Hokieman

The 5200 lb de-rated axles make sense, he didn’t elaborate. Apologies for the confused statement on the disc brakes, I was referring to the 2022 models. My salesperson said that disc brakes are not an option on the 2022 models that are being ordered now. Perhaps they will be an option on later models. Just passing on the information I was told, I recommend it be confirmed by any prospective buyers.

My guess is Oliver Production has great wiring diagrams. They just don’t want us to have them, don’t understand why. I plan to pester whatever management I can locate when I take delivery early May. In the meantime, Ive downloaded the 2019 version. If you don’t have the Solar Pro package, I would assume it was nearly the same. If there are significant changes, please share. Thanks.

My Salesperson, Josh, told me 2 weeks ago that 2022 models of LE2 come standard with Dexter 3500 lb axles, drum brakes and sealed bearings. 5000 lb axles are available as an upgrade. Disc brakes are not an option they are offering at this time.I’d suggest you confirm these details if you are looking to get a 2022.

Wife & I have reservations for 3 days. We are scheduled for delivery of our second Oliver on May 7. If all goes well at Davy Crockett we plan to meander down the Natchez Trace & loop back to site E41. Looking forward to sharing ideas and potential future modifications based on meeting you all!

In Florida, we have no annual property tax. We pay a one-time sales tax, in my county it’s 7% total. Annual tag and registration fee is < $50. I don't know if you can license your Oliver here if you are not a resident. They validate my drivers license when I register a vehicle.

I had the same tires you have on my Elite I. I followed advice on this forum from experienced owners, kept them at 55psi. As expected, the trailer rode much softer, good wear, no fallen window shades, no parts rattling loose. I checked the temps at every stop, never got above warm. I’m just guessing, but this is just one of those issues that many OTT owners seem to disagree with Oliver. When I get my new Elite II in a few months, I’m going to air the tires down to 55 before or shortly after I leave the lot.

Retracting this suggestion. I just received an explanation from AndrewK. It seems Oliver can’t modify the door due to RVIA requirements for areas where batteries are stored. They can’t even sell the door without holes. Easiest option is plug the holes and insulate the compartment. Andrew was able to get some of the fiberglass hole plugs from Oliver.

Agree with Bill. I’ve got a 2019 F150, scheduled for pickup after you. Attached is a photo of the sticker on the bottom of my receiver. Also a link to an article about the legal requirements. In the unfortunate event of a crash, insurance companies are not responsible to pay if OEM specifications are not followed. http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/expert-advice/1703-tow-ratings-and-the-law-discussing-limits-of-trailer-size/

My 2019 Elite was about 20” level, after the trailer weight is out on it, everything fully loaded. Dave Phelps was similar. No Andersen WD hitch. I think that I read the Elite II has more ground clearance, not sure. Your truck will sag when you put your cargo in the bed and fill with gas, and add the trailer tongue weight, loaded with all your stuff. How much your new Rebel will sag I cannot say, but my 2019 F150 FX4 sagged several Inches. I used a Reese Towpower ball mount 2” drop. Looks something like this. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45036.html If you want to splurge, you could go with something like this which is height adjustable and includes a weight scale. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Weigh-Safe/WS4-25.html I’ve never owned one so you might seek the opinion of someone who has. Whatever you buy, make sure the ball is already mounted and torqued correctly, you don’t want to deal with that on the road. Don’t forget the pin that secures it in the receiver, and consider hitch locks. See previous post on the hitch height, it shows a pic of how it was measured, as well as comments on tongue weight. I never weighed mine, but SeaDawg had a fugure of 420# loaded, Dave Phelps was 450.

Update to my post earlier. Oliver Sales got back to me this morning and confirmed that the option to get Solar Panels & Controller is limited to either (4) 6V AGM batteries upgrade or (4) 12V Wet Cell upgrade. So there is an additional cost either way, and the (4) 12V Wet Cell option is not appealing. I was also advised my warranty on any electronics could be in jeopardy if I DIY my own LiFePO4 project. Based on this, I am going with RB's suggestion and selected the Solar Pro package, my wife will be happy she has an inverter. Several years from now, when the AGM's give up, I will have learned much from all the experts on this forum and will have a better plan forward.

From the 2021 Build Worksheet: 1) Lithium Pro Package - $8999 2) Solar Pro Package - $4999 3) Solar Panels & Controller - $2799 I’m considering Option 3 and doing the mods I explained above. I called Oliver a few days ago to confirm the details of this $2799 option, don’t have the answer yet. I assume Oliver will install the standard deep cycle lead acid batteries, but not sure. If not, I’ll go with Solar Pro package as RB suggests and upgrade to LiFePO4 when the AGMs need replacement in several years. As RB also suggests, I’ll have a better understanding then of what my boondocking requirements are, and I assume the cost of LiFePO4 batteries will be going down and technology improving. My experience so far is that Oliver is not flexible on their options or customization. What they tell me they will do is post-production modifications through the Service Dept. at extra cost. I have not made up my mind yet, I’m leaning toward the Solar Pro package and just be done with it. My wife wants the 2000W inverter.

I have a suggestion for those of you who are considering ordering the Lithium Pro package on a new Oliver. I noticed on the Oliver website photos, the battery box is not insulated, and has vent holes cut in it. These might be old photos. Since LiFePO4 batteries do not vent hazardous gasses, but have some temp restraints, the vents are a detriment to the design. I understand the LifeBlue have internal heaters built in, but no need to activate them for no reason. Perhaps Oliver have corrected this design oversight, but you might consider requesting it. It shouldn’t cost anything, it will save them the trouble of cutting vent holes and installing screens. The insulation is cheap and easy. The notion to check on this came to me when I read an earlier post by AndewK. Andrew converted to LiFePO4 and he plugged up those vent holes himself and insulated the battery compartment with the same material Oliver uses. He now has no trouble charging his batteries in sub freezing temps. That was a smart mod on his part. Perhaps the Oliver Service Dept. will sell ventless doors if requested for those that have or want to convert from AGM.

Jordanv...I’m in a similar situation, getting closer to build date and finalizing options. I’ve got another solar option for you to consider, originally suggested by John Davies in in a July post (link below). I’ve asked Oliver to sell me the solar panel and controller option, but just install the standard lead-acid batteries at no extra cost. No response yet, I have to trace them. If it works out, I will then swap the batteries for 2 x 100AH Battleborn, a Victron smart shunt, a Blue Seas battery cutoff switch.. My understanding is current versions of Zamp controller and PI Converter are selectable for LiFePO4. Down the road I may upgrade the controller for a Victron MPPT, and room in the battery tray for a 3rd battery if needed. I’ll sell the new lead acid batteries on Craigslist, lots of golf carts where I live. I think I’ll opt out of the inverter for now, I own a small Honda generator. AndrewK has shared a few posts with photos of his excellent install of similar setup, and several others have done likewise.

SherMica.....I sold my 2019 LE1 a few months ago (loved it, LE2 on order). As far as I know, nothing has changed with the layout except some installed component brands such as the awning,TV, cell booster, wheel style, etc. Your Sales rep can confirm. See the following link for pics of my 2019 LE1: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0K5oqs3qGxxgV5

Agreed, my suggestion was about checking the hitch specs, and proceed with caution, especially with the basket.

I had no trouble towing my LE1 with my 2019 F150 without a WD hitch. But one day I was under the truck and I noticed the label on the hitch shown in the pic. Rated for 1160 lbs with WD hitch, 500 lbs with tongue. You might want to check yours, it could be similar. You may pushing the limit, especially if you put anything in the basket.

Susan....Another option is to go with a hard cover that also locks down over the tailgate, and won’t allow the tailgate to open without a determined break-in. One type I know about is from Undercover. https://undercoverinfo.com/undercover-se I’ve had 3 of these over the past 20 years on my work trucks, every one of them outlasted the trucks. They can support several hundred pounds, I’ve stood on them many times. People frequently mount bike racks on them. I’ve got a newer personal truck as a TV and I need to get a cover also. I’ve been looking at the Diamondback SE, I now have a locking tailgate. I might just settle for the less expensive Undercover or another brand and get a portable 12v fridge/freezer with the savings. Btw a small solar panel can be easily mounted on a hard cover to power a 12v battery and fridge.

The dinette bed is ideal for a child, in the Elite I or II, so that's where we plan to sleep the grandchildren. We only have one granddaughter right now, so no problem. Im still researching next steps, but one idea is to buy a hard-shell RTT Roof Top Tent, such as this one (made in USA). https://www.roosttents.com, mount it over the bed of my Ford F150, perhaps on a Rack system such as this one https://www.leitnerdesigns.com When one of my 5 grown children and their significant others wants to come on vacation with us, they can fly out to meet us, we will pick them up at the airport and will have all the camping "stuff" they need. We will let them sleep in the RTT, parked well away from us. if they have more than one grandchild, they will probably have to bring a tent.

Mark, My earlier measurement was too high. My wife and I finally got the camper on the road for a few days of camping. I checked the measurement again with a fully loaded truck and trailer. Trailer had empty tanks but truck had full tank of gas, all level. It was right around 20”, just like Dave’s photo. Hope this helps! Love that camper! Mike

Mark, I loaded it up and measured with truck bed empty but full tank of gas. Trailer was empty. I measured 22.5” from ground to top of ball. It looked level but I did not have my level with me to confirm. There are several threads on this, you might start at link below. This has a reference to Oliver spec being 22.5”. When I get a chance to get it all loaded up and trip ready, I’ll repeat the process. Hokieman

Hi Mark, My wife and I have an Elite I, bought it in March 2020. Haven’t used it yet, waiting for the green light. I did tow it several hundred miles to get it to my home, it towed very easily, and level. Stock Bulldog hitch, no Andersen option. I did not measure the tongue weight, because I have not loaded it up yet with supplies. I think I have the same truck you do, 2019 model model, stock wheels and tires, tow package, stock electric brake controller. I used a Reese Towpower S/S draw bar with 2” drop that kept it very level, both truck and trailer empty. Sag was not even noticeable. I’ll put the Reeses drawbar in the receiver and measure from ground to top of ball with the truck bed empty. I’ll let you know, this should get you in the ballpark. I also have a new adjustable Weighsafe drawbar that I have not used yet, I plan to use that one from now on. Once I get the truck and trailer loaded, I’ll give you a much better answer. Mike Sent from my iPad