Ray and Susan Huff

I just checked our inverter main display and it shows the following which doesn't look like what Jason said, which is "U3 01 06". He is having us do reset the inverter to see if it fixes the problem.

Our 2021 Elite II has the new (upper image) remote display. Hull #699 with Lithium Pro/3000W inverter.

I hadn't heard from Oliver about the 20 error code so I sent Jason a message through the service ticket portal. Our ticket has been classed as "on hold". I now see it is labeled as "open". Jason's response: Hey Susan, I just received some new information from Xantrex on how to perform a reset and check the software. Remove AC & DC Power - Disconnect shore power and trip the 200a Inverter breaker located under the street side bed area. Wait about 2 minutes Reset the 200A Breaker to allow DC power back to the inverter Turn the Inverter on at the remote display Scroll thru the settings to verify software U3 01 06 at the main display located under the streetside bed Double check the remote display to ensure it also shows the U3 01 06 software At this time I don't have a failed remote to test this on so I am depending on Xantrex. I do have a customer who has already performed this and it has resolved the issue so far. I'm preparing to do the reset but want to confirm that I have the correct breaker (located under the street side bed on the wall of the battery compartment) Jason said "200A" but this is 300A. Is this correct: Push the red button to disconnect; the red lever on the bottom to the left of the button will pop out; push the lever back in to reset? I hope this resolves the problem with the remote panel not functioning. Also: there is another similar breaker switch (60A) attached to the top of the wheel well. Can someone tell me what this is for?

Sorry, I can't say what it is, but it looks like the same material attached to the sides of our attic where the 12v receptacle, 12v socket/USB charging ports (curbside) and the surge protector display (street side) are mounted. The panels appear to be bolted to the interior hull.

We have a portable single "burner" induction cooktop that I use at home that we plan to use in the Oliver. With our Lithium pro pkg and a generator, this is entirely possible. However, I would not want to give up the propane cooktop as I like having as many options as possible, especially when it comes to cooking. Examples: we generally carry a small portable LP tank, a Jet Boil Genesis Base Camp two burner stove, and a portable gas grill - appliances we have accumulated for various camping situations. It's nice to be able to cook outdoors, especially in warmer weather. We chose the no microwave option for our Elite II; instead we have a Breville Mini Smart toaster oven, which serves as an oven and can be used in an outdoor kitchen setup. We have yet to camp in warm enough climate to cook outside and have not experienced a moisture problem cooking inside with the propane cooktop. Ventilation is key and the Maxair fan is more than sufficient to remove any moisture resulting from cooking indoors. It is an improvement over the Fantastic rain-sensor Fan in our Leisure Travel Van. It was not reversible so only pulled air in, and the rain sensing function was annoying. We are very happy with our Oliver as outfitted. I wouldn't anticipate Oliver adding many new options as they streamline production during high demand so as not to compromise quality and customer service. Perhaps when the pandemic subsides and the RV market returns to "normal" upgrades such as induction cooktops and compressor fridges will be offered. Edit: I'd like to add that even on shore power, you have to be aware of how many high wattage appliances you use concurrently. Sometimes this can be tricky.

This is true, about the electric/water connections. We have found some that are situated so it is difficult to connect to both power and water; usually it's the water bib.

1. Loading isn't as easy as when the trailer isn't attached, but possible, as you have to straddle the trailer frame. 50# e-bikes will be more difficult than our lighter bikes, for sure, but that would be the case with any rack where you have to raise the bike up that high. I'm not sure how you load them. 2. Turning radius is not impaired enough to be noticeable or a problem; maybe if you were to totally jack knife the trailer. 3. We don't use an Anderson or other anti-sway accessory 4. Your question regarding the 2 1/4" drop totally depends on the TV. Our F350 SD 4wd is not even affected by the weight of the trailer, rack and bikes. The dual hitch we use is just fine. If the drop doesn't work for you, there is no reasonable way to adjust the drop, that I can think of. When we decided to give this a try, I did some measuring and a bit of figuring, all before we even had our Oliver. Since we were lucky and found the hitch at 1/2 price, we basically took a chance, hoping it would work (which it did). We would have been disappointed if we were unable to use our 1up rack. One thing you do need to be aware of is this: there is only a small amount of clearance between the lowest point on the bike rack and the hitch latch on the Oliver. We usually lower the front of the trailer a bit, back the hitch nearly into position and then raise the front of the trailer and carefully drive under it (if that makes sense). After one or two times, this isn't hard to do.

Yes, I think this is the trick. Even with the water valve open, it seems to take a bit of pressure to pump anti-freeze into the water inlet.

I agree regarding the effects of additional weight on the rear of the trailer. You also need to consider the effects of it all on the bikes loaded in the rack.

How old is this sticker? I was told the limit has been increased to 150#. Call Oliver to check on this, though.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/D210.html Be sure you get the one rated for 7,500#. It is a 2" receiver; the drop to the ball is 2 1/4" which works perfectly with our 2013 F350 SD (4wd). It is a bit tricky latching the hitch as there is just barely enough clearance between the bottom of the 1up rack and the latch mechanism on the bulldog coupler. This might differ with a different rack, so you will need to measure carefully. Attached is a diagram of the hitch adapter. I got lucky when we ordered and it was 1/2 price!

We have the Helinox Sunset chairs and find them nicely portable and easy to set up and put away. One suggestion is that you get the optional ball feet. These make the chairs more stable on uneven ground and dirt campsites - a must if you boondock a lot. We have these and they work great. No need to remove them to put the chairs back in the bag.

I like the quilted cover . . . . not so much the wrap. If it's cold enough for that, I'll be inside wrapped in my down comforter. Note that these would not be suitable around a campfire. We added this accessory to our Helinox chairs. Makes them a lot more stable on uneven ground.

They could include it in the owners packet at delivery . . . . . or email. I wonder if the reason they don't is that the wiring changes throughout the model year.

Question: We have a neutral grounding plug for the generator, but I see the onboard PI surge protector has an on/off switch. Would it work to just turn off surge protection when running the generator or is that not a good idea?

Just in case anyone is having trouble finding a portable generator . . . . . . I received an email from Lowe's today saying they have Honda 2200i generators back in stock! And they will ship to your home. I quickly put one in my cart and ordered, before they were sold out again. I was afraid it would be like buying a used Ollie . . . . . if you hesitate, you lose. I am excited to have the means to charge our batteries. My husband said we didn't use our camper van generator much, so do we even need a generator? I say, with electric/water RV sites in short supply, we may be boondocking more this year. I convinced him by adding that it would come in handy on the ranch, as well. Much easier than toting around our not-so-portable 4K generator that he's been using. No stopping us now 😎 Edit: I forgot to mention that the generator that is now in stock at Lowes is the TAG (commercial model). The price is $50 more than the standard 2200i, but it has bluetooth connectivity, which will be nice; you can shut it off remotely, as well as monitor operation. Sounds good, in theory. We'll see how it works.

The biggest challenge, amidst the Pandemic, is finding a place to land; it certainly takes away the joy of spontaneity. I only hope that this challenge will be what separates the Covid Campers from the veterans. Living in the PNW, we are seeing a surge of RVs, especially from "down south". Fortunately we have more opportunities for boondocking and avoiding the crowds. Nevertheless, I expect the demand for camping sites will level off and return to something close to normal.

When I was researching the rear receiver, I was told by my sales agent that they had raised the weight limit to 150# Regardless, we did not opt for the rear receiver since our bike rack (1UP) is 2". We found a hitch to work between the pickup and the trailer

I have installed the suction cups; seems to work fine. A full size (tub-shower length) curtain covers the door and around the toilet to the front wall. I don't worry about the sink getting wet. I sewed a suction cup to each bottom corner of the curtain to help keep it in place. I haven't tried this yet in the Oliver, but it seemed to work well in our camper van "dry bath" shower/closet. I do like that this setup will allow me to shower with the curtain in place and the door open. I don't know if this hinders or improves ventilation, with both fans going and windows open a bit. I haven't had a chance to experiment; time will tell. Our shower curtain is a fabric one, so it dries quickly. Truthfully, how you approach the wet bath depends on how much you actually use the shower.

We chose Ultra-fabric for durability. We had the same in our camper van and it does live up to the name - "Ultra". My only complaint is that I tend to slide off the cushions as opposed to fabric upholstery, but the ease of cleaning is more of a draw for me. The rolled front cushions in @SeaDawg's photo above would eliminate the sliding. Maybe a future mod?

Looks like this breaker panel and this fuse panel

The rear dinette seat has the Progressive Dynamics Power Control Center (breaker box) and Fuse panel. I don't see any light display, though. The front dinette seat has 12v plug, USB plug, CO/LP monitor, and electrical outlet.

Where in relation to the PI surge protector display? All I can see in the attic is the outlet for the TV, USB/12v plug and the surge protector display. Both sides of the attic are faced with a rigid panel, set out a bit from the side wall with connecting bolts at the bottom. If there's a breaker panel there, it isn't easily accessible. However, I think I remember seeing two panels under the rear dinette seat. This brings up another question: Does anyone know what the HDMI and coax cables in the attic are for? I know they probably have something to do with the entertainment system, but what? We don't have the TV antenna or Satellite, just cable connection. I need to read the manual, I guess. It's just that I usually can't find the answer to my questions there 😠

Where are these lights? I realize you have a 2017 Elite II. Perhaps it's equipment is different than our 2021 model. Or could this be one of your infamous mods?

If you aren't taking your Oliver at least once every two months you are missing out . . . . .