SNY SD UP

added a picture for those that may be challenged with "envisionating". 🙃 I will monitor as to how well they travel together. Do they rub each other the WRONG way. If I see issues, I may end up cutting off the handle tabs. However, as a non-engineer type, I am a little (okay a LOT) hesitant in cutting off the white tabs that are part of the exterior case. Especially if that were to weaken/compromise the sealed exterior case that keeps the 'acid' contained inside. B~OUT

If so can you elevate the new battery so as to allow the flanks to meet? (GJ) I did not try that as i did not want to put any undue pressure or strain on the top cover of the battery. I will look at it tomorrow.

This may apply to you if you have to replace one of the original 'Bright Way' AGM batteries supplied on earlier OTT's. Ours is a 2020, LE II. I am not familiar with other batteries physical attributes which OTT may have used over the years, so it may/may not apply. The carry handle for the Bright Way's sits imbedded in the top of the battery and can be lifted up to carry. If a Briteway is replaced with SoB that has the carry handle that extends over the side that hooks into a collar, it will be a tighter fit for that battery to 'play' alongside the Bright Way's. Worse yet, that side carry battery will cause those batteries post/terminal to be just a little bit further away from the post/terminal it needs connect to. For me it was LIKE 1/2 INCH further, rendering that old cable to be too short. For reference this is one of the longer 2-0 cables that connects the Curb-side terminal to the Street-side terminal. I did think for about a nano-second about using a cutoff tool to remove the offending side carry on the new battery, BUT NO. And there are probably some Electrical/Mechanical engineer types on the forum, that have a simple work around which does not require a new longer cable. I am not one of those blessed individuals, but I do try to keep my wiring mods simple, especially in and around the battery compartment. I am also not one of those that have the hydraulic cable crimpers or a supply of the heavier cables or connectors to just make one up. So, not to drag this out any longer... I had a new cable made (I went with 1" longer) and all is well, it now has a slight arch to the cable, in case I end up replacing another Bright Way with SoB. A bonus is, my used and maybe needed in the future cable, now resides in my used and maybe needed in the future parts box, in the dark regions of the basement. B~Out

Is that only on the Girard or does this happen on the earlier 'Dometic' awnings. None the less, I will ask the question, If you stay 'Hitched', but disco the 7pin, would that make a diff for the above issue? One could hang a (pre-made) tag "RECONNECT 7-PIN" from the steering wheel. We have/follow the OTT (modified) Checklist for normal pre-tow check. However, if something happens in the middle of the night and waking up from somewhere between REM & Deep Sleep you have to leave immediately. i.e. Ranger comes thru with the siren wailing, on the speaker blaring that the CG has to evacuate.

To John & Chris, and all those above and those that will follow, I LIKE THIS THREAD. We are into 44, albeit more of an equation, it is still a good solid 44. What we have discovered and experienced over that last 3 & 11/12’s years of OTT ownership is, when camping in ‘SNY SD UP’ or travelling in the TV and being in such close proximity of each other for weeks & months is, we are on our best behavior and more tolerant of each other's individual quirks. By that I mean, ‘where would one go if you need some alone time’, not in the TV, not in the TT, so, we accept that and enjoy all the new adventures, adversities, breakdowns (a work in progress) and the Uff da’s together. For us to be able to ‘Go Camping’ just brings out the best in each of us, and we like that. We have learned to enjoy being within 6’ of each other day & night and the wonderment of it all that brings us TOGETHER. B~Out,

Seriously, there are number of 'Hamies' on the forum. Bugeyedriver (OL I) MaxBurner (OL II) that have probably done this before. And ScubaRx could probably alert you as to where best to drill so as to NOT snag anything. B~Out

Steve, Are these next to the Lathe & Drill Press when you are under tow???

The issue i have with the “neutral grounding plug” “neutral bonding plug” concept is it ties up one of the two (Champion 2500) Generator 110v Outlets. I just created a 10ft. 10ga. wire with a couple of large Alligator clips on each end, one to the grounding nut on my Gen., and one to a one penny spike i drive into the ground. That way i have an open 110v plug, when the gen is doing its business with the the other outlet. i.e. Run a coffee pot while charging the Batts. I just do not leave the coffee outlet drawing power longer than the brew cycle. You can hear the Gen draw down a bit. A bit Neanderthal, but it works for me.

I had a 'looseness' one time, the pin was at least a full turn out, but still there. I ran 'Bailing Wire' thru the eye of the pin, and then did a wrap around above the threaded end of the Pin & Shackle with the wire. We now tow with a 3/4 T. and w/o the Anderson. B~Out,

what was your Lat-Lon?

Steve, Cameron (above) was right to call OTT Service and ask them about it. One thing I have learned is, even for something like this... If OTT Svc gets enough 'svc tickets' on a particular issue owners are experiencing, they 'May' contact the source and ask, or request a bunch of those parts, for when owners call and need a fix, or at least have a better idea about the part (number-description) in question. We experienced the same thing. We also lost some metal pins which are on the underside of the grate. The 'rubber cushions & pins' were usually found separately in the top drawer just below the stove... until we didn't find them. We ended up replacing the entire D21, for a different issue. I did contact Dometic Customer Support Center at customersupportcenter@dometic.com about the other 'stove issue', it took a while for the reply, but it did answer my question. I just went out to SNYSDUP and looked at our brand new D21, not used since installation. It is missing a rubber pad that cushions the glass top... I will now look at the old D21 for a possible cushion, or find/make one to fit. The other thing I just noticed was, now that the new grate has the pins in it, the metal pins 'seat into' the rubber cushions. So, I could have 'popped one out' at some point when removing the grate and not even noticed that. So the rubber pads have a hole that the 'grate pin' fits into. The reason I mention this is, 'just any' rubber pad may not be the best fit. You will find/figure that out. If you contact DCSC, send some pics of the stove corners where the cushions are/were located. That may help them better understand what you are looking for. Best of luck, B~Out update with (2) pics. one shows pin on underside of Grate, the other is of the D21 bumper pads. Larger one 'receives the pins', you can barely make out the hole in the pad, the smaller is for the Glass Top.

Are you going to 'spray foam' the walls & ceiling. I see we are about 1° in latitude of each other. One delta is, you have the 'water effect' and we have 'flat plains effect'. So moisture vs. NONE. But we still get -10~20° for weeks at a time. I believe spray foam and a boiler system for floor heat is the way to go. SNYSDUP winters-over in that environment, I just do not own it... Are those trees, or tilling's in the background between excavator body & bucket? Regards, Bryan

We also had this issue while up in northern Canada last summer. We believe it was a problem for a couple of years, we just were not aware of it until it was loose enough to start coming apart. When we returned home I got ahold of Dometic and received the following email reply. ===================== From: CustomerSupportCenter [mailto:customersupportcenter@dometic.com] Sent: Friday, September 1, 2023 9:46 AM To: BryanB Subject: RE: Dometic.com Support Form - US - productsupport - rv - b2c Hello Mr. Bjornstad: I was able to reach out to our engineering department. The engineer indicated the information directly below: “the bolts used to secure the burner caps are common M3x24mm socket head screws. They can be found at most hardware stores. He should apply blue Loctite to the screws before putting them in.” ===================== Yes, there are threads in the underside of the burner caps. The burner cap is made of 'pot metal' so if the screws are not of the exact sizing and ARE NOT 'Loctite-d' in, they may vibrate out again or worse yet, they may strip (as ours did) out of the soft pot metal burner cap. There was no indication (blue) of there being any Loctite around our screw heads when we were taking it apart to repair it. So the Loctite comment above may be a revision based upon customer experience. The following is what we did to fix the issue. We only had one screw per element and no Loctite at the time so we were at a less than ideal situation. turn off the gas at the tanks, remove the stove from the countertop, disco your gas fitting, turn stove upside-down and, make a note of the 'ignition wiring' if you have to disco more than one of them, remove the underside heat shield, (you have to cut the zip ties to remove it, replace zip ties to reduce vibration on re-install), re-insert the screws, apply Loctite where the screw head comes in contact with the assembly, then re-install the stove ‘Check Gas fitting for leakage’. We actually became quite proficient at this and I would be able to do it (less Loctite) as Maggie was doing 'meal prep', so I was done when she needed the stove. That is until the loosening of the screws and vibrating caused the 'burner tube' coming into the mixing bowl to break. At that point the stove was UNSAFE to use. So I put it in the back of the truck, got a brass plug for the gas supply line and covered the area with the 'Oliver supplied' sink cover, and taped that down. That gave us a larger meal prep area, and more outside cooking. Our final resolution when we returned home (because stove was basically shaken apart) was to replace our D21 (AMZN Dometic outlet), because we were unable to find the replacement parts that broke as a result of the ‘burner caps’ coming loose, and shaking/breaking apart the internals of the stove. When the new stove arrived, I took it apart at the bottom and made sure all 4 screws were there and sure enough, signs of blue Loctite on the screw heads. I have discussed using Red (hi-heat) Loctite thru PM's with others on the forum. The caveat is 'if you want it to stay put, Red would not hurt, if you have need to get in there and remove those screws and do other work, Blue would be better'... So I will stick with the Blue for now, as I do not believe that the original stove had any Blue on it. In fact, I do not believe we had two screws in each burner cap to start with. Never did find the two missing screws and I searched the entire enclosure and behind the false back of the drawer area. We can now look back at it as a learning adventure. Yah, may not take as many 'wash-boardy' roads less travelled, and will probably even go slower than we did... We learned a lot about the Oliver, Appliances (lost the WH too), about repair in remote locations, phone conversations with SeaDawg & Outlaw Oliver, and our own tolerances to experiences when dealing with and overcoming unexpected issues that arise, but GAWD, did we enjoy the adventure even with the adversities. So much so, WE ARE GOING BACK again this camping season, with the intent to make it to AK this time. Cannot wait to try (after a local shake-down weekend) our new Dometic stove and WH (another thread)... the adventure continues. B~Out, First edit, if others end up purchasing a new Dometic D21 Stove... the Brass elbow attached to the stove is now pointed 180 deg. opposite the supply line. So I just disco'd it, put on some YELLOW Teflon tape and then tightened it up to the orientation of the old one, and hooked the gas line back up. Second edit, Some of your appliances are going to have 'Metric' in them, especially if they are used outside the US. Just be Aware. Third edit with pics: once you have the stove exposed, you remove the heat shield screws (sm. red circles), notice wht. zip ties.. Your burner cap screws pass thru here (black arrows). The large red circle is the broken supply tube between control knob & mixing bowl. I tried to get some aluminum tubing to repair it. Even thought of sacrificing the stem to the coffee pot... I was told, that was NOT an option.

GJ - Just remember to add 'Air-Down' to your step-by-step before leaving the 'Barn', if you do 'air-up' once in. I'm following this thread, with great interest and maybe I should have joined the discussion about 9 pages ago. Our (2) rear leaves broke on the 'eye leaf' at the point where the leaf below the eye ended. I believe I saw some similar break points on other pics posted above. We were in the NWT/TUK area so resources were limited. We cobbled together 2 new but different LS's to get us back down to Whitehorse, YT. Image a horse with two worn shoes in fronts, with a loafer & tennis shoe on the rears... But it tracked & pulled straight. OKAY, maybe not that bad, we can smile but not yet laugh about it now. We had all 4 LS's replaced by 'Jacob Industries' (HIGHLY RECOMMEND IF YOU NEED WORK DONE...) the go-to suspension business in Whitehorse YT, last summer to get us home. So we'll probably not be replacing LS's unless we break another on our return adventure to AK this summer. And yes, we now carry 2 (the fronts) LS with new brass bushings if we needed. Our new LS's had some differences in length from what we had from the build, they are rated at 1830 lbs. The ride home from Whitehorse was slow and not 'stiff' at all, but by this time we were on pavement. There is a lot more that ScubaRX & I found out about LS's that are compatible with the the LE2, in research & discussion. Starting with 'where does Oliver source them from' to that sources part numbers & spec's. Even on some of the supposed same universal PN's from different suppliers sometimes there are slight/negligible differences in the A B C D measurements that make it less that totally consistent by supposedly the 'same industry PN' across suppliers. And that was just the 4 leaver's. I have spreadsheets, but this thread is way beyond that point, by going with ALCAN. I actually like the idea of going with 5 leaves, not for load increase (which we will not do), but the fact that the first leaf below the eye, extends to the eye. Snow maybe Wed, after the melt we'll pull SNYSDUP out of the nesting box, and start loading him up, Cause "WE ARE GOING CAMPING". B-Out,

WHAT IS HAPPENING?! I was uploading pictures of the "Sasquatch' that we saw the other day, and not only did they NOT UPLOAD or APPEAR, but my original pics seemed to have disappeared too!!! How in the world are ppl going to believe in my sighting if I cannot post my pic's on the Oliver forum??? What is this Oliver World coming too?? Just Kidding... A Happy Easter to ALL-IVER Friends & Family. Bryan, Maggie, Willis (aka Kamper-Kat) as we prep for 'AK 2024'

when you go into PRINT, can you 'print to PDF', then it will ask for a file name?

Yes, on the lower left Batt; Red Post Cap, but a "-" (negative) on Batt housing.

We do not have the anti-freeze kit. probably should have it, based upon our location... Does the screen on the De-Cal tube just keep the De-Cal tabs in place and ensures the particles from there are smaller than the mesh. Does outside water pass thru it on the way to the WH? Or is the only filter for the WH, the one in-line at the water pump?

As far as I am aware, there is only one "Filter" associated with the Truma AquaGo. It is the one that you would use to hold the Decalcification Tabs in the screen mesh tube, when doing that process. When not in De-Cal Mode, the wire mesh would catch "particulates" from your water source. Truma AquaGo Filter.pdf I am not aware of any other WH in-line filter unless someone has installed/added an in-line before & outside the unit itself. Bryan

Between Ronbrink's (very doable) MOD & JD's recommended straps, I see a winter project that I soooooooooo want to complete before our 2024 Alaska Oli-venture. The plumbers strap that held (past tense) the WH has snapped. And I have what I believe is a great replacement for it and to add it to the Heater while I am at it. Thanks Ronbrink & John Davies, B~out

Ronbrink - I had the same issue, and have thought about what it would take to get our rubber moved back between frame & belly. Some areas i was able to do it by hand, although i suspect my efforts would be negated by the forces (wash-boardy roads???) that caused it in the first place. other areas, i could not budge it without having to raise the hull from the frame. I too thought (and JD validated it) of the 2x6 (or 2x8 to dissipate/spread pressure) for (2) hydraulic jacks on the hull, but have not done so yet. It should only take maybe 1/8 - 3/16" upward movement to get enough room to reposition the rubber. I may go a 1/4" to floss out the dirt/dust and apply the "3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV " between the frame and the rubber. I guess I should also open a ticket and add pictures. B~Out

https://www.cnn.com/2023/12/08/health/rocky-mountain-spotted-fever/index.html I am guessing many of you are aware of this, and probably already do "Tick Patrol" when you return from hikes or at the end of the day. Do you also check your "Furies" when they come in and lay on the floor or bedding? Although this article references adventures down to Mexico, RMSF and "Lyme Disease" (a different bacterium) occurs within the boarders of the US. So far AK does not seem to have an issue with either at this time. (we were already planning to travel to AK 2024...) We have lots of opportunities to temporarily host "Ticks" up here in ND (where Lyme disease is more common than RMSF) even without getting beyond our yard. A family member did get a bite a few years back, we monitored the "Red Bite Ring" (never found the "bitter") and there did not appear to be any after effects from it. It just seems that some of the diseases and infections we are now subjected to, are more common but aggressive than they were 50-100 years ago. Yes, we have better medicines that can help if administered in time, but some of these illnesses are becoming resistant to some of the go-to medicines of the past. I am not trying to start a long thread of "war stories", but just a quick reminder to "Be Aware" and monitor, if you or your "Furies" do get the "Red Bite Ring"... Just like tire pressure and battery usage, another thing to be aware of, but not prevent us from going on our "Oli-ventures". B~Out,

something like this? https://www.google.com/search?q=BMPRO+Tire+pressure+monitor+wrench&sca_esv=588609601&sxsrf=AM9HkKnK6s-LDdBLcJqWGBMpLE-Wi1-nSg%3A1701922188356&ei=jEVxZfagFbH-ptQP5P-JsAc&ved=0ahUKEwj2luObuvyCAxUxv4kEHeR_AnYQ4dUDCBA&oq=BMPRO+Tire+pressure+monitor+wrench&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiIkJNUFJPIFRpcmUgcHJlc3N1cmUgbW9uaXRvciB3cmVuY2gyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAFIwR1QAFgAcAB4AZABAJgBjAGgAYwBqgEDMC4xuAEMyAEA-AEC-AEB4gMEGAAgQYgGAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

You are correct, the curved ceiling makes it a bit more challenging. I know there are some "WOODWORKERS+OTT" owners on the forum, that may have some ideas on lift mechanism that might crossover from wood/MDF to an OTT plastic door. I am following this mod/thread, as I have thought of this for some time with regards to the attic cabinet door, so when open, it does not interfere with TV viewing. I want to be able to 'gently' lift & close, preferably auto-magically, but I guess manually would be the second choice. It might be as simple as using some double sided adhesive tape on "something like these" hooks to hold them in place, Clear (maybe there is a white) but functional. https://www.zoro.com/idesign-suction-hook-plastic-hook-clear-base-16600/i/G508348816/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&campaignid=19633513665&productid=G508348816&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu77ScC7S6JEJPHqGA9qOdBxkgBzQvUXO3Gk3TQJsnrrGLxaH-wxnfMaAmaXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds The problem is "it's a hook" that you have to 'manually mate' up with the opening on the door latch. B~Out

Me again. This may or may not work, but it will probably generate some additional topic traffic. First concern, he is going into a 'wood' door and 'we' are going into plastic. Next concern, would be what do you anchor the lower side of the piston to. Obviously the floor of the cabinet, but how solid is that to hold screws under tension. I can see the top bracket being attached to the same type of round threaded metal disk on the outside of the cabinet that the existing hinges attach to. Finally, would the working location of the piston or other 'spring loaded' scissors hinge' make it difficult to get large items in & out.