SNY SD UP

Oh, this was a re-active project, not a pro-active one... We have a LE II, I am not familiar with the foot well on an LE I. Would your aux water tank fit in the foot well, and could you then put a bungee around the aux water tank and the post? keeping it near the post and not blocking air returns? B~Out,

Geoff, et. al., This is something I started doing after loosing a couple of 2 liter bottles of water that dislodged in a bundle of 4 and started to roll around on the floor and slide into the gentle rounded corners on the inside of the trailer (and still rupture and leak...) as we were merrily rolling along through the NWT & YT this last summer. I got a couple of milk crates and put them in the Dinette footwell, behind the table support tube on the street side of the dinette. They insert best by removing the cushions and sliding them in empty from the top. once in, they self adjust so they are both held in the area by the table center pole. We now keep (4) large bottles of water in one, and maybe some other soda/water bottles/cans in the other side. We have not had any issues since I decided to do this. After reading the "LP/CO Detector" section of our manual about placing something in front of the unit that may impede the ability to function as it does, the milk crates should not be a problem. Read the section of the product manual which addresses what liquids that you should not store next to the "LP/CO Detector". B~Out

#665 was picked up in Aug 2020. We have an "threaded adjustable" rubber foot (similar to a table foot) at the upper left rear within the microwave enclosure. When you turn the rubber foot clockwise it extends it down until the microwave does not move. You do have to remove the face plate as shown above, to see/adjust that rubber foot. "And/or you have been down some very rough roads." Yes, lots of that. Sorry no pictures. B-Out

Bill, I know once water gets into the "inside bottom" it runs out the scupper holes. But where does it drain to get into that 'inside bottom area", just not seeing it. We had water on the floor a few times, but for us it was "ALL TOWELLS ON DECK"... Can water (or maple syrup) get from the floor to the "inside bottom area" from under the refrigerator? Bryan

have you tried searching the overall forum on this matter? i searched for insurance roadside assistance and the following popped up look at the "didnt find what you are looking for" and maybe change selection to search to insert AND or OR. there are other member who have had this question, so the answers may be out there.

Was the leak from the connection within the trailer or where the flex hoses connect to the rigid pipe that comes out of sewer compartment at the rear, but outside the trailer body?

1) OTT - Wondering if the various Nuts & Bolts used on/in the "OTT" are all SAE, or are there some metrics mixed in? 2) Appliances - The Dometic Stove model D21 definitely has Metric Screws threads which come up thru the bottom to hold the heating elements in place, but the screw head can be either Philips or Torx. At this time, I do not have any experience with the WH or AC, but if made in I have heard, if I buy a robust Metric Socket set, those sizes will accommodate most of the SAE sizes. Not sure if that is for true going from SAE to Metric. Do any of you carry both? Have any of you created a mixed hybrid of both where there is not an (SAE-Metric) equivalent. Thanks for the replies, Bryan

For what it is worth, I removed my "Hubs", then purchased & replaced them with the following. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEBBBGC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They do make it easier to read hub temps with an IR gun and as mentioned above, the removable rubber cap allows access to the axle nut if it needs adjustment. One other tool that I previously had, similar to this makes it easier to remove and re-insert your axel dust caps. https://www.amazon.com/Sturdy-Built-1-98-Trailer-Installation/dp/B0B6QBJRQH B~Out, PS here are some pics, they show what the rubber caps look like. Ours are a bit dusty, from last ND road trip.

Would you please post a picture of the area for the USB ports, Please & Thank You.

All lights associated with 7pin work as they should. (verified earlier today)

Sept 2020 I paid $125 + S&H for the Furrion replacement shipped from Oliver. It was the first thing I replaced (having damaged the original) on our trailer. As I remember I did not have much length on the wires coming from inside. At the time, Jason said "We use two different power inlets on the camper depending on what options you get but I am attaching links to both for you." As to what those differences are, I do not know, so I bought the same as that which came on the trailer, although Jason said they had also used the Marinco 303SSEL-B 30A Power Inlet, which if you search, appears to be less expensive, and is also S/S. As others have mentioned, call OTT Service. B~Out

Ride&Fly - Yes, your post is one of those that I read before diving into this. It appears as though OTT has maybe changed things a bit in that compartment since 2015. However the task remains the same. And I agree about extensions. I do have the nut drivers for the pipe clamps.

I went into the bowels of the front dinette seat, to have a look at the Black Blade Valve. Besides being a bit difficult to pull/push from the outside it appears to not seat all the way when pushed in. I have followed other threads which discuss this topic, so I "Know what I have to end up doing". However I cannot seem to get my 2XL hands in there to properly access the bottom nuts/bolts no matter how I try to squeeze in there. Maggie was observing all this as I tried many different angles and she saw my struggles. I told her what I really needed was a ¼” drive socket set so I could get the proper access for inspection and possible replacement done. She suspected I just wanted an excuse to buy more tools for SNYSDUP… I then mentioned to her that her hands were much smaller than mine and could easily fit between the piping. After a very short discussion, I believe I will now be buying a ¼” drive socket set. So my questions are… Before I make that purchase and based upon pictures of others doing this task, is ¼” drive the proper size, given enough sockets???, Am I a bad person… The 2nd picture shows two (red circles) bundle of electrical splice connections that are open. Am I wrong to assume they are for options we did not choose, but were wired-in if we want any of those options added in in the future. The question I have is, Can anyone tell me what the 2 groups of wire connectors would be connected to, so I might label them. Regards, Bryan

I would agree with JD, " caustic mag chloride & brine deicers", add to that being close to the ocean for that "Salt" moisture drift. Others that live close to costal salt water may want to chime in. B~Out Remember, "Rust Never Sleeps" Neil Young w/Crazy Horse 1979

M & C, Are you getting the notice via your Dash Messages? We did, and here is what it was. (I am working on a Post about this). JD had a similar post about Brake wire issues, which I found informative. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2685-how-to-brake-wiring-is-undersized-some-answers-and-partial-solution/#comment-25131 There is a 2-wire pair (mine looked like old brown table lamp cord) which travels through the front and rear axles that bring the current for electric brakes from the Drivers side to the Pass side. It is a common way RV manufactures do it. That wire has slack and sits inside and rubs inside those tubes. Ours rubbed/abraded to bare wires on a couple of surfaces, causing an intermittent short that soon became a constant short. I basically just cut the old wires off and ran a larger insulated 2-wire pair 12awg across the outside of the back of the axles at the rear so to prevent rock strikes, once I had it all connected. WE HAD BRAKES AGAIN… I found that removing the wheels made it easier to get in and work at each hub, where green brake wires go into back of the plate to get to the brakes. Before you cut your wires, maybe test the green wire going into brakes with a meter to make sure. If you pull the "Brake break-away" cable and then measure the current where the brake wires come in (inside driver side wheel well) you might get a reading, but I am not sure what an electrical short might do to that reading. I was told 80% of the time it is the 7-pin (which it was not), so I naively replaced it, before I found out what the real issue is; now I have a “bugly” 7pin, which is not sealed to the weather like the OTT factory one... Best of luck. B~Out

To the Forum, Has anyone changed to different shock than the factory installed Monroe 555001. If so, Brand, Model/part number. Did you go to a firmer or softer shock. Have you changed back or tried another shock? 2-inch (50.8 mm) or 2-3/8-inch (60.3 mm) reserve tube: The 2" (555xx Series) or 2-3/8' (557xx Series) reserve tube holds more fluid or more consistent performance - when required. 1-3/8-inch (35 mm) or 1-3/4-inch (44.6 mm) bore: The 1-3/8' (555xx Series) or 1-3/4" (557xx Series) bore is larger than most shocks to provide more efficient and consistent control - when required. B~Out

"2. multiple wire issues where wire had been pinched between frame and hub tube, also some bad (shorting) connectors, mostly affecting passenger side brakes" Jeff, Did the old brake wires that ran through the axle tubes look like this, this was pretty much in the middle of the wire run? (one wire pair is the front, the other is the rear. not sure anymore as to which is front or rear) Did you end up replacing the brake wires that ran from Driver side to Pass Side? I will be making a "Forum" post on our issue and resolution. B~Out

At the very bottom of that link, I see the following. is this what you were looking for?

Mike/Carol, I thought I remember you as having a "Natures Head".

John, of the APP store choices on Air Quality, EPA AirNow Air Quality Index AQI Thanks, Bryan

Same thing happened on our lock keypad, and we did the upgrade as you did.

So did you move the clothes bar or leave as is?

We recently ordered and received a Dometic D21 Stove Replacement. I began to install it and I see that the new stove now has the elbow facing 180° of the one that came with the trailer. In other words, the elbow faces away from, not towards the rigid copper supply line with the flared fitting that it will connect to. picture shows old stove on the bottom and new stove on the top. I believe I have 3 options; Pull out the slack (which there appears to be enough) on the original rigid copper supply line, cut and remove the existing flared fitting and use a tube bender to create a “U” curve at the end, slide on the flared fitting, re-flare the end then, reattach the flared fitting to the stove elbow. (this modifies the existing rigid copper tubing) I have some high pressure copper “K” tubing, and would basically create an extension with a “U” curve on one end which would connect to the stove elbow; the other end would then be flared with fittings to connect straight into the existing rigid copper supply line fitting. (this does NOT modify the existing rigid copper tubing) Break loose the existing elbow going into the stove (looks like red Loctite, so heat may be required), remove the elbow, clean threads and wrap with “Yellow” gas tape and tighten up, so it would face the existing connection as it did on the old stove. (this does NOT modify the existing rigid copper tubing) Yes, there are potential issues below the stove with regards towards clearances and that will be looked at before I do any cutting or routing. I believe if I make my "U" bend with 4" between the downside and upside that should work. The more I study this issue, the more I am favoring one solution over the others. Do members of the forum have any additional suggestions or comments? Bryan

Hello all, We made it home safely, and have been recovering physically & mentally. I am currently working on 3 articles for the forum, one of which will be about our suspension issues.

Every time I buy a (blue) Camco in-line hose water filter, I save the old short white spring hose. And each year, I put one on the Ollie. The rear port is fairly accessible/exposed and this hose “attached” may not be best between (in-route) uses. I like the white hoses, as it provides a bit of a shock absorber to the connection on the OTT side, if someone who is 75 y-o and pretty much all legs, catches a foot on one of those hoses. Just get a beaded chain extension and attach to the existing black screw plugs already there and put them in the end of the white hoses while underway. B~Out