SeaDawg

Yes, it is a serious number. Especially with our small trailers, and 2 batteries. Solar helps, but in crummy weather, or shade, you have to plan for that loss.

I see. Since your code 10 was "not working on 110," the tech had you reset breakers. Logical. Not sure, since you lost the call, if you actually reset the breaker to the fridge or not. If you are plugged in, and 110 appliances (microwave, portable heater), etc, are working, and breakers have been reset, properly, I also would have suggested looking for the pigtail plugged into the 110 outlet, as the Oliver tech did. In my trailer, it's just removing a drawer. In yours, it sounds like an access panel. Sorry for that. Sounds to me like he followed a logical process. (Well, my process, anyway) 3 way fridges aren't like home fridges. They work on an absorption theory, instead of a compressor, like a home fridge. It's an old process, but unfamiliar to those who haven't used the technology. Glad you're working ok on battery. Propane is more efficient. If you get the code 10 at the next campsite, try the propane instead of dc. It cools far better. Until you get it sorted out. With our much older Norcold, there was a complicated reset if resetting the breaker, or removing all power for a time, didn't do the trick. Not something to do at the end of a day's drive. I don't know about your specific model, but, since it's norcold, may be the same/similar. While driving, I'd turn the unit to "off", rather than electric or auto, if you're not comfortable driving on propane. Auto on some norcold fridges sends you to dc, and that can drain your batteries in the trailer. At least it did on ours, when we had a 3 way Norcold. The fridge is power hungry on dc/battery. We're one of those who drive with the fridge on propane (age old debate). Not everyone is comfortable with driving with the fridge on propane. Just turn the fridge to "off," if not. Unless you're in extreme heat, a few hours in off with a loaded fridge is usually fine.

Did you drive all day with the fridge set to electric instead of set to off or propane? That would probably trigger the code. Try turning the fridge off for awhile, then try running it on propane. Are you plugged into 110 now? Is 110 working elsewhere in the trailer? (Like, does your little electric heater work?)

I believe the kitchen is the same depth in the two models, but the Elite kitchen is not as wide, so I doubt the drawer dimensions are all the same. The older Elite 1 models, with the furnace in the kitchen, have an even different configuration. So, measuring mine wouldn't help you at all.

Some of the links don't work from old forum versions. If the 2008 thread is what you're looking for, this is it:

That looks like a great spot. Enjoy! Are all the lakeside spots no hookups?

We collect our own water from rainwater, at home. We power our home (and boat, and trailer) with solar . Not enforceable, but not for amusement. Just always trying to maintain conservation values. 🙂 Even though we do, indeed, use more water at home. And, of course, more electricity. Our house is a bit bigger than our little Elite I trailer. 🙃

I know, unlikely we'd ever do an endless shower. Even at home, I set a timer.

We've only hooked up to city water a handful of times in 13 years. We fill the tank, and work from that. We recently bought a regulator, similar to the one franc posted. Thinking/hoping we will get to travel more, if we land at a full size hookup someday, might even be able to check out that "endless shower" with our instantaneous water heater.

I just looked at your forecast. There is a travel advisory for Monday. I'd just stay put, if I were you. Call Oliver on Monday morning. I know you're running out of data, so I'll text you.

We travel with a tiny dog, and no bikes. Just happy to see that you're flexible, for a little dog. Our dog is an international traveler. And, a total princess 👸

I would plug in, if possible. Agm batteries do not love living below full charge. Once you have a full charge, 13.2 ish, they'll be fine. I would look for ghost draws. We narrowed ourselves from over 1 amp to .4

BoB, from what you have said, I agree. If I were Sheri, I would drive in in Monday, and get a better connection . From what I see, from the photos, the disconnect "would" probably work. I don't like it either, but it should work in an emergency. I'd want to get it replaced

So, if you hook up, think you're good, pull ahead 20 feet, and check. You'll see. If you're on the ball, all is tight. I wish I were there to see, but the only way you can engage the collar lock is if you are TOTALLY missing the ball connection.

If your breakaway is connected with proper distance, your emergency brakes will engage, should your trailer "break away ." Thats the purpose of the cable.

Safety breakaway wires are necessary. But, very rarely used. I towed thousands of miles with my dad, without ever needing them. But, when you do, you do. You're fine, going 30 miles to Hohenwald, to check it out. Check your connections when you hitch up. The bulldog is pretty much foolproof, imo. If you are hitched, have the collar lock on place, you're golden. You can't lock the collar if you're not hitched properly. At least, I don't know how you can screw it up. Don't think I could

We keep one day's laundry in a small bag in the bathroom. The rest goes into two ikea bags in the truck bed, presorted. We empty daily.

What day is your appointment in texas?

I can't tell what your distance is, from your photos If I remember correctly, you should have 24 inches of play. You have time. Take it. Use it Take your trailer back in next week, talk to Jason, and get it right. If it's wrong.

You can usually bring gelcoat back with fine rubbing compound, and buffing, waxing etc. Gelcoat isn't a paint, or a coating. It's fiberglass, without the "fiber", and sprayed onto the mold before the rest of the fiberglass is built up. The gelcoat on our trailer is marine grade, fairly thick, and you'd be surprised at what some buffing and waxing can do. Even when it looks chalky and tired.

Looking at the manual for the new Girard power awning, I don't see an attached patio screen room being a very good idea, even if you made one.. At the least, you would have to somehow disable the wind/motion sensor, or risk the awning rolling up on its own, with the screen room attached, which could certainly cause some serious damage. I think a Clam, or something like it, would be your best option, with the new power awning.

I use a old thermal stainless pot from a defunct krups machine. And a big drip cone from Amazon. If you really want steaming coffee to last, preheat the big pot (clean), with boiling water. Let it sit for a minute or two. Return water to the tea kettle. (Same procedure for thermal mugs) Reheat water. Make coffee. The preheated jug or cup keeps coffee hot much longer .

Pink stuff is rv antifreeze. Orange and blue are the typical colors for rv tank treatment.

I saw that someone "liked" this good thread, so I thought I'd bring it back up for discussion. Over the years, I've definitely "culled" the essentials. We travel with some empty cupboard and truck bed space, years in. We carry less every year.

Btw, your toilet probably came with a little bottle of tank treatment. Put most of it down the toilet, but put a quarter down the bathroom sink. The odors will go away, even for those of us with hypersensitive noses, if the shower floor is now clean. Um, when you treat the toilet, open the valve/hole by depressing the pedal at the bottom of the toilet. It will close when you let off the pedal. Ps. Put an inch or so of water in the bowl from a jug, if you still haven't connected to water. There is a rubber seal around the valve at the bottom of the bowl that likes to stick, if it's left without water or rv antifreeze in it. After every dump, you'll need to add a little toilet tank treatment to keep everything happy. An ounce ot so of the orange liquid, or one pod if the pod packets is quite enough. The inexpensive orange liquid at Walmart is fine.