CRM

What Houghton really should be doing is working on a new control board for these units. One with Dip switches to be able to select whether the fan runs or not with the compressor and the ability to use a standard wall mount thermostat. One for compressor run time would be a bonus, though that problem might solve itself with a standard thermostat.

For anyone interested in purchasing one, Home Depot has the Maxxfan with LED on sale for $73 at the moment. MaxxFan Dome Plus with 12-Volt Fan and LED Light

If I'm following correctly, the compressor would only run for 3 min at a time yesterday but ran for 12:30 straight today? I wonder why? Also, may be perfectly normal for this unit, but a temperature differential between cabin temp and supply air over over 30 degrees seems too high to me. If the supply air is at 40 degrees the actual evaporator temp is most likely very close to freezing the condensate on the fins.

My wife recently contacted KTT to inquire about purchasing mattresses and the owner of the company told her that they no longer sell custom mattresses for Oliver's.

Welcome to the forum! My wife and I are big fans of rails-to-trails riding too. I ride 10-12k miles per year and the vast majority is done on rails-to-trails and MUP trails.

In homes and commercial buildings you're dealing a much higher ratio of evaporator surface area to conditioned space so humidity rise will be much smaller, but it will still be there whenever you blow air over evaporator coils with condensation on them. And I'm not doubting your findings under your test conditions, I just know when I tested running the fan after shutdown here in Florida with +90% outside RH that the humidity began to rise immediately. I do see how skipping that first 52 seconds and then running the fan occasionally to sample the air over the thermistor might keep from having to relocate it and not release as much humidity into the cabin, though..

Running the blower for 52 seconds right after shut down would defeat the purpose, I think... In my expedience, humidity starts rising immediately after the compressor shuts down if the fan continues to run. I wouldn't be worrying about a slight improvement in efficiency if I were trying to keep the humidity as low as possible.

The EPA approved R-32 for use in window units back in 2015. It's also a component of R-410A which is just a 50-50 mix of R-32 and R-125 so we all already have some R-32 in our Ollies.

Yep. if you know this is the unit you want, then no sense waiting.

From what I've been told, ALL new air conditioner and refrigeration units must be R32 starting Jan 1st 2025. Probably going to see some good deals on 410a units before then, but I'm waiting until next year to purchase a new AC unit for our Ollie.

Based on your location, you may want to research the watts required while cooling under "desert" conditions on any of the units you are considering. The Coleman 9.2k I'm considering uses almost 25% more watts under desert conditions than it does in "standard" conditions- 1150 watts vs 1410. Not sure if this large difference in watts is typical or something specific to this unit itself...

All things being equal, when it comes to controlling humidity, higher CFM is not your friend- especially in the small area of an LE2. The air does not stay in contact with the evaporator core as long and less moisture is removed from the air than it is at a lower CFM. To make matters worse, the higher CFM of the 13.5k coupled with the higher BTU's will knock the temp down faster resulting in shorter run times reducing the amount of humidity removed even more.

So far, the hottest we've camped in is 101 with 90% humidity in full sun. There's got to be a breaking point, and I hope to never be camping somewhere to find it!

In my expedience, 9.2k has been more than enough. Haven't been at a high altitude or in temps much over 100 degrees with our LE2 yet but I don't see how it wouldn't be enough. If not, either the BTU's are overrated or the LE2 isn't as insulated as we think it is. A 13.5k or 15k unit might cool the inside down faster but they're certainly overkill under the typical conditions we camp under.

I figured the dehumidifier mode was just a low cool mode. Totally fine with that as long as it can hold a temp in the low 70's with low humidity under the same conditions I tested in. I have my doubts now if the fan is always running but if the system has a way of throttling down the BTU's in that mode, then maybe?

Been looking to replace our 14yo 9.2k Coleman with a new unit, not because it isn't working well, but because of it's age and we don't want to be left without AC or have to have it replaced while traveling. Was thinking about purchasing the Houghton 9.5k since it was also available with a heatpump but was a little apprehensive because of the always on fan issue and the need to mod the unit to shut the fan down when the compressor shuts off to keep humidity down. Thought maybe because of the low 9.5k rating it would run longer and might not have the same humidity issues as the Houghton larger units so I decided to do a test using my Coleman in both the auto mode that it has which shuts down the fan when the compressor is off, as well as the always on low fan setting which I figured should emulate the Houghton 9.5k performance fairly well. Decided to test under the worst conditions to control humidity, conditions that are very common in the areas we camp- temps in the 70's at night with high humidity. The results were pretty shocking to me. As you can see in the pic, even with our smaller 9.2k Coleman the humidity shot up almost instantly when the fan was set to low/always on. Didn't expect this drastic of a rise so quickly and now I'm back to not knowing which direction to go... Not interested in modding a brand new Houghton, and also, not interested in a Truma since I don't want to have to have the custom fiberglass work done to accommodate it, nor do I even know how it performs under these same conditions. Has anyone here installed the Atmos 4.4 yet and used it similar conditions? Looks promising since it has a de-humidification / sleep mode, but it looks like it also operates with the fan always on too. Might just have to replace with a new Coleman Mach 8 Cub Plus since it has an auto fan mode and it can use our existing thermostat though I don't know how quiet that unit is. No heatpump either, though it does have a heat strip option.. The search continues...

If you have the room, you could always bring along a 15lb propane tank and connect to your grill using an adapter hose. Less expensive and wasteful than using hose small tanks plus it could be a backup for your Oliver's tanks. Personally, I'd try and remove the regulator and add a quick connect to the grill so I could use the Oliver's quick connects.

To use a Coleman Road Trip grill you would still need to do some piping to bypass the trailers regulator. Won't work right, or at all, if you just use the adapter on the grill side and plug into the trailer quick connect.

Have you removed the regulator on the Coleman stove? It won't work correctly if you haven't.

I have a hard time believing the whole debris excuse myself. If that was truly the cause I would think they'd be replacing whole engines and not just short blocks since some "debris" would likely find it's way up to the cam bearings too.

I could be wrong, but I thought someone here said that Oliver only orders 7k hitches to prevent any mix ups.

Just saw that someone on the Oliver Trailers Owners FB group said their 2019 has a 5k coupler on it.

Nice install! If I were King these would be standard in every RV.

This has the potential to be a disaster for Toyota, even worse than the 1st gen Tundra frame recalls. I know they'll make it right no matter what it takes but I see no other option than to drop the oil pan and pull the main bearing caps and inspect the bearings. Pretty sure the motor has to be pulled on these trucks to do this too.. Agree with you on the 5.7 V8. One of the best engines ever built, but even it had it's issues (valve springs) for the first couple of years it was out. I was planning on buying a new Tundra once the kinks were worked out, but looks like I'll have to wait a little longer than expected..

I'm with you on an Oliver not needing a 13.5k unit. We have a Coleman 9.2k which controls the heat and humidity here in Florida perfectly. My only issue is the age of our unit and that it lacks a heat pump and I want to change it out before we hit the road for an extended period of time in a couple of years. Looking at the 110 version of the 48v you linked to and it seems to check all the boxes. I know the Houghton's "issue" with the fan always running but hoping with a lower BTU unit that the compressor will run longer resulting in a lower amount of humidity in the cabin as well as on the evaporator coil so it won't be the issue it is on higher BTU units. Also, I think if you run the math that you won't be happy with the run time of that 48v unit on that 100ah battery. Maybe 1.5-2 hours?