my raft trailer 20+ years ago, I added a 3-foot straight section of steel to extend that trailer's A-frame tongue, then put a different coupler on it. Now when I have to jack knife that trailer, no bumper damage. Since I could not realistically add length to the Oliver tongue, we opted to forego the basket--and carry the stuff that could have been in the basket in the back of our Tundra tow vehicle.

Did you verify which terminals are positive and which are negative before installing the replacement batteries?

It appears you have two 6-volt batteries wired in series (positive to negative) to create a 12-volt battery bank. The test procedure I detailed above won't work. I defer to those more knowledgeable about 6-volt systems to advise you regarding proper test procedures for those batteries.

Your AGM batteries can be checked for proper charge while connected to your Oliver. I assume they are 12-volt batteries. Place the red lead from a voltmeter on the positive terminal and the black lead on the negative terminal. If using a multimeter, ensure that it is set to read "DC Volts." It should read around 12.6V. If not, one or both may be defective. In that case, I would disconnect the batteries from the trailer and test them individually. If either battery separately reads less than 12.6V, I would connect a good quality battery charger that has an "AGM" mode to one of them and let it charge overnight, then re-read the voltage. Repeat with the other battery. If you can't get either battery to hold a charge of about 12.6V, with no loads connected, it is defective. The reasonably-priced NOCO Genius 5 charger linked below has an AGM mode. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS5-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W8KJH44/ref=asc_df_B07W8KJH44/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3750609399406645391&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1041741797992&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76842158285&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385121954544&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3750609399406645391&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1041741797992 Good luck!

I recommend the stainless steel spikes available through the link below: https://www.amazon.com/Spikes-Pigeons-Small-Stainless-Coverage/dp/B085CBNQFX/ref=asc_df_B085CBNQFX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475793236502&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11280687831360435102&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1063130179122&psc=1 Why? We have an open truss design similar to your "winter home" on the front portico to our home. Those trusses have attracted nesting birds. We installed plastic bird spikes, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Deterrent-Outdoor-Pigeons-Squirrel-Outside-Brown/dp/B09WJVZ34X/ref=asc_df_B09WJVZ34X/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598365509249&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11280687831360435102&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029558&hvtargid=pla-1677722735497&psc=1 Last spring, a clever robin built her nest right on top of the plastic spikes, using them as structural support for the nest! So, next spring, I plan to replace the plastic spikes with stainless spikes. Lesson learned.

This aptly describes our experience with the Varioheat furnace in cold overnight temps, a few times at high altitudes, during our return journey to Idaho. With the door closed, the bathroom was nearly as warm as the main cabin, with main cabin temp at 68 F. Also, the street side plumbing areas got no colder than 27 degrees above outside ambient temperature. For example, when the outside overnight low was 9 degrees F, (with the main cabin temp at 68 F), the street side plumbing area next to the exterior faucet got no lower than 38 degrees F.

The Tire Minder also has the ability to monitor both the tow vehicle and all four tires on the trailer. You just need to buy enough TPMS sensors for all 8 wheels.

The Tire Minder TPMS system we recently purchased for the Elite II we picked up on November 10, 2022 was relatively easy to program. It performed well during our 2000+mile journey back to Idaho. With ambient temps ranging from the teens to the 50's F, we noted about a 3-PSI pressure increase from 50 PSI "cold" to 53 PSI "hot" as the tires warmed while on the road. It will be interesting to see what happens when towing in warmer temps, next spring.

I note your post notes work on an Oliver with a Dometic furnace, and you list "Hull 1111" under your name. But, your automatic signature block says "soon to be Elite II owners." Do you need to update your auto signature, or are you upgrading from an Elite I to an Elite II?

Photo of scored 2-5/16" hitch ball attached. I guess time will tell (when we use the Oliver next spring) if the scoring gets worse, or just "settles in", after trying the 4-fold wax paper lube method.

Torque the set screw as tightly as you can. Mine was not properly torqued at the factory, and so came off during our 2000+ mile drive home to Idaho a couple of weeks ago.

Makes sense. Thanks to you and Bill (Topgun2) for the explanations. I infer that, since waxed paper shouldn't seep when friction warms it up, that should be the preferred way to reduce coupler-to-ball friction, yet avoid the seepage issue, even with my 2022 version of the Andersen WD hitch. So, I think I'll try that method.

I also upgraded to the 2-6/16" Bulldog coupler, and purchased an Andersen WD hitch with the 2-5/16" ball. I installed it myself at the Oliver campsite the day after we took delivery. Per Andersen's ALL CAPS. BOLD AND HIGHLIGHTED INSTRUCTION on page 5 of their Installation Manual to "DO NOT GREASE THE BALL OR COUPLER," I didn't. Yet, after towing 2000+ miles back home to Idaho, there is a wear pattern on the 2-5/16" ball strikingly similar to the one pictured in John Davies' initial post above, just not as deep. Photo attached. So, I plan to try the wax paper trick for the next trip or two, and evaluate whether the wear is increased. But this makes me wonder what prompts Andersen's dire warning to not grease. Are they afraid the lubricant will allow the coupler to separate from the ball?

Oliver has added no insulation, and no other return air vents so far. I reference "more insulation" and "additional return air vents" in my post above as recommended "additional improvements" that Oliver could implement going forward.

1-7/8". See the Andersen Fitment Guide, link below. https://help.andersenhitches.com/weight-distribution-help-guide That should be enough to eliminate the conflict between the truck tailgate and the Bulldog coupler. And, according to the Andersen weight distribution hitch installation guide, having the trailer a bit nose down is better than a bit nose up. See link below: https://help.andersenhitches.com/install-weight-distribution-hitch

Good suggestion. Oliver has already chosen to install Truma Varioheat furnaces in all 2023 models. I believe the improvement in cold-weather performance in trailers with that furnace are due to Truma's insistence on use of Truma's specified ducting and design, including the return air vent in the bathroom. But, our experience camping with our Varioheat-equipped Oliver in single digit overnight temps above 5000 feet indicates that additional improvements, including more insulation in critical areas and additional furnace return air vents, could move the Oliver toward becoming a true "4-season trailer" even in more extreme climates. I believe Oliver does care about improving the quality of its products as the model years go by, and so would welcome the input. In my judgment, the Oliver is already superior to Airstream's offerings, or we would own an Airstream. Such improvements may not cost much more during production, and yet could push Oliver even further ahead of its competition.

I had the same reaction to Oliver's $800 price for the backup camera. But then I thought through how I would run the wire between the hulls from the camera to the power switch, and whether I could feasibly install a power switch in the main switch panel, so the camera does not operate 24/7. I am pretty handy, but we ultimately paid the premium to have Oliver install the backup camera in our Hull #1291 during the production process. The work was nicely done. We were glad to have it during our 2000+ mile trip home to Idaho.

We boondocked one cold night in Oklahoma on our way home from Hohenwald a couple of weeks ago. We ran the furnace all night. By morning there were white flakes falling from the sky. The power drain on our 390 Ah Lithium Pro Package was about 15% (meaning the Lithionics app showed about 85% State of Charge on all 3 of our batteries that morning). Even though the next day was mostly cloudy, our batteries were back close to 100% State of Charge by that evening just from solar recharge. Our trailer, like all Olivers with lithium batteries, is not recharged by the tow vehicle alternator. While battery drain should not be an issue when running the furnace overnight for up to 4-5 nights, you should also keep tabs on your propane supply. We burned through about 1.6 gallons of propane every cold night. So, with the two stock 5-gallon propane tanks, you should be o.k. for those same 4-5 nights before getting your propane tanks refilled.

All 2023 Olivers come with the Truma Varioheat furnace. One of the 2023 demo models on the Oliver showroom floor has Truma AC, water heater and Varioheat furnace. The other 2023 demo has the Dometic AC, Suburban water heater, but the Truma Varioheat furnace.

It's not me! I was never licensed in Oregon, and am no longer licensed to practice law anywhere, having retired 5 years ago. But, before you even consider retaining counsel, I recommend you contact Oliver's Sales and Operations Manager Rodney Lomax. His email address is: rlomax@olivertraveltrailers.com. My impression, when I met with him personally about two weeks ago, was that he has a high level of integrity, and cares very much how Oliver is perceived by its customers. I recommend you offer the explanation found in my post above (that the gas line must have been connected to the Varioheat furnace by an Oliver tech during production, because only Oliver could have installed the gas line in the trailer) and politely ask him to intervene to get Oliver to cover the repair under warranty. I will be quite surprised if he doesn't get the problem solved for you, by Oliver, not Truma. Before contacting Mr. Lomax, I would buy the necessary wrenches (it looks to me like 3/8" drive 17mm and 19mm crowfoots will work in that tight space, attached to 3/8" ratchet extensions, and controlled by 3/8" ratchets). You may even be able to get an open-end wrench on one of them--you likely will not know until you try it. I would then hold the "bottom nut" with one wrench while tightening the flare nut with another wrench--carefully, a little bit at a time, until the leak stopped. This is the way brass flare nuts are commonly tightened. If you are not comfortable with that approach, then take it to an RV service center, and ask Oliver to pay the bill.

That fitting connecting the gas line to the Truma Varioheat could not have been installed by Truma. It must have been installed by Oliver when the Varioheat furnace was installed in the trailer, and the gas line, which was installed by Oliver during manufacture, was connected to the furnace. If the flare nut connecting the gas line to the furnace was not properly torqued, that failure was by Oliver. Did Oliver service pass the buck to Truma in response to your service ticket?

Ergo, there is no effective warranty on Dometic products installed in Oliver trailers. Oliver passes the buck to Dometic, which has no service centers that will work on Dometic products installed in Olivers, because Oliver has no dealers. A complete circle of coverage denial. As a retired trial lawyer, this gets my blood pumping. Although we have a Truma furnace, we have other Dometic products installed in our 2022 Elite II, including the cooktop and toilet. I am quite interested to hear Mike's response. Please report.

One consideration: Do the antennas, cell booster or WAN packages come with switches on the main panel by the entry to the trailer? The backup camera does, and that was a significant factor in our decision to pay the premium for Oliver to do the install. This gave us not only the switch, but the connecting wires already in place between the hulls. You might consider submitting an inquiry to your sales rep. For what it's worth, we opted not to include either the cell booster or the wireless WAN. Instead, we upgraded our Verizon cell package to included unlimited data, then used our cell phones as mobile hot spots. That system gave us internet access wherever we had Verizon cell coverage. But, of course, we did not have the bandwidth to stream data-intensive programming, like on the TV.

No filter. But there will be no pet hair in our trailer, because pets are not allowed. One reason we purchased a travel trailer is my severe cat allergy and significant dog allergy. The return air vent in the bath is 2" OD, the same size as the supply vents in the trailer. It just looks big in my photo.

No. We didn't want the communications add-ons you reference, but we did want the backup camera. For what it's worth, we paid Oliver's premium to install the backup camera because I feared the same issue you are now facing with regard to wifi, satellite and cell boosters: where do the wires go between the hulls, and where does the power come from? With a March, 2023 delivery date, it probably is not too late to update your order to pay the premium for those communications add-ons. Yes, its spendy. But then you will have the cabling and power supply infrastructure in place to replace any component that becomes outdated.