SNY SD UP

M & C, Are you getting the notice via your Dash Messages? We did, and here is what it was. (I am working on a Post about this). JD had a similar post about Brake wire issues, which I found informative. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2685-how-to-brake-wiring-is-undersized-some-answers-and-partial-solution/#comment-25131 There is a 2-wire pair (mine looked like old brown table lamp cord) which travels through the front and rear axles that bring the current for electric brakes from the Drivers side to the Pass side. It is a common way RV manufactures do it. That wire has slack and sits inside and rubs inside those tubes. Ours rubbed/abraded to bare wires on a couple of surfaces, causing an intermittent short that soon became a constant short. I basically just cut the old wires off and ran a larger insulated 2-wire pair 12awg across the outside of the back of the axles at the rear so to prevent rock strikes, once I had it all connected. WE HAD BRAKES AGAIN… I found that removing the wheels made it easier to get in and work at each hub, where green brake wires go into back of the plate to get to the brakes. Before you cut your wires, maybe test the green wire going into brakes with a meter to make sure. If you pull the "Brake break-away" cable and then measure the current where the brake wires come in (inside driver side wheel well) you might get a reading, but I am not sure what an electrical short might do to that reading. I was told 80% of the time it is the 7-pin (which it was not), so I naively replaced it, before I found out what the real issue is; now I have a “bugly” 7pin, which is not sealed to the weather like the OTT factory one... Best of luck. B~Out

To the Forum, Has anyone changed to different shock than the factory installed Monroe 555001. If so, Brand, Model/part number. Did you go to a firmer or softer shock. Have you changed back or tried another shock? 2-inch (50.8 mm) or 2-3/8-inch (60.3 mm) reserve tube: The 2" (555xx Series) or 2-3/8' (557xx Series) reserve tube holds more fluid or more consistent performance - when required. 1-3/8-inch (35 mm) or 1-3/4-inch (44.6 mm) bore: The 1-3/8' (555xx Series) or 1-3/4" (557xx Series) bore is larger than most shocks to provide more efficient and consistent control - when required. B~Out

"2. multiple wire issues where wire had been pinched between frame and hub tube, also some bad (shorting) connectors, mostly affecting passenger side brakes" Jeff, Did the old brake wires that ran through the axle tubes look like this, this was pretty much in the middle of the wire run? (one wire pair is the front, the other is the rear. not sure anymore as to which is front or rear) Did you end up replacing the brake wires that ran from Driver side to Pass Side? I will be making a "Forum" post on our issue and resolution. B~Out

At the very bottom of that link, I see the following. is this what you were looking for?

Mike/Carol, I thought I remember you as having a "Natures Head".

John, of the APP store choices on Air Quality, EPA AirNow Air Quality Index AQI Thanks, Bryan

Same thing happened on our lock keypad, and we did the upgrade as you did.

So did you move the clothes bar or leave as is?

We recently ordered and received a Dometic D21 Stove Replacement. I began to install it and I see that the new stove now has the elbow facing 180° of the one that came with the trailer. In other words, the elbow faces away from, not towards the rigid copper supply line with the flared fitting that it will connect to. picture shows old stove on the bottom and new stove on the top. I believe I have 3 options; Pull out the slack (which there appears to be enough) on the original rigid copper supply line, cut and remove the existing flared fitting and use a tube bender to create a “U” curve at the end, slide on the flared fitting, re-flare the end then, reattach the flared fitting to the stove elbow. (this modifies the existing rigid copper tubing) I have some high pressure copper “K” tubing, and would basically create an extension with a “U” curve on one end which would connect to the stove elbow; the other end would then be flared with fittings to connect straight into the existing rigid copper supply line fitting. (this does NOT modify the existing rigid copper tubing) Break loose the existing elbow going into the stove (looks like red Loctite, so heat may be required), remove the elbow, clean threads and wrap with “Yellow” gas tape and tighten up, so it would face the existing connection as it did on the old stove. (this does NOT modify the existing rigid copper tubing) Yes, there are potential issues below the stove with regards towards clearances and that will be looked at before I do any cutting or routing. I believe if I make my "U" bend with 4" between the downside and upside that should work. The more I study this issue, the more I am favoring one solution over the others. Do members of the forum have any additional suggestions or comments? Bryan

Hello all, We made it home safely, and have been recovering physically & mentally. I am currently working on 3 articles for the forum, one of which will be about our suspension issues.

Every time I buy a (blue) Camco in-line hose water filter, I save the old short white spring hose. And each year, I put one on the Ollie. The rear port is fairly accessible/exposed and this hose “attached” may not be best between (in-route) uses. I like the white hoses, as it provides a bit of a shock absorber to the connection on the OTT side, if someone who is 75 y-o and pretty much all legs, catches a foot on one of those hoses. Just get a beaded chain extension and attach to the existing black screw plugs already there and put them in the end of the white hoses while underway. B~Out

Wondering if you decided to go to Tuk?

We are up here too. had to go to Whitehorse for some repairs. Depending on how things go we either adjust routes or head home. We will know more in a couple of days.

Some add to help an back story, before being split off. Pictures are scrambled, chocks are on front wheels. yes we did break two leaf springs (on this trip) and replaced all 4 shocks with the Monroe’s 555001. And the leaf springs (should have been) “4-Leaf Double-Eye Spring for 3,500-lb Trailer Axles - 27" Long”. Mind you, repairs were done in Univik, parts came in air-freight from Edmonton & Whitehorse. and they worked us in with all their other customers prior schedule’s. we will be heading to Whitehorse to seek professional help. b~out

I will request thread carve-out on this one. Just trying to get true description of what I have here.

We are in Dawson City. Just came back from an eventful trip to TUKTOYAKTUK. In this thread it was addressed how to correct one (a tilt) “Flipped shackle”. do I have two flipped or do I have another issue. this problem probably preceded this years travels. First 4 pictures are from under axles CS then SS. Last 2 are from outside btwn wheels CS then SS. Very interested in resolving this ASAP. Before we get anymore remote. if both are flipped, do I resolve the issue the same, or diff. not certain where or when this happened. Just want to resolve if in fact an issue. Every now an then when I hit a small bump or hole in the road, I am have started noticing a thump I believe in the trailer. you will see in pics that the front shackle it resting on the frame. This does not look right to me. Appreciate feedback. B~Out

Same here, ours is the Jensen JTV24DC and now out of warranty. I understand the factory is now installing a TV with 110v power source. I contacted one of the jobbers that distribute them to see if they had any "DOA" returns I could have as a replacement and salvage the back, they were no help. I have a fix, but it will have to wait until we returned from our trip. I will find an old TV and salvage some flat pieces off the back cover, that plastic on modern tv's is tough, but pliable. epoxy one salvage piece to the inside of the Jensen back cover and epoxy in the broken pieces back in place, epoxy another salvage piece to the outside of the back, basically making a sandwich. all the while making sure I have access to the mounting screw holes. At least that is what I am thinking at this time. There are some threads out there where owners have used "pool noodles" as shock absorbers, when the TV is in the up position. We found that lowering TT tire pressure from the "Delivered 80psi" to 50-55 also helped, but by then the DAMAGE was done. We will also leave the TV down, when towing. B~Out,

I backed off the tension screws 3-4 rev's and was able to get another 1/4 turn on the mounting nut. Then re-tightened the 2 tension screws. the tightening screws appear to grip/anchor into the underside of the countertop, so that may end up being problematic, as it does not appear to have a metal washer between under side of sink counter and the mounting nut. A large Philips head with a 10-12" shank could possibly make it easier. One more item checked off before we leave. B~Out

SAME Here, in fact I was actually working on tightening it up, when I thought I would "Go To The Forum" and find a remedy. and here i am... Ours has worked its way loose since delivery/pickup many times. You have a better picture than I was able to get. I believe what we are seeing here is something like a "Delta Mounting Nut", on their single stem kitchen sinks. Back off the 2 "tightening screws" about one turn, then hand tighten the "mounting nut" (you can see the threads) as tight as you can, then tighten up the 2 screws. that should put enough tweak on the mounting nut to hold it in place. on my delta sink at home, it has one tighten screw, so when tightened, it puts a little tweak but just on one side, but that has held for years and is used a hundred times a day... I am going to work on mine now and see if I can get it tightened up before we leave for "VACA"...

I jumped to the bottom of this thread to comment before sending; but decided to re-read the entire thread before posting. My immediate thought was a Heat Gun and it still is. To soften the plastic where it makes contact with the Gen or fuel cans, then take the butt-end of a 4x4 and hammer it flat.

It is my understanding that there are a number of TT electronics that may utilize the "433.92 Mhz" band (a wireless radio band on which compatible household (substitute TRAILER) devices send signals. i.e. RVLOCK Key FOB, and TPMS systems. I am wondering if anyone out there has had problems/issues with anything that you have added/installed "After OTT Delivery"? B~Out

FC - Thanks for the confirmation. We will be removing tires to do the bearing replacement (Timken's) & greasing. While off, I will do a few more tasks in that area.

There was a thread on Zerks I was following, with some discussion on Zerk Count, which I believe ended up being '16', at least for the LE2. While crawling around underneath, I was able to locate 12. So I was looking for a diagram to show locations, but I believe a picture provided by John Davies, is a good substitute for a diagram. I just circled them in red on JD's picture, but did not number them, and I am now seeing 16. I will go back to the Quonset to verify, but is this the number and location? B~Out

Interesting/informative thread, in that we are getting SNYSDUP ready for a trip up to AK... And I was going to check out the shocks when I do the bearings & seals before the adventure. Thanks to all that contributed, and I will try to sleep tonight without dwelling on it until tomorrow, when I'll have a look and hope it is not too shocking... B~Out

Bill, on AMAZ is this your "on the fly" kit https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Bearing-Spindle-Redline-BK2-100/dp/B002PNJZN8/ref=sr_1_17?crid=17SIRFR32CI5R&keywords=trailer+parts+pro+redline+BK2-100&qid=1681157189&sprefix=trailer+parts+pro+redline+bk2-100%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-17