johnwen

JD, After changing the setting I disconnected shore power and this time all worked fine. Last (and only) time the inverter came on for a few seconds and shut off. Maybe something else was going on...but for now it's ok. Will check again at the "Q". Thanks for the help :) John

JD, not that it matters much but my unit is a 2000w pro. I will retest now.

I'll look you up JD...thanks :)

After installing a bluetooth control panel I tried this procedure and found I could not start the inverter without shore power. Once connected to shore power I regained control of the inverter after changing the setting back to "off". Probably have another setting set wrong.

Thanks, JD...all makes sense. I think I may stay with my Xanrex 2000w unit for the time being. I'm planning to get 2x300 ah Epoch essentials and install at Quartzsite. I want to also remove my battery tray (it is shot) and clean up the wiring. And also explore dc to dc from my alternator. I am hoping for much input from fellow campers at the "Q". It is great to know I can switch charging off at night on the Victron...can't do that with my Xantrex. John

Thanks, JD :)

Mike Did you notice a difference in the fan noise of the Xantrex vs the Victron? My 2000w Xantrex fan puts out a noticeable noise when charging and when cycling through its odd systems check...24 minutes off and 8 minutes on when on shore power.

You were able to fit 2 460a Epochs in the battery cave with the battery tray removed? My tray bearings are shot anyway. Can you take a picture of your install? Are you by chance coming to Quartzsite? Thanks, John

We did this to our Casita and Oliver...quite an improvement but some of the tinyest,unidentified critters still manage to infiltrate. We are happy we did this modification and do recommend it! :) Best of luck, John

Mine needed adjustment as well, one time, I found the valve didn't fully close as I could push it down a little. A lot of good ideas listed here....especially black vs grey. The only thing I can add is that my black tank handle offered some resistance (sprung back out a half inch or so) when I pushed the handle in and I found that holding the handle in for about 5 seconds was enough to allow that long cable to offer enough pressure to fully close the valve and the handle did not try to spring back out. We also switched to the Calgon beads/ Pinesol /water solution to clean and lubricate the tanks and blade valves and the handle seems a little smoother to operate. So far so good ") John

Congrats!! Safe travels

Happy Thanksgiving

Just got our D21 replacement today...no blue locktite, whatsoever, on the screws on the new unit purchased from Dometic. I loosened the new stove's screws and put on red locktite, hoping it never loosens in the future!

I went with red after drilling out the burner cover and installing bolt through the top with nuts below. But my threads were trashed so I redrilled the holes slightly larger and installed bolt with nut and red locktite...not caring if ever I can get back apart as I'll replace the whole stovetop with sob. I could cut the bolt head off if absolutely necessary. Thanks per SNY SD UP :)

Just a long shot here Kirk...do you remember the bolt dimensions? I will modify as you did (bolt holes are now stripped). Thanks John

Welcome from #996...hope to "see ya'll out there" someday. John

I so agree, Bill....just trying to offer an alternative. I've seen the comparison...many have not. I agree with slick and shiny!

How do you like the Trim Lok seal? Our original seal is starting to look a little raggedy. John.

Ron, I was going to point that out :) While my experience has been mostly observing tire marks, it does make sense that oil/grease could also be forced to the road. In any event, I see them coming slightly ahead of time and am now slowing when I approach them. I was thinking that trucks with adjustable axles, such as cement trucks that lower their additional axles when fully loaded, were the culprit as I've seen some pretty low to the road when not fully retracted. But I'll have to defer to Google :) Thanks for the info.. John

Ditto...I can't keep up with waxing like I did with our Casita. We just had our 2nd treatment and it looks as good or better than the 1st. We also had or 2019 Silverado treated. It is possible to clean both vehicles in less than 2 1/2 hours (by a 71 year old) :) I do stay up with bug removal on 90% of our stops every travel day. We do full time so that's a lot of bugs!!! We probably average 3 "wipe downs" a month. The CGI guys are TOP SHELF! You won't be disappointed with their work. They are as hard working and courteous a team as I have encountered. "Is CGI ceramic coating worth it?" If they didn't offer the reduced rate on subsequent visits, I would probably wait for 3 to 4 years, instead of 2, for retreatment. The work is not cheap but it's our home and I just can't keep up with the waxing anymore. Our Casita was difficult to keep shiny and void of oxidation with my waxing attempts. For us...yes it's worth it. If you are happy with your results with the marine products then maybe no for you. You could always go to them at a later time if you find out it's becoming too hard to keep up. I would offer this suggestion...find a trailer that has been done by CGI and compare it to your trailer right after you finish your clean and wax job. Best of luck with your decision, John

GJ We are all over the country and we encounter those massive dips in many states but mostly in Louisiana. We strive to use roads other than interstates but have to use the interstates every once in a while. I'll slow to 60 (from 62) while traveling and give much more respect to those dark streaks on the roads. They almost always indicate a dip worth respect. At times the TV bottoms out on the front end and I feel as though the trailer has at times come close to weightlessness. I'm anxious get the shocks replaced on the truck (121000+ miles) and start out again in January. Will update the forum early next year. John "lead me to believe the failure was during compression of the shock and then when the trailer came back down and bounced off the highway/road, the shock would be extending with extreme force. Likely the structural failure occurred as the bottom separated from the top of the shock." I think you are correct, sir :)

Just to be clear about this picture...these are Oliver stock shocks on Oliver stock springs on Oliver stock 3500lb axles taken off at 42000 miles. Both from the front axle with one severely cupped tire and one lightly to moderately cupped. Rear tires were fine but replaced anyway. John

GJ, I read your link...I needed 2 beers before I understood that I don't understand :( "Tau" and "race sag" did me in I quit reading toward the end of the article when I realized I will not be able to change the shocks oil viscosity... John

Yes