connor77

I originally thought I was mistakenly shipped 1/2" u-bolts but after I learned that I should be measuring the diameter of the threaded section, not the smooth section, I realized that I received the correct parts.

I'm sure it doesn't draw much but if you have the composting toilet it has a small exhaust fan that is constantly running. It's easy to just unplug it. Again, probably doesn't draw much but I also wondered if I had some sort of very minor parasitic draw but realized I didn't once I shut this fan off. The above probably represents the complete extent of my electrical knowledge 😄

Similar report to Art's.... We're almost back to our home in Maine. Right around 3,200 miles round trip. No new issues to report. Our Oliver has always traveled well behind our 3/4 ton truck with virtually no porpoising but there's even less now that the leaf springs have been changed. Longer drives are less fatiguing. I checked the torque of the u-bolt nuts at 2,000 miles and none of them needed to be tightened so I think they're set. I had to tighten them twice after having the new leaf springs installed. I haven't checked frame welds but will when I get home. I'm not expecting to see anything unusual. I think an important adjustment is to tire pressure. When we picked up our trailer in 2021 the first thing I did - based on helpful feedback from others - was to lower the tire pressure from 80lbs to 60lbs. With the switch to the Alcan's I've lowered the pressure to 48lbs. Based on some of the roads we've traveled on, I think I've found a good number. I'll keep an eye on my new Monroe shocks that were installed at the same time as the leaf springs and Timken bearings. If the bulldogs are noticeably better or they last longer, I'll switch to those when I service my trailer again.

5/9/24 Update Have traveled just over 1k miles with the new leaf springs and, so far, so good. Like others have mentioned, there is less side to side movement which is nice. Having lowered our tire pressure seems to have tempered the stiffness and the ride softened up a bit at around 500 miles. I re-torqued u-bolt nuts at 390 miles and 1,020 miles and feel like if I do this one more time they should be good. At 1,020 miles only one nut needed about a half turn. All the others needed just a quarter turn or thereabouts. After having traveled for 1k miles I no longer have concerns about them being overrated and too stiff. Special thanks to Mountainman198 for starting this thread and for all those that have contributed to it.

I have had my leaf springs replaced with the Alcan's and will soon share my feedback. My short ride home from my mechanic's place didn't tell me much but we'll head south soon for the rally and I'll report while we're on our way down. I'm planning to run my tires at 48 PSI. Will do as so many others have suggested and re-torque u-bolts regularly.

Just had my leaf springs replaced and my mechanic informed me I have a few wet bolts that are spinning because the splines have worn off. I have searched the internet but would like confirmation from the forum of what wet bolt part # I need. There are multiple part numbers online and some have completely different bolt measurements. Would prefer to only have to order once and get the correct ones. Also, my mechanic seemed to think that the forward and trailing suspension mounts might have different sized wet bolts than the ones for the equalizer. Can anyone chime in on this and clarify? If they are a different size wet bolt, would appreciate part #'s for these as well. There are 4 of these allegedly smaller ones and 8 of the "regular" size....again, according to my mechanic.

Jaew and Kevin Henry - Site G39. Really looking forward to seeing our wonderful OTT friends!

I wanted to improve the sound quality in our trailer so I bought a couple of JBL Charge 5 speakers after reading lots of reviews. The speakers are small and both will easily fit in any of the overhead compartments. I bought these so that we could use them while camping but I can also use them while working on projects in my garage and around our home both inside and out. About 2 minutes to pair them to my phone and they were up and running. We enjoy listening to music considerably more than watching TV while camping...at a reasonable volume level of course 🙂 The sound quality is really quite impressive and the volume at the 50% setting is more than ample. Reasonably priced IMHO to boot. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CHRGE5G/JBL-Charge-5-Grey.html?tp=63331

Just fantastic pictures! Thank you for sharing. How long are/were you in Newfoundland if you don't mind me asking? Would a couple of weeks be enough time in your opinion?

Just updating this thread....RecPro now offers covers for Houghton AC's. I've ordered one but haven't received it yet so I don't know anything about the quality. Around $30 for the cover that fits the 3400 model that many (not all) have installed. Free shipping too. Free shipping might be Fourth of July related. Happy Fourth to all!

Does anyone know what is causing all these wildfires in recent years? Is it only drought-like conditions that are triggering these events or could it be something else?

Craig - We'd be interested in learning more. We definitely want to spend some time in our Oliver in the Pacific NW and next year would work for us.

This is consistent behavior with my trailer and also what I was told by Service. I did not, however, have all of my lights go dim - just two of them. I actually sort of like that one light on each side of the trailer comes on when I turn the master switch on. I am keeping my eye out for a better quality light just in case these don't last long.

Brian, I just replaced two touch lights - the one over the cooktop and the one over the street side bed. They would only come on partially (not very bright at all) and weren't helpful. I ordered enough replacements for all of the touch lights. When I placed this order with Oliver, Jason did tell me that whenever I turn the master switch on, any lights that have been replaced will come on automatically which they now do. The others do not come on automatically. This new behavior is not a big deal to me. Just as a heads up, I think tapping the light "hard" causes them to fail quicker. A very very light touch is the better way to turn these on. As Dave mentions above, there is a small, sensitive spring that activates the light and it doesn't like to be touched too hard.

Hi Rivernerd, Thank you for creating this thread. I *may* have a similar issue but I'm currently 2 states away from my Oliver. I will check and respond to this thread when I'm home this weekend.

John, I had the same issue with my awning. There is a small allen-head screw that needs a quarter to half turn that will likely fix your awning to close all the way. I believe the screw gets turned clockwise but this detail is in the Girard manual for sure. I would try this first before adjusting anything else. Mine looked like yours in that it wouldn't close all the way. I made a very small adjustment to that allen-head screw and now my awning retracts completely.

Mystery solved. I wasn't thinking that the screws would actually be going through the gelcoat into the aisle but you and Patriot have educated me that this is exactly what is being proposed. Thank you both.

This is a picture from the rear of the trailer facing the inverter. That wall of fiberglass that the PVC board is mounted to has no access on the other side which is obviously where I'd be putting washers and nuts. I still think my only option is to replace the 4 small screws with longer ones that actually go into the fiberglass. And even this won't be easy because the 2 on the bottom of the inverter are really difficult to get to. I'll need an incredibly long drill bit too. If you're suggesting that these holes come out through the nice gelcoat under the bed that would be the only way but maybe this is what I've been missing.

I would love to do exactly what you've suggested Steve but there is no access whatsoever to get behind the wall of fiberglass to put a washer and nut on a machine screw. That is what is confusing to me about what JD and Geronimo John did. There are no port holes and I've tried putting my arm underneath the Xantrex unit to see if there is access that way. There is none. Based on how my Xantrex is mounted, it's not possible for me to through bolt the PVC board to the fiberglass. I *believe* my only option is to install longer screws into the 4 existing holes and have these screws go into the fiberglass through the PVC board. I doubt my installation is unique to me. Meaning I'm sure most or all of the 2021's have inverters installed similarly or identically to our trailer.

John D & GJ, How did you both through bolt your PVC board for your inverters with that wall of fiberglass in the way? What am I missing? I'm having a separate issue with my inverter and stumbled upon this thread. I just looked and confirmed that my inverter is held in place on that white PVC board with the 4 small sheet metal screws and I agree that the unit is too heavy to be held up by just those. But I have no idea how you're able to through bolt that board back on. Where/how are you accessing the washers and nuts? Or are you just through bolting the inverter onto the PVC board and then reattaching the PVC board (with the inverter mounted to it) to the fiberglass wall with longer/better/more screws? I'd like to be proactive and get something better in place and I'm considering just longer, beefier screws that will go into the fiberglass in the existing 4 holes that the small screws occupy now. Any chance you took pictures?

Will do!

Mossemi / Scuba, this is a great example of what I think would be helpful in terms of videos to walk people through how to perform these tasks. Doesn't necessarily have to be an Oliver person so long as what is done and video'd is approved by Oliver. The obvious beauty of the videos (both the "full" length ones and the shorts) is that once they're done, they're available to everyone always.

If you winterized, you'll need to de-winterize. Video of Jason showing this procedure linked here. Check your tire pressure (most people like about 60lbs), make sure batteries are fully charged, operate everything you can in/on your trailer before going anywhere, check that you jacks are operational, check your propane level, check your trailer's brakes, grease all zerks on suspension (8 per side), if you have solar, check to make sure the knobs holding the panel are tight, make sure you have fresh, clean water in your hot water heater before turning it on, make sure you have some fresh, clean water Probably a few more things to check but here are at least a few things to get started on... Edit: Scuba just posted so there may be some additional or overlapping comments between us.

I might order both shocks and see what kind of a mess I'd get into if I tried to retrofit the shield from the Monroe. It's unfortunate that there isn't a better option out there. Ultimately, I'm sure I'll end up ordering the Monroe's and keep my fingers crossed that I get 4 decent ones. Thanks for the clever idea GJ!

In my quest to find something better than the Monroe shocks I was given this part from KYB but I've learned that it might not be suitable because of the exposed rod and the beating the underside of our trailers take from rocks, road debris, etc. This shock suggestion came from Shockwarehouse.com This part could be a consideration if there was some sort of protective sleeve for it but I'm not sure that one exists. I was not able to find a cross reference to other manufacturers like Bilstein. This shock was all I found that was reasonably compatible with the Monroe specs. I've read comments from Monroe buyers that some of their shocks never extended properly but there was also feedback from RV owners that used the Monroe's and they had good luck with them.