2008RN

So far after about 9,000 miles and plenty of rough roads there is no spider webbing. One thing that has probably helped is the original glueing/epoxying was still holding, so now I have bolts helping to support the original adhered joints. The things that I have put back on, I have roughed up and made slight grooves in a cross hatch pattern in the mating surfaces and then used JB weld to hold things in place. If the inverter would have fallen off before my proactive change, because of all of the weight I would have JB welded and bolted.

I have seen reports of this happening before to the inverters. I have had other things come off where it was adhered to the fiberglass. I made the decision to be proactive and when I was working in the area, and decided put #10 bolts through the marine board and through the fiber glass. I used and white plastic screw head cover on the outside to hide the bolts.

One of the things that happened on my 48 day trip, the 2 lights over the sink and stove became intermittent.

I have to agree with you. All monetary reasons. It is much cheaper, to upgrade to the strong leafs, it only cost is the difference between the 2 leaf packs. And as also mentioned it would most likely void Dexters warranty leaving Oliver holding the bag if there are problems. They would probably charge their customer several thousand more for the Alcans vs a $500 more for the extra $120 it will cost them to upsize to the PR4. They are in business to make a decent trailer for a niche market at a profit.

We are just getting to washing the Oli after our 48 day trip. When we pulled the mattresses up we found signs of water under the condensation mats. So when we washed the Olivers outside. We pulled up the mats and mattresses and put them in the isle. When we sprayed the windows to wash of the soap both bed windows, kitchen window, and the bathroom window screen track over-flowed with water and ran down the wall. I removed the outside rubber and cleaned the out track and insured the weep holes were clean. I had my wife spray the windows at about 10 feet away with a 2ft pattern. The water went around the window and felt(?) in a couple of seconds and start filling up the screen track. In the past I never had problems with leaking when washing the windows. The outside rubbers are tight against and the end of the fixed window and there is about 1/2 space at the top of the window where the rubber stops. ie: the Rubber is short. I found the felt track was cover a weep hole between the window track and the in the street side bed window. I also noticed there was a big different between the felt/gasket in the exit window was much different than in the windows. I tried to get one end of the felt out in the street bed window, but it seemed like it was going to rip so I stopped. We never use the exit slider. We use the others window sliders constantly. The chalking around the windows appears to be in good all around? Questions. 1. Is it alright for the weep hole between the window track and the outside track to be covered up by the felt? 2. If the water leaking through/over/under the window and felt in seconds are the felts worn out? If it is can it be easily replaced? Does the Track under the felt need to be cleaned? 3. Is the outside rubber suppose to be tight against the window? Three pictures of close up of the felt are attached. one is the curb window showing the partial weep hole, the other is the street side bed window. The last in the exit felt which felt more like the rubber bump that sticks up 1/16" more and is plump and is tight against the slider then it opens. Thanks for your help, Bob Curb side with partial weep hole street side Exit window

I just got done with a trip 7,000+ miles. Wife is doing a deep cleaning after 48 days of travel. When I went by Hohenwald, and met another Owner and learn about the plastic in the lines, and adding flexible line in-between the PEX and the water heater Tee. So after reading this I decided to check all of the hand tightened fittings. Every one of the white fittings were loose, so they all got tightened. I didn't have any leaks luckily. I will have to put this on the maintenance list also.

I happened to take about a 10 mile section of a toll road in Indiana 3 weeks ago. Tried getting on their website to pay for the trip. The website is poor at best and I can not get it setup to recognize my vehicle and plate #. No searches return my plate number. Not sure if they want my money. This was the only toll road I hit in over 8,000 mile trip. I also agree there are some terrible roads out there.

I just figured we would try to hit 50 pages. I have gone back a couple of times through the thread when I couldn't sleep. better than counting sheep.😳

Dido

thanks great idea

I have 2 of the Eley hose reels with every thing has the Eley quick connects for the house. I have the male quick connect that I take off and on the 2 stage water filter for filling the fresh water at home. Never thought of fitting the Oliver and changing every thing to quick connects. so all I need is a pigtail to use at the camp site. The Eley products are pricey, but quality is top notch. I have almost 2 acres to water by hand in the summer, and have tried other reels, the Eley has out lasted the others, The hoses also have lasted longer than the big box stores. I dislike having to reach down under the edge of the trailer to hook the water up, especially when it is raining and the ground is filthy, and I have to work to get a nice tight connection. I think I will put a parts list together to upgrade filter/pressure regulator/hoses to Eley. i like the looks of the McKillans better than the Eleys but since I'm already intrenched with Eley at home, I will stay with Eley.

That tandem trailer ramp is a pretty cool idea, I like it.

Thats a horse of a different color. A return vent in the bathroom would make sense in the Elite I, since there is no Hot air output vent in the bathroom.

That is interesting with your furnace under the front dinette, our furnace is curb side in the rear of the trailer. Oliver had put in one main return in the the 2020 the is about 4-5" forward of the rear on the curb side. I have blocked off about 50% of the vent, to increase air return under other parts of the trailer. We also have a heater vent output just below the TP dispenser. So on My rig you would get nice warm air to the the bathroom plumbing if you added a return vent below the heater output. The down side you may not get as much air flow to warm the rest of the bathroom. I just put in the 2 vents (one up high and one down low) in the closet. With this you are just getting natural air flow/equalization with what is in the cabin. I was really surprised on how well this worked in making the the closet warmer. I know that at least one person has put the vent for the closet to under the sink to work as a return. With the changes I have made with hot air vent tubes on my rig, the area between the shells is about 5-10 degrees less then the main cabin at least up to the kitchen front seat. I have no idea what the temps are under the bathroom sink is.

Mark, I am not sure of what Oliver you have. I have a 2020 LE11. If you could put your Oliver year/model and same thing for your Tow vehicle in your signature section it would aid other owners in helping with answers. First, as shipped I consider my Oliver as a 3 season. I still winterize the camper for the winter months, and I still go camping. We just carry water with us. The lowest we keep the temp is 62 degrees at night, then 68 during the day. We have the Dometic Furnace, the newer Oli's have a Truma. I would like to update my Truma on demand water heater with the cool weather update, but haven't yet. Also Oliver changed the way the ventilation works on the newer models and vents the closet. Minnesota Oli posted "Breaking Subzero | Oliver Furnace Mod" for making changes to the Oliver for Dometic furnaces. There have been people that made vent changes in Closet, and Closet to under the bathroom sink. Maybe someone else can chime in on this subject. John E Davies may have also made vent changes. John E Davies had made tons of modifications, and information on up keep. He does have a page full of links that are helpful. John E Davies: HOW TO threads and Tech articles LINKS. I made the changes that Minnesota Oli did,but couldn't quite get the vent tube past the dinette floor. I Also just add the upper and lower vents to the front of the closet, and this really warmed up the closet.