2008RN

@Geronimo John I have to agree with you. about using the Step wet bolts. When I was installing the Alcan springs in the Oli. I used the wet bolts from Alcan and found when Torqued down to the specs, I could not get grease through the sides on the Bushing. I finally measured the step bolts and the measured the springs and carriers. I found that the should bolt allowed just over .010 slop. This allowed grease to come out of the sides and allowed the shackles and springs to move freely. This allows the EZ-Flex to move freely, and do what it was designed for. All of the stress is on the bolt itself and is not on the threaded shoulder thus allowing a lower torque.

Wow, thanks guys for all of the input. I really appreciate it. Those were questions that kept bugging me about Lithium batteries.. I feel much more comfortable when the time comes to upgrade,

@RonbrinkI have a 3 sided RV port with 120 electricity. To rephase what you said, If I had LFP with some type of internal/external heater for the winter, I could go out monthly and unhook the shore power and then run a high electric load for a while and that will cycle the batteries enough to keep them in good shape. At what SOC do you drain the batteries to before reconnecting the shore power?

I thought that if you kept the batteries SOC at 100% over long periods even in warmer weather that it shortens its life of the batteries. I don't own Lithium's yet, but there will be a time to Upgrade from AGMs. Just wanting to understand all of the perimeters for the care and feeding. Thanks for your input.

Sorry if this is a stupid question. Situation: You live in Cooler/colder climates below 30 degrees and go camping every 1-2 months. When in storage you have the Oli plugged in to shore power. When in storage for 1-2 months at a time, how do you keep the 12V supply working to keep the intern/external battery heater and lights in camper running if you disconnect the power to the batteries? If you have the batteries connect to keep the heaters working, how do you keep the SOC at 50%-60%. Thanks

Did you get the black rubber from Oliver? If not who?

I had some flooding problems of water coming through. I had always cleaned the out track, but never cleaned the inner track. I cleaned the track out as good as I could. I still don't know if I made a difference yet. I also put J channels around the window hoping that will help. All the problem windows are on the Street side where the is more water draining down the sides. I did poor a small amount of water in the track and it slowly seep out very slowly. My felt track also is covering some of the weep holes which might not help, I do not know how much the felt wound stop the drainage. I totally agree about the felt tracks being fragile. I started to try to pry part of the track out, but quickly stopped because of the amount of force to pry the sides back and the chance of breaking the felt track. I also considered buying new rubber track covers for the outside. They do not contact the window any more.

I don't own any lithium batteries trailer batteries. I have considered updating my system in the past year. BB price point and warranty makes them a battery to be considered. I have scoured the internet on a few of the top name brands lithium batteries for this application. BB was one of the batteries I looked into. The most common negative comment I found was support blowing the customer off, when they had a failure and not standing behind their battery. With this video it makes me want to stay away from BB. I have no idea what their battery failure rate is, Hypothetically if 1/2 percent of their 400,000 batteries sold failed , that would be 2,000 batteries. In a community of higher end trailers, 2000 failures would stick out like a sore thumb. I know the Airstream uses BB, which is where I found some of the comments. As a side note Winnebago acquired Lithionics company in 2023, to have more control of the batteries used in their trailer and to make a saving using the Lithium technology.

With all of this good info @jd1923 and the other thread on greasing the head, I decided since the Oli is down for 3 months before we take her back out, I would Pull the jack apart and grease everything in the head, tubes and drive screw. A few thing I learned/did. 1. The helical drive gear on the Curb side motor had a small amount of wear, the other two were not visible. I think that I hit the top more often since it is hard to see across the trailer specially with the mud flaps added. 2. The 3 set screws holding the head to the shaft had red thread lock. Used a heat gun to help loosened them. 3. The 2 carriage bolts holding the Rear jacks to the bracket where Stainless steel with a two way lock nut (two dimples on nut). They used so much force to putting on the nut on that it gulled the thread inside. It took 80-100 ft/pounds to get the nuts completely off and was a rear bear. I got one off by my self, but it was tough holding the carriage hold in while trying to remove the nut. I ended up getting help with the others from my son. The last nut was so hard just to hold it in, when we got the nut far enough off we used a 1/2 open end wrench on the square of the carriage head. 4. The chalk on the outside of the trailer adhered to the jack , but not the trailer. when the carriage bolts were remove, the jacks just dropped down down about 1/4" and then I just lifted it back up through the whole. I luckily didn't find any signs of water inside the trailer. 5. The three 1/4" Socket head cap screws holding the outside tube to inner assembly had Gray thread lock, they were tight to remove but doable without heat. 6. The drive screws came out easily with two 1/2" dowels. 7. The grease between the tubes was clean on the top, and dirty on bottom. All of the grease was getting hard. 8. All of the drive screws had some grease on them, two had bare minimum, and one had slightly more. The front jack had a little more grease than the rears. 9 The rear jacks I remove the motor and left it in the trailer. So I could clean and partially grease the assembly on the work bench. then finished greasing during assembly in the trailer with redline CV2 . 10. I remove the whole front (tongue) jack as a unit and did the cleaning a greasing on the work bench. The front jack was little more time consuming to clean since the power wire run up into the bottom of the case and then wires run up through the top of the case. I removed the switches and light from the plastic case top and got it out of the way so I had more room to clean and grease the case halves. 11. I did re-grease in between the tubes, just because they did at the factory. I know it may make more work for me latter. 12. I really liked butyl tape idea for sealing the tube back in the trailer . I put a little more on the tube than @jd1923 and formed a slope on the bottom side. When the tube was inserted the butyl went all the way through the hole in the trailer. I work the butyl from the top making sure it was pressed tightly to the and in the hole. I did not caulk the bottom, I used butyl added a little more to the bottom to completely seal the bottom with 3/8 per side. I am not sure how well the butyl will continue to seal on the outside, but it couldn't be any worse than the caulking job that was done at the factory. 13. I did replace the original Carriage bolts with steel, Nylock lock nut, and lock washer. 14. I used an enamel pen marker making a mark 1-1/2" from the bottom of the inside tubes for a stopping point. Instead of allowing the foot to come too far up. I started with the Rear curb side jack (12hours), then the Front jack (7hours), lastly the Rear street side jack (5 hours). I also called Baker and receive 3 gaskets for free. before starting the project. I need one for the front. the other came off easily. I also use liberal amounts of redline CV2 grease on everything. Thanks for listening

I got an Idea on how to fix the original lights that were failing. First, I had 3 lights that went from randomly failing to one out of 10 times trying to turn it on the light my come on. I played with the ones over the kitchen counter for 6 months trying to get them working better. When the 3 light started failing I decided to upgrade to the 7" and 3" white and blue lights for the touch lights. As I was taking things apart I noticed that I could turn the light on/off every time by just touching the spring. I also found that I could get within about .050 of an inch (just less than 1/16 of an inch) of the spring the light would turn On/Off every time. After I finished installing the all of the new lights, I thought I would try something. I took the light that was failing the most, and drilled a 3/8 hole in the center of the cover. I put the cover back on the light and it looks ugly. I thought If I could find a piece of metal button I could make it look nicer. Then I remembered I had a couple of 5/16 push on axle nuts/caps. The axle cap fit perfect in my hole and I put the cap back on. The cover looks like it was manufactured like this. I hooked the light up to 12V and tested it. It works great. Just like the light did with me touching the spring. Not pushing required, just get real close or light touch on the axle cap. This is a cheap and quick way to possible getting your lights functioning again. You might try to use a 3/8 press on nut cap. And drill the hole to 7/16 so the spring would set inside the axle nut instead of on the flange of the cap. Although you might not have enough spring pressure to have the spring tightly touching the nut. BTW, I do like the new lights. The 7" cool white (5000K) model is almost as bright as the originals, the 3 inch ones are dimmer. We chose to use the 3" one over the beds and kitchen table.

I put 11K miles on this year, some of miles were very rough roads. Arizona and Arkansas were the worst. I had to tighten all of the white water connectors two times. I do not how often this needs to be done or if there is a good fix for them loosening. It is kind of a pain to remove the latex mattresses.

Mine was a night and day difference to the positive. When I purchased the Oli she would roll about 4-5" to each side going down a smooth interstate, and on some rough washboard roads the jouce was so bad it was hard to handle the truck. I had replaced shocks with bulldogs on the trailer and replaced the truck with High end Bilstein shocks all around and this made a some difference with side to side rolling and jouce about a year before doing the leaf upgrade . When this thread came out, I checked my leaf springs and the rears were completely straight. So they were probably bowing backwards when hitting road imperfections. As @Mountainman198 suggested, after my first 50 mile dry run on the new leafs, I decided to lower tire pressure from 55 to 45, which is actually the suggest PSI by the tire manufacture for the weight of the vehicle. i have put 8,500 miles on the Oli this year, and am happy with the upgrade. I did notice a difference in the ride softening after around 1,500 miles or so. I try to stay off the interstate highways when possible. I like going down the back roads at 55mph and see the sights along the way. This also means the roads will be a little rougher and less maintained in many cases. I'm also running a F250 Super duty XLT long box with WB 172" that weighs 1500 lbs. more than the Oliver trailer fully loaded going down the road which may help. Good luck,

I like your moving casters to put the assembly in place.

So sorry to hear about this. It is really frustrating.

So far after about 9,000 miles and plenty of rough roads there is no spider webbing. One thing that has probably helped is the original glueing/epoxying was still holding, so now I have bolts helping to support the original adhered joints. The things that I have put back on, I have roughed up and made slight grooves in a cross hatch pattern in the mating surfaces and then used JB weld to hold things in place. If the inverter would have fallen off before my proactive change, because of all of the weight I would have JB welded and bolted.