Ronbrink

UPDATE: The Victron Cerbo/30A charger combo is operating as planned, this setup is adequately maintaining the LFP battery bank when in storage for a lengthy period of time. The only adjustment made was a prior change in the Cerbo’s on/off settings to 75 and 95%, respectively. According to the VictronConnect app, two subsequent charge cycles were recorded by the charger. Upon arrival at the Cow Barn yesterday, the SOC was 95%; I unplugged from shore power and was able to run a two-hour duration test on the A/C with no issues, dropping the SOC to 50%. Pre-combo install, I was unable to run the A/C on inverter due to low SOC upon arrival, and had to use a generator to cool the Oliver while performing routine maintenance and/or repairs; gets really hot in a metal enclosure during the summer heat in Texas! When shore power was reconnected, both the Xantrex (80A) and Victron (30A) chargers came into play. Beginning of test. End of test. Dual charger current.

If your shower track idea doesn’t pan out, alternatively many have installed a shower rod under the cabinet. My install did require some drilling, but much less conspicuous than in the ceiling. A standard curtain is best cut to length for optimum fitment and functionality. The shower curtain can be stowed in the curved corner, used to shade the window, covers the head and towel rack when in use, and provides more space when showering.

For the list, my 2020 OLEll, 579

Does anyone tow with a passenger or cargo van, converted or stock? I saw a picture on the owner’s FB of an OLEll trailered by a Sprinter. If someone knows of a worthy van with appropriate tow and cargo capacity I’d like to know. Thanks

Looks to be about the same size as my Dometic dual-zone, which I carry on every trip long or short. It has proven to be the ultimate ‘overflow’ alternative to complement the Norcold 3-way!

I was really disappointed that Oliver began installing 11,000 btu units in my model year. However, it has been okay other than the inherent noise of these Dometics. Additionally, there have been a few times when the inside humidity seemed apparent, but an issue seldom discussed for a Penguin ll.

When the time comes, I too will remove the stock mounting board and fashion an aluminum footing similar to the one made to support the Hughes Autoformer recently installed. 4”x4”x1/4” L-shaped aluminum should suffice; only difference, weld rather than heat bend this thicker metal.

I would consider an alternate route for exterior runs of wire, the L-shaped aluminum crossbeams. From looking at their positioning in relation to respective axles, it seems more practical to utilize them rather than the axle themselves. Wires further protected with a loom could easily be fastened on the rearward side of these crossbeams at their juncture with the fiberglass hull, and most importantly out of harms ways. Just a thought!

My Xantrex 2000 is not BT capable, but find using the remote panel easy to pan through the settings and make changes. I obtained the settings table from Oliver when converting to LFPs; only difference in my specific settings were #9 set to 2.0 (inverter is 2000W [2.0] rather than 3000W [3.0]) and #24 set to 80 (2000W inverter/80A charger rather than 3000W/150A charger).

No surprises in your report, in fact very encouraging; I think the Atmos 4.4 is a very good replacement choice. Of particular interest will be 1) if the humidity issues expressed by others having SOBs will eventually become a factor and 2) if the unit size (15,000 btu) proves to be too much for the OLElls and cause cycling concerns. Please keep us informed as your experience broadens, and good luck with all!

This explains the process in using the remote wall panel to change the Xantrex settings.

nAt is manual restart. This default value is the recommended setting for #13. The following may be helpful either to you and/or others. Sent to me by Oliver at my request.

See if this helps.

Can you provide specifics on the ‘Self-Contained Power Connectors (SCPC) from Molex’?

Thanks for reporting on the install, much appreciated! Anxious to learn more of your thoughts once you get further down the road, and gain experience on the workings and comfort of the unit.

There is a new post and a video in said forum of interest; in short, more corrections to misinformation. Anyone considering a Gree (Eco Cool/Atmos 4.4) product should take time to read/watch the very pertinent information and discussions provided therein. I have learned nothing that would change my mind about purchasing an Atmos 4.4, looking forward to my pending delivery and details on your install.

@rideadeuce, thanks for the update on the other owner’s status. In one of the videos viewed, it was stated that a temp could be set and cold/heat would maintain it. There has been some misinformation given before that proved not to be true or at least not fully understood/conveyed. Good luck with the install. SDG has done a good job on video taping various installs, any chance your Oliver install will be similarly documented?

I used 4AWG cable for my DC-DC install, bought 50’ red+, 50’ black-.

I’m glad I part my hair down the middle!

It is my understanding based on reads that one setting is made, wherein the unit will maintain that set temp as cold or heat is needed. Also looking forward to the outcome of @rideadeuce’s install and first impressions, as well. I lost contact with another owner on FB that made the first purchase of an Atmos 4.4 for his Oliver. I would think that install has been completed by now, but no subsequent report to date.

It is recommended to use 1/0 pure copper cables when installing a high output alternator, in addition to keeping all stock ground wires. Most manufacturers offer a ‘Big 3 Wiring Kit’, but I made one up with an Amazon order from the WindyNation store. This also includes upgrading the stock grounding cable from the battery to engine block (in my application) to 1/0, as well.

From viewing the above video, the Victron Quattro is the only inverter said to have a built-in ATS. Just passing on what I heard, however should be verified.

The stabilizer jacks well exceed their intended use; but do require special attention as to not over extend/retract, which can cause a fuse to blow and/or gear head damage. Additionally, one should routinely check the jack mounts for loose hardware and ensure they are examined as part of the departure checklist.

Many have commented over the years on the use of the stabilizer jacks to lift the trailer enough to change a flat tire, well exceeding one or two inches of lift. However, from a safety aspect the trailer should always be connected to a TV when doing so and never ever have any part of your person under the trailer during the process. That said, I feel comfortable using the jacks to further tweak the level side-to-side, but only after utilizing some kind of leveling blocks or wedges first, thus minimizing the degree of actual jack lift. Once the leveling task is achieved, wheel chocks/wedges are placed to lessen any movement when disconnecting the TV.

There are a few other manufacturers of quality high output alternators, some if not all provide custom builds.