johnwen

Hi Ken, Do you by chance have a part # for those Bulldogs? Is it 1213-0656 ? John

Welcome Craig and MaryLou! MAX Burner is so right about all the info found in this wonderful forum. Happy Trails, Wendy & John

Have FUN!!!

Ask Melissa to show you her dogs, they are a treat :) We stay there when we get OTT service. John PS The LED fan is installed... :) Thanks!

Thank you..........

Nice blog GG :) John

Follow up... the propane sensor went off this AM and turns out the gas line connection came a little loose when I reinstalled the top. Turned off the propane bottle and headed to Ace hardware. I initially used tape that qualified, according to the label, as suitable for gas line connections. It was gray in color. I didn't have the yellow that I have always used before. Took back apart this afternoon and replaced with the proper yellow tape. All is well for now...according to my sniffer. John

We found 2 in our top drawer :) They push through the hole too easily. John

Thank you I admit being a little "slower" than the average Ollie person and after reading your post I checked my overheads ... EUREKA...I would never have thought to look there for a replacement. Mine are not threaded but they are a direct match and we now have a "new" hatch for our dog house. The 3 little tabs on the original broke off and I was lucky to have it not blow off while traveling. I used some of my high dollar glue I got at Quartzsite this year to fashion some tabs to keep the hatch in place in the overhead. John

Thanks for the walkthrough. Both screws from underside one burner came out...very fortunate Wendy found them both and we were able to use your help to fix everything. I did have to disconnect the gas line and after using gas thread tape and follow up with a "sniffer" all turned out well. We did use blue locktite on the screws. No evidence of previous locktite application Thanks, John

Thanks for all your work! John

Mine is TST and I trust the readout for the spare...so far :)

Thanks...good to know. Mine shows different pressures and temperatures from day to day (for the spare), so I'm hoping it isn't a bogus reading. Next time I have the cover off I'll compare the readout with a gauge. My sensor is external and on the stem. John

Yep...

We have the same tires...if I can them to ever wear out I'll probably switch over to metal stems then. 37,000+ miles and going strong (probably just jinxed myself ) John

Really didn't think about my elect. cord... I'll start disconnecting. Thanks.

Thanks, Bill. I was just going back to the beginning of this thread from 2017 to find the string description...you saved me some time :) although I think I'll finish the thread for fun...I need to find out if Steve (not pickin' on you Steve :)) is still eating bugs :) :) :)

Thanks for the encouragement, Mike. Reckon I'll try to find some replacement string soon as I'm trying to make plans for the Maine rally and maybe someone there has attempted this ... I may need supervision.

Well, now that a second blind broke a string, I had better get busy with a new plan (Stan) :) John

Thank you...I use JB Weld as well and will sand and cross hatch as you suggest. Makes sense :) John

I'm looking for something to glue to the inside lower shell of my trailer to mount (screw) my Victron MPPT controller to. Anyone know what Oliver uses? Many items are attached throughout the trailer using that stuff. It's about 1/2 inch thick and painted? white. Any help is much appreciated. John

We do deflect to the right up here :)

Installed and operating. I removed the Beech Lane mounting brackets and made sure that I installed the fans so they would blow air out. I used a screw from the mounting bracket to anchor the top right corner of the fans and stainless screw on the lower left. The 2 metal triangles are cut and shaped from a rafter tiedown from local hardware store. They rest on the plastic grill mount very well and prevent the fans from dropping down as the whole fan assembly resides behind the plastic grill mount. I added the screw, bottom left, to keep fans from bouncing up when driving and then falling downward. Same for the top right screw that was original screw from the fans mounting brackets. The small clip was just a piece of strapping metal with predrilled holes. It fits under the plastic grill mount very nicely. I used some wire loom material behind the tubing and fins to mitigate fraying/rubbing of the wires. The temporary tape holding the thermistor will be replaced by a couple of clamps now that I know what's behind the slant board. I had to slide the microwave out to see what was behind it. Lots of room there. BTW my microwave has 6 screws on its faceplate to remove but I had to also remove 2 more screws, not visible from the outside, to get the plate off. I had to shimmy the unit side to side and slide the microwave out and remove those 2 screws. I probably could have kept the faceplate on but the plate seemed like it could be easily bent, so off it came. I drilled a hole through the MDF slant board large enough to accommodate the controller's connecting clip and decided to use the hole provided for the microwave power plug in the overhead compartment. I fished the connecting end of the controller through the microwave power plug hole and out through the slant board. I temporarily taped in place at a distance to reach the fans power leads. My power comes from the power and ground wires from the covered junction box, seen next to my fingers in one of the photos. I used WAGU connectors and reconnected to where they were originally destined. Please feel free to critique my electrical work(and any other areas)...I'm not an electrician...so far so good. It works as advertised in both auto and manual. I'm operating in manual at 70%-80% as I can't hear from inside the cabin and it eliminates frequent speed changes seen in auto. Thanks for everyone's help!!!

As usual...very good advice. It does get easier the more you use it. We usually remove the Andersen chains (and whale tail) and stow in the truck any time we stop for 2 nights or more, so we get plenty of practice connecting and disconnecting :) John