Mike and Carol

Does everyone who is experiencing this have the same thermostat?

From what I’ve seen over the years, the number of owners who regularly camp in severe conditions is small. In the beginning that was probably just a few. As more and more trailers are built and sold that number is increasing, although still a small minority. Most of us that do camp in very cold weather do it for short periods of time because we don’t find that kind of cold enjoyable. Voicing these issues by those who like consistent cold weather camping is enlightening and I’m sure Oliver is noticing. Maybe these suggestions will result in meaningful cold weather capability improvements. Extra insulation in the right spots is not expensive. An HVAC expert could help re-engineer the heat/ducting design. It seems to be to be a cost effective way to increase cold weather capability. Mike

Where I get gas (HEB Supermarket) regular is $2.65 and Premium is $3.29.

Diesel was $4.19 here today in Boerne, TX.

We use our Outland a lot. Good piece of camping gear. Mike

Moving the magnet inside the dinette seat has made a big difference. We also used command tape and it has held well over the years.

Ummm….. I guess that’s one way to total your car.

When we had two 100aH Battle Born lithiums running the furnace all night didn’t take them down much at all. You don’t have anything to worry about. Now that I’ve added a third running the furnace won’t be anything I will fret about at all. Mike

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywn-vBjKblI

Magnets! One is on the lower outside corner of the door, the other is inside under the dinette seat. Just enough to keep it open and not enough to require much force to close. We’ve had ours a number of years, cheap purchase from Amazon that has worked well. Hokieman’s link above explains. Mike

Even some of those that have a vent in the bath get really cold with the door left open, especially when using an electric space heater. Our bathroom door is open almost all the time, unless it’s being used. Mike

Since it’s lacking chili, I’m not so sure.

Congratulations and welcome back to Texas! There are tons of nice state parks for you to try out for your local camping. We also stayed at Bee Happy Farm a couple of years ago. Mike

I guess there are pro’s and con’s for the never-lubes. Seems like a good thing, not to have to worry about repacking all the time. I have my bearings repacked and brakes checked every spring before the rally. 7 years and still original bearings. We do 10-15,000 miles a year. Mike

Pretty good deal on the 100aH….

If they are THESE, they fit fine. Mike

We camped all around Colorado this past summer. In State Forest State Park we were at 9,100+ feet and all propane appliances worked fine, furnace, hot water tank and cooktop. Also my Weber Q and Blackstone griddle worked fine. That was in July and the temperature only got down in the high 30’s. Mike

John, my lithium situation is very different and I haven’t really done much to learn about the new installations. I don’t really do any long term storage, a month or two at the most. I just park the trailer, turn the batteries off and call it a day. They are usually at or near 100%, which isn’t a problem for short periods. Hopefully the propane leak is just a lose connection somewhere. Even new expensive campers bounce down the road constantly testing plumbing, propane, electrical and anything else that can work lose! Mike

Diesel is $4.54 here in south Texas.

Happy Thanksgiving! We are thankful for all of our Oliver friends!! Mike

Thanks, John. That is a good price. It might be time…..

We’ve used a key for years and it’s not really a big deal. Sometimes simplicity is good, especially in something that goes bouncing down the highway. Sometimes I marvel at all the new technology in newer Olivers, but then I also appreciate the simplicity of our older trailer. Mike

I’m not an expert, but I would certainly use it. A light coat of any quality grease seems to last a long time. Mike

Great news, John! The new Truma heater must be a great improvement over our old Suburban furnace. The learning process will be fun! Mike

If gray water is leaking into the hose when the valve is closed, raise the street side bed access hatch nearest the pantry and you will see the gray water valve. Push the silver cylinder at the end of the cable as far down as you can. That should solve the leaking. It is probably time to remove the cable from the outside and clean and lubricate it. It’s not difficult, loosen the screw on top of the gray water gate (under the street side bed), then pull it out from the outside. Clean and lubricate the cable then stick it back in and push it until it reaches the gate inside. While the outside handle is in the closed position, re-tighten the screw on the cable inside. That’s really all there is to it. I’ve done mine (and the black tank gate cable) twice in 7 years and it works fine. Mike