SeaDawg

I guess the elephant in the room is--what does the furnace grate actually do, in a ducted furnace?

And, since the compartment is pretty much isolated, it wouldn't function as a return for your furnace, anyway.

The idea, from my understanding, is to isolate everything in the fridge compartment as much as possible. I know I've had cold air come in from outside around my 3way fridges, too. The heat from the back of the fridge vents thru the upper vent. Adding another vent will (possibly/ probably) cause refrigeration issues, as the proper airflow is necessary to remove the heat and create the cold. The actual burner (outside) was isolated, in mine.

The learning center at Blue Sky is great. So is their customer support. Ryan has answered all of our questions over the years. Bluesky support (760) 208-2149

Generally speaking, rv 3 way fridges are set up in their own separate compartment, with one vent low, and one vent high (either in the sidewall, or roof.) That's why the fridge is sealed off from the sink cabinet with the access panel. I wouldn't recommend cutting a vent in the fridge compartment sidewall, creating a third vent. It could create issues with heat exhaust venting properly. I don't know if this is an rvia requirement, (probably is), but it's in the install manual for the dometic. Your other choice, under the dinette, would probably be better. But, I don't know the purpose of the existing vent on a ducted furnace. I've never owned one... Those of us who have installed 12v fridges have the opposite issue. We need venting to the cabin.

That's realky nice! Low angle sun and heat may still affect your tires. Looks like 5 to 6 ft. high open wall? I'd still cover the tires , imo.

I will move it to general discussion. Thanks for pointing it out, hbschof

Eleven years.

We changed our valve stems to metal when we added the tpms.

Is this a remote camping property? Or a driveway camping experience? We've done both, and lots if other experiences. Just helps to figure things out. Like, trash, power outlet, etc .

That's great! So much more helpful to a new shorty owner.

In the shorty, the duct doesn't run through the back of the trailer. The furnace has been moved to the dinette seat near the toilet room. I would open a drawer or access hatch, to provide heat to the interstitial space, imo, if temos dropped into the teens.

@Carl Hansen are you getting the Elite, or Elite II?

Just a thought--have you scrolled through the numerous exclusions on the Airstream standard original warranty? Or other manufacturers? Airstream exclusions are several pages long, including pretty much any appliance or other item warranted by the component manufacturer. https://support.airstream.com/hc/en-us/articles/360031206251-What-is-not-covered-in-the-Limited-Warranty-Policy- As far as transferring extended warranty, I have no idea if this is transferred or not. It was not offered in 2008, nor would we have purchased it, if it were.

I have many times suggested a small electric heater to extend propane tanks. As a supplement. The furnace makes a much bigger difference in the cavity heat, especially in the new ducted trailers. In our 2008 trailer, unless you leave access doors/drawers open, I'd worry that not enough heat was getting to the interstitial space to keep lines from freezing in really cold weather. I've never camped in one of the new, better insulated trailers, so I don't know if my comment is relevant. But, if under 20 or so, I'd set electric in low, open an access, and run the furnace on low, as well. My opinion. Owners of newer trailers, please add your thoughts.

Nicole, the full size (53 or 54 inches wide bed) is 6 inches wider than a lot of other small travel trailers (including many small airstreams). But, a queen is 6 inches wider, yet, at 60 inches. Adding 6 inches to the bed of an Elite would make the kitchen and small dinette super tiny and uncomfortable, or require an expensive mold redesign and change to add 6 inches to the trailer. I totally get it. We have a king at home. Used to have a queen, so the difference wasn't much. It still doesn't bother us. Especially during cold weather camping, the smaller cozy space is nice. Oliver doesn't really monitor this space, so you might want to send your suggestion in an email? Years ago, I used to say that if Oliver would make a little larger trailer, with a queen bed and a bigger fridge, I'd consider trading up. At this point, I don't think I would. We love our 13 year old trailer. It may not be "perfect " for us, but it's pretty close. Sherry

Several of us use the Pur. Some use Brita, but I think Pur filters more contaminants. https://www.pur.com/why-pur/filter-comparison-pitcher

Carnivore, could you tell us, please, the year of your trailer, and type of ac and thermostat you have? Thanks.

Now, wouldn't those photos bring a new dimension to "four season" camping?

When that happens, it's time to plane new routes, see new places. Or, revisit favorites.

I'll second Bill's recommendation of Blue Springs Campground. Jackson County operated. Super clean. Decent space between most sites. You won't see the lake, it's wooded, and the lake is aways away. The camping world 30 minutes away in Grain City was really good to work with. Unfortunately, the campground probably won't be open in March.

Collier and Joan, Thanks for letting us know how your problem resolved. This will definitely help others, in the future.

It's quite true that closed cell foam provides better insulation, as John says, by 50 per cent, or even better, r value, dependingon the material. And, a better long term choice. We're also looking at things people "might have on hand."

Funny. I just got back from a trip to Ace. I love my local Ace, too. Saves so many trips to bigger box stores! (And the staff in the store actually know where everything is, and often even how to use it.) I think your soft squishy foam would work. I keep some cutoffs from a memory foam mattress pad, and some pipe insulation, around. I really like topgun's insulation ideas.