topgun2

In the December, 2016 issue of Trailer Life magazine is an article titled "Leading Lights" starting on page 28. An Oliver Elite II is the featured picture and on page 32 is a brief synopsis of the Oliver product. Bill

Guys, I've used "DampRid" ( https://www.amazon.com/DampRid-FG50T-Hi-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber/dp/B0029EGUNG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479333927&sr=8-1&keywords=dehumidifier+crystals ) for a number of years without problems in several campers. I do replace and/or refill the crystals at least once over the winter. WalMart also sells this stuff. Bill

Here's another winter project for you. Shortly after picking up Twist this past February I was in my workshop cleaning up a bit when I noticed I still had some left over cedar closet lining boards. So, I took the black mats from the two shelves in the closet of Twist, laid them on top of the shelving boards, traced the outline and then cut each of the boards using a band saw (one could use a scroll saw, small hand saw, or coping saw) on the inside of the line that I traced. I put the boards back together (each board is tongue and groove) and tested for fit. You don't have to be exact on the cuts since most of the edges are difficult to see inside the closet and pantry. A little sanding of the edges and then I took wood glue, placed a small amount in the groove and allowed the boards to sit overnight with a little weight on them to keep them from warping. I did this same procedure for the bottom of the pantry. Finally, I took the little scrap pieces that were left over, sanded them and placed them into the other overhead cupboards. This thin cedar lining can be found at Lowe's and probably Home Depot too. Now, not only does the closet and pantry smell nice, but, the cedar is a natural bug repellent too. Bill

Don, I always carry a set of the "lego" levelers but have found that I tend to use the blocks more often. I guess it is simply because I get too lazy to put the legos together. Bill

Randy - I really didn't round off the corners, other than sanding them a little bit more, than the rest of the block prior to the poly application. I have used them on end without difficulty. The handles make the blocks easier to deal with, easier to see when leaving a campsite so I don't leave them, keep my hands/gloves cleaner and drier and reduces the chance of splinters. John - These blocks are not used to raise the Titanic. Since I rarely camp during the winter, they are rarely used in sub-freezing temps. The application of the poly was intended to prevent water absorption and make them last a bit longer. The main purpose is for use as "stabilizers", fine tuning the level of the camper and as Steve says to save time, lessen the use of power to the jacks, and reduce the risk of a bent jack. If I need to "level" the Oliver to any great extent, I normally use either "legos" or ramps under the tires on the low side. No, I do not use these for winter storage - they are too pretty to be left out all winter ;) Camp12 - Welcome also! In addition to Steve's comments, I've found that these can be used when my campsite is not very level (think mainly boondocking here) and I need the extra height on the low side - I really don't like extending the jacks to the limit if I can help it mainly due to the torque that might be applied to them.

Don and Guys, You're welcome. With a camper that I owned prior to getting Twist, I "lost" a wheel bearing set in southern Wyoming on a late Saturday afternoon AND a couple of the lugs from the drum. With no cell phone reception I dashed into the nearest town and found a trailer place that would help me if I brought the wheel and bearings and drum to them. Dashing back to the camper on the roadside in 100 degree heat I did get the thing apart (amazing how quickly you can do this when you have to) and quickly got back to town. The owner of the store stayed past normal closing to help and by the time I got back to the camper and got all things put back together it was just about dark. I've always carried a set of bearings since. I certainly know that if the bearings on one side of the camper have a problem, it is fairly likely that the other side is not far behind. But, in carrying enough to repair the one side I figure that I will be able to get to a place where I can have the other side looked after. Hopefully I will never have to use the spare set! Bill

These were made from some scrap 6×6. Cut the length at approximately 11 inches – enough to clear the onboard jacks on level ground – and sand lightly. Take a piece of scrap rope (I used plastic/nylon rope because it does not absorb water) at about 9 inches, heated the ends to stop fraying and added a bit or heat shrink tape for good measure. Then using an electric wire staple attach it to one side, bunch it up a little so that you have enough room to side your hand under it and then attach the other side. Finally, give it a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and you are the pride of the neighborhood. Certainly a good, simple winter project. Bill

Buzzy, Anything that I can do to help the Master! These were made from some scrap 6x6. Cut the length at approximately 11 inches - enough to clear the onboard jacks on level ground - and sand lightly. Take a piece of scrap rope (I used plastic/nylon rope because it does not absorb water) at about 9 inches, heated the ends to stop fraying and added a bit or heat shrink tape for good measure. Then using an electric wire staple attach it to one side, bunch it up a little so that you have enough room to side your hand under it and then attach the other side. Finally, give it a couple of coats of exterior polyurethane and you are the pride of the neighborhood. Certainly a good, simple winter project. (I also posted this over under Mods to make it easier to find in the future) Bill

Joe, As has been said before on this Forum, a call to the sales office at Oliver might help you now or in the future. Many times they will know of an Oliver that is either on the market of about to be on the market before it becomes public knowledge. Bill

Mike, I hate saying this at a time like this and I don't mean to scare you, but, whenever a breaker is tripped or a fuse is blown there are two things that you should do. One - try to figure out why it tripped or blew so that it will not happen again (i.e. repair what caused the problem or try to not overload that circuit again in the future). Two - if it was a fuse that blew then you should not only replace it but you should carry at least one spare of each fuse type you have for those "emergencies" on the road. Have a safe and fun trip! Bill

P.S. I purchased mine from Redneck Trailer Supplies (877) 973-3632. These are the same folks that Oliver uses. Bill

Grayson, Try "BK2-100" bearing kit from "Trailer Parts Pro" by "Redline". Kit consists of - 1.719" seal I.D. Bearings: L44649 and L68149 and seal 10-19. I have a 2016 Oliver Elite II. I bought two sets of these when I purchased my Oliver in the event I had a breakdown on the road in the middle of nowhere. I figured that it would be easier to find someone to replace the bearings than to find BOTH the bearings and someone to replace them. Or, I could do most of it myself on the side of the road if absolutely necessary. Hope this helps! Bill

On to New Orleans (part deux): After a nice evening at Natchez State Park we were up fairly early and on the road for the drive (about 6 hours) down to New Orleans. With the exception of the last 15 miles or so while driving within the New Orleans city limits, the drive was reasonably pleasant. Given that it is just about the closest campground to the French Quarter we had made reservations at the Jude Travel Park (7400 Chef Menteur Hwy) with a Good Sam rate of $30 per night. The neighborhood is not the best and when I drove up to the gate I was thinking that this just might not be such a good idea. However, there was a hot tub, a pool and the showers were clean and best of all Marla (the owner) was extremely nice and just full of knowledge about the town, places to eat, things to see and do, etc. The campground even offers a private shuttle service (for $5 per person one way) to the French Quarter and back. This is about half the price of a taxi and a few dollars less than parking. Site number 28 is just about the best in that there are trees for shade. After setting up camp we decided to try out Marla's shuttle service to the French Quarter. Not much has changed in the 30 years since we were last here. Still crowded with the same "interesting" aromas - definitely a party place. But the architecture is still interesting as is the history and food and drink. The next morning we drove over to the City Park where we found "The Morning Coffee Stand" near the Art Museum (be sure to ask for directions before you go or set your GPS for N29degrees 59minutes07.5 by W 090degrees05minutes41.6) and had our fill of beignets. Without the tourists and noise of Café du Monde in the French Quarter we enjoyed our coffee and obligatory beignets in a much nicer and more peaceful setting. We then headed to the National World War II museum(at 945 Magazine Street). Parking here in the blocks surrounding the Museum is designated as "premium", but, if you park a block and a half away the price is somewhat cheaper. We were told that the museum could take anywhere from 1/2 day to two days to see, so, even though we had stopped for coffee we were still there early. This is also a good idea to avoid some of the crowds that seem to gather from about 10am on. The admission price of $17 (senior and veteran price) seemed a bit high, but, was well worth it. After getting our tickets and having a short wait for our "train" was had the treat of seeing a Medal of Honor winner! This is one heck of a museum! Certainly it could take all of two days to see, read, hear and look at all of the things on display. However, knowing that we were on a bit of a schedule, we left the museum at around 3pm, headed over to the St. Charles Street Car line and headed to the Garden District. The one way fare is $.40 (senior rate) and exact change is required or you can purchase a pass for $3.00 and ride public transportation for the entire day. Once down in the Garden District we took out the self guided walking tout that Marla had given us and started walking. Anne Rice's house, Payton Manning's place, Nicholas Cage, the lead singer for Nine Inch Nails (everyone knows him don't they?) and the place where Jefferson Davis died plus a bunch more are all there. Back on the streetcar to the museum, a bite to eat, get the truck and head back to Jude Travel Park for the night. On our final day we once again headed to the French Quarter and drove to a parking lot just outside the Quarter that Marla recommended. No problems getting there or parking - (they accept credit cards via a machine) - a walk on the Moon walk and Riverside walk and then from one end of the Quarter to the other. A late lunch at the Napoleon House ( reasonable menu at reasonable prices) and then back to walking. Once we were "dog tired" we headed back to camp. The next morning we took our time packing up for the trip home. Being either a hard one day (12 hours) or an easy two days, we decided to take the two days of mostly Interstate driving to get to Western North Carolina. Unfortunately, at about the half way point of the drive we picked a campground at random called "Lakeside RV Park" in Opelika, Alabama. This was perhaps the worse RV park I've ever stay at. Certainly should have looked around a bit more before handing over my $40! Do not even think about using the shower house or restrooms! Good weather, great food and drink, history, architecture, a great Oliver, what more could one want for a final trip of the season? Bill

Steve, My apologies - I originally read your post as wanting information on tire covers - duh! In talking with ScottyGS prior to ordering my calmark cover I decided to slightly alter his measurements so that there might be a bit more coverage on the sides and rear and a bit less at the front (see attached). I have not received my cover yet, so, I can not tell you how these adjustments worked. I had an ADCO cover on a previous camper and I believe that the CalMark is a better cover with both priced about the same. Bill

Dennis, I've seen the inside of Steve and Tali's rig and can tell you that they are wired for everything one can imagine. If you ever have the chance - don't miss it! What Steve describes above only scratches the surface. Bill

OK, The fresh water tank drain is a small valve located under the curbside access panel in the rear of the camper. There is a "porthole" cover near the cold air return vent that you can use to get to it, but, if this is your first time I suggest getting to it via that access panel. Usually it is hidden under the duct work but it will be there. Once you find it and turn the knob on the valve to be inline with the blue pipe that it attached to, you should see water drain out of a small tube under the camper. Once it has finished draining don't forget to move that valve knob back to its original position that is cross-wise of the blue pipe. Bill

Mike, I'm not the expert in this area, but, hope that some of this might help. Yes, you can charge your batteries as a group - your onboard charger does this all the time by either charging while you are plugged into shore power (110 voltage line from your house or campsite power pole) or while you drive down the road plugged into your tow vehicle. Obviously, the simplest way to charge is to run an extension cord from your house to the shore line input on the street side of the camper, plug it in and let the batteries charge. You might want to check the water level in the batteries prior to doing this just to make sure that they are topped up. It does take a little bit of time for a charge to show up but overnight should just about do it unless there are other issues going on (such as low fluid level in the batteries). With regards to battery switches - the first thing that I would check is the breaker panel located under the dinette. Make sure all those breakers are in the "on" position. Then ,if you have the solar option, under the access panel on the street side rear of the camper is a large red "dial" switch that should be in the "on" position and near it are two reasonability strange looking "breakers" that are black. If either of these two breakers have "tripped" you should see a little "yellow" flag sticking out to the side. Simply push this yellow "flag" back into the black thing - don't worry you will not get shocked as long as that is the only thing you touch. Finally, unless your batteries are dead (which I doubt) and you have solar, I'd hook-up and leave and let the sun and your tow vehicle take care of the batteries (assuming of course that the fluid level in the batteries is good). Have a safe trip! Bill

Matt - I've got "issues", but, not with you. Thanks for staying on top of this thing. Bill

Steve, Welcome, congrates on the new Oliver and try looking at ScottyGS's post below re winterizing. He posted the following link for tire cover at Camping World. Hope this helps! Bill

David and Susan, And now - let the real fun begin! Between making it your own, the where did I store that thing and the joy of getting friendly with your new "baby", this is a really enjoyable time. Whole worlds that one never knew existed open up. Have fun and be safe out there. Bill

Mine built January 2016 doesn't have four screws that I can see. Bill

Dang! A loss and a scare! Thanks all around - to Tommy for all that he has done for me personally. Certainly I wish Tommy and his family well. to medical staff and/or those above for Phil's recovery. That smile in the picture is how I remember Phil from my delivery day. to Steve for letting us all know - perhaps Steve can apply for Tommy's job? Bill

Mike, "I will get out there tomorrow and find that hot water bypass. My understanding is that it is a valve of some sort under the water heater which is under my bed next to the furnace." If you can't find a picture of the winterization valves in question, you might want to take a look at Buzzy's article - EZ Winterizing System written July 17, 2016. This article has a picture of the valves in question AND shows the direction the valves should be placed in to by-pass the water heater. Obviously, once you have drained the heater, make sure that you put the valves back into the "standard" position so that the water heater may once again be filled BEFORE you try to heat water. Bill

Coy, As of 5:39pm (CDT I have no PM from you. Bill

Mike, With regards to Buzzy's water heater issue I would think that it would be fairly simple for short term "winterization" to simply use the by-pass (winterization) valves to by-pass the water heater, pull the anode rod/drain plug to empty the water heater and then, as you suggest, simply heat the rest of the camper. Certainly this would be fairly easy assuming that you store your Oliver at home or at a place that has electric. With regards to the outside shower - it is already inside two doors, but I would still pack that area from the outside with a little bit of insulation. Just to be on the really safe side you might also want to leave open the dinette "hatch" and the curbside rear "hatch". Bill