topgun2

In previous discussions regarding weight distribution/anti-sway hitches we have beaten the issue to death. I believe that most agree that the Oliver does NOT sway during normal and possibly even some emergency situations. I also think that most of us agree that for vehicles that do not REQUIRE weight distribution, these types of hitches are simply NOT necessary. However, many vehicles (like the Ford F-150) DO require the use of a weight distribution hitch. I have used several different brands of these types of hitches - all have had good and bad points and all have had times where the process of connecting/dis-connecting has been a "problem". I have found that the Andersen is certainly no worse than any of the others in this regard and it is, perhaps, even easier. My argument regarding these hitches is not only regarding the FACT that they are required for some (actually read that most since I believe that most of us do not tow with vehicles rated in the "HD" range), but, I believe that they add a measure of additional safety. This safety is obtained in at least two ways. First, with the weight of the combined unit (tow vehicle and Oliver) more evenly spread over the axles and therefore the things that actually touch the road, one has better use of the suspension and brakes thus making the ride and performance of the tow vehicle more stable, reliable, consistent and safe in virtually all situations. Secondly, in the event of a situation where the combined unit (this includes the tow vehicle, Oliver and driver) was placed anywhere near its maximum the fact that there is additional connection between the tow vehicle and the Oliver should help. Certainly I hope to never be in this situation. But, I also hope to never need my house insurance (nor my life insurance). The decision to buy "insurance" (or not) is a personal one (even though I hate it when some people whine about not having insurance after the fact). I too have had some "problems" with the Andersen making noise while turning. Beginning today Andersen is shipping a new design which (hopefully) will get rid of this noise once and for all. They have increased the taper of the ball shaft inside the housing and changed the "whale-tail" where it attaches to the bottom of the ball shaft. This change now allows the whale-tail to "float" or pivot up and down on the end of the ball shaft see (picture below - note that the old design had a complete circular "collar" where the two "tabs" are now located for attachment to the ball shaft ). I've been told that for any current owner of the "old style" unit, Andersen will do an exchange of the tail and ball/housing unit for $100. Finally, I can say nothing but good things about the way Andersen conducts its business. Certainly they are in the class of Oliver in this regard. They have bent over backwards to try making sure that I am a happy customer and have done all that I've asked for and more in this regard. Bill

Obviously most of the owners of these wonderful campers have written that check - all for a reason. AND, now you too know the reason(s). Lob away with those questions - there are some very good minds here that just love the excitement of helping a (prospective) new owner get into our world. Bill

Dean - its great to have you back and I certainly look forward to meeting you and Laura. Bill

Basically it is because of the way the Oliver sits on the frame and the way the front "cowling" comes down over the frame. In order to use most other (if not all other) weight distribution hitches one would need to cut away portions of this "cowling". Bill

Trish & Jack - I believe that since your account is listed under your "username", the only way to change the "username" is to delete your account and establish a new account under the new "username" that you desire. Of course this means that you will have to re-enter all of the other data that you need to, but .... If this is what you want to do then simply look for the drop down menu under the "Forums" tab at the top of this page, click on the "My Profile" in this drop down menu and then click the "gear" symbol. In the drop down menu that appears, click on "My Account" and then look towards the bottom of the screen for "delete account". Enter your current password and hit "delete". Then do what you initially did to set up your original account, but, use the new "username" that you desire. Bill

Mike & Carol - that is very nice and CLASSY - just like both of you! Bill

Fisher2 - just type Micro-air in the search box and you will get most of the info that I think you need. Also, note that effective August 31st the company that sells them will no longer be offering a discount directly to Oliver customers. However, if you order one from Oliver it is possible that they will get you a discount. Bill oops! I mis-read your post. However, I still think that you will get some helpful info if you do the search. But, I don't know if there is anything specific to the Honda EZ Start. Bill

Mike & Carol - Ya got a picture of your door magnets? Bill

dedroll - go to the main "Forum" tab ( the funny looking "F") and then type "tools" in the search box. I'd skip over the first 4 pages of results and go straight to page 5. Good luck - Bill

https://eclipse2017.nasa.gov/safety Thought I'd do a bit of quick research on this topic since it could be fairly important to the eyes. It appears that I was partially incorrect regarding the three year time limit - the "cheap" glasses DO NOT have an expiration as long as "eclipse viewers compliant with the ISO 12312-2 standard adopted in 2015". Also, welding helmets should have a rating of Shade 12 or higher. See the above NASA link for full details. Bill p.s. or you could donate your glasses - see: http://www.msn.com/en-sg/lifestyle/lifestylegeneral/dont-throw-away-your-solar-eclipse-glasses%e2%80%94heres-what-you-should-do-with-them-instead/ar-AAqB3Qp

Steve - I use that stuff all the time for cleaning my tires and wheels. Do not let it dry on virtually any surface. The cheapest price that I've been able to find is at WalMart. Bill

Those are the valves that are used to switch from "standard" pressure shore water hookup to Boondocking (i.e. drawing from the fresh water tank) to using the water pump to suck water into the fresh water tank from a non-pressurized source (i.e. five gallon bucket). Bill

Welding helmets are OK as long as they are of a high enough grade (sorry, but I don't remember exactly what that number is - 14?). As Sherry said, you can't be careful enough given that the damage to the eyes does not hurt when it is happening and most of us only get two (note that some mothers have an extra set in the back). Bill

Mike & Carol - our thoughts are with you guys and certainly with those directly in the path of this thing. Good luck and if there is ANYTHING that you might even think we could do to help, just yell. Bill

Sherry - be careful in that I understand that the typical glasses only have a usable life to them of about three years. Bill

I don't think that "303" will help solve your black streak problem. For those streaks under the "porch" lights you are going to have to seal those gaskets with something - Captain Tolly's Crack or you might want to call Richie (he took Jason's job in customer service since Jason is doing other stuff) - at 931-306-9232) and ask if he still has some of the sealer that was given out at the 2017 Owner's Rally for this purpose. I've used any one of a number of brands of "detailer" that are sold in auto stores and WalMart to clean both the porch light and other black streaks - its easy, spray on wipe off. Good Luck! Bill

I agree on the "bargain" at $80, but why not get it NOW for $10! Bill

Reed - those are the "old" three way valves. Don't know exactly when they made the switch but, as far as I know, this is what was used through at least March, 2016. I've never had a problem with them. Bill

Any chance that we could make this thing part of the rally?

Matt - FYI Just the day before yesterday when I made my reservation the gal said that she would mark my reservation as being with the Oliver Rally, BUT, there was nothing set up for the rally yet according to her records. Bill

As John requested, here are a couple of pictures of my ball. This ball has about 4,600 miles on it. While it is difficult to tell from the pictures, I do not consider the wear to be excessive - it appears to me that basically the chrome plating has worn in the spots shown, but, there are no real gouges or divots that would indicate to me that anything was amiss. Bill

By the look of the cuffs of the gloves flapping in the wind, you were moving along at a good rate of speed - true? Bill

Bill - great color saturation on that first Ollie shot. Assume that you entered Jason's contest and can't imagine that you will be beat. Nice job. Bill

By the looks of the campground map, things are filling up fast. Most of the water front sites are gone! I got G-13 for Thursday through Sunday. The website for reservations was fairly slow and no one called me back after two messages that I wanted to make reservations. This must be one busy place! Bill p.s. I stand corrected - a very nice lady did call me back about 1 1/2 hours after I posted this. During the conversation she confirmed that all sites listed as 50 amp also have 30 amp service.

It too has amazed me when I see the number and size of pebbles both on top of the rear and inside the bumper compartment. I guess that the good news is that (for the most part) the velocity of these when they hit is not the same as those that tend to hit the front of the Oliver. I don't see why this spray on protection film wouldn't work on the rear of the Oliver. But, at some point the masking, taping and then removal simply would not be worth the time and I'd look for a more permanent solution similar to what you are looking at for this coming winter. In the meantime it appears to me that you have two potential solutions - slow down or don't travel those roads causing the problem. Bill