CRM

Nice work !

I guess I should take a closer look at my faucet and tank valve box.. Didn't notice any cracking, but it's definitely the same one as yours and it might be better to change it out now and not have to get back into this a year or two down the road. I will also be putting in valves to isolate the plumbing but will be using manual valves since I hope to never camp in freezing temps anyway.

It was originally sold in Aug 2009 and is titled as a 2010. I've been told that it was the first LE2 sold to the public, as well as the last unit sold prior to the shutdown.

Thanks, it's definitely a unicorn! 😄 Outside of this basement floor issue and a few small leaks that needed repairing, she's in excellent shape for the year. Trying to keep most of it as original as possible but will definitely be adding solar in the near future.

Pretty sure that the insulation is original as it goes under the tanks. Looks like fiberglass in the pic but I'm fairly certain that it isn't. Looks and feels more like wool. Edit- It also has the lizard skin spray-on insulation which seems to be everywhere else other than the basement. Plan on adding some Reflectix once I'm finished with the flooring.

Since I purchased my Ollie about a year ago, I've had an odd odor that seemed to come and go even though she's always spotless inside and I run a large home sized dehumidifier set below 50%. Well, today I found the source... wet plywood sandwiched between sheets of fiberglass installed in the basement floor. I was under the impression that no plywood was used in construction so I was a little surprised to find this. I'm now wondering if this something from the factory, or if one of the prior owners modified the basement floor? In the end, no big deal since it's not structural, and I wanted to install new vinyl sheet flooring in the basement anyway. Will probably just lay in a 1/2 sheet of PVC now prior to the vinyl.

Mine shows 65psi, but then again, it looks like my labels were made on a late Friday afternoon. Missing tire sizes and incorrect GVWR and GAWR ratings. Edit- And even "V.I.N" is spelled incorrectly. 😄

FYI, your VIN is still showing. Written vertically on the right side.

Same size wheel and tire that came on my 2010 Elite II and I've had no issues with them.

Then most likely you just need new bulbs which are probably G4 type. I'd swap the bulbs with one of the working lights to confirm.

They have a 5 bolt flange, two on each side and one at the top. No numbers stamped into the axle tubes anywhere though.. Might just have to contact Oliver and/or pull a wheel to get numbers directly off the bearings. Edit- I have much of the original paperwork and just found a list of additional upgrades and it states "upgraded axles" on the list but no part number.

Thanks. I'm starting to think that they might not even be Dexter axles since they don't have the Dexter name or model number stamped on them. Just saw on their website that they've been doing that on all axles since 2001.

Looking to buy bearing kits for my Elite II but the factory stickers are far too faded to make anything out. They do have numbering painted on them but they don't come up as a part number on the Dexter site. Can anyone identify what axles I have, or maybe I am just better off pulling one of the hubs off at get the numbers off the bearings?

While there are situations like a cold damp basement where only a dehumidifier will work to remove excessive moisture, that's not what's happening in the video from the original post. Their issue is undoubtedly due to short cycling of an oversized unit. They have a 13.5k unit in a 10 1/2 long insulated truck camper which will never run long enough under the conditions they're in to keep humidity in check. Eventually, VRF (variable refrigerant flow) systems like those used in residential mini splits will be available for RV's and will virtually eliminate these humidity issues. There are currently wall mounted units available that are rated for 13k that have the ability to throttle down to 2.5k automatically based on temp/humidity settings.

That Houghton designs their units to run the fan continuously after the compressor shuts down is a head scratcher for sure and definitely can contribute to your humidity problem, but based on your description of how quickly it cools down your cabin, even on low fan, I would bet that your unit is also oversized for the conditions you use it in. Oversized units usually don't pose much of a problem until high humidity enters the picture, at which point they do such a good job at removing sensible heat (thermostat setting) that they don't run for a long enough time to reduce the humidity to comfortable levels. At that point you have two options, run it cooler inside than you desire so it runs longer and hopefully reduces the humidity level to your liking, or use a dehumidifier and let it duke it out with your AC unit. I say duke it out since it's also heating the air in the cabin as it reduces humidity. Another side effect of running an oversized unit is that even if you do knock the humidity in the air down quickly after starting up you may still have a higher amount of moisture remaining in your cushions, blankets, clothes, etc that will release into the lower humidity cabin air after your unit shuts down. Combine this with the blower continuing to run over the wet evaporator coil and the humidity from breathing and the cabin humidity can climb fast without much or any change in actual temperature.

Their humidity problem is undoubtedly being caused by either the unit being oversized (my guess) or they aren't running it in dehumidifying mode or low speed fan setting (if that unit has such features) while operating in humid conditions.

This actually talks about sweating in a low humidity environment, not high.

I think a big part of the humidity issues some are having is that most units are oversized for the volume of airspace being conditioned, especially when that airspace is well insulated like our Ollie's are. In high humidity conditions temps are knocked down quickly (but the humidity is not) which results in short cycling of the unit. The humidity issue is made worse by setting the fan to the "on" position since once the compressor shuts down any moisture still on the evaporator coil will be sent directly back into the living space as vapor and will not have the time to drain to the outside as intended. We have an older Coleman 9.2k unit and have no such issues with humidity even though we do all of our camping here in Florida where it's almost always hot and humid. We usually set the thermostat to around 70 and the fan to "auto-low" which pretty much keeps the unit running non-stop and humidity at 50% or below. Not sure if these Houghton's have an "auto-low" setting, but I highly recommend using that setting in high humidity conditions. Might also be a good idea to contact the manufacturer to see if the fan's CFM (cubic feet per minute) is adjustable as it is in residential AC units. A lower fan speed would help remove more humidity by increasing the run time of the compressor.

I always wax decals, but never compound or polish over them.

It also includes any dealer installed options. They're supposed to update the plate on your vehicle to reflect the added weight but this doesn't always happen.

https://www.kbb.com/car-advice/payload-guide/

The driver is not included in payload capacity either.

That's a new one on me.. I was always told that payload is the difference between GVW Gross Vehicle Weight and Curb Weight. Curb weight including fuel, fluids, and all options on the truck but no passengers or added loads.

The idea is that if moisture builds, it will form between the hull and the air gap on the bottom of the underlayment. The underlayment is a vapor barrier so that no moisture can penetrate through to the bottom of the cushions. I have a dehumidifier that is always on set at 50% or below so that should quickly remove any condensation that forms. If not, I'll add another section along the walls behind the upper cushions to increase airflow and give any moisture another route to escape. This underlayment is also a thermal barrier so moisture shouldn't ever build in the top pockets. "Shouldn't", we shall see..

Well, got around to installing the DMX-1 Step underlayment and very happy with the results. Lays flat right from the roll and was easy to cut and fit. About $30 worth of materials and (I think) it will perform better than Hypervent. Time will tell..