Steph and Dud B

In practice, that is correct.

We like our Tochtas, although we rarely sit on them.

Here are our recent experiences with this. For reference, we have the larger lithium package (630 Ah) with the soft-start Dometic A/C and an older Honda EU2000i (2000W surge, 1600W continuous): Dry camping. Weather: low-80s, humid. Trailer solar panels in full sun. Thermostat set to 70 degrees. Started generator at 11:30 AM daily and ran the A/C off the generator until 1:30. This also provided a very small charge to the batteries, enough to replace what we had used overnight. (We limited Xantrex setting #28 to 15A.) Shut the generator off at 1:30 and ran the A/C off the battery bank/solar until 4:30. This depleted it to 70-80% SOC. Shut A/C off at 4:30 and restarted generator. Used microwave, etc. for dinner and batteries were fully charged by 6:30. Our reason to use the A/C on batteries was to spare our neighbors the generator noise during midday. (Most people around us were running their generators around lunch and dinner, too.) So, in those conditions we were able to run A/C on batteries for 3 hours and replenish that in 2 hours with the generator. We used approx. 1 gallon of gas daily in this mode. (Because lithiums take a charge so well, the little generator ran full out while recharging). Our little 2000W Honda did fine running the A/C or charging the batteries, so the original poster's Yamaha should do just as well. However, if we wanted to bulk charge our batteries and run the A/C simultaneously we'd probably need a bigger generator. Hope this helps.

That's what happened to me. After I passed Technician they asked if I wanted to try the General test. I figured, "why not," and passed.

We were out in our Clam during a protracted downpour last week. There were a few drops leaking from a couple of the seams on the outer edge of the roof, and a few more snuck around our side panels, but we stayed dry in the middle.

No way I'd attach a sun shade to our Girard awning. Seems way too flimsy. And I wouldn't disable the automatic retraction, either. But you could. Each awning has a separate power switch on the main control panel.

The Sport model of the Clam has "windows" - one section of screen on each wall can be zipped open and rolled up for more airflow. That helps.

Another vote for a dedicated weather radio and another ham here (K1PDB). Not active with ham right now but might pick it up again after retirement.

We just spent 8 days dry camping in a state park with bathhouses. We only used the (standard) toilet overnight/early morning and for "emergencies." We used the bathhouse the rest of the time. Our black tank read 69% full when we dumped on the way out.

Both of our amber reflectors on the front of the trailer are filling with water. Anyone know how these are attached?

Right, no Anderson with our dually. Been towing fine without it so far.

#1150 Eggcelsior at Hammonassett State Park in Connecticut recently.

Ok, closed it is. Thanks. That's what we've always done but got curious if others did the same.

Does anyone tow their trailer with the main/large MaxxAir roof vent open or do you always close it when traveling?

We like our upgraded mattresses and street side awning. Wish we could have gotten the Truma A/C. Lithium is great. Front storage basket helps make up for limited exterior storage. I keep my slippers and sandals in the basement via the inside hatch. The Furrion rear camera is pretty good. Not sure if they'll install a different one.

Unless you specifically want accessories with the Oliver logo on them most of the things Oliver sells in their small store can be purchased elsewhere for less. Check out our blog, listed in my signature, for details and reviews about some of the items we purchased.

We have a standard toilet/black tank. Toilet paper goes in the tank with everything else. We spent 5 days dry camping in a state park with the park bathrooms readily accessible, so we only used the black tank overnight/wake up. Careful with water and 2 navy showers each. Tank readings at the end were: Fresh 38%, Grey: 38%, Black 31%. We spent a week with full hookups, taking longer showers and using the trailer bathroom exclusively and I found myself dumping the tanks roughly every 1.5 days.

Olivers aren't perfect, nor are any other RVs. Just looking at other owner forums and watching YouTube will show you that. I'm still hopeful that the overall better design and materials used in Olivers will make this trailer our favorite eventually. I will say that the Service department has been responsive to our problems so far.

Service told me they were forwarding this incident to the Engineering and Quality departments for review.

Last night I heard the fridge gas ignitor kick in, which shouldn't happen because we're on shore power and the fridge was on Auto. This morning I went looking for the 120v fridge plug and didn't find it behind the kitchen drawers. It's actually under the drawers in our 2022, away from the water hose, so that's a design improvement. The fridge was plugged in. (There was even a big ziptie to hold the plug in, but nobody at the factory bothered to actually connect that.) My multimeter said the outlet was dead. Tracked the wire back to a junction box on the water heater and found this inside: Best guess from looking at it is that the fridge wire (top in photo) pulled partially out of the splice connector and overheated. There's no strain relief entering the j-box. I was lucky enough to find another splice connector lying in the bottom of the hull (dropped at factory) so I cut off the burnt wires, restripped them, and used the "spare" connector to reconnect them. Then I tied the two Romex cables together with a zip tie just outside the j-box to add some strain relief for the connectors. Seems to be OK now.

@Corvus, yes, the same situation. I was able to stop the creaking at home by adjusting the aluminum "collar" under the trailer. Pretty proud of myself. Then we moved to a campground... Right back to creaking again. 😑 It does sound like rubbing on the fiberglass hull to me. Complicating matters: the rectangular hole in the mounting bracket under the bed was cut too large. (These appear to be cut by hand!) As a result, the head of the carriage bolt "strips out" in the hole, so I can't torque that nut to the required 43 ft lb. When I get above 28 ft lb on that nut the carriage bolt turns in the bracket hole. Service ticket submitted to see what OTT has to say about it.

Our left stabilizer Jack creaks a bit when flexed. The sound seems to be from the jack post rubbing on the fiberglass where it passes through the body. Hard to be sure, but this jack may have a bit more flex than the other one. All 4 bolts are tight. It's most noticable when the jack is lightly loaded. If I put a bit more weight on it, it seems to settle down. The other jack is quiet. Anybody else notice Jack noise like this? I attached a short video. PXL_20220726_233411606.mp4

Our current checklist: RV Quick Checklist 1 tires checked 2 Rearview camera on 3 Bathroom drain closed (in) 4 Shower curtain secured 5 Bathroom cabinet shut 6 Bathroom window closed 7 Bathroom vent closed 8 bathroom items secured 9 bathroom door closed 10 Check ladder secure points 11 Awning switches off 12 Awning remote stored 13 Microwave tray secure 14 fan in fridge 15 fridge doors locked 16 fridge on 12v 17 Sink cover stored 18 Stove off 19 cooktop cover closed 20 pots/pans/dishes 21 furnace/AC off 22 Marine fan stowed 23 roof vent closed/fan off 24 Remotes stored 25 TVs secured 26 antenna booster off 27 AC alarm off 28 Gas water heater off 29 water pump off 30 Xantrex setting #28 to 5 (storage) or 25 (camping) or 15 (generator) 31 weather radio off 32 thermometer stored 33 doors/drawers/windows closed 34 blinds closed 35 Cabin lights off 36 LP gas off 37 Electric water heater off/on 38 sewer hose secured 39 Install repeater 40 tire covers off 41 leveling jacks up 42 water/elec./TV/sewer d/c 43 Close tailgate 44 bikes secured 45 Wheel step removed 46 Ball hitch pinned and locked 47 parking brake set 48 Chains on 49 breakaway cable 50 Tongue jack up 51 vehicle lights checked 52 wheel chocks out 53 Linx levelers stored 54 door mat stored 55 doors/compartments locked 56 steps retracted 57 trailer brakes checked 58 trailer transponder in 59 radiator clear 60 washer fluid checked 61 ATF checked 62 brake fluid checked 63 coolant checked

I installed the new flange OTT sent as a warranty replacement. Black ABS plastic. Decided to go ahead and use it since this is warranty work and any parts changes I made would be on me. I did put a little silicone lube on the pipe to make it easier to insert. I also noticed something that may be the root of the problem: the 4 screws that secure the flange to the floor are larger in diameter than the holes in the flange, so the screw threads were biting into the flange as well as the floor. I believe at least some of the screws were bottoming out in their countersinks without pulling the flange tight to the floor. The screw felt tight, but it was only tightening against the flange itself. Before installing the replacement flange I drilled out the screw holes so the screws turned freely in their holes. The toilet seems much more solid now. We'll see how long it lasts. Next time, if out of warranty, it'll be a metal flange...

Oops! Fixed!