JRK

I need a dolly for my E1, on a slight concrete hill to get into my side yard, which is also concrete. It is a bit angled, slightly, and I need to manevuer around my roof overhand - may just cut off the overhang. Is there one that will work, and might be recommended?

Pleasant people everywhere, even the person who almost rearended me, towing my new trailer with less than 30 miles on it, when he came up to me while I was pumping gas and apologized for nearly hitting me.

I don't think that it is actually 12 amps - it is 3 amps spread across the 4 brakes, which is partly why they are grabbing for JD, especially if only 2 amps is allowed to pass. I am not sure how they are wired, parallel or series. It would be nice to have a real wiring diagram that should show proper size wire and how they are wired.

On my EI there are Lifelines. Took delivery yesterday.

Just picked up my trailer yesterday, wednesday. The manuals are copied and bound together in thick booka, one for standard equipment, one for options and an owner manual. My binding has failed and pages are falling out - just an aside. You get all manuals, even if you don't have that appliance/equipment. There are no wiring diagrams or information provided. I asked about wiring, and the delivery person could sort of explain where each wire was. He knew more about some than others. I was pleased to find access ports to all connections. The wiring is not "clean", but it is functional. I was told that they had no diagrams to provide, and have asked for a diagram, just like in a vehicle. There is nothing proprietary about the wiring that needs to be protected. I just don't think that they use a diagram. There are diagrams showing component placement, but does not show the wiring between the components. I would like to see the size of wiring used, where it is run and how.

No photo was taken at delivery. Probably good for the world to not seeing me. Not sure why, but it didn't happen. Delivery was quick and simple. Spent the first night at Crockett, and am still there for night #2. It is an Elite I, light blue and dark blue. I am by myself on this trip, heading back to the Los Angeles. No real issues. Was told that Cooper tires recommended 55 psi tire pressure. Given a too short brake breakaway cable that was attached to the safety chains that I fixed with a tractor supply run. Towing with a Tacoma - no issues first 40 miles. Using an Anderson hitch which is quite simple once set up properly. Forgot to get some peat moss or coir for the composting toilet. There was none in the toilet, which I assumed would be there along with the instruction manual. Glad I saw that. Still trying to figure out the furnace. I set the thermostat to heat and the a/c blower also comes on. Used a small electric heater last night, as it got down to the low 40's - got too warm inside. Opened a window a crack and turned off the heater, which made it quite comfortable. Will travel 300 miles Friday, which will be first real test with tow vehicle/trailer combo. Off to infinity and beyond.

I understand that the size of the wire, if too small, would cause resistive heating in the wiring and possibly melting of the insulation and/or a fire. Is it the restricted amperage due to the wire size that possibly causes the improper operation of the brakes? Changing the external wiring along the axle might help increase amperage flow along those wires, but I assume that there remains 18 gauge wiring in the hull, which restricts the amperage (current) flow, so changing the external wiring really does nothing to improve current flow to the brakes. Which also creates an overheating hazard inside the hull due to resistive heating of the wiring. So OIiver has delivered a dangerous, hazardous condition not only for brake operation but also a fire hazard-only when the brakes are operating? To correct the problem, the wiring from the 7-pin connector to the brakes needs to be changed to probaly a 10 gauge stranded wire, depending upon length of run (according to nec chart)? Definitely 18 gauge is too small to handle 3 amps.

I am currently in east texas, someplace, on my way to pick up an Elite I on Wednesday. Have a few more stops to make on the way. Maybe see you at Crockett? I'll be there Wednesday and thursday nights. John

Thanks JD. I can work with that. Although I was led to believe that the zamp port was wired into the onboard controller. I can research, but will this allow me to supplement the on board solar system through the zamp port? Charging at the same time? I am able to do that with my house solar, add additional panels into the system to add to the charge capability. The external panels are not permanent. I think I am getting AGM batteries, 2 6 volt. I’ll be storing at home in Southern California, west of Los Angeles in Ventura county, 11 miles from the coast. ( With free launch ramp for yellowtail.)Plan to cover it, most of the time. Planned to use the auxiliary panels while camping, in conjunction with the roof mounted system. I have a decent controller for the portable panels. will need to build an adapter from the external panels to the zamp port.

Okay, I am confused. During build out I was told that I could plug a solar panel into the Zamp external connector that would be run through the charge controller to charge the batteries, or to add an additional panel to the system. I have 2 100 amp panels (with charge controllers) that i purchased on ebay for $120 that work great to charge my non-trailer batteries that I use for portable use, or to charge my lithium Bioenno 1000 watt power pack. I had planned on using one of these solar panels for the same purpose, when the cover is on the trailer, or at a campsite as a supplement. Will that not work - which is what I am hearing? If so, I should not have had the Zamp external connector installed? What is the Zamp external charge port used for, then - which is my source of confusion? John

Sheri has an Elite I, single axle, if that makes a difference for locations of wiring. I am learning from her issues as I pick up my Elite I in 16 days. As things bounce around in a trailer, wiring and connections can come loose. I used to install mobile radios as my second job and for fun, so became used to properly installing electronics, connections and such. Not good to have a radio loose power, or an antenna connection come lose in an ambulance or fire truck. I can say that I have never had that occur. Aircraft electronics follow specific connection protocols to avoid such issues. Solder connections are not always the best - other systems are used in aircraft, depending upon issues. If wiggling a connection "fixes" the problem, the problem still exists, unless it was a loose conncector that was improved by the wiggle. But the error indicates a "short", which would not be a connection/connector issue. The connectors should be protected (again, emphasis on should) so nothing should come across the connectors/junctions to cause a short, or nothing should be in the area that could cause a short. If stranded wire was used, a stray wire that was not properly seated in the connector may have found its way to another connector. This would be at the back of the display panel, or at any factory made connection. The insulation on wiring may have been chafed or exposed, allowing the wiring to come in contact with another conductor. Or the error message occurs for issues other than a short. Sheri has been out a couple of weeks since picking up the trailer. Simplest cause would be something conductive falling across two exposed connections along the black water circuit, or an insulation failure. Connectors at the back of the panel shouldn't cause a short, unless there was a stray conductor. This is still a part of the shake down cruise, finding what might have been missed at the factory prior to delivery. What came loose during that short time? John

Camco seems to provide decent products. I have used the Camco blue water filter for years (pre Oliver). I carried the camco black/gray water drain hose support, but never needed to, or wanted to, use it. The power assessor, polarity and voltage that RB suggests is a good product. I am cheap, so use a $6 one from Fry's - when they were open (Radio Shack or other electronics place should have one) and use a Harbor Freight model that does the job for about $5. I have a separate volt meter that I put in, and will put in, the electrical system. The test device is to make sure that the pedestal was wired properly, is still wired properly, and that the correct voltage is being supplied. Not good to accidentally plug into 240 volts, or to find that there is a floating neutral that just happened which could cause fires, equipment damage, electrical shock and or stray current that would not be controlled by the circuit breaker or GFCI. I use them for work, along with other electrical circuitry test equipment. The ones I have are 15 amp, so you might need an adapter. Does anyone use a 30 amp tester? You might also eventually get an AFCI - Arc FAult Circuit Interrupter that you would plug your power cable into. The circuit breaker will not protect against an arc event. Eventually have a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter that you will need once every other year, but when you need it, that would be the only way to get power. Again, Camco sells an adapter. I also use a water pressure regulator, the same one listed here. Camco products are available at Walmart (or they were a few years ago. Haven't checked in a while). The only reason I specifically go into a WalMart is for camping supplies. The last time I was in the local WalMart for camping/trailer/RV equipment they had a full aisle of products. You can find things that you didn't know you needed. One of my favorite stores, Tractor Supply, also has trailer equipment. I will leave for Oliver in less than 2 weeks to pick up my Elite I. It will hopefully be a happy St. Patrick's Day and evening in Crockett SP. John

I've been evaluating my microwave usage in my home kitchen - I have been using my Breville multi-function oven more than the microwave and even my gas oven. I seem to use the microwave to heat water, and little else. the air fryer and reheat functions of the Breville get a lot of use, as well as replacing my toaster. I did get the convection oven option for the Oliver. During the months after I placed the order, I think I realized that I don't need the microwave - hot water with electricity can be done in a water heating pot, or in a tea pot with a propane stove for french press coffee. I am seldom in a rush to get out the door since being semi-retired. I can plan my day being self-employed, mostly. I like an oven, so went with a convection oven, not really the microwave. Wasn't aware of the mini Breville. I think I would have gone without the microwave if I had thought more about it. I am a cheap ...... so have to further justify removing the convection microwave. I actually like toast made on one of those metal things that sit on top of a burner that require me to pay attention and turn the bread.

Good call about not using the toaster in the opening. All of the toasters, microwaves, air fryers need a few inches clearance and air circulation to prevent heat damage or fire. Or give me a call when the trailer burns. The investigation work pays for my new trailer.

I've been using the "hot water method", even without hot water depending upon weather, for more than 40 years, including at my house when I lived on a citrus ranch. Works as well as any gauge, unless you are able to weigh the cylinders.

The installation of the RV refrigerators and the extreme amount of precaution surrounding the refrigerators is most likely due to the quite large number of fires associated with rv refrigerators, and even a few deaths. Dometic and Norcold have been responsible for numerous fires. RV refrigerator fires have paid for a truck for my business, and has continued to this day. You can google RV refrigerator fires for a detailed explanation or I have attached one of several hundred reports. Dometic and Norcold has paid out millions in claims for their part in causing these fires. John RV Absorption Refrigerator Fires.pdf

Chukarhunter said that his door would come open while he was driving, and he was having trouble opening it, it would get stuck. Read his post above. That is a safety issue that he attributed to the door not being able to close completely due to the weatherstripping. He had to push on it in a special way to make sure that it was closed. Not okay, but good knowing how he makes it work. I would forget. If it is a strike plate issue, why was it allowed to leave the factory in that condition, without it being properly adjusted?

Tire pressure, and other stuff- I think that Oliver delivers the trailer at 80 psi because that is industry recommendation, assuming that the trailer might have a maximum load, which might need the maximum psi. It is up to us to make an educated decision as to how to operate our equipment, and to listen to industry and user experts. How many of us follow the manufacturer's recomendations on anything without evaluating the purpose if the manual makes confusing or misleading statements? Other delivery issues do not have such a justification. While my main job was being a firefighter, I have always had a second job/business/career. Customer service, with the fire department and for my self-employed businesses was critical for repeat business and customer satisfaction. I had a two-way radio business. I tested every radio prior to delivery. I stayed up all night, literally, for a delivery of more than 300 radios I had to make. I could not claim that it was the radio manufacturer that was the cause of a problem. It was my reputation and responsiblity for the radio to work. When I took in a radio for repair, I would replace small broken items, do a thorough cleaning, and even repaint dial markings as part of my regular service. I retired from the fire department 6 years ago, but have continued to work doing fire origin and cause investigations and other failure analyses. I perform the duties of a forensic engineer. My written reports are what the client, and subsequent lawyers and others, use to evaulate me and the quality of my work. I cannot have misspellings, typos, grammatical errors, formating errors, poor photographs, etc. I pay people to review my work, to make sure that everything is right, then I review it again. And this is not safety stuff. So not only do I have issues from a legal viewpoint, as a person who conducts failure analyses, but to allow a trailer to leave the dealership with potential life safety issues is poor customer service and potential legal trouble. There is no excuse for allowing a trailer to have no brakes for 200 miles assuming that the brakes will self adjust, and nothing will happen within the first 200 miles when driven by a person who possibly has towed nothing in their life. Or brake wires that are not connected. Or a door that comes open while driving. Or a door that cannot be opened, with people inside or outside. Or a power cord plug that falls out, or worse, only comes out of the receptacle part way, creating a high resistive connection that results in a fire. Or glue on gel coat that is nearly impossible to remove. Or improperly finished gel coat. Or other issues. It's customer service. It's quality control. It's public relations. It is reputation. Through my research, I have bought a decent trailer. It has a layout that I like. Through the forum and other sites, I have learned about potential issues at delivery, and other problems that may occur during the first few months of ownership. Design and construction seem to be quality. However, if it were my company, which it isn't, I would take a few hours prior to delivery to operate all appliances and equipment, tow it for at least four or five miles to make sure that the brakes work, and other aspects of the axle work. I also have a very small ham radio business. Industry standard, for the highest quality electronic equipment, is to operate, or at least power up, each piece of equipment prior to delivery. I'm still looking forward to delivery on St. Patrick's Day. I plan to stay two nights at Crockett for an extended shake down. I don't expect to have any problems, but I need to verify that everything works. And it was a good day for old guys. John

If you want to visit an Oliver, the NOT a rally (covid) is happening at Lake Guntersville SP in Guntersville, Alabama, May 13-16. The details are here in the forum under Camping, 2021 NOT a rally. There are about 20 people registered. It will be my first time with my new trailer I will pick up in March. Everyone will be showing off their trailer. John

kinda remember that sound, from a prior life.

It was cold today - didn't get over 66

Lithium in the LEI must be a new for 2022 model year. I don't recall the option available. Will the solar controller in the LEI charge lithium? Thanks, Bill. I had planned on the Texarkana campground stop on my return from picking up the trailer, probably there March 19, after visiting my dad's gravesite in Stamps, AR. John

JD what is the correct pressure for a single axle, elite I? Oliver has said, second hand info, it is 80 psi, as that is what the delivery team specifically stated. bill, not inflammatory. But the factory/corporate needs to get the act together. There are multiple issues listed here that are specifically quality control issues, not appliance or third party manufacturer issues-Oliver issues. john

Chukar what has the factory done to help? This is a safety hazard, with potential damage to the hull/door occurring due to what has been described as a workmanship problem that should have been repaired during the quality check prior to delivery. it would not be a minor annoyance to me having the door open while driving. john

Helps a lot thanks john