topgun2

Stan, Details? Is that suctioned to the fridge? Where did you get it? How much? How long have you had it stuck (assuming suction)? Bill

Randy does bring up another possible solution as to why Weyzer's chain came out of the bracket in the first place - the bracket moved. If the bracket moved, the chain could have become loose therefore letting the nut back off the bolt. In the fairly short distance that was traveled I still find this to be unlikely, but, certainly possible. While John's Nylock solution would probably help, I'm not so sure that it is as simple as it seems. In the short period of time that I've had Twist, I have had the Andersen chains on and off the camper at least 10 to 15 times. Most of this is for storage, but on at least two occasions I've had to take a chain off in order to get the "whale tail" back on the hitch. This job is easier with a regular "free running" nut as opposed to Nylocks. Also, I'm a bit confused with John's comment about turning around the bolt. Unless I'm missing something here, one can not turn around the bolt because of the chain link that is welded to the other end. And, at least with the Oliver, the propane tank shroud pretty much protects one from "opening up one's shin" on those exposed bolt threads. I'm still curious as to what Andersen has to say. Bill

This is not exactly the answer to the question that Stan asked regarding using suction cups to hold up a towel rack or paper towel holder - but - on the suggestion of one of our fellow members that attended to Eggs on the Hiawasee rally, I bought both the small and large versions of suction cups sold at Harbor Freight. Both hold very nicely. I needed a way to hang my wet fishing waders up to dry after a day of fishing. I simply put on of the large bright orange ones on the side of the camper near the door. Right before I go to bed I take the now dry waders in all ready for the next day. The bright orange color reminds me to remove it before breaking camp and heading on down the road. Currently these large ones are on sale for $2.00. I use the smaller black ones inside the closet to hold my laundry bag. After a week it still is sucking. Bill

Weyzer, When you hooked up your Andersen and tightened the chains, did you have the same number of threads showing at the rear of the bolt as you had showing when it was first installed? If yes, I can't imagine how the nut could have come loose given the amount of pressure that is on the chains/red bushing/washer/nut. With mine (six threads showing when all hooked up) even when making a sharp turn, the inside chain is still very tight. Having said the above, I had wondered about those nuts coming loose and even thought about buying an extra nut to put on acting as a "jam" nut to prevent a problem such as you have experienced. I decided against this because in the research I did prior to buying mine I did not find one instance of this kind of problem. However, I may now have to re-think this. Please let us all know what Andersen has to say. Bill

Weyser, Welcome to both of you! It sounds like you are female and perhaps traveling alone? Well, I know that over on the FGRV Forum there are a number of females that travel all over the country (both together and alone) in several different types of fiberglass campers. When you get a chance you might want to take a look. Bill

" Will keep all advised and if you think of something I am not.. would appreciate the advice" Scotty, On a hot Sunday afternoon I'm sure that a cold beer could help find the problem : ). Bill

Overland, I think that there just might be a bit of confusion going on in this discussion, or at least a bit of "apples and oranges". On my 4x4 2011 F-150 Ecoboost there is about a 3 inch compression at the rear if I do not use my Andersen WDH. This amount of compression is nothing different than what I would expect if I were to put 450 to 500 pounds in the rear of the bed of the truck. However, the very nature of WDH is to distribute the weight more evenly between the truck's two axles. Therefore, when using a WDH the rear comes up a bit and the front of the truck goes down a bit. Hope this helps. Bill

Been there, done that (but its a good suggestion for all). I not only asked for (and received) a piece of the white fiberglass (Door cutout) , but, I got a piece of the fiber-granite(back splash for the kitchen) that matches what I had put in Twist. I did not use this for the table between the beds only because the piece of Plexiglas I had was already just about the correct size. I'm a bit of a packrat and I just hate seeing "good" things being thrown in the trash. My original idea for the fiber-granite was to make a "spice rack", soap dish, kitchen sponge, etc. holder that would sit on the kitchen counter (think multi-tiered thing here). However, now that I've lived with Twist for a bit, I'm re-thinking this. In any case I still like having the extra pieces of fiberglass around - you never know. Bill

I've seen checklists both over on the Good Sam Club site and at the "playstore" (Google's app store for Andriod devices). However, if you are looking for an Oliver specific checklist then as a card carrying member I also vote for Buzzy. Bill

Steve and Tali, I used an adjustable hole saw to cut a 4 inch hole - that carbide tipped saw was toast when I was done. I'm guessing that regular hole saws are better, but, that glass sure is tough stuff. Did you "do" both sides for access to the chocks or just the curbside? Also, I assume that you got the door and hardware from OTT? Bill

Scotty, Mine is a 2011 V-6 ecoboost F-150. I've been set at a 6 on the brake controller since about day 3 after starting there, going up and down and then getting back to the 6. While one should adjust this depending on conditions (wet roads, dirt or gravel roads, certainly ice and snow) I have just let it stay at 6. Of course, so far, I've not driven Twist in snow. With regards to the connector - I presently have a problem with my left turn signals. While the right turn signal functions properly, the left will blink all lights on the left plus the backup light on the right. There is no indication of a problem on the screen inside the truck. Since I'm going back to the Mothership in early July, I will ask them to look into the problem. Just think of what the pogo effect would have been without the Andersen. I get just shy of 14 mpg - cruise on 65 mph max or 5 mph below posted and only use the tow/haul function in really bad hill country. I do use larger extended mirrors - the kind that slip fit over the existing mirrors (I already had these from towing a different camper). They do help me see just a bit further behind Twist thus making changing lanes a bit easier. Have you tried some electrical grease in that connector? Bill

Did you pay your dues on time? Seriously, nice rig and congrates! Bill

Mike - Glad you like it - be sure to thank Trumpetguy since it was his original idea. The piece of plastic I used is only 3/16 thick but if you use wood I think that 3/8 is about as thin as I would go. Certainly one would not want it any thicker than necessary because you would not want anyone either sitting or sleeping on the area where it might be stored to be able to feel it. Bill

Randy - I've only traveled about 100 miles since the install. But, I agree with Ed and Marsha - once stuck I don't think that they will be coming off any time soon. In early July I will leave on a two month fly fishing trip out West. With the dirt roads, interstates, cold and hot temps, that should be a real test. I'll report back in early September. Bill

Its now been about two weeks since I did the installation, so, I went out to check to make sure that the gutters were still on. I'm happy to report that there are absolutely no problems - there has been no movement in the gutters and they are still FIRMLY stuck. If I had it to do over again I certainly would have made the sides longer by about two inches. Since putting the gutter around the curve of the corners of the window places a slight bit of "stress" on the gutter (it wants to remain straight) the additional two inches would have allowed for a bit more straight edge down the side of the window and thus more "glued" surface without any stress. Bill or

When visiting Trumpetguy's "Setting Sail" I noticed a temporary table that was set between the twin beds. Just the night before I had thought that something like this would be very handy for placing a snack, the tv remote or even a drink. In addition, this table/shelf could be used to hold a CPAP machine or similar item for those that need these things. During the day or for travel, the table/shelf is easily removed and stored under the couch/bed. I believe that Trumpetguy made his out of a piece of wood, but, I had a fairly heavy piece of dark smoke Plexiglas scrap laying around, so, I used that. The rough dimensions are 20 x 10 inches, but, it could be made as necessary. Once the piece is cut , sanded and the edges rounded, it is simply "wedged" between the two mattresses to hold it in place. Bill

Help! I know that I must be missing something, but, this has bothered me for at least a couple of weeks now. When looking at the picture of the Oliver on the Forum's Home page, why is the awning on the driver's side (street side) and not the passenger side (curb side)? The obvious answer is that the "negative" from which the picture was made was reversed. Or, the owner of that Ollie decided to not have the usual curbside placement, but opted for the streetside instead. Or, this is a British model. Or, the gin and tonic that David owes me is kicking in a bit too early. Or, ??? Bill

Dave, I asked and OTT told me that they would have to order the part, but, that they could install it. I will not be there until July 6th, but, soon after I will report back here on how it performs. Bill

Wow! I thought that everyone knew about the Windcrasher (Ron Merrit) video. I must have watched that video 20 times - mostly before I got delivery of Twist, but, even a couple of times since. Ron also has a blog where he mainly talks about mods to his "toys" but it is worth a view from time to time. I wish that there was an easy way to alert people to such things. I remember once I decided to order my Ollie there was this feeling of being overwhelmed due to the number of decisions that needed to be made regarding options, colors, flooring, decals, etc. I thought that I did a fairly good job and spent a fair amount of time doing it (nothing like Buzzy seems to be doing, but...). Then the day before delivery my wife and I had taken Anita out to dinner and she mentioned that a lot of people ordered the extra hook on the outside right of the bathroom door (a place to put your cloths, towel, robe, etc. when showering) and the "hatch" on the propane cover to allow easier access to the propane bottles. Can't believe how stupid I felt for not having thought of those earlier. It's these "little" things that one does not think about until you have lived with the camper for a period of time. In a few weeks I'm stopping by the Mothership to have a couple of these kind of things done (dimmer switch for the cabin lights, water pump switch placed near the "winterizing" outlet of the outside of the camper, perhaps another towel bar on the door to the pantry, etc.) I too will be interested in learning how other showerheads work. Perhaps there is a better mousetrap out there. Bill

Stan, Thanks so much for the help! I'm not leaving until July 5th, so, you can warn those fish that I'm on my way. Have a good, safe trip and best to Carol and Gunner. Bill

Since I store Twist about ten miles from the house I can not easily go get measurements. Does anyone know or can anyone get the exact measurement of the interior of the upper left hand kitchen drawer and the surface of both the entry steps (width and depth). Also, I assume that both those steps have about a 3/4 inch thickness (not the thickness of the aluminum but of what one sees when they are in the "down" position). I would guess that all of the drawers and steps are about the same, but Twist is a 2016 Elite II model with the dovetail drawers and the steps are the "double" steps. Thanks for the help - saves me a trip to the bone yard. Bill

Before I started using the WiFi Ranger and during the initial setup for the camera system I remember that the instructions called for a "pairing" of the WiFi transmitter with the receiving device (my andriod Samsung 8" tablet). Unfortunately, when I decided to use the WiFi Ranger to help boost the signal strength I forgot to "pair" the transmitter with the Ranger. This resulted in a message from the Ranger that it could not connect. After a call to Rear View Satefy where a very nice, polite young lady reminded me about the "pairing" part of the original installation instructions, all that is right with the world returned to normal and the Ranger connected to the transmitter. I did ask this young lady why the "pairing" had to be done and she informed me that this is how the "private" network is set in order to make sure that others can not "hijack" the signal. Sounded good to me. In the event one either does not have a WiFi Ranger or for some reason they do not wish to use the Ranger, Rear View Safety does sell extension cables that would allow for the moving of the transmitter from the back of the camper to the front. With the tranmitter that much closer to the tow vehicle, I can not imagine that there would be any issues with signal strength. Bill

Sorry I missed this one! You guys were right on it and got the problem solved quickly - nice work and great trouble shooting. Just one more reason to own an Oliver in my opinion. Bill

Stan, Don't forget your touque wrench! Bill

Dave, Anything new in your research of this issue? I'll be at the Mothership in very early July and if there is a "fix" it sure would be nice to get it done at that time. Bill