Overland

What do the wires that you’ve labeled yellow and ground go to? I’m assuming one goes to the small screw type bus bar on the floor and the other directly to the power center? If so then I think you’d just attach both to your new bus bar and that should do it. Do you know where the negative from your solar charge controller is connected? On my bus, I have the negative from the inverter, the negative from the solar charge controller, Oliver’s negative (a stiff yellow cable which connects to Oliver’s screw type bus bar on the floor), and then I have two additional separate ground wires, one each connecting directly to the cases of the inverter and solar charge controller. (Since I have a combo inverter/charger, I have only one negative for both.) Then the bus connects to the shunt and the shunt to the battery. I’m pretty sure that the only other wire I have connected directly to the negative terminal of a battery is a temperature sensor for either the shunt or charger, can’t remember.

You could do it, but I don't think it would work quite the way you're thinking, since the 120 side and the breakers aren't really the issue. What you'd need to do is disconnect the AGM battery bank so that you don't have both the AGMs and the LFP simultaneously connected on the 12 volt side - otherwise, one will try to charge the other. A simple disconnect switch would do the trick. Once you've disconnected the AGMs, then connect the LFP and that's it. How are you planning to time the AC?

Yeah, that's odd that they'd have superchargers along the pacific coast highway.

There was a similar issue with F150s a few years ago. I haven't seen anyone post about it lately, so it could be that Ford has found a solution, or maybe they just passed the problem along to GM. I don't think it's an Oliver problem so much as an LED light problem that the manufacturers haven't all come to terms with. Here's a long discussion about the issue and maybe you can spot a solution in that thread that will work for you as well -

Susan, the longer answer to your first question is that some hybrid inverter chargers will let you do exactly what you’re asking. The Victron MultiPlus is the most well known example of that. It can do it on the fly as needed or you can tell it to only draw so many amps from shore power and to get the rest from your batteries, which is really useful if you only have a 20 amp connection at home. I had thought that the Xantrex unit that Oliver is installing as part of their LFP kit does the same; but looking at the specs, I don’t think it does. Someone please correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t see it.

The short answer to your first question is no, your inverter will not supplement shore power with battery power. As to your second question, the answer is that there’s no distinction between power coming from your solar panels and power coming from your batteries. It’s all part of the same pool of electrons. Think of the 12 volt system like water, with the batteries being a big bucket, and solar and charger power being faucets that you can turn on to fill it. If you want a glass of water you could dip it into the bucket or you could hold it under one of the faucets or do both - it’s all water.

Ford throws its hat into the ring, as a 2023 model - https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/ford-reveals-electric-f-150s-124100174.html

It’s the three dots on the right side corner now. I preferred the button too.

Well, that was a key missing feature so I'm glad they got it sorted. I'd like mine to spin counter clockwise, though. You'd think that option would be in the profile settings.

That was a neat addition to the kitchen - I’ve always liked it. Was it only in the original LE2 prototype or did some make it into customers’ hands? Here’s another shot - note the fiber granite sink cover also:

Lexi, you might also consider Jordanelle State Park in Park City, which may be a bit more scenic than the KOA. They have well over 100 sites, a decently sized event center, the lake, and of course all the restaurants and amenities of Park City. It would probably be a bit cooler there as well.

Anyone familiar with the RSI SmartCap? It's a stainless steel cap with hinged side windows and a ton of accessories. Looks like it could be really nice - https://www.rsismartcap.com/smarter-truck

Thanks for the info. FYI, if you’re looking for a content blocker that works with the site, I use 1Blocker with all its options turned on and I haven’t seen any problems.

Thanks for doing the comparison - it will be interesting to see the results. As perhaps some additional advice on getting accurate measurements, I know that the Sonos app asks you to remove any case on the iPhone and hold it upside down so that the microphone faces away from you. I’ve also read on the Sonos forum that you can get different results from different model iPhones, but I don’t know to what degree. So there’s an excuse for you both to go out and get the latest model. 😛

I also have these bedside storage racks which are pretty handy - https://www.builtrightind.com/products/builtright-industries-mbrs-fseries-kit

The Diamondback covers are really nice. I know a number of contractors who have them and I almost got one myself. I ended up with a Leitner rack instead. I really like how I can attach pretty much anything to it. Here’s my usual camping setup with a Frontrunner rack on top with solar panels, and a custom rack I made out of 80/20 to hold some Hardigg cases.

It apparently means that the person is new, or hasn’t posted much. Kind of an odd icon. I think it’s supposed to convey “hi, I’m new” but it looks more like “stranger danger” to me.

The Nest looked cool and had potential, but it had a stupid floor plan, and adding in a lot of other bad decisions meant it was never going to succeed. Airstream just can’t get it right with their small trailer designs. Too much effort making marketable product and not enough effort making a good one.

I started to watch the video and just couldn’t finish it. I’m probably wrong but there’s something about these guys that doesn’t seem legit, despite GM’s involvement.

Nice find, Bill

Seems a little crisper and brighter to me, but otherwise I just like the IP lookup like Sherry mentioned. It looks like there's an app we can use now? Maybe that requires some work on Oliver's part. I'd be interested if it's any easier to use on the phone that in a browser. The only thing I've noticed that seems off is that the 'sold' prefix is a bit intense.

What it does is make sure that the valve is moving freely, since it can get stuck with deposits or just from lack of use.

The Truma Comfort has a circulator but it circulates water within the unit itself, not through the whole trailer.

Most water heater manufacturers recommend you test the valve annually. Some recommend every six months. I don’t know if Truma has a recommendation. I’d think that if the valve won’t close after testing then that’s a good sign that it needed to be replaced anyway.

One of the things I was told during delivery was to bleed the air out of the Truma when starting it up the first time after being drained. I think that the small reservoir in the unit won’t fill properly unless you open a faucet to let the air escape. The easiest way to do it is to use the pressure valve on the unit itself. I’ve gotten into the habit of releasing the valve for a second whenever I turn on the outside switch, just to make sure. You should probably test that valve once a year anyway, just to make sure that it’s working.