SNY SD UP

I would definitely contact OTT Service. if you just had the “Full Monty” service then they should have noticed this.

"My Bad" but, I have found that if wifey starts a conversation with, "Honey, I think you need a tool to help you do this", she has my complete attention for the duration of the conversation, no matter what else we discuss... I think she realizes it too, as we have had some rather meandering (like what do tools have to do with making sure my daily work clothes are in the hamper on laundry day...) conversations, but I was paying attention to every word until we were done. Before we were married, my father told Maggie, "He is not hard of hearing, He is hard of listening..." Now I have hearing aids, and I still do not listen. 🤭 B~Out, I just heard the word "tool".

"The price for a horoscope varies from around $30 to hundreds of dollars. " Darn Spell-changer's... 🤣

Yes, Then you truly have a missing "knockout" as Craig astutely noticed, and again as he recommended you should let OTT service know by opening a ticket, and reporting such. Be sure to add your OTT model year to your salutation as that helps all responding better understand what the issue may be. B~Out

[Disclaimer I have no association with, or financial involvement with Garmin] Just now, Garmin "Cyclops update for North America software update" available, not sure if new, or the update was not downloaded and applied earlier. The Garmin RV890, If you use this to plan trips, be aware that it is a “Real-Time” device. By that I mean if you are actively planning a trip during the winter (Nov-Feb, Mar) months, to and through Alaska, the NWT, Northern Quebec, Labrador, or other places where the roads are not passable during the winter months, the RV890 will not allow you to route through these areas during those winter months but may re-route you many ,000 or mi/km via another route. At least has been my experience. As you get closer to your departure date and the routes you want to take are no longer impassable due to snow, the RV890 may (if you choose shortest distance option) allow you to route the trip the way you want to go. i.e., If planning a trip from FL to AK, and you plan on leaving in May, you may not have passable roads in parts of AK until late May, so you may have to wait until closer to AK to get the RV890 to take the route you want. I believe this was done to prevent RV890 users from being routed through unsafe routes, or worse. I do not know if these “Garmin” updates which come from time to time would update “seasonal” route openings/closings. My guess is if a route is blocked by a major land/mud slide and it is obvious it is not going to be passable for some time, then that information would “hopefully” be on a Garmin update. I do know when we were travelling to Tumbler Ridge, BC in ’23 or ’24 while it was in the early stages of a BAD FIRE, the only thing suggesting “not passable” were the Mounties actively closing roads behind us as we made it to the town, then exiting out our “pre-planned” route away from the active fire. By the time we were back to an area where we could check our RV890 for routing, the route in had not changed. B~Out

And when at a location that i can get a good iNet connection, i will check to see if any updates. I want to make sure that the "navigator" has most recent updates...

thank you Bill, I always check for updates before doing anything new on the RV890. One of the Checklist items before we leave is to check for updates. B~Out,

Have you done any mods to the duct work based upon "Snackchasers" post, if so i would look for a disconnect of ductwork from that port. Your Oliver is #1238 what year s/b on your signature? it would be interesting to see if the factory has changed the heater duct runs based upon Snackchasers changes... it appears as though Oliver has changed the open heater ports, so this one appears to be facing the galley, as you can see it from the galley access port. Back in 2020 (our model year) there was one open towards the rear, which must do a 180 to head towards the front of the trailer and one facing the front of the trailer. Our galley-side port still has its knock-out port intact. For me it was like a "Fun House" optical illusion for a minute until realized what i was seeing based upon my 2020 experience.... B~Out

i was wondering about that. i did not see any screws, glad I asked. here is a picture of my beveled connector collar. Did you twist & remove the connector collar to drill that hole? I accidently removed mine when working the elbow on to it. Took me 10 mins to get it inserted & locked in just right. that is why my foil tape is there to stabilize it, in case i go the "Screw the 180" route. Now i might bring my 180 with me and try to do that mod on the road if things are a bit chilly inside. Maggie said that she felt a lot of heat coming out of the shower exhaust next to the TP caddie. i was reading but did not catch if you mentioned, Did you replace any pex to move the line that is "Right in the WAY!!!" to connect the under the bed exhaust vent? Boy-h-boy, they sure did want us to have a nice 45 elbow in there. The way i see it is, if i can move the water line, then i can have a Rigid Tee in there on the way to the Kitchen Exhaust.

Geoff, Did you end up putting a screw into the "Connecting Collar" coming out of the rear of the Truma heater and the start of the rigid duct (180° turn). Or replace it with a "straight out" " not beveled" connecting collar. I found the design of the existing connecting collar had a slight beveled towards the inside. I believe this is to allow insertion around it of the flex ducting, which has little weight to it. but for heavier rigid ducting and the heavier flex ducting there is for lack of a better word more “Torque” on that connecting collar. My rigid 180 as shown kept sliding off no matter how tight the 4” clamp was cranked down. So, I went back to a heavier (than supplied by Oliver in 2020) duty flex tubing. I even had the rigid and heavier flex on the floor to reduce torque, and it would still come off with the slightest of movement. I liked everything else i saw and it makes sense. So, I did "phase I" of re-ducting. Maybe the re-design will be adapted at factory assembly. B~Out,

Thanks Geoff, we have been carrying a non-op "Dometic Type 9500E (120 VAC) Power Cassette Awning model 202(LL)(CC).003(#)", around for about 3 1/2 tears hoping to find a service center on a trip, that would have a replacement motor. I will reach out to them as well. B~Out,

Do not buy a "Lippert" replacement part. Sales ppl will say it is a match, but it is not. Tech will say put in the 2nd screw and it will stop that leak. maybe-maybe not. As the ppl at carnivals (not to disparage any OTT owner who has done that) would tell this 10-year-old who just spent his $5 on basketball, ring toss and water pistols, in the midway, "Close, but no cigar, Son"... The upside, I may have found an authorized Dometic dealer to work on our awning... just not before we head-out. B~Out

issue resolved. We bought a Genuine Dometic Water Valve, it is now installed and working as designed.

The Dometic "Flush Valve Kit" arrived by pony express (3 days) and I installed it late last night. It is the proper part for our model of toilet. However, during re-assembly when I inserted it into the back of the toilet, it did not “Click” as mentioned in the Video or Forum comments. I pressed it in the best I could, but no “CLICK”, removed it and re-inserted the old one and “Click”… re-inserted new one, no "CLICK". I did however add the “second screw as was suppled”, so now I have (2) screws holding the “Flush Valve” in place. And what is with the worm gear clamps (existing & supplied), the heads are not 1/4 or 5/16's, sheeez but I did snug them up tight. This morning I will look for any subtle differences between the old and new Flush Valve. And I still have a very slight drip coming out of the back of the toilet where the “Flush Valve” inserts… I believe I have a work-around, in that I found out where I will re-locate Willis’s water dish. Maggie was not impressed. B~Out

Yes Craig, As usual, terrific writeup on something I just take for granted. I am going to have to go in here to have a look at the state of the terminal screws. "Safety FIRST- Make sure you're not connected to street power and that your Inverter is OFF. To be really safe you may want to shut off batteries as well." I just replaced Batteries, and was moving the wires coming from within, to the back of the compartment, so i could work at getting the jumpers off, and had quite a good ARC... I confirmed the Solar panels were functioning as designed. B~OUT

there is also reference to the "little yellow Zerk Covers/caps" that has a collar that will fit around the zerks, and the cap which will cover the bearing where the grease is introduced. "we may have broken some leaf springs to and from Alaska & TUK, but we had the cleanest Zerk fittings on the ALCAN..." B~Out

no problem. B~Out

Bill, if we lived in "Missoura", we might have the part in a day or two... However, we are in West Central North Dakota,,, when I track orders, usually it is "UPS", it may say "out for delivery" for a couple of days until it arrives. Not to say the rural lifestyle does not have its advantages. Our nearest (one i have had the best luck with) RV service center is about 360+mi & 6hrs R/T. However, a google search now shows an RV service center in Williston ND. Tomorrow when they open, and if they have the part... i will head north 90 miles r/t to buy it, and while there evaluate their Service Center. B~Out

I was able to remove the valve assembly and examined it. This is before i found the following in a Dometic Manual i had "IMPORTANT: Toilet warranty does not cover freeze-damaged water valve The Dometic 310 and 320 series toilet warranty expressly excludes coverage for any damages to the toilet or vehicle that may occur as a result of improper winterization of the toilet. An indicator of improper winterization is freeze damage to the water valve which results in leaks. Dometic 310 and 320 series toilet water valves exceed maximum water pressure as defined by North American plumbing code agencies. However, if trapped water freezes in piping that supplies water to the toilet, it expands and creates extremely high pressure that can damage the valve (see photo). To avoid this, winterize the toilet as described in this manual. If freeze-damage occurs as a result of improper winterization, replace the water valve with a 300/310/320 toilet water valve kit, part number 385311641. IF WATER VALVE IS RETURNED FOR WARRANTY CLAIM, DOMETIC RESERVES THE RIGHT TO DENY CLAIM IF PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY FREEZE DAMAGE. " Unquote... Fig. 6 A – Freeze Damage Indicator Window: white stress marks indicate freeze damage B – Water valve damage due to severe exposure to below-freezing temperature" a 1/4" Nut-driver works just as good as a 1/4" socket on removing the screw from the back (refer to video). this looks like it may be the issue, just not as bad, before i reinserted the flush valve. so i believe we have freeze damage to our flush valve. I'll try to source locally before ordering off AMZN, as it will travel by steamship up the Missouri, then by train, stagecoach, and finally by "Dray" Delivery. There is no AMZN Next or One or Two-day up here. but they are more than willing to charge you for it.

It appears as though I have some issues with my winterizing skills. That said we are chasing leaks, currently, this one out of the back of a Dometic (310/311, does the model number make a difference) for the "Water Valve Kit". The leak is coming out of the back of the "Water Valve Kit", just a slight dribble, but enough to be worrisome whilst spilling onto the shower floor. I watched the video provided by Craig and "I can do that!!!" I would like to remove the valve and examine it, to see if something on it is cracked or worse yet further up in the toilet. I am going to see if it can be found locally, if not the AMZN...

Loctite??? Just Kidding!!!😂

Same here... and ditto for Craig & Mikes fix. B~Out

Yes Toni, The newfoundland route is usually done via a ferry from one of the Québec ports or from an island hop when in the Atlantic maritime provinces. But how can someone venture around Newfoundland and not visit Labrador, if we are that close. We have researched this TQH & TLH route extensively and believe it is doable. it may have some challenges along the way, but we have learned slow & steady gets us there. We learned a lot up in the NWT on the way to and from TUK. We look forward to the adventure. And will report back upon our return. B~Out,

Yes Chris, that was my issue, running thru the axle tubes, the insulation appeared to be melted to the point of having the bare wire exposed (see previous pics) so when they then started shorting out, they gave the Ram the error code. It started on the way back from AK, in Whitehorse, and after listening to a dealership TT service tech say 99% of your issue would be in the 7-pin... i replaced my 7-pin. I was extremely frustrated when that did not resolve the issue, because i completely sacrificed a perfectly good moisture sealed OTT 7-pin connector. Later in Whitehorse i found a small independent RV repair shop/person who brought out an example of what i would eventually find was my issue. which was abraded insulation and bare wires enough so that bouncing around inside the axle tube, it would create an intermittent short. My other issue (see previous Pics) the wire used appeared to be 'Brown lamp cord", not anything with substantial insulation around it, like fabric wrap then all that covered in rubber sheath. Oh Well... I have been told that most trailer manufactures run the wires thru the axle tubes when available, whether true or not IDK. I have no problem running mine on the outside at the 9-oclock rear position on the axle. i do not know if he is still in business up in Whitehorse, but i will give him a SHOUTOUT... the business was called "Fireweed" it was an RV repair place. He was a one-person shop with about a 4–5-week backlog, even for something as simple as my issue. enuf, B~Out