SNY SD UP

MAX Burner what is with the Grey Box inside your dog house on the street side?

The Santa Rosa Plateau Ecological Reserve, located at the southern end of the Santa Ana Mountains in southwest Riverside County near the city of Murrieta. However it has been 25 years since we were there.

I believe there is a very large dealership in the Midwest maybe Iowa? They seem to have availability and reasonable prices. it has been mentioned on the forum a few times. Maybe someone that remembers can chime in. B-Out

#3 do you have a locking pin for your bulldog hitch ? the code on this key is CP-7001A here is a link for the picture below https://www.shopinlock.com.tw/products.php?func=p_detail&p_id=20&pc_parent=7 Trailer locks (Hitch Locks)

I am very happy that you have decided to give it a GO. You might want to consider finding some blogs/articles about camping with infants, to see what their experience has been. And if there is not a lot of information out there, then maybe you should share your experiences in blogs/articles with pictures, like you have done with us. Enjoy your time together, and keep the pics coming. Bryan

A Merry Christmas to "All-of-Vers" throughout North America, from Bryan & Maggie & Willis the Kamper-Kat & SnySdUp Hull 665 Domiciled in ND.

just came across this, wondering what you make of it? https://www.rvtravel.com/harvest-hosts-locations-issued-violations-san-luis-obispo-county-california-1083b/

When backing up or turning, did you happen to "jack-knife"? Your situation is different than ours in that we have the storage basket attached. I do not know what that would look like when just the hitch is involved. I did jack-knife on our last outing putting a dimple on one side of the TV rear bumper. It was followed by "Pounding on the window" and the mouthing of "You hurt my truck". By the end of the trip, I had a matching one on the other side of the bumper... Regards, B-out

Great & Thank You. I will go and try to re-attach it ASAP. needs an allen wrench to snug it up.

It is a brass angle stop knob. Because it is brass, I believe it may have something to do with a "Gas valve". It was on the (curb-side/under bed) floor next to the fresh water drain valve. I looked/felt around the WH and the HTR but did not see where it might go. Has anyone seen this before and do you know where it should be located? Thank You, B Out

we have fun with this one... https://www.amazon.com/Black-Flag-Handheld-Bug-Zapper/dp/B0728KFVFD/ref=sr_1_47?crid=3RXLV58X8T1I0&keywords=electronic+fly+swatter+zapper+for+small+bugs&qid=1668882454&sprefix=%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-47

JD, Lucky You, GE has not updated many parts of western ND since late May of 2017. and we have new roads, streets and sub-divisions added since then. I have been trying for 2 years to get GE to update our flyover, and have not received any positive feedback. and I am truly envious of your "Mouse House". B Out,

Our TV actually broke at 2 of 4 attach points (see picture, with yellow circles on addtl fractures) and started to come apart at the back where the bracket attaches to it, so I have removed the TV. Sometimes we would find the TV down when we entered the trailer while stopped between setups. I always pushed it back up to the catch, sometime it was down again, when we arrived at our final destination. I say sometimes, but not always. We would then put it up when we were setup and inside unless we were actually viewing TV, which was like not very often. Possibly caused - by starting out with trailer tire psi of 80 (at delivery) and we did not change that for about the first 10,000 mi, until I started to read threads on recommended tire pressure, then we dropped it to 65psi. It would still come down, but not always, and then we lowered our trailer tire pressure to 55psi. By then I noticed it was beginning to pull apart at the back of the TV. If I had to do over, I would leave it down when under tow, and then raise it up to catch, when we are setup and inside. I never did put in pool-noodle sections to act as shock absorbers. Before our next outing, I will repair the broken area and re-attach it in the trailer. We will however leave it down while under tow... and put it up when setup and Willis (KamperKat) wants to lounge on top of the nightstand. i will also look at any adjustment that can/need to be made on the bracket as mentioned above. Regards,

We were in Ontario (Thunder Bay Area) for this summers adventure, and one of these rolled up. Mounted on a F550. I believe he was from FL, and had been all thru Canada on his way home.

CS, i have ben looking at some replacement parts for other OTT components. i came across this site https://youngfartsrvparts.com/pages/contact i have not talked to them yet, but i saw someone else recommended them for a broken/missing part for an awning. They are located in Alberta, but they ship to the US. Regards, Bryan

Steve, Thanks for that thread/link. I was actually googled to that site just before I started this thread, but at a different comment on Dometic Awnings.

Question for those responding so far, If I was able to revert back to a manual crank mechanism, would I need to add the support poles that sit on the ground or the brackets on the side of the trailer? I would probably have to disable the "Wind Sensor". would the existing "Support Arms" be able to stay in place? I will be trying to resolve this over the winter, so we are ready this spring for the next "Great Adventure". Thanks to all who have responded with ideas, options, and "Pain Sharing". Bryan

GJ, Thank You for your response, Yes, A & B are definitely options I would be interested in. If I can go the "B" option, I told Maggie, I would be responsible for opening/closing the awning. I will be talking to the RV Repair business I took it to on Monday, to get a better explanation of "the motor was bad". B Out

John, Thanks for the response, Yes, I agree those Arms have a mind of their own, and they do not stop for a head, hand or fingers... no personal experience, but read articles and saw a "do not do this" video. we had never lowered a corner of our awning for rain diversion. By the time I read about the adjustment screws and was going to try adjusting the tracking, that is when the tube (that the material wraps onto) had come loose from the motor/guide wheel, and it was flopping around inside the housing, so I figured adjustment was secondary to getting that connected back together. Here is my post about our tube flopping. Bryan

Steve/Tali Thank You for the response, I need to find out if the Motor does not respond to an electrical current or if the motor does not respond to electronic signals from the controller. I will call them Monday for more details. I was in sticker shock when I heard that, so I backed off asking them to order one, and that is why we are having this discussion... Later that day, I called OTT SVC and talked to Mike, he said that $1000 was about what Dometic would charge OTT for a new motor. It is my understanding that OTT has switched from Dometic Awnings to Girard for new trailer builds. Bryan,

Mike & Carol Thank You for your response, Yes, we do not leave the awning out and unattended, or if winds are significant. It did retract a few times when a slight breeze came up while we were underneath it, but I think I had the wind sensor adjusted too light, but left it as it was, to be safe.

Steve, Thank You for your reply Yes, I was able to do that with (box wrench) no issues, on the “hex rod” shaft opposite end of the motor. I then strapped the ends of the awning closed to keep it from jumping back out about 2ft probably due to support arm tension. I have had a few issues with this awning for the last couple of years. (opened tickets w/OTT Svc, tried to resolve on advice given over the phone). it was not tracking squarely on the rewind, the tube came loose from from the motorized end and it flopped on the rewind, (I put this out on the forum, but did not seem to draw any helpful response), the awning no longer closed up completely, and did not recognize when at the end limit on the open, I spoke with Jason about this at the last OTT Rally however we did not resolve anything. I then called Service at OTT; however I would not have been able to get an appointment until long after we were out of the area so we stuck to our reservations and continued on. Hindsight-we should have made an appointment, and stayed at "Camp OTT", until the issue was resolved, then continued on our trip. When we returned from our trip, I took the OTT to a Dometic Auth Svc location, and they said the motor was bad, and I needed a new one. Which leaves me in a quandary, do I pay the $1000 (what Dometic is charging) for a new motor, only to continue to have issues, or replace the entire awning with another brand, or remove the motor and if possible replace it with "Manual gearing" to open/close like others have that went with Manual Crank rather than motorized awnings. Regards, Bryan

Has anyone ever converted a Dometic Awning from a remote motorized unit to a manual crank style? Asking for myself...

Yes, it is the Truma AquaGo Comfort WH "Burner Assy". We started getting a flash error code 1, "Flame not detected", about half-way thru our last trip. I talked to Truma, while on the road but we were not able to resolve, with just the things I could do over the phone. So I waited until we got back home to look at it closer. I brought the trailer to our closest Truma Auth Svc Center (in ND, 400 mi…) they talked to Truma Svc, and when removed the Burner Assy basically fell apart. There are 8 slats (what i will call them), the picture shows 3. I am not sure where the other 5 are, maybe still attached to something in the complete unit. I know we have hit some pot holes and have been on some washboard roads. We ran the tires at 80 psi (as delivered) for probably 7k miles until I found threads on lowering tire pressure. I lowered it to 65 psi for last years (10k mi) trip and then 50 psi for this summer’s trip of 16,000 miles. The trailer definitely runs smoother & softer, we found less evidence to shaking in the trailer while on the road. We will be purchasing a new Burner Assy from Truma and replace the damaged one. So the next question is, is this something that I should be able to repair (sounds like a remove & replace) myself or should I pay my non-local RV svc ctr to do it. Has anyone removed and replaced this sub-asy before? Asking for myself...

I know what this, but was wondering if anyone else has seen this sub-assembly and has experience working on the component? B out