Cameron

I do the same. I just hit the "AUX" button, clicking through the options, until it says "optical".

call or email Dimitri at Lithionics. He was a great help in answering all my questions. One of the things he shared is that the batteries sometimes need to be synched so they all charge equally. He suggested that I go onto the Xantex phone app, find Custom Absorption Voltage, and change the setting from 14.4 to 14.6. He said that it would be ok to up to 14.9 if needed to push the SOC to 100% for all three, but then I should leave the setting at 14.6. It's worked so far.

Took a break over Thanksgiving, leaving trailer and truck with brother in law for a couple weeks. Also, visited some friends who insisted we sleep in their house, even tho I always sleep better in #841. Those are the nights I slept in the trailer during this trip. I think I'm at about 7k miles since I left.

Tomorrow will be my 100th night in the Ollie since I left on my round-the-continent trip in early September. I'm on the way home now so I think I'll hit 102 nights before the trip concludes.

Yes. That original remote is almost useless. Who designed that thing? A sadist, for sure. Lol

Madison County, Virginia. Visiting a friend and I guess we'll be staying a day or two longer than we expected.

I've never even heard of a voltage booster, or seen one being used. It sounds like it would solve some of the problems I'm having, so I'm going to investigate some more. All of the stuff I'm seeing online is about using this at RV parks, rather than with a residential system. Would love to hear from others who have this booster.

Yes, I have one of those testers you mentioned and on a couple of occasions learned that there was no ground, so using that outlet was definitely not going to work. However, even when plugged into the trailer, it didn't do any harm. The trailer's electronic system (surge protector, charger, etc.) seems to be designed well so as to not be damaged when I plug into an outlet with no ground. Yes, I use a 10g extension cord with a 30a adaptor. I haven't checked the outlets with my multimeter, I've only watched the readout in the attic. When the readout says it's only getting 105 amps, I know that it's game over for me on that outlet. But I've had the experience where later in the day I get a full 120v, and then I'm good.

Yes, I've adjusted the charger draw rate on the Xantrex app so as to not overtax the residential system. As we are often visiting someone for a couple days, the longer period needed to charge the batteries is not a problem.

We're on a lengthy round-the-country trip with stops at all sorts of camp spots. Some are Harvest Host, some are Hipcamp, some are with friends/relatives in their driveway. (Boondocking is great too but this time of year we can't count on the solar panels to recharge enough.) The only time we get a 30a hookup is at an official campground. When possible with shore power we like to run a space heater (1500w high/750w low) because it gets rid of humidity/condensation. The mystery is what happens when when we plug into a residential 120 outlet (using and adapter). Sometimes it's great and we can run everything (hot water tank, fridge, space heater). Sometimes we can't even use it to charge the batteries. During problems, the charger readout in the attic gives us an E 0 and a P4 (low voltage) and a reading of 104 to 117v (roughly). That's when the inverter turns on and off with a big "thunk". Oliver service tells me the problem is that there are likely other draws on that residential circuit I'm plugged into, and that the best bet is to us an outlet with a dedicated circuit, but I don't think most residential systems are wired that way. However, sometimes the readout shows less than 120v and everything works fine, including charging and running appliances. That's the mystery. I've adjusted the Xantrex settings down to 10a for incoming power and 50a for battery charging, but that doesn't seem to make a difference. At this point I'm basically limiting my mooching to charge the batteries however much I can when my hookup voltage isn't fluctuating very much.

It was lots of fun last night when a big group of us were watching TV. An ad came on for the Ford F-150, showing it towing an Airstream on some beautiful coastal road. Of course I had to pipe in with "That's not such a great trailer. Ours is better!" (And our LE2 was sitting right outside.) Then the next ad, back to back, was for Oliver. Wow. We all hollered. Very nice ad.

The RUUVI tags work very well. I got four after reading about them on this forum. I have one in the fridge, one in the cabin next to the thermostat, one in the battery compartment and one in the basement. They seem to be very accurate and allow me to know what's going when I'm in the TV or walking around outside.

hi @Dennis and Melissa, thanks for posting this. we're also going to Arkansas after a service visit at the mothership in mid-January. It's terra incognita for me so the responses to your post will be helpful for us too. Maybe we'll even run into you.

Even with a "Code 20" on my wall mounted remote, I find that it does work to turn the inverter on and off. I did figure out how to reset the wall mounted remote to get rid of the Code 20 which I posted a few months ago. The main problem with the Code 20 is that I can't connect my Xantrex phone app to the remote, so I can't change the charging rate, etc. But if I'm boondocking for a few days, it's no big deal.

I've got a 2020 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4 with a 3.0 diesel. Since starting with the Ollie E2 (15k miles so far on the trailer) I've averaged 15.8 mpg.

Wow. Thank goodness you caught this before anything more serious. Whenever I'm on shore power, I have a habit of periodically putting my hand on different parts of the cable to feel for heat. I try to do it whenever I leave or return to the trailer after having been out.

now i'm curious!

Looking for some feedback from owners who've had the treatment on their trailers. I'm hoping to take my LE2 to the mothership for a service in January and was thinking about going over to Murfreesboro for the CGI. Their website says $3k for an LE2. Seems like a lot. Up until now I've been washing and waxing with marine products every 6 months. I store my trailer outdoors, no covers. They say it's a 2 year Glidecoat ceramic coating. Then I'd need to do it again?

The only settings that I change on the Xantrex phone app are the "breaker rating" and "charger current". If I'm at a site with a good 30a outlet, I'll turn the breaker rating all the way up to 25a or 30a, but if I'm using a little 120v outlet (like at a friend's house) I dial that back to 10a or even 5a to make sure I don't trip their breaker. The charger current gets dialed back accordingly. A third thing I've changed is the "custom absorption voltage". I was having a hard time getting the batteries all the way up to 100% SOC. They seemed to stop at 97% or 98%. I contacted Lithionics and they told me to change the custom absorption voltage to 14.6v, which I did, and haven't had that problem since.

Congrats! You went through the same process as me (and probably a lot more owners) of researching, thinking, renting SOB trailers and ultimately deciding to get it now rather than wait. The learning curve on the Ollie with all the various systems can be steep but don't let it ever get you down. Think of the glitches as steps to becoming a master of your trailer. I've got around 15k on mine and I'm still learning plenty of how to keep it up and running, thanks to the forums, the OTT service center and of course, trial and error! lol

Thanks @Steph and Dud B for the response. Regarding condensation, my problem was definitely not condensation. I regularly wipe down the inside of the windows and tracks when I wake up while cold weather camping, so I know what's normal when it comes to that. This was a definite rain intrusion. I wish I could find a schematic of the window to better understand how the pieces fit together and how my quick fix could redirect water elsewhere. I did check the spaces under the streetside hatches and found the in-between spaces dry, at least from what I could see and feel. I didn't remove any of the insulation to check under. Again, very mysterious.

Thanks @Geronimo John for the response. I was able to catch the leak pretty early on without the mattress getting too wet. I was on shore power so I put my space heater up toward the affected part and dried it out successfully. But I'll continue to check. Nobody wants mold/mildew!

Thanks @DavePhelps for the response. I was a Canadian dollar store the other day and saw a pack of pipe cleaner things in the craft section and thought, hey, I'll get some and try them. I put them in last night during a heavy rain and did notice the wicking action. Yes, they really work and I'll be using them in the future during rain. Regarding the point of intrusion, it's hard to believe that water entering from the rear Oliver light or marker light could travel forward all the way to the window, but hey, I'll tape them off and try anything.

Update.... I put a bead of silicone caulk in a place I'm not sure how to describe. It's where the aluminum window frame screws up against the interior hull window opening. I covered the horizontal gap, the vertical gap under the window center post, and even wiped some caulk around some of the screws/bolts that hold the frame in place. I had some rain last night, and I'm in the middle of an electrical storm at the Bay of Fundy right now, and no water is coming in. I'm happy, the problem seems to be fixed, but I don't understand it. The other windows don't leak. What happened to this one window that caused the problem. It's a mystery. But a dry mystery! Lol.